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Thread Number: 48587
Hotpoint better than KitchenAid? |
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Post# 704073 9/19/2013 at 14:21 (3,869 days old) by akronman  (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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 I figgered the haadline would get some attention. I had a Hotpoint TOL 1982 dishwasher for years, worked darn well and was always on Sani-Wash, long cycle, since tons of stuff sits here for 2-3 days before washing. It did a very good loud job, I think 8 total water changes on that long cycle, and always left "kibbles and bits" on top of glasses and mugs in the top shelf. But it was here when I bought the house and worked well until rusty tines and being so darn loud and a small leak made me go to Craigslist to find a KitchenAid.
About six months ago I got a KitchenAid Architect series 1992 KUDS23. With far less water, it gets everything clean and doesn't leave food particles, it's quieter and solid built, no complaints....BUT......my coffee mugs now all have rings around them, inside. I drink tons of coffee and have a home brew espresso machine. But it's the same coffee for ages, same mugs, same Cascade, etc. The only difference is the machine, and all these rings/spots, you can see where the last drops of coffee on the bottom of the mug dried up. I've checked that the top arm spins wonderfully, all other glasses are spotless. I've loaded coffee mugs in the bottom, etc. Always the rings and spots, the coffee "oils" don't go away. Simple hand washing does the trick, but wasn't ever needed with that Hotpoint.
At times, half the machine is coffee mugs/espresso cups, that's how bad I am. Any advice? | ||
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Post# 704094 , Reply# 1 9/19/2013 at 15:17 (3,869 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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Mark, are the detergent cups opening at the right time? Dumb question, but KA's sometimes have issues with this.
I've noticed that since dishwasher detergents went 100% phosphate-free here that tea will stain our mugs and cups. I add about a half a tablespoon of regular bleach to the Cascade and that seems to do the trick. Of course, the 56 GE pull-out has a pretty short wash cycle, so it needs a bit of a boost sometimes... LOL | ||
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Post# 704105 , Reply# 2 9/19/2013 at 15:43 (3,869 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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Paul Yes Paul, detergent cups open properly. I have opened and listened all through this machine to learn about it, downloaded a cycle chart/Users manual, everything seems perfect. And damn good. Dishes and cookware and griddles are spotless, but the coffee cups are less than perfect. Not that that stops me from brewing more....
I'd never have thought about bleach, hmmm. 1/2 tablespoon of good old liquid Clorox? Carefully poured into the prewash cup, it woldn't worry me at all about the dishes. | ||
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Post# 704108 , Reply# 3 9/19/2013 at 15:51 (3,869 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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Post# 704112 , Reply# 4 9/19/2013 at 16:09 (3,869 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN) |
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 I will say that I find it somewhat odd that you're having this problem. What cycle are you using? I don't have a cycle diagram for that machine but I would suspect that it is similar to the WP Powerclean and KM Ultrawash machines of its era since by then they were all basically the same design. The fact that it's leaving the oils and stains would lead me to believe that it's not heating the water hot enough. The enzymes in Cascade combined with true 140 degree (or hotter) water SHOULD remove those stains.
Actually mixing chlorine bleach with the new formulation Cascade Powder is not a great idea since the bleach will kill the enzymes in it. It may help remove the stains from the cups but i wouldn't be shocked if other things didn't get as clean.
Whatever you decide to do, you should follow the same principle that you would in doing laundry and introduce a chlorine based product into the mix later in the washing process since it kills off any enzyme based product that you may have started with.
One thing that I have done for years which has produced excellent results in my KM UltraWash is to use an enzyme based detergent in the prewash and a liquid chlorine based detergent in the main wash when I run the "Pots & Pans" cycle. I usually don't even bother to flush the line so that the initial fill with the enzyme based detergent is quite cool. As it churns away and heats the water to 135 degrees the enzymes really get to go to work. That prewash often lasts 25-35 minutes! Then the main wash releases the chlorine when everything is already hot and steamy and then it gets about 20-25 minutes to work its magic as it heats to 140 degrees. That cycle used in that way removes things that no dishwasher should ever have a right to get clean! | ||
| Post# 704179 , Reply# 6 9/20/2013 at 00:25 (3,868 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea)) | ||
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Post# 704215 , Reply# 8 9/20/2013 at 07:59 (3,868 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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Thank you Thank you for the responses and the details! I will check the temp during the main wash for sure.And I guess I won't try LCB.
I stated above that the ONLY thing that changed was the machine, nothing else. FALSE. Within a week before or after getting this dishwasher, I also replaced my leaky hot water tank in the basement. With all the KA literature talking about how the machine does its own heating, I took their advice and set the water tank lower than I ever used to, maybe 120 instead of 140+. I never had much info on that Hotpoint, it and the tank were here running fine when I moved in. I will click it up ten degrees and start observing. I will also test the temp during wash and report back. There is also a Sani-Rinse button I'll start using. With all the above info from you guys, I'm surprised and wondering what else is dirty, while I only notice coffee. Eww.
I do think I rememebr that some Hotpoint literature stated it heated to 160, and I almost always left it on the Sani-boost cycle or whatever they called it, yes it ran for 25 minutes or so during the main wash and had tons of pre- and post rinses. It also cleaned everything I ever put in it. Missing it a bit....
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