Thread Number: 48529
Maytag A608
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Post# 703201   9/14/2013 at 00:18 (3,849 days old) by kelder ()        

My wife and I still have the Maytag A608 we bought in 1977. Never had problem I could not repair myself. Now having what I believe to be a transmission problems. I live in Dublin,CA and looking for a repairman who specializes in vintage Maytags and wanting to restore the washer and dryer. Called a local "expert" who laughed at my wife for having such an old machine. Kinda pissed me off...so any help on names of maytag repairmen who appreciate these great machines would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Keith





Post# 703203 , Reply# 1   9/14/2013 at 01:35 (3,849 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Hi Keith

stan's profile picture
There are lots of Maytag experts here. And in your area. Unfortunately I'm not one of them, however I'm sure that if you describe the symptoms, and provide photos, someone here will be able to guide you through the repair, or assist you with changing the tranny
( locate parts ect)
Many here have done this, and posted pics during the repair/restoration process, and I've seen some amazing accomplishments done with vintage machines here. So you came to the right place.
The repair manuals are are here as well.

The Maytag guys will be along soon, so hang in there.


Post# 703205 , Reply# 2   9/14/2013 at 01:59 (3,849 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        

d-jones's profile picture
Hi Keith. To get past the snarky atitude you'll want to find an outfit that's been around for a while. I'm down in the Los angeles area and could steer you towards several such places if you were down here. The guys I'm thinking of love to work on the older machines. According to the map, it looks like you aren't that far from Oakland, and being a larger metropolitan area, with any luck you should be able to find someone. There are several active members of this board up in the bay area, so hopefully one of them will see this and chime in with some advice on contacts. But if you're interested, there are also some excellent write ups in the archives of this forum that cover the tear down of machines like yours in great detail. Here's one such write up that covers the removal of the agitator and inner and outer tubs for bearing and seal replacement. That gets you all the way down to the transmission. And even if you're not planning to do the work youself, it's always nice to know how your machine's put together. Anyways, good luck to you.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO d-jones's LINK


Post# 703309 , Reply# 3   9/14/2013 at 19:06 (3,848 days old) by DigAPony ()        
so any help on names of maytag repairmen

Member "Redcarpetdrew" is the guy you want to contact. He is in Reno, Nevada.

Looks like a reasonable drive, at least on the map.

redcarpetdrew@yahoo.com




CLICK HERE TO GO TO DigAPony's LINK


Post# 703799 , Reply# 4   9/18/2013 at 00:39 (3,845 days old) by kelder ()        
Thanks

Thanks to all for your feedback and suggestions. Verified the transmission is bad...so going to do a complete rebuild of the A608. I've done 2 complete restorations on muscle cars and figure if I take my time, read the manuals and have this site as my resource. Will keep you posted. Actually looking forward to the project and Linda too.

Thanks again,
Keith


Post# 703801 , Reply# 5   9/18/2013 at 01:09 (3,845 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Good for you Keith!

stan's profile picture
You can do it!
If you can, take pics of the process. We love pics !


Post# 703883 , Reply# 6   9/18/2013 at 14:06 (3,844 days old) by DigAPony ()        
Verified the transmission is bad

What is the issue with the transmission?

Typically with a Maytag Helical the problem is not the trans per se but failed seals that allow water to seep in and/or oil to leak out.



Post# 703888 , Reply# 7   9/18/2013 at 14:33 (3,844 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        
(qsd) Dan

rp2813's profile picture

Is the man! 

 

Dan, you and Keith are practically neighbors.  If you're reading this and are inclined to help, I'm sure he could use your expert advice on how to keep such a worthy machine running for another 40 years.


Post# 703958 , Reply# 8   9/18/2013 at 22:11 (3,844 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        
That How To thread just keeps giving and giving. awesome!

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
I'm also interested in what actually failed on that transmission. Still, it's fun to fix them and I'll gladly offer any advice I can. Just ask! I might even have parts you might need and I AM relatively close. Gets kinda lonely being the only AW member in Northern Nevada.

Dan would also be a good choice for advice but for reasons that he doesn't care to share has gone dark. Hurts too since I thought we got along well and kinda feels like I'm missing a finger not being able to talk. Rumor mill has it that he lurks but otherwise is content to not have any contact... Pity...

