Thread Number: 48798
How to get True Hot Wash
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Post# 706736   10/2/2013 at 08:41 (3,830 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        

Hi.
I was wondering if anyone knows how to get a 'TRUE' hot wash in a front load washer. I have a new Samsung front load washer and when I select the HOT for wash temp, the water is just very warm.

I already tweaked the machine to add more water to it, and it works great. How, I would like to know if there is a way to get a true hot wash and a true warm wash.

PS: Is you want to know how I got it to add more water, let me know.

Any help for getting the hot water from the water to the machine without mixing cold, would be appreciated.


Thanks


Ray





Post# 706743 , Reply# 1   10/2/2013 at 09:56 (3,830 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Do you purge the cool water standing in the hot water lines before you fill the machine? This is especially important if the water heater is not close to the washer. Have you measured the water entering the washer and compared it to what you get from a hot water tap? If the machine is adding cold to the hot fill, you will have to overcome that by either turning off the cold faucet during hot fill and see if the machine will still fill or by sticking a hose in and filling it manually with hot water. If what you are experiencing is temperature drop from heat loss to cold machine parts, you can fill it with hot water without any laundry in it, let it tumble a coule of minutes to heat up the machine then do a cancel and drain and start over with the load in the machine.

Post# 706751 , Reply# 2   10/2/2013 at 11:07 (3,830 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        
Tom

Hi Tom. My washer is about 6' away from water heater. When I select normal, temp HOT, the machines starts out with HOT water and then about half way through the fill it finishes with COLD. I was wondering when I select the STEAM option if that would heat the water in the machine also.

Your thoughts.

Thanks, Ray

Getting back to adding more water.... I was able to do this on this machine. It is a simple turn of a set screw. The water level for the normal cycle comes up to just over the tub and on to the boot, and over the boot for the rinse. You see a nice sloshing action. Now on Permanent Press and Delicate, the water comes up below the the door that juts into the machine. The rinse and spin even higher.
The delicate cycle come up about 1/4 or a little more to the middle of the window.

I now get a good wash and rinse action.


Post# 706752 , Reply# 3   10/2/2013 at 11:07 (3,830 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

logixx's profile picture

Which model is the Sammy?


Post# 706753 , Reply# 4   10/2/2013 at 11:10 (3,830 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        

Tom. I did turn the cold valve off, but the machine still wanted to add cold and just moved back and forth until I turned the COLD back on again.

Post# 706772 , Reply# 5   10/2/2013 at 13:39 (3,830 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

This is a classic case of the built-in "we know best" auto-temperature system that can't be changed as far as I know.  I get the same thing in my Affinity.  When we had a Duet at the other house, I tried to turn the cold supply down to a trickle and got an error code as a result.

 

As far as I know, there's no getting around it.  Sometimes what I do is let the water from the tap at the laundry sink get not quite hot before turning the machine on, which often tricks it into not adding cold water toward the end of the fill.  YMMV depending on load size.


Post# 706802 , Reply# 6   10/2/2013 at 15:27 (3,830 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
you can also try removing the plug from, or the whole sensor unit, that monitors the temperature.....

this depends on where and how its connected/located......

on the Cabrio, the sensor itself pops out of a slot...the good side....all HOT fill...the down side, no warm wash.....with it connected, theres only a 10 degree drop from the water heater temp....my water heater is set at 150....I get a 140 in the machine....

on the Frigidaire FL.....all I had to do was unplug the sensor....and there actually is a blank slot to slide it into....it disables the Auto-temp control...

odd...used to be, Auto-temp control was adding Hot/Warm to a Cold wash so detergent would disolve and activate.....now were going in he opposite direction.....

I don't get these drops in Temps or insisting on a COLD water wash......I could see the savings for a TL machine....but the whole idea of getting a FL was that I could wash in HOT or true WARM, and save money because of the small amount of water needed versus a TL......not to mention the higher spin speeds.....for less drying time....may be its just me!....

all I can say Ray, is try a few things and see what happens when it fills.....another trial and error and see what you find....



Post# 706813 , Reply# 7   10/2/2013 at 16:06 (3,830 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
RayJay

launderess's profile picture
As one recalls you have an AEG stored someone where on your property. The movement you are waiting for is on your shoulder! *LOL*

Post# 706821 , Reply# 8   10/2/2013 at 16:19 (3,830 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

I wonder what would happen if when it tried to add cold, you kept the cold faucet turned off and filled it with hot water from a hose through the dispenser. I support that kind of forced feeding. It would seem that once the water level switch was satisfied, it would get on with washing. It's a shame we can remember when automatic washers could be set for what WE wanted them to do.

