Thread Number: 48779
Topload dishwasher ID needed
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Post# 706534   10/1/2013 at 08:58 (3,831 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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I am maybe/likely buying this, can anyone ID it for me? It looks like they painted right over the name at some point, but it's priced right





Post# 706535 , Reply# 1   10/1/2013 at 09:00 (3,831 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
2nd pic, last one

akronman's profile picture

also: is there an end to collecting/restoring/using? 12 step group?


Post# 706538 , Reply# 2   10/1/2013 at 09:22 (3,831 days old) by Maytagbear (N.E. Ohio)        
That is a

later (60s on) GE Mobile Maid.


"we are powerless over our appliances, and our lives are unmanageable without them."



Some may disagree, but I say "snap it up."




Lawrence/Maytagbear


Post# 706543 , Reply# 3   10/1/2013 at 09:55 (3,831 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture
Hmmm... Must be "Mobile Maid Month"! Go for it Mark, you know you want to.... LOL

Post# 706634 , Reply# 4   10/1/2013 at 18:31 (3,831 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

bajaespuma's profile picture

Looks like an SM-300A. 1965. Just like the one I just got (and love), but no Rinse Dispenser. Has a newer control dial on it, though. Here's a picture of the 1966 versions that had 2 lift-top racks instead of 1 :


Post# 706638 , Reply# 5   10/1/2013 at 18:50 (3,831 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
oh no

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only $20 and only 20 minutes away, so it's now mine. An old lady died and the landlord was clearing out her apartment, he knows nothing about the machine. Well, nearly a piece of trash, nearly. Take a look. You are seeing warped/faded/rotten formica and a yellowish brush-painted cabinet. Likely to match her kitchen


Post# 706640 , Reply# 6   10/1/2013 at 18:54 (3,831 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
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I only spent $20

 

It's a Power Shower, all racks are there, a few missing tines, and it has the silverware basket.

The fixed upper rack-----does it move or do you kinda load the lower rack underneath, sort of sliding dishes from front to back? Or should it be up a notch on those shiny sidebars, so it swings up by hand when needed? The moving rack attached to the lid seems fine, it's the fixed rack that's confusingly stuck


Post# 706641 , Reply# 7   10/1/2013 at 18:55 (3,831 days old) by mikepaquette ()        
YAY for Mobile Maid month !!!!

TG we have a month ;) We have a month ???

Post# 706645 , Reply# 8   10/1/2013 at 18:56 (3,831 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
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I only spent $20

Most of the interior doesn't look bad

 


Post# 706647 , Reply# 9   10/1/2013 at 18:59 (3,831 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
hmmm

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I only spent $20

 

That rust spot matches one on the bottom, no water in her yet but I strongly suspect a hole through, oh yeah.  I won't yet ask for any advice, this machine is very rough and can wait to be a mid-winter project. I doubt it was used in ages.


Post# 706649 , Reply# 10   10/1/2013 at 19:07 (3,831 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
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I only spent $20. I have to keep reminding myself so I don't get upset.

 

Innards look ok, all parts there, and the dispenser flips as you turn the timer thru its paces. Is the lid supposed to spring up when I push the button? Hinges and springs are good, but you have to push the lid release button while pulling on the lid. I think fresh new formica installed instead of the bowed rotten edge of the current lid would reduce friction.

 

Thanks to BAJAESPUMA for the above advertisements. It looks closest to SM300, nearly TOL, but maybe a year different or so? My model's yellowed plastic MOBILE MAID top handle and the 3 cycle buttons and lid release buttons all run together, where the advert shows seperated buttons, hmmmm....


Post# 706650 , Reply# 11   10/1/2013 at 19:13 (3,831 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
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All this for only $20

 

The horrid paint job shows up in this photo. The buttons on the front lip do sort of tilt a tad, really grimy dirty there, gross. Hoses look ok( for not having a drop of water in them yet).  And it almost looks like the lid can easily be rejuvenated with brand new formica countertop fit into that silver frame.  But none of that until it gets running in a few months. I will need and want advice from you pros, but it's months too early, I'll forget everything you say right now. Take no offense. I remodeled my kitchen about 5 years ago with new "retro" boomerang formica, pale blue. Maybe a 2 foot square of boomerang in a contrasting color....then just appliance white on the cabinet, lordy it's sick


Post# 706651 , Reply# 12   10/1/2013 at 19:15 (3,831 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
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it only cost $20

 

no exterior rust, no dings, just bad bad brush paint job. And the lids shows warpage/damage/rot.