RCD


Post# 703970 , Reply# 9   9/18/2013 at 23:49 (3,844 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

I just love it when members come to the air of non members. They end up being very happy in the end! And it gives this site a great reputation.

Post# 703984 , Reply# 10   9/19/2013 at 01:40 (3,844 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Hey Allen --

 

Just to clarify, Keith is a member.  He couldn't post here otherwise.

 

If he likes it here, he might hang around so he can figure out what to do should Linda's mixer someday produce the magic smoke.


Post# 704051 , Reply# 11   9/19/2013 at 11:22 (3,843 days old) by paganinia ()        
retired a207

We just last week retired a Maytag A207 with at least a bad timer...I just came on here to see how best to get rid of it and this thread was near the top. Since it's a Maytag of the same era, let me know if there are any parts shared with yours you want, I'm up in Walnut Creek.

Post# 704086 , Reply# 12   9/19/2013 at 14:47 (3,843 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Keith,  it might not be a bad idea to buzz on up and snag the A207 -- providing the experts here advise that the transmissions are interchangeable.  You could slap the 207's tranny in there to  keep your washer functioning while you take your time with the rebuild (locating necessary parts, etc.), and there are likely other usable components on the 207 that would be worth harvesting.


Post# 704088 , Reply# 13   9/19/2013 at 14:55 (3,843 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture

The standard capacity 207 transmission is not a direct interchange to the large capacity 608.  If the top plate of the 608 is having issues, the 207's top plate will interchange (as well as the gear sets), but the lower housing and center shaft are longer on the 608.

 

Keith - do you have an idea of what the symptoms are with your transmission?  Is it leaking oil out into the wash?  Leaking oil below the machine? Slow to agitate?  No agitation at all?

 

Ben


Post# 704342 , Reply# 14   9/20/2013 at 22:46 (3,842 days old) by kelder ()        
A608

Thanks for the ideas and suggestions. Will check and describe symptoms with more details. First task is to get the washer out to the garage for more room to work on it. Question. I noticed this model does not have a set screw keeping the agitator on the shaft...how do I remove the agitator. Saw something on the Internet where a guy used a bike inner tube under the agitator and inflated it to push the agitator off of the shaft. Seems pretty involved. ANY ideas welcome...tough to get started on the project without removing the agitator.

Post# 704414 , Reply# 15   9/21/2013 at 11:22 (3,841 days old) by paganinia ()        

I'll move my question to new thread, sorry for the hijack!

Good luck on your project!


Post# 704420 , Reply# 16   9/21/2013 at 12:47 (3,841 days old) by DigAPony ()        
How do I remove the agitator

The agitator pulls right up, no set screw on that model just a stop ring. Sometimes they come off easy, other times it can be a major battle.

Once that is off you'll also need the spanner wrench to remove the stem seal nut (reverse threaded).
See Link:




CLICK HERE TO GO TO DigAPony's LINK on eBay


Post# 704428 , Reply# 17   9/21/2013 at 13:17 (3,841 days old) by kelder ()        

Thanks to DigaPony. good advice before jumping into this. Hoping for easy removal, but will eat some Wheaties before I attempt! Stay tuned and will let you know what happens.

Post# 704554 , Reply# 18   9/22/2013 at 00:07 (3,841 days old) by kelder ()        

Tried the bike inner tube method twice...tube popped each time and agitator is still in the machine. Have looked for a agi tamer but can't find one. Any other ideas? Or who sells the agi tamer.

Post# 704556 , Reply# 19   9/22/2013 at 02:38 (3,841 days old) by Spankomatic (Ukiah,CA)        

spankomatic's profile picture
Zajic appliance in Sacramento might do it. Worth a chat...

CLICK HERE TO GO TO Spankomatic's LINK


Post# 704562 , Reply# 20   9/22/2013 at 03:09 (3,841 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
What about a

stan's profile picture
2 by 6 laid across the top, a couple of heavy straps under the agitator, up and over, and a floor jack to lift?