Post# 706828 , Reply# 9   10/2/2013 at 16:48 (3,830 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
these new machines have idiotic intelligence installed.....it will give an error code, more along the lines of self diagnostic, and alert if either HOT or COLD is turned off......

in vintage machines, for many people who washed only in COLD water per say, would only hook up to one tap, and cap off the HOT water side......can't be dont with many of today machines.....we have that issue with testing machines in our garages, even with a "Y" connector, for one its looking for water pressure, and two it will open only the HOT valve expecting the temp to change as normal hot water would arrive to the machine....

Like Ralph, I have tried turing the COLD off, or down to a trickle.....damn thing senses that as being a problem, you will get an error code, and/or machine shut down until problem is corrected.....

were looking to override this, and have the machine do this automatically......not always the case......the only choice so far is to babysit the machine, and do it the manual way.....
What you can do, is let the machine start to fill, hit 'pause', and then fill thru the dispenser with HOT water only to a level you require, and then hit 'start' to continue with the load.....thats about the best we have so far....

some things we can alter......and some things are built in that won't allow us to do so....

one thing I did to the Cabrio yesterday, took the restrictors out of the valves, now the fill is full flow and fast, not this eye dropper trickle which took forever for it to fill....WTH did those restrictors serve except to make a 1 hour wash cycle take even longer...


Post# 706834 , Reply# 10   10/2/2013 at 17:07 (3,830 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)        
Anything electronic that can be done

kb0nes's profile picture
can be undone...

If someone was a bit resourceful the temperature sensor could be over ridden or at least tricked to read in error.

Most likely (I'm guessing here I don't know the machine in question) there is a sensor which is simply a temperature dependent resistor which provides feedback into the computer. Perhaps by adding resistance in series or parallel would allow one to trick the computer into providing different temperature water. It might even be possible to have an external control that allows one to dial in the temp they want.

The only fly-in-the-ointment I see is the possibility that the control looks at the sensor for changes in response to valve actuation. If this is the case it might thwart attempts to game the system.


Post# 706849 , Reply# 11   10/2/2013 at 17:52 (3,830 days old) by washer111 ()        
Reverse the Hoses?

I know it sounds stupid, but seeing as you've tried reducing cold flow to no avail, perhaps reversing the hoses would work? To be quite honest, it is none of Samsung's business how hot your cold tap is. What if you live in the Sahara desert? 

 

You could also try using a tempering UP valve to increase the temperature of your cold water for the washer - instead of it being in the 60s or 70s, you could make it into the 90s or maybe just tipping 100. Again if the machine can't get cold enough water, will it "chuck a spazz?" This would be worth considering if hose reversal works fine, because that proves it just cycles. 


Post# 706853 , Reply# 12   10/2/2013 at 18:07 (3,830 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
we tried to reverse hose procedure.....but then we got all HOT rinses...

as much as you hate to, raising the water heater higher might help.....adding COLD water to 120 degree water will give you a luke warm wash versus adding COLD to 160 degree water.....you may not get total HOT water, but close to it...like I said, I am only getting a 10 degree drop......your mileage may vary

give it a try, it might work....


Post# 706862 , Reply# 13   10/2/2013 at 18:48 (3,830 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Maybe you could send it back and get a Speed Queen--the ultimate adjustment. I think Martin's idea of hitting pause and filling manually is the best.

Post# 706883 , Reply# 14   10/2/2013 at 20:01 (3,830 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        

pierreandreply4's profile picture
or simple as that get a top load vintage washer

Post# 706892 , Reply# 15   10/2/2013 at 21:46 (3,830 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        

Thanks for all of your suggestions guys.

I really love the machine since I did the adjustment for more water.
When I get a chance I will take a video. The machine really cleans great and now ever better rinsing with the added water.

I was thinking.....what if I connected both the and cold with a splitter valve for the wash???? Meaning both hoses with a splitter hooked up to the hot water valve??

But then how would I get a cold rinse??? Is there a way to do this with another splitter???

For now I just select a hot wash when I want a warm wash.
I was wondering if I use STEAM option if I would get a hotter wash?

Comments please?

Thanks Ray


Post# 706893 , Reply# 16   10/2/2013 at 21:49 (3,830 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        
Sammy model

Alex, (logixx). The model of my Samsung is: WF405ATPAWR/AZ



Post# 706895 , Reply# 17   10/2/2013 at 21:50 (3,830 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        
aeg

HI Laundress.