Post# 706654 , Reply# 13   10/1/2013 at 19:25 (3,831 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
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Only cost me $20

 

You can see the exterior tub rust spot that matches the interior one, yup it leaks for sure. I'm either brave or stupid, I sure as hell plugged it in out in the garage. No water hookup at all. I turned the timer thru 360 degrees, heard various solenoids and the detergent cup, etc, and minor motor hum with no motor turning. Maybe dead motor? Maybe no water and thus it shouldn't let the motor run? One spin of the dial was enough risk. Where is the water level switch?Finding a GE motor doesn't worry me, it's their bread and butter.

Tomorrow or so I'll get a close-up of the dial, but overall this is a winter project and not a rush at all.  The cycles are Normal washday, Pots/Pans, and China Crystal. No buttons for no-heat dry, no buttons for adding extrra temp/heater time, etc. Simple design and one cycle on the timer, I'll search the Ephemera soon to find out more.

 

I'm glad it's mine, I think I paid appropriately, and I'll get to it after the holidays.


Post# 706714 , Reply# 14   10/2/2013 at 06:42 (3,831 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Courage

bajaespuma's profile picture

If you'd like some unsolicited advice( and who doesn't?) the first thing I'd do if I were you is to connect the machine to a water source, fill it with hot tap water and let the water sit in the sump for about a half and hour to warm whatever seals are there and you will be able to determine quickly whether there are any holes in the tank or around the power unit. If you can't connect it to a faucet, heat up about 2 1/2 gallons of water in a big pot and throw it into the tank.

 

If that's successful, plug it in, carefully, and slowly turn the dial to on and allow the machine to go through its paces if the motor decides to work. Sometimes the humming is what those models did during the fill periods.

 

If that's successful, go get yourself some "Scrubbing Bubbles" and some Lime Away and clean the interior. If you can get your hands on some citric acid crystals, run a cycle with citric acid in the detergent cup. These products will remove a lot of grime and then calc and rust. Even the GE service manual suggests using aluminum tape to cover up some small rust spots.

 

With a little money and a little work, the messed-up laminate on the top can be replaced.

 

The Pots and Pans and China Crystal cycles are both effectively "No Heat Dry" cycles. I think the China cycle turns the calrod off through the whole cycle and the Pots cycle leaves the calrod on during the washes and rinses but only has 5 minutes of heat during the dry period.

 

There should be a rating plate on the very bottom of the back of your machine. The morons who owned it before you probably painted over it. It will have the model no. and serial no. If you ever take the paint off, I'd be very interested to see a picture of that label, or you could just write all the numbers down and post them. Ordinary paint removers sometimes work very easily with non-porous surfaces like appliance enamels and metal.

 

This is probably a 1966 machine, but it has some parts and features of a 1965 machine and now I'm curious.

 

By the way, the back top rack is supposed to be "locked" in place between those two bars, but I leave it simply resting on the bottom bar so I can remove it easily if I want it out of the machine to wash tall stuff.


Post# 706723 , Reply# 15   10/2/2013 at 07:16 (3,831 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        
Calrod in the China and Pots/Utensil cycles

turquoisedude's profile picture
Ken, you are right on the money. I guess the 'no heat' for the China cycle was an attempt to protect the gold trims on some fine china which softens when heated.
I wonder also if the no-heat dry for the Pots/Utensils was more to prevent the stuff that didn't wash off from drying on solidly rather than to prevent the items from potential heat damage...


Post# 706725 , Reply# 16   10/2/2013 at 07:40 (3,831 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Mid 60s GE Mobil-Maid DW

combo52's profile picture

Mark these are fun machines to play with and you can patch it up and try it out and if you really like it, then I would look for a better condition one, you know as soon as you restore it you will find a perfect unused one, LOL.

 

In addition to the usual problems that GE [ and everyone else had with Plasti-sol DW interiors ] these first wash arm GE DWs were fairly poor performers and the motors were prone to failure either by locking up or having a sticky relay that quickly causes the start winding to burn-up. By 1968 GE used the familiar shaded pole side-winder motor and pump with a new wash arm design that while not without problems cleaned light years better.

 

If your motor does not free itself, try forcing it a little with a screw-driver in the bottom of the motors cooling fan. If this does not work you will likely have to remove the complete pump and motor and start your work. It is also a good idea to at least lubricate the motor start relay and you can actually take it apart if you are really brave, doing this can keep you from ruining a motor.


Post# 706727 , Reply# 17   10/2/2013 at 07:54 (3,831 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Ephemera info

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I downloaded the 1968 owners manual, it describes the Pots&pans as the same WRWRR as regular cycling, but then the heated dry only runs the Calrod for about a quarter of the dryng time to prevent damage to pan handles. China cycle is one less wash, but actually you do that on the dial. And China also just runs the Calrod for drying for the lesser time too.  It doesn';t mention when or if the Calrod heats during the main wash or a rinse for any cycle, which I would hope it does for Pots Pans, but who knows? And way too early to tell on this machine.