Post# 705201 , Reply# 21   9/24/2013 at 22:12 (3,838 days old) by kelder ()        
Thanks for the info Spankomatic re: Agi Tamer

I called Zajic appliance in Sacto. as you recommended and spoke with a guy named Omar. Wealth of knowledge and really easy to talk with (lots of rookie questions), but he was very helpful...anyway they didn't have one, but he had the part number and said to google that along with the name Agi Tamer, and got a hit from an appliance supply company in Ohio. An it's on its way! spent a lot of time looking and finally found it. Should have it in a week and will give it a try. Will update, hopefully with picture of the agitator OUTSIDE of the machine!

Post# 705394 , Reply# 22   9/25/2013 at 21:41 (3,837 days old) by Spankomatic (Ukiah,CA)        

spankomatic's profile picture
Great! Glad they were of some help....

Post# 708096 , Reply# 23   10/9/2013 at 02:34 (3,824 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Keith

stan's profile picture
What's happening with this? Did you get the agitator out?
We are still here pulling for you!


Post# 708099 , Reply# 24   10/9/2013 at 02:50 (3,824 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        
"We are still here pulling for you!"

rp2813's profile picture

Laughing

 


Post# 710293 , Reply# 25   10/19/2013 at 19:31 (3,813 days old) by kelder ()        
update on my A608...trans not working

thanks for the reminder to keep you guys updated.
- was having problems getting the agitator off, used different methods with no success, spent time looking for an agitamer, thought I had a agitamer ordered, but didn't pan out
- had to cut the agitator into pieces to get it out
- got a spanner nut wrench to remove the spanner nut , but it wouldn't move the nut...so had to cut it out. one of the threads said to cut it out so it gave me the confidence to move forward and get it apart.
- had to also cut out the other pieces (37 years of use and the parts were like they were weleded together!
- removed the basket and tub, brake assembly, basket support arms, damper pads came off so need to replace them.
- little bit of rust here and there, but inside of cabinet is in good shape- plan to clean, replace, repair the entire machine.
- removed the transmission today, took it apart and no broken gears, but the oil was very thick, the consistency of honey. Could the thick oil be the cause of the transmission not working? or is there something else going on with it. the shaft spins pretty well - no grinding or noises. doesn't makes sense. Machine would spin but not agitate. so any ideas why the machine tranny is not agitating? or can the oil get too thick and it won't work.

Will keep you guys updated as things progress.

Thanks and stay tuned.






Post# 710326 , Reply# 26   10/19/2013 at 21:36 (3,813 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)        
Transmission

When the oil gets really old it gets so thick the machine has trouble getting going.We used to add a helper spring to the motor base to get it moving.Maybe the transmission is fine but the problem is the motor base is stuck or doesnt have enough tension,worn out wheels,weak springs etc.To remove a maytag agitator,run the machine with a half full tub of the hottest water possible and let it agitate 5 minutes.Then spin the water out and immediatly give the agitator a strong pull.This almost always works for me.The agitator then comes right off like sh** through a goose.

Post# 710548 , Reply# 27   10/21/2013 at 07:25 (3,812 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
A806 Rebuild

combo52's profile picture

Hi Keith, great job so far, does the agitator shaft in the transmission top turn easily ?, this is usually the part of the transmission that binds up. The old thick oil does not help either, the oil that MT used originally was terrible oil, you can do much better going to an auto parts store and getting some good 70 weight gear oil, make sure that it is compatible with bronze bearings.


Post# 710851 , Reply# 28   10/22/2013 at 14:02 (3,810 days old) by kelder ()        

Thanks Combo52. the agitator shaft did not come out easily. The middle of the shaft was very rough and the metal was corroded. a new shaft will help. springs and rollers for the motor looked ok, some corrosion and springs weren't broken or stretched. Please see my e-mail to your personal address and thanks again. I'm ordering parts tonight and get this machine running again!

Here's a pic of what had to be cut with a grinder and other tools to get this thing apart. I rebuild cars for a hobby and an enjoying the process restoring this machine back to new.


Post# 710910 , Reply# 29   10/22/2013 at 19:27 (3,810 days old) by DigAPony ()        
I'm ordering parts tonight

The agitator shaft kit (part # 22002124) includes a new stem seal/boot and is a better deal than buying the parts individually.