Yes I have that AEG from 1991 and it was only used for a year on a regular basis and once in awhile for delicates after that. Machine is in mint condition, however, the tub is so small.


Post# 706896 , Reply# 18   10/2/2013 at 22:01 (3,830 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Cannot Imagine Yours' Is Any Different Than Mine

launderess's profile picture
That is a 5kg/11lb capacity. You can get quite a lot of laundry in there!

I'd bring the old gal in and hook her up for use when you want hot to boil washes.

What model is your Lavamat?



Post# 706956 , Reply# 19   10/3/2013 at 07:33 (3,830 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

What does your owner's manual say the steam cycle does? Stop wondering and start reading.

Post# 706960 , Reply# 20   10/3/2013 at 08:16 (3,829 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

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Since your model does not seem to have a steam generator, the steam option will likly turn the heating element on to *somewhat* boost the temperature. The Deep Steam cycle will also raise the temperature. Certain cycles, like Heavy Duty or higher soil level can also increase the target temp.

 

Alex


Post# 707071 , Reply# 21   10/3/2013 at 18:43 (3,829 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
This model has a heating element, doesn't it? So why is filling with hot water so important when you can use the extra hot setting?

Post# 707090 , Reply# 22   10/3/2013 at 20:52 (3,829 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        

The extra hot settinv only works when you select the sanitize cycle
It give a long 150 degree wash. I just want the hot water from my water heater


Post# 707341 , Reply# 23   10/5/2013 at 07:56 (3,827 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

I thought about a bit, yeah, let's say, more unconventional way of getting any temp you want, but it only works if it got one of these mixingchamber-systems with the sensor directly behind the inlet vavles I think.
What you need:
1. 1 2 foot hose and a shorter one
2. A matching sized drill.
3. Anything you need to open up the machine.
4. 1 standard Y-piece.
5. 1 Y-piece withe a valve (or 2).

1.Connected washer to both hot and cold.
2. Open the top of the washer, disconected the pipe from valve/mixing-camber to the dispenser on the dispenser side.
3. Get the longer hose-piece and drill a whole in the back of the machine that matches the diameter.
4. Now connected one Y-piece to the removed inlet-to-dispenser-hose.
5. The smaller hose is now used to connect the Y-piece to the dispenser.
6.The longer hose is connected to the Y-piece and placed through the whole in the back.
7. Now the Hot pipe is disconnected an connected to the none-valve Y-piece-side of the one with valve.
8.The hot inlet to the washer is connected to the non valve side of the Y-piece.
9. Now the reaming Y-piece side with valve is connected to the new hose.

If you now want a hot wash, you just have to turn the valve to open when the washer starts a cold fill and when enough water filled in the tub, you just close it again and still get cold rinses. The sytem van be optimized by turning of the cold faucet during the cold fill. And it can be used for purging the lines before the wash either. Just set it to drain and open the Y-piece valve...


Post# 707520 , Reply# 24   10/6/2013 at 09:43 (3,826 days old) by frontloaderfan (Merrimac valley, MA)        
@ Martin

frontloaderfan's profile picture
would unplugging the sensor work on a 2012 Frigidaire FL and if so, where is the sensor to unplug it? I would love to do this as well seeing how my machine starts the fill with hot water and then halfway through dumps ice cold water in the rest of the way....

Post# 707554 , Reply# 25   10/6/2013 at 13:29 (3,826 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
Ryan

I was getting either all HOT or all COLD washes...no WARM...the AUTO temp was not working....they came out and replaced the valve assembly, no auto temp sensor was there, but a blank spot for the plug to go......so that's where that got stuck....

so now I get whatever the water temp from the spigots give me, hot is hot, warm is mixed, and cold is tap cold.....I think like it better this way.....

I have to open the top and look, the sensor used to be part of the valve assembly, which has long ports going directly into the dispenser.....

I will get you some pics....

but all the tech did was unplug it, if it wasn't for the blank port, it would just be hanging there....this was Frigidaires solution to the problem, not fix it, but do away with it....


Post# 707588 , Reply# 26   10/6/2013 at 15:48 (3,826 days old) by frontloaderfan (Merrimac valley, MA)        

frontloaderfan's profile picture
Ah, okay. I'm looking forward to it. This would normally be a good machine but they just built in some REALLY stupid stuff, like the impossibly low water level and the tepid "hot" wash temp.
If I get it all done right I'll have to post some before and after pics...