 

My model doesn't have Rinse-Glo/JetDry dispenser or buttons or anything for it. And the faucet hookup is just that, no extra button on it to get hot water to run in the sink if needed. I believe those 2 items were TOL only, this is one notch down.

 

BAJA--thanks for the advice, unsolicited or not. Alumininum tape like used for heater flues coming off the furnace? Hi-temp? That may be a way to check out the machine before doing a full repair.

 

It's still in the garage and waiting, but a question or two anyhows-----Throw me a simple explanation of the pump/spray. Is the motor one direction only, only runs a pump, and one solenoid sends watrer either to the spray arms or out the drain hose? Mechanically/electrically it sounds like a darn simple setup. Motor and pump and solenoid are the main items?

 

Yes there is still a nameplate on the lower back, covered in paint. I'll check it out later.

 

And the LiftRack only has that arm on one side. Is that correct or am I missing one arm? I like your idea for the fixed rack, seems handier your way.

 

So far I can't figure out the water level switch. Is it just timed fill, no actual level switch?

 

Way too many questions when it ain't even indoors yet!

Thanks

Mark

 


Post# 706728 , Reply# 18   10/2/2013 at 07:59 (3,831 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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Mark, I am not 100% if it would be the case with this machine, but the later GE pump motors ran in one direction only and the solenoid would open (and close) a baffle that directed the flow of water to the spray arm or the drain port. The Frigidaire Spin-Tube dishwashers used this method, too.

Post# 706731 , Reply# 19   10/2/2013 at 08:16 (3,831 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
hmmm

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John and Paul and Ken----all your advice is pushing me to run to Home Depot for a unicoupler and get that Maid in my kitchen tonight to start on it!


Post# 706750 , Reply# 20   10/2/2013 at 11:03 (3,830 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Mid 60s GE Mobil-Maid DW

combo52's profile picture

Hi Mark, your GE DW has a reversible main motor, no drain valve or solenoid. All TL GE portable [ and even some GE built-in ] DWs do not have any type of float, water level or overflow protection of any type, if the pump fails to pump out water or if the timer stalls during fill it FLOODS, LOL. Fortunately TL portable DWs can hold a LOT of water before the floor gets washed, unlike a regular built-in machine where the water just starts flowing out from under the door if the machine misses one drain cycle and fills a 2nd time.


Post# 706763 , Reply# 21   10/2/2013 at 12:17 (3,830 days old) by Mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
HI MARK

mickeyd's profile picture
For 20 bucks, a total steal. Let me know if the Top Load bug bites you as bad as it bit me. I've also fallen in love with unicouplers; they're amazing.

So glad you found a new toy.

Flooding a top loader.......hmmmmmm. Don't give me any more temptations, John.


Post# 706765 , Reply# 22   10/2/2013 at 12:40 (3,830 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
toplaoders

akronman's profile picture

Thanks for advice--John and others. This will be a decent amount of work, true, but a damn simple design underneath it all, far fewer moving parts than any washer!

 

I haven't used a toploader in years, and have a KUDS23 installed in the kitchen, so this is really just for fun/hobby/conversation piece when it's done.  I remember a 50's Mobile Maid in Grandma's kitchen in the mid 60's, very rounded tub/cabinet, no lid insulation at all, and impeller wash. And a 1960 GE metal blade impeller design built-in in our own house as a kid, the entire tub rolled out on rails. My mother was an invalid so we used Melmac/plastics due to light weight for her to set the table, etc. (I am not a sexist pig. She was born in 1925, had 7 kids before MS diagnosis, and described herself as Wife and Mother. No women's libber her) I also remember lots of burned/melted dishes and cups, top rack only once we learned. The GE rail rollout was replaced in 74 with some routine brand typical front door model. I remember one cycle only, Dad wasn't rich.

 

Who am I kidding? I want this machine in the kitchen NOW


Post# 706768 , Reply# 23   10/2/2013 at 13:18 (3,830 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

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Mark, you're not going to find a Unicoupler at Home Depot but what you can find is a female hose-end adapter that can be mated to a male faucet adapter. Make sure they match because there are a couple of different types. Also, when you attach the adapter to your kitchen faucet make sure you use a good new rubber washer and tighten it very well. They like to leak and sometimes spray a small jet of hot water across the kitchen. Portable dishwashers really were only for people who didn't have the money to remodel their kitchens back in the day. Their use installations are NOT convenient.

 

Paul, you are right about the cycle; the Pots & Pans cycle turns the heat off for most of the dry cycle to prevent bits and pieces of leftover food from "cooking" onto the pots and pans. GE was realistic about what a dishwasher could and couldn't do early on. The early pieces of service literature describe a short cycle with no heat so the housewife could quickly dispose of all the cookware used to make dinner with the idea that she could easily and quickly remove whatever food was left on the pans without vigorous scouring after going through the dishwasher. And this is exactly how I use those cycles.