CLICK HERE TO GO TO DigAPony's LINK


Post# 712182 , Reply# 30   10/29/2013 at 22:46 (3,803 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Anything

stan's profile picture
New with this?
How's it going ?


Post# 712241 , Reply# 31   10/30/2013 at 11:42 (3,802 days old) by kelder ()        

Hi Stan, have ordered all of the parts and they are due in tomorrow. Will have a new machine when completed! (Wife is happy, doesn't like the new ones - too much plastic and too many options to choose) I believe the tranny trouble was a combo of motor sliders, agitator shaft corrosion, and tranny oil that was the consistency of honey. replacing all components other than the motor that's working fine. do you have any recommendations regarding the tranny oil? some say use automotive, other saying maytag oil is not good. lots of choices, AND how much oil goes into the tranny? fill up the bottom half or to some other level in the bottom housing

Post# 712259 , Reply# 32   10/30/2013 at 14:00 (3,802 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Hi Keith

stan's profile picture
You know the old saying "happy wife, happy life"
I'm no expert, my experience has been with a Maytag Wringer! The power unit, ( tranny) on those used a gear oil. Most here that have repaired those used a 80/90 gear oil. I would think that should be fine? Someone that knows more will be along soon. As far as the amount.. think your own instinct will take over and you'll just know when refilling. ( probably better a little under, than over )
Let's see what others have to say


Post# 714582 , Reply# 33   11/11/2013 at 12:48 (3,790 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Well

stan's profile picture
No one came along?
How's it coming along Keith?
Pics?


Post# 714614 , Reply# 34   11/11/2013 at 14:40 (3,790 days old) by DigAPony ()        
recommendations regarding the tranny oil?

After lots of research I ended using Sta-Lube GL-4 gear oil. It claims to be safe for bronze bearings and has anti-wear additives EP not found in Gl-1 lube.

Maytag trans oil would work okay as well, plenty of machines ran decades with it. Problems arise from water intrusion and/or oil leaks due to failed seals, not the gear lube per-se.

Available at Napa auto parts stores. Fill top of the lower half of the transmission case.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO DigAPony's LINK


Post# 714669 , Reply# 35   11/11/2013 at 17:49 (3,790 days old) by rustyspaatz ()        

This sounds like it needs doner machine.

I'm seeing them on CL, sometimes free.

The top and sides of your current machine easily unscrew and can be put onto the body of a working machine. It might be easier, though less fun, I know.

Best of luck. :)


Post# 714696 , Reply# 36   11/11/2013 at 19:03 (3,790 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Keith's

stan's profile picture
Come to far for that now!
We know he has it apart and has all the new parts. It will be a new machine when finished.
Keith hasn't come by yet to let us know if or when!


Post# 714732 , Reply# 37   11/11/2013 at 22:14 (3,790 days old) by kelder ()        
almost ready...Maytag A608

Still have a couple of parts on back order and should have them this week. had some minor rust on the bottom of the side panels...wired wheel, rust encapsulator, and some gloss white and looks pretty good. cleaning parts,and painting where needed. have a lot of pics to show once it's completed. a quick question? when I've tried to place more than one pic, all i see is the last one entered...any suggestions on sending multiple pic on same message. thanks to you guys for checking in. taking longer than planned, but pretty much replacing all parts. will provide parts list too when finished. this is a lot like restoring cars, but learning a lot about a mainstay of american engineering and design.
Thank,
Keith


Post# 714740 , Reply# 38   11/11/2013 at 22:59 (3,790 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Hi Keith

stan's profile picture
That's a good question. I've always had to do them one at a time, so I wait here with you til someone more tech savvy come along.

Post# 714813 , Reply# 39   11/12/2013 at 07:29 (3,789 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

beekeyknee's profile picture
Go up to the top of the page and click "Your Photo Album" and you can upload multiple photos and place them in a single reply. I think this is correct. Haven't done it yet myself but I saw someone do it awhile back and started nosing around to try and figure it out.

Post# 716353 , Reply# 40   11/19/2013 at 20:39 (3,782 days old) by kelder ()        
how do I fix small pin holes in bottom of the tub?