Post# 707715 , Reply# 27   10/7/2013 at 10:37 (3,825 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        

Martin.

I was wondering if this can be done on my Samsung/

Ryan. I have to say I really love this Samsung. With the adjustment I get plenty of water for wash and more for the rinses. I feel the clothes come out much fresher.

NOW.....The temp issue..... lol


Post# 707770 , Reply# 28   10/7/2013 at 16:15 (3,825 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
there has to be a sensor in the intake water line somewhere, just remove it from its slot, or unplug it, and see what results you get!...checking temps for all the temps...

Post# 707813 , Reply# 29   10/7/2013 at 19:00 (3,825 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        

pierreandreply4's profile picture
i would advise not using hot water for washing clothes as you can get the same cleaning power washing only in cold water

Post# 707829 , Reply# 30   10/7/2013 at 20:33 (3,825 days old) by washer111 ()        
Pierre:

The Hot vs. Cold debate seems to be never ending on this forum. Its already happened at least 3 times this year alone. I for one am not ready to go into that argument again.

 

The member posing the question was not interested in our opinions about washing Hot vs. Cold, rather, they were asking how to get a truly Hot/Warm wash for the times they require it - not the "Eco Mandated" tepid water temperatures the machine currently provides. Perhaps he has some sturdy Cottons, Towels or Bed-Sheets he would like washed properly in the machine? Perhaps not. It doesn't matter, it is still a valid question. His experience with Cold water may vary to yours, so please do keep that in mind.  


Post# 707916 , Reply# 31   10/8/2013 at 09:32 (3,824 days old) by joe_in_philly (Philadelphia, PA, USA)        

joe_in_philly's profile picture
Ray:

Perhaps different cycles on your machine result in higher wash temps. I know on Whirlpool machines, the Normal cycle, which is used for energy ratings, uses less water and lower temps than the whites or heavy duty cycle. Perhaps there are cycles on your machine that will heat the wash water to a higher temperature.

Joe


Post# 707922 , Reply# 32   10/8/2013 at 10:19 (3,824 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        

Hi Joe. I think if I select steam on Normal or Stain Away I may get it a little hotter. I have to try. I will try the Heavy Duty and see that happens.
Thanks for the advise. Howver, I am just happy that I get so much more water in the machine. I will have to video and post here.

Ray


Post# 707925 , Reply# 33   10/8/2013 at 10:23 (3,824 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        
Hot vs Cold Wash

I guess I am just form the old school. For light and dark colored clothes cold or warm works well. For towels and whites I like hot since I use chlorine bleach on the whites and bleachables. I have tested washing whites on cold with bleach.

The whites washed in HOT with bleach came out better. I think the hot water activates the bleach better. Who knows. Just my opinion.

If you have grease spots on whites and colored clothes, it seems warm or hot water realeases the stain better.


Post# 707927 , Reply# 34   10/8/2013 at 10:24 (3,824 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        
AEG Washer

Laundress. I have the AEG Bella Super which I bought in 1991. Machine only used for 2 years. It is like new.

I will check size and post here.

Thanks


Ray


Post# 707949 , Reply# 35   10/8/2013 at 12:01 (3,824 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

logixx's profile picture
Try the Deep Steam.

Post# 707979 , Reply# 36   10/8/2013 at 13:57 (3,824 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        
Martin...

Would disconnecting the sensor on my bro's 2010 WP DD have any effect (if such a thing is even possible), or would that just make it not work at all?



This post was last edited 10/08/2013 at 14:32
Post# 707991 , Reply# 37   10/8/2013 at 15:14 (3,824 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
All I can say with these sensors is disconnect, or move them out of the way, and see what your individual machine would do...each one is programmed a little different on how it adjust the temps.....

I would never do this on my Neptunes, because its somewhat oldschool, it raises the cold water temp up...never dubs down the hot or warm wash....

on the Cabrio, with the sensor removed from its slot, gave either an all HOT or all COLD wash, it could not sense the water to give you a WARM wash without that sensor.....but as mentioned, HOT was only reduced 10 degrees from the water heater, WARM on the other hand was COOL at best.....and I swear the COLD selection was popping out ice cubes.......on this machine I select HOT/COLD for every load...

and you have to search and play with these machines, it is nerve wrecking, HOT on the HeavyDuty cycle is not the same temp as HOT for PermPress....

I literally praise every vintage machine, and Neptune I have, and hope to keep them as long as possible.....nothing like selecting HOT, and having the steam fog up the room as its filling....and getting an exact WARM wash as selected...