 

I use these top-loading dishwashers as auxiliary dishwashers and pan-washers. Depending on need I'll either throw excess dinnerware or cookware in the extra machine so I can clean everything up in one shot after a party. It's very nice for someone like me to "put everything in" and not have to wake up to a kitchen sink full of dirty stuff. Somehow the top-loaders fit more easily in a crowded kitchen because you don't need more floor space for a door that opens down and out. The Maytag WP-600, however, my favorite dishwasher ever made, is the exception; that Mother F**ker is a beast.


Post# 707051 , Reply# 24   10/3/2013 at 17:38 (3,829 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
disassembly, leaks, successes

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The motor spins wonderfully. I took off the spray arm and the black assembly underneath it. The black blades you see poorly in this pic spin when it's in WASH, smooth running motor. I tricked the lid lock and watched, motor is fine. Then I turned it off and poured in a pan of hot water, it instantly tripped the GFCI in my kithen and the water was on the floor in 30 seconds, seems to go out the motor assy, not the tub. I think??? Do I  need additional dis-assembly in the tub still, from this photo, or can I now undo the clamps holding the motor to the tub and slide it all out?


Post# 707054 , Reply# 25   10/3/2013 at 17:45 (3,829 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
more

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Excuse the terrible pics. The switch is GE #ASP3224-08. Googling and Ebay locate various ASP3224, but always a different last few numbers, which I assume is pretty important. The switch has 6 blades going into the 3 buttons. Only 4 wires for 4 contacts, other ASP3224-?? have a variety of different contacts, so I strongly guess I need the exact one. I believe it works electrically, and I cleaned tons of gross gunk out, but it's harder than hell to push the diff cycles. If I can't replace it and it's stuck on either Normal or PotsPans, I'll live. You have to help it along by pulling on the down buttons while pushing other cycles.

 

 

This pic is my sticking one, ASP 3224-08, made by GE


Post# 707055 , Reply# 26   10/3/2013 at 17:48 (3,829 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
more

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this pic is an Ebay pic, for clarity. It has 3 blades, not 6. And way too many contacts below instead of my 4. But's it's the overall body and style ASP3224, if it helps anyone help me. Thanks in advance.


Post# 707057 , Reply# 27   10/3/2013 at 17:51 (3,829 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
more

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Here's the front off. No Uni-coupler yet, so no idea if the water valve is good, etc, but everything seems to work, motor and timer and solenoid and detergent cup, as I slowly click thru the timer dial. I took the top pushbuttons and switches off for good cleaning, everything else looks OK to go.

 

You can see my KUDS23 behind it!


Post# 707058 , Reply# 28   10/3/2013 at 17:55 (3,829 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
last question for now

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Is this spray arm/tower supposed to have a gasket? Or just plastic to metal, with some leaking?


Post# 707091 , Reply# 29   10/3/2013 at 20:59 (3,829 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

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No gasket is needed where the "power-tower" meets the wash arm, just make sure the screws are reasonably tight when you reattach it.

With the switch bank, try a little, AND I MEAN A LITTLE, Teflon spray on the metal switch supports on top (what you're calling the "blades"), not the electrical leads. Let the spray soak in and down for a couple of minutes and then see if you can't loosen the switches by pushing them one after another.That has worked for me in the past. I have a service manual for these dishwashers that I will check to see if there are any service options for the switches other than replacement. Unfortunately these old bakelite switch banks were riveted, not screwed together, so, unless you have that equipment and skill, once you pry them apart to get at the rust and gunk inside, y'aint gettin' it back together again unless you're really talented with the duct tape.

And by the way, thank you for mentioning the 1968 manual for these dishwashers in the Ephemera library. Somehow I missed it when it was first offered and it is a perfect reference for my SM-301A, even though it's three years older.


Post# 707851 , Reply# 30   10/7/2013 at 22:32 (3,825 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
link

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here's the second thread, the rebuild



CLICK HERE TO GO TO akronman's LINK

Post# 708054 , Reply# 31   10/8/2013 at 21:09 (3,824 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Isn't It Amazing....

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....How the portable/convertible dishwashers in ads never made the kitchen look crowded or junky?

And how the ones in real life always did?

(Don't anyone hit me - I own a KitchenAid KDS-55 portable/convertible)

P.S.: "Conolite" is a laminate made by Panolam, formerly Pioneer Plastics. I would be willing to bet the Conolite itself is not actually rotted, that it's the substrate material it's glued to that's the problem. That laminate looks like it's dirty as Hell, probably with grease buildup or old Contact paper adhesive. I'd try some lighter fluid on it, and you might be amazed. If it comes clean, it can probably be carefully dislodged from the old substrate and a new substrate cut; you would then re-glue the Conolite to the new substrate and re-install the panel.



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