Still on hold with the project. Needed an agitator shaft kit, on back order until mid December - Yikes. Discovered 2 small pin holes in the bottom of the tub...any suggestions on how to repair them. Will be covered by the tub seal, but want to be sure they get fixed.

Post# 716362 , Reply# 41   11/19/2013 at 21:44 (3,782 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Pin Holes Near The Tub Seal

combo52's profile picture
If the rubber tub seal covers the holes they will never be a problem, just use a good bead of RTV Silicone sealant on the tub when you twist the tub seal in place. Installing tub seal this way will allow the outer tub to outlast the rest of the washer.

Post# 716371 , Reply# 42   11/19/2013 at 22:22 (3,782 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Agitator Shaft Kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAYTAG-AGITATOR-...

Rust holes in the tub are a more difficult fix but can be filled in with J-B Weld.

Silicone RTV could work as well, but I can't see how that prevents the outer tub from future rust. Judging from the condition of the washer your home seems to have rather hard water .


Post# 716374 , Reply# 43   11/19/2013 at 22:47 (3,782 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Since you work on cars

stan's profile picture
Will bondo work? Just thought you might have sone around. Prime and paint after.

Post# 716443 , Reply# 44   11/20/2013 at 07:36 (3,781 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Pin Holes Near The Tub Seal

combo52's profile picture
Silicone Sealant will prevent future rust holes in this rust prone area because the bead of sealant will not let water get into this area in the future. Good SS has a life expediency of over 30 years for such uses, if you JB Weld the holes the area still needs to be well sealed otherwise it will rust right next to the repaired holes.

Post# 718799 , Reply# 45   12/2/2013 at 11:53 (3,769 days old) by kelder ()        
all the parts are here!

All of the parts are finally here and now ready to put the machine back together. will take pics as it's assembled. thanks again to all who've sent info, help, and support :)

Post# 718836 , Reply# 46   12/2/2013 at 15:16 (3,769 days old) by k1rod (Scottsdale, AZ)        
2nd for JB Weld

If you haven't already repaired the rust holes in the tub, I would also recommend the JB Weld. I knocked a small chip sized hole in the oil pan of my car about 7 years ago. I filled the hole with JB Weld. I have been running it ever since without a leak. Good luck. I'm enjoying seeing your progress.

Post# 721417 , Reply# 47   12/16/2013 at 08:57 (3,755 days old) by kelder ()        
Hit a bump in the road on re-assembly of A608 ...

Hi, putting the A608 back together and ran into a problem. I replaced the Tub bearing and when I went to bolt the tub to the 3 arms, the front hole did not line up. I also tried with the old rubber bearing, same result. The picture below better describes this. The back 2 bolts line up fine...but the front holes aren't even close to being lined up to put the bolt through. Got the same results (picture)for both the new and old tub bearing. I turned the tub upside down and placed the transmission into the bearing and it fits snug up against the rubber of the tub bearing. (just to be sure it fit properly)

How do you get the front hole to line up. I'm a bit concerned to pull the tub down to get the holes to align. Any help / comments would be very much appreciated!

thanks,
Keith


Post# 721426 , Reply# 48   12/16/2013 at 10:00 (3,755 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Non Alined Tub Hole

combo52's profile picture
Pull the tub down and put the bolt in.

Post# 721498 , Reply# 49   12/16/2013 at 18:01 (3,755 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Don't forget, the short bolt goes in the front position

Post# 721507 , Reply# 50   12/16/2013 at 18:37 (3,755 days old) by kelder ()        
non aligned tub hole

thanks to DigAPony for the quick response and reminder to put short bolt in the front. Back to the resto ! thanks - Keith

Post# 723976 , Reply# 51   12/30/2013 at 21:09 (3,741 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Hey!

stan's profile picture
What happened with this?
Keith, have you got it working?


Post# 724105 , Reply# 52   12/31/2013 at 15:31 (3,740 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
i'm wondering too.....

hippiedoll's profile picture
i've been reading this thread every time it comes to the top of the list and i'm wondering too, if kelder got this maytag A608 put back together with the new parts & if it's up & running!!??!!??

don't keep us in suspense, let us know if you got the maytag working....
hm hm hm.....