I don't get this craze for COLD washing, especially in HE and FL machines, I tried washing in cooler temps of a regular TL machine to save money, but getting a HE machine, that uses plenty of water was the perfect ticket to using less water than a regular TL, detergent, and the high speed spin.....every load now is set to WARM/WARM, because its cheaper to wash and rinse that way now.....

what are we talking here, at most 2 to 4 gallons of HOT water for a fill....I have 3 kids, which still feels like I have all 10 again when it comes to laundry, what some of you guys wash in a week, I do in most days, at these temps, my bills are NOT sky rocketing!....


Post# 708121 , Reply# 38   10/9/2013 at 08:20 (3,823 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        
Article on Cold Water Washing

Here is an article I saw today on Yahoo. So much for Cold Water Washing.

..Are You Washing Your Clothes Wrong? Probably.
..By Alexis Clark, Senior Features Editor
.Posts .By Alexis Clark, Senior Features Editor | Healthy Living – 20 hours ago
....Email 0Share
586Tweet0Print.....
Photo by Getty ImagesIt’s quite possible that your newly washed, April-fresh-smelling clothes aren’t as clean as you think. Recent research by the American Cleaning Institute (ACI) and other experts indicate that many of us are going about the practice of washing our clothes completely wrong.

For starters, if you’re washing clothes in cold water, using antibacterial detergent, or simply not washing certain items frequently enough, you may have to change some old habits.


More on Shine: 5 Simple Ways to Stay Cold and Flu Free


When it comes to water temperature, you probably need to go hotter. “If you’re putting clothes in cold water, you aren’t getting rid of bacteria,” Marcelle Pick, an ob-gyn and pediatric nurse practitioner at the Women to Women health care center based in Yarmouth, Maine, tells Yahoo Shine. “For babies, their clothes tend to be more contaminated, so you should definitely wash using hotter temperatures.”

Onesies and soft-stuffed animals may look adorable, but there’s a chance they contain bacteria derived from feces. “Once you become a parent, the amount of laundry you do skyrockets,” says Janet Ozzard, executive editor of the Baby Center. “And if you're taking care of a newborn, a lot of the stuff that comes out of babies is as germy as it gets — spit-up, pee, and poop.”

According to the ACI’s best practices, cold water can be used to presoak heavily soiled items. But for the actual wash cycle, hot water should be used, along with detergent and bleach, if necessary, to thoroughly clean, sanitize, and disinfect.

But many environmentalists, who advocate using cold water over hot water for machine-washing in order to save energy, have a different take on the study. Ed Osann, Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC) senior water policy analyst, explained to Shine in an email that the most important part of the process is using an effective detergent, not using hot water. “Warm or even hot water is not hot enough to sterilize clothes exposed to fecal matter. If detergent is formulated for comparable effectiveness in cold water, then no extra benefit would be expected from warm water use." Osann suggested avoiding antibacterial detergents that actually promote the growth of resistant bacteria and making sure to thoroughly dry clothes.

More on Yahoo: Preventing the Spread of Antibiotic-Resistant 'Nightmare-Bacteria' and Superbugs

So what about adult clothes, towels and sheets? Are we cleaning those correctly? Probably not, or at least not often enough. The ACI breaks down the number of times your clothes should come into contact with soap and water. Underwear, socks, tanks, and T-shirts should be cleaned after each wear, along with tights and, believe it or not, jeggings. You can get three or four wears out of your jeans and khakis before they need a cleaning. Bed sheets should be washed at least every two weeks (but more often if you sweat a lot) and towels should be hung dry after each use and washed every three to four days.

Baby Center's Ozzard says that the best way to ensure your clothes stay hygienic is to keep the washing machine germ-free. Ozzard recommends first running an empty wash with hot water, bleach and soap to disinfect the machine.“Be sure to run an extra rinse cycle so the bleach is thoroughly flushed out.”

She also suggests starting off with whites and high-temperature items first, using hot water with detergent, then drying on high for 45 minutes to sanitize the dryer. “That way, when you do the rest of your laundry, the machines are fairly well sanitized.”

And you can still be kind to the environment while you adapt to your new wash cycle. Washing in warm water and line-drying in the sun is an eco-friendly way to thoroughly clean clothes and save energy, Ozzard says. Pick adds that as children get older, their clothes are less soiled and may not need to be washed at such high temperatures anymore.

The main takeaway: If you really want your tropical-fruit-and-cool-breeze-smelling clothes to be clean, consider warmer water, avoid antibacterial soap, do your whites first, and make sure your clothes get thoroughly dried. Post laundry nap optional.


