Congratulations on your new vintage machines and welcome to the blog. You've certainly come to the right place. I don't have any experience with the AMP machines so I can't help you much there, but there's an elderly gentleman here in Burbank that's been working on Maytags since he was a kid. He's a storehouse of knowledge and he has a pretty good supply of AMP parts. His business is called Ralph's Maytag Shop(Ralph was his father) and he's located on Victory blvd. It'd be worth it to give him a call if you need any parts, meanwhile there are a number of folks on this blog that can provide advice on repairs.

One thing you'll want to track down is a parts manual for each of your machines. It's very hard to find the parts you're looking for if you don't know the part numbers, so that should be a priority. Automatic Ephemera(a companion site to this one) may have some electronic versions of these for you, I haven't checked, but if not, there are folks here on the blog that have them.

Anyways, good luck with your project and we'd all love to see pictures.

In going through my manuals this morning I find that I have the parts catalog for your dryer. I recently purchased the parts manuals for the AMP, A2MP, and A3MP on line as well. They aren't here yet, but if you haven't found a set of your own by the time they get here I can scan the one you need and email it to you.

Thanks for posting the pictures of these machines. They seem to be in really nice shape.

Hey there -

A few things to note before powering up your AMP.  More than likely, it has sat around for more than a few years.  Due to that, there are some precautionary things to look at prior to powering this beauty up.

1. Begin inspection. I think the A2MP has a solid cabinet.  You might be better off taking the whole cabinet off (two people required).  There should be a service door held on by two screws towards the top of the back side.  Once you gain access to the service door, you should find a bunch of wires with some black connectors.  Unplug all the wires from the connectors.  IIRC, the wires are color coded making it easy to reassemble.  Then take the dials off for the timer and the water temp switch, and it's also a good idea to pop the "Maytag" badge off the front.  Pulling up from the grey strip on the bottom will release the emblem. With the cabinet off, you can now inspect the hose from the water valve to the fill flume, and inspect the trip lever.  If you open the thread I linked to above, I talk about the trip lever in post 12.  Take some zoom spout oil and lubricate the trip lever.  Move the solenoid several times and add more oil.  It make take a few tries to get it fully functioning again.  You'll know it's working properly when it goes from agitating to spin without issue.
2. Take a look at the water valve.  It may be fine after all of these years, but it may also leak.  You can attempt to use it as is, but note that it might leak.  If it does leak I would recommend finding a replacement. 
3. It will probably need a new drive belt.  The belt part number is 211125.  It is readily available from any parts house.
4. The pump.  The outlet hose from the pump may still be soft and playable.  If so go ahead and pour about 3-4 cups of hot water down the drain tube.  This will allow the pump rope seal to soften up.  Rotate the pump by hand  (I rotate it prior a few times just to make sure it isn't completely seized up before putting water in it) with the hot water in the pump.  I also take a used Kirby vacuum belt and put it around the cork drive drum.  This helps give the pump some extra grip when riding the side of the belt.
5. The cord.  If the cord doesn't crumble in your hands, then you might be OK using it as is to test.  I usually replace the cords with a new cord from a box store (I just buy a 16 gauge grounded extension cord and cut the female end off).
6. Inspect the wires for the mercury switches.  Take the lid apart (don't mess with the spring for the leveling control built into the handle!).  In post 10 of the link I mentioned earlier, I show a picture of the switches.  If the wires haven't crumbled into pieces, you're set.  If they're starting to show bare wire, you may want to consider looking for new switches, or heat shrinking some tubing around them.
7. Testing - before testing, I usually fill the machine using a hose from the faucet rather than using the water valve, but feel free to fill it with the water valve if you're comfortable doing so.  These machines meter the water fill different than most other automatic washers.  The switches in the lid control two things.  The first is the switch on the back side (the single one).  That switch tells the machine if the lid is open or not.  I've bypassed that switch on my machine (jumping the black wire over to the yellow wire terminal).  The other two switches two more important as they tell the machine when to stop filling and when to engage the motor.  You can test the machine with the cabinet off (just run those wires you disconnected earlier back to the black connectors without putting the cabinet on), just note that you'll need to push the black float button up with the lid closed.  Once the machine starts agitating you can lift the lid if you've bypassed the lid switch.  Let the machine agitate for a few minutes, then advance the timer to spin.  This machine does not pause for spin, so it should start spinning right away.  If it starts clanking it means you need to add more lubrication to the trip lever.  Let it spin out the water out and check for leaks!
8. With the machine back together, you can then test the float built into the agitator.  I've seen where these work just fine, or they prematurely pop up regardless of the leveling position on the handle.  If it does indeed pop up too early then the bleed hole in the base of the agitator column is either completely plugged or partially plugged.  You will need to attend to this if it is tripping the water valve off too soon.

Remember to ask questions if you've got any issues or concerns.  Study the service manual carefully to get a good understanding of the washer prior to digging into it.

Your dryer should have the revised, fixed motor mount with the idler pulley for the pump.  You may need to take the belt to a belt shop and have them size it for you.  The water trip switch assembly is quite interesting on these.  I'm thinking Mark (Kenmore71) has the service manual scanned for this.  Hopefully he can be of some assistance.

Good luck!

Ben

Actually the 1952 manual that I sent you contains 7 supplements and covers ALL models (AM, AMP, A2MP, A3MP, A4MP, 101P, 102P and the 121P.  The A2MP gets no mention in that manual but I think that mainly has to do with the fact that, for all intents and purposes, the A2MP was basically an A3MP which was still installed in an original AMP cabinet.

(the cover also bears a copyright of 1950, which makes no sense).

As an aircraft mechanic I received numerous revisions to the aircraft maintenance manuals from the manufacturers that had no independent copyright. They were covered under the existing copyright of the manual they were going into. So perhaps the service manual was updated without the need for an entirely new copyright.

There is no need to remove the agitator.  Once you remove the outer cabinet you can remove the entire 3 tub assembly with the power unit intact.

Starting on page 22 of the service manual follow steps 3, 5, 8 & 9 (skipping the other steps)

You will need 2 people to remove the cabinet and it will be very helpful to have two people to remove the whole assembly and turn it over.

That large cast aluminum device forms the upper half of the gear housing(as you can probably already see), and there are two steel alignment pins in it that I have to assume are used to help orient the lower gear housing. You can see the end of one of them right there adjacent to the blown out piece. It's possible that the pin began to swell with corrosion and that led to the failure you see there, but that's just speculation on my part. Since the broken off section is no longer serving any useful purpose, I'd try pulling it off to get a look at that pin.

There should be as much material behind the pin as there was in front of it, so unless it's blown out too you may not have an oil leak here. But if it was my machine I'd want to disassemble things enough to make sure there were no cracks that went all the way through. If they aren't available(though I suspect they are)gaskets can be made without too much trouble, and then you'd have a good opportunity to change the oil as well.

That's actually been discussed on this blog several times with lots of varying opinions. As you're already aware the service manual calls out 1 and 3/4 pounds of 56080X, which I believe translates to the newer part number 056080. For all I know there's a newer number as well. Others argue that modern off the shelf substitutes will work just as well if not better. You should be able to find some of these discussions by digging around in the archives a bit. You can actually learn quite a bit by reading through the back and forth comments of some of this blogs heavy weights.

Congratulations and well done! Now you have to tell us all about it and provide photos.