Thread Number: 48655
Kenmore Washer Restore
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Post# 704904   9/23/2013 at 14:49 (3,839 days old) by kenmore70 (New York)        

This is my first washer restore (from @1970), so I have a few questions. First, I had some issues taking off the agitator, but some of you guys helped out on the forum and I got it off. Everything else came apart ok for the most part. All the rubber seals will be changed. I have a few questions. The tub has a small hole as you can see at the bottom right side of the picture. I'm going to patch it with some fiberglass screening and then use some JB Weld or Marine Epoxy and then coat it with POR15. Do you think that's the way to go for a small hole like this? Second question, I was wondering what the agitator seal part number is, I pasted a copy of the manual below, is it ITEM #22 (91939)? Looks like there are two of them. Does the basket drive need to come off to change it? Also, I took a picture of the upper bearing, it may be hard to tell but wanted to know if you think it looks ok. The spin tube seems to be ok. THANKS, Tom.




Post# 704905 , Reply# 1   9/23/2013 at 14:50 (3,839 days old) by kenmore70 (New York)        

pic 2

Post# 704907 , Reply# 2   9/23/2013 at 14:51 (3,839 days old) by kenmore70 (New York)        

pic3

Post# 704908 , Reply# 3   9/23/2013 at 14:52 (3,839 days old) by kenmore70 (New York)        

pic4

Post# 705153 , Reply# 4   9/24/2013 at 17:32 (3,838 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

kenmoreguy64's profile picture
Tom -

That machine must have really leaked up quite a puddle in its last home. Between the small hole in the tub, and the detergent river that was coming from the centerpost gasket, she wasn't holding much water. I think I see some red sealant around the tub center lip, so that leak may have been addressed once already.

As to fixing the tub, I like two-part epoxy. It is easy to use, odor free, and when done right, it provides a very good seal. There are a couple other areas of that tub that are on borrowed time up at about the two o'clock position whch I would epoxy as well.

The tub mounting bolt hole at the bottom is not in good shape either. Try to use a 76673 tub repair kit here and it may cover most of that area. You'll want to seal the rest as best you can, but don't get sealant where the tub repair gasket will go or it may not seal perfectly flat. I put the two part epoxy in AFTER I have re-installed the tub. The tub outlet hole is deteriorated, but I dont think it makes the tub unusable, at least not from what I can see.

I don't know what to say about the spin tube - it looks okay except I can't tell if there is a bright gouge worn into it or if that's my computer monitor, etc. If it is gouged, you need to either lower the bearing and/or seal so this gouge doesn't ruin a new seal, or replace the spin tube. I would go for all-new if possible for a long term solution.

That centerpost is pretty rough. You and Turquoisedude Paul are doing nearly the same work right now. If you remove the rust and clean up the post as best you can, as long as what's left is solid with no pin-holes of rust, you should be able to POR-15 that post and get some more use out of the machine, especially if you're not going to use it 8 loads per week, etc. I know Patrick / PDub did the same job with the POR15 and has had great success thus far in a '66 Kenmore.

If this were my project, I think before I did too much with the tub, I'd ascertain what to do with the centerpost. This machine is providing you with a very good lesson book on what you can find in these older machines.

Gordon


Post# 707820 , Reply# 5   10/7/2013 at 19:43 (3,825 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)        
outer tub

Hey Tom,I have always patched tubs like that with permatex non flowing clear silicone with great success.Get a new center seal and cover both sides with the silicone then sand the drainhole thoroughly then apply the silicone to both sides of that and re install the tub then let dry for 48 hours.


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