Post# 708133 , Reply# 39   10/9/2013 at 09:18 (3,823 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
Nothing any of us haven't already known, or said before....

puzzling for most, is their trying to save energy by using COLD water, mainly from heating the water, and yet they dry their clothes in an Electric dryer, that heating element is pulling close to 5600 Watts, so you save in one area to waste in another...

granted I prefer Gas fired appliances, water heater, and heating....still use energy, just a lot more efficient and cheaper to use...not everyone has this availability...and again I get puzzled by the one way of thinking, to save energy wash clothes in COLD water, yet dishes HAVE to be washed in HOT, or needing HOT water for a shower.....you will most likely use more HOT water in one shower, than you will washing several loads of laundry!....if you want to be THAT efficient, turn the water heater off or get rid of it!...

IMHO, for me, using a Neptune FL, HOT/Warm setting, and drying in a Gas dryer....not only gives me cleaner clothes, yet being as efficient as possible...then again, maybe I am the one with blinders on

we just also need to look at other areas of energy savings, and not just in the laundry room......


Post# 708137 , Reply# 40   10/9/2013 at 09:48 (3,823 days old) by joe_in_philly (Philadelphia, PA, USA)        

joe_in_philly's profile picture

Opps - I just created a thread based on that story, Ray. I should have read here first!


Post# 708185 , Reply# 41   10/9/2013 at 15:21 (3,823 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Health and hygiene are blessings, but they come with a cost. The trick is to figure out whether health and hygiene are worth the cost associated with proper cleaning, from bathing to everything in the household. IF these costs are reasonable to you, continue. If they are deemed too high, figure out how you can make the most efficent use of the heated water that you use and balance that against the disinfectant products that you have to use because you are using cooler water for washing laundry and surfaces. The stupidist thing that comes to mind is inadequate washing in cold water and then paying money for products to clean your filthy washer. The utility companies are as guilty as anyone in promoting cold water washing. When you think about what must be living in a washing machine to make it smell so foul, how can you consider the laundry you take out of it to be clean? If you use a washcloth to thoroughly bathe yourself, how could you consider using it again? Towels rub dead skin cells off your body. Do you really want to smear them and whatever has grown on them over your clean body the next time you shower? This further begs the question about how well cold, especially winter tap cold water in northern states, is going to remove this culture of dead cells, bacteria and body oil from your towels and washcloths and whether it will be washed and rinsed away or just transferred from the dirty laundry to the insides of the washing machine. At no other time since automatic washers have been invented have washing machines needed further cleaning after a completed cycle except maybe after doing a really horrible load.

Tests years ago showed that the most bacteria-laden surface in a kitchen is the door handle of the refrigerator.

I guess schools are not teaching anything about hygiene anymore. One of the smartest biology teachers I ever heard of was distressed by the dirt under the long fingernails of young girls. He offered to show them what was living under their fingernails by scraping a bit of the dirt onto a slide. He explained that it needed to be made wet so he added a few drops of water that he had previously taken from the aquarium. The squeals and screams were followed by scrubbing with a brush he had handy. If people could see their filth, they would be cleaner. Instead they use deodorizers which atomize oils into the air to grow more filth.


Post# 708203 , Reply# 42   10/9/2013 at 17:33 (3,823 days old) by washer111 ()        
Effective Detergent in Cold Water:

To manage that, you are going to need some pretty nasty chemicals to activate bleaches, enzymes and the like at temperatures below 80ºF (27ºC). Are they suggesting we "save the environment" with Cold water washes, but have to use Engine-Degreaser in our detergent to get good results (i.e. remove body oils)? Antibacterial Soaps? 

 

That is ridiculous! Use the right temperature for the job, your machine will last longer, you will last longer and you will be cleaner, instead of relying on chemicals that end up creating super-dangerous bacteria. Like I've said: Once we switched from a Cold-Water only TL machine to the Miele, which heats its own water, I have not caught a cold to date (1 yr). My clothes are cleaner - not stiff or whiffy smelling straight out of the machine. The times the Miele has gone "Cold Water" on my (Automatic cycle), I can SMELL the difference!

 

As Launderess has put it, there are 3 (or four) components of laundry: Reducing any of them (Temperature, Time, Chemical and Mechanical action) requires increasing the others to compensate: Cold water washing = More detergent, More Washing time = More damage to clothes. Our Miele will increase the cycle time by about 30-40 minutes as you decrease the temperature from 140ºF (60ºC). 



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