Post# 724743 , Reply# 53   1/3/2014 at 13:29 (3,737 days old) by kelder ()        
Update on the A608

sorry for the delay in updating on progress. Had some delay do to work schedule and holiday activities. Replacing timer before its maiden voyage and should have it (timer) this weekend.

Post# 729477 , Reply# 54   1/21/2014 at 20:49 (3,719 days old) by kelder ()        
Hit a big road block! The saga continues on my A608

Well...I've it the wall on my A 608. Originally, repairman said I had a bad tranny, so that started my adventure to restore the A608. I replaced almost every component other than the motor because it worked...otherwise a new machine. lots of time and money. Tranny was not broken, replaced the agitator shaft, oil etc.

got it put back together, the machine filled,but would not agitate, so thought the timer may be the issue after all. Ordered the timer and discovered the painted numbers on it were just about impossible to read, even with a magnifying glass. So my wife and I did the best we could to re-connect the wires from the old to the new.

Plugged the machine in and nothing, no fill, no agitate,no spin. Luckily, no smoke, burned wires or fire.

So I'm at a standstill and frustrated to get this far, and still no working machine. Patience and time are running out (been working on this since September) and the boat could use a new anchor!

Any and all ideas,suggestions would be welcomed. Everyone has been so helpful along the way. thanks in advance - Keith




Post# 729519 , Reply# 55   1/22/2014 at 00:47 (3,719 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Hang in there Keith

stan's profile picture
The Maytag guys will be along.
Don't give up yet! It's probably something simple that been overlooked.


Post# 729528 , Reply# 56   1/22/2014 at 01:59 (3,719 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

I'm with Stan.  It's got to be something simple.


Post# 729994 , Reply# 57   1/23/2014 at 22:11 (3,717 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
A608 wiring

Perhaps someone can provide some photos of the wiring on a working A608 or similar model to ensure that your wiring is all connected properly.


Post# 733596 , Reply# 58   2/7/2014 at 20:49 (3,702 days old) by maytag712 (Caldwell Kansas)        

maytag712's profile picture
Awaiting to hear how this turns out.

Post# 734038 , Reply# 59   2/9/2014 at 16:30 (3,700 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Me too!

stan's profile picture
What's going on Keith?

Post# 734052 , Reply# 60   2/9/2014 at 17:15 (3,700 days old) by cornutt (Huntsville, AL USA)        
Lid switch?

Doesn't the lid switch totally kill the power to the machine on older Maytags?

Post# 736862 , Reply# 61   2/21/2014 at 19:44 (3,688 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Think

stan's profile picture
We lost Keith! Hope he got it working!

Post# 739265 , Reply# 62   3/4/2014 at 16:53 (3,677 days old) by kelder ()        
Throwing in the towel...

I wasn't able to figure out the issues with the A608 and have purchased a new washer and dryer. Too long of a time to use our kids machine. So...anyone in the SF bay area interested in a Maytag A608 and matching dryer. The washer has over $500 worth of new parts and willing to part out or sell entire machine. We bought the dryer at the same time as the washer...it works perfectly. let me know if interested.

Although I wasn't able to get it running, I truly appreciate all of you who provided me with information and support. Though my objective was not achieved, I did enjoy the process!

Keith


Post# 739329 , Reply# 63   3/4/2014 at 20:41 (3,677 days old) by rapidry1000 (San Francisco)        

Keith

Just saw your post. I recalled someone in Marin County who posted that she had great luck and very satisfied finding a repair person for a Maytag dryer whose repair business is in Marin County. She mentioned that he purchased parts in San Francisco and might repair if I ever needed for my Maytag A512 washer and/or my Maytag DG608 dryer in San Francisco. Maybe you might be able to locate that thread.

Jim (rapidry1000)


Post# 739332 , Reply# 64   3/4/2014 at 21:04 (3,677 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        
I remember that thread.

d-jones's profile picture

It left me completely confused. Somehow, a Maytag DE806 that's making a screeching sound is repaired with new front glides, one new roller, and a belt. OK, I understand the belt replacement, but I'd love to know how the glides and roller were installed in a machine that doesn't use them.

 

 

Here's the thread



CLICK HERE TO GO TO d-jones's LINK



This post was last edited 03/05/2014 at 01:18

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