Thread Number: 49498
How to hook up multiple washers in one room |
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Post# 715941 , Reply# 2   11/17/2013 at 21:38 (3,783 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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maybe this will give you an idea, or at least a start......I ran platic water lines along the wall, hot on top, and cold on the bottom, and you can add a station anytime/anywhere you want or need...simple cut and glue......a good idea to put shut offs at the beginning of your run, to turn off the whole room when not in use...
same for the drain lines......1-1/2 inch drain ports, and recommended the main bottom line be 2 or 3 inch...I had to change since this pic.....or even use a laundry tub or two spaced as needed... electrical is similar....12/2 romex....your setup may be different, I run the whole room on 2 - 20amp circuits...again, I can turn off all machines at the flip of a button... |
Post# 715942 , Reply# 3   11/17/2013 at 21:42 (3,783 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 716012 , Reply# 5   11/18/2013 at 06:04 (3,783 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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this link was the start of the house in the city......so far its 11 washers and 6 dryers, everything but one dryer is hooked up...plus add in a few portables and a wringer.....and space for a few more before I start the "one in, one out" rule...
still deciding what to do at the country house for the vintage lineup....theres already the lineup of 6 more Neptunes along one wall(and another set upstairs)......and 4 stations for vintage machines along the other...still in progress! CLICK HERE TO GO TO Yogitunes's LINK |
Post# 716064 , Reply# 7   11/18/2013 at 14:06 (3,783 days old) by washdaddy (Baltimore)   |   | |
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I think I would become a shut-in in that room. Playing in it all day and sneaking out at night maybe to scoop up a new toy to add to the collective. Perhaps grab a little nibble to keep myself going. LMAO ;) Great looking set-up. |
Post# 716078 , Reply# 9   11/18/2013 at 16:00 (3,783 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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side open lids, I think it was just a signature trait, like on a Kenmore, it could have been of the knobs in the way as well, some earlier models had a dispen-so-mat at the fill flume, and a rear opening lid would have been in the way....
I like the side opening because it gives full view of the control panel when open, and some models also had a full light that would also shine down inside the machine...the lid allowed some ease when unloading clothes to hold the basket.... only issue is like this lineup and their in the way for the next machine... |
Post# 716662 , Reply# 11   11/20/2013 at 22:19 (3,780 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 716674 , Reply# 12   11/20/2013 at 23:20 (3,780 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)   |   | |
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Only one GFI is needed, it can protect everything down line from it. |
Post# 718235 , Reply# 17   11/27/2013 at 23:56 (3,773 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 718308 , Reply# 18   11/28/2013 at 13:54 (3,773 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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I've been very happy with my 8-machine setup. Hot and cold supply is via copper lines with shutoffs, and drain is by a main 3" PVC run with 2" risers. Because we're on a septic system, I was concerned about the amount of water the machines would introduce, so I tee'd the PVC with a 2" ball valve that allows diverting x-amount of drain water to a gray water pit.
Power is via surface mount steel boxes and conduit just below console height. Each box includes a duplex receptacle (handles 2 machines) plus a lighted bat switch so I can tell at a glance which machines are powered. By running a pair of 12-3 Romex, each machine pair gets its own 20 amp breaker. Some things to consider: 2" dia risers will accommodate drain hose pairs, just space them to fall between machines. If you plan on running multiple machines at once, go for a 3" main drain pipe, especially if you have quick emptying machines like Frigidaires. Slightly slope your supply lines and include drain valves at the lowest point if there's a risk of freezing. Use rubber caps on your PVC if there's a possibility you might one day add-on. This also allows clean out . Use ball valves for max flow, and sweep-tees for your risers (it does make a difference) Use 12ga wire, ground everything and avoid GFCIs. -Cory |
Post# 718393 , Reply# 19   11/29/2013 at 08:13 (3,772 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Post# 718573 , Reply# 20   11/30/2013 at 13:19 (3,771 days old) by mrx ()   |   | |
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GFCI's on all outlet circuits here and you don't get nuisance trips really unless there's a genuine fault. For example, the dishwasher's tripped it but it's invariably been because of a leak! |
Post# 718609 , Reply# 21   11/30/2013 at 19:21 (3,771 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Hi Ronan,
The problem we have in this country is that people assume that a GFCI circuit = safety, so these units get installed everywhere. All the while not realizing most units from the box store are of off-shore quality and are of little value to equipment that has a ground conductor. Will they work when you need them (when you end up as part of the circuit)? Will they nuissance trip? Will they catch fire? To make matters worse, the inexpensive variety are only rated at 15 amps, and they get put on 12ga 20 amp circuits, or slipped into the head of parallel branch outlets. The breaker never gets changed and now the downstream "protection" limit is reduced. Little stickers are provided so that branch outlets can be marked, but that almost never happens. When it comes to permanent and semi-permanent equipment, a secure ground eliminates any risk of electrical shock while a GFCI can only detect a current imbalance and act accordingly (if it works at all). One need never worry when three Maytags go into spin if they're exceeding the protection limit, or if future protection has been compromised. Plus, one needn't worry about protection being compromised due to a lightning strike or power surge which can affect the semiconductor sensing circuits. |
Post# 718706 , Reply# 23   12/1/2013 at 17:27 (3,770 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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I very much agree with Cory, you do not need GFIs on non portable appliances that have three wire cords. While they may not cause that much trouble on washers and DWs they should NEVER BE USED ON REFRIGERATORS AND FREEZERS, unless you don't mind the possibility of coming home from a weekend away from home to find your refrigerator has been off for two days.
Refrigerators, freezers automatic washers and DWs are a likely appliances for causing nuisance tips, when no hazard to the user or appliance or home exists. |
Post# 718707 , Reply# 24   12/1/2013 at 17:36 (3,770 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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John ain't kidding......
in my new home, theres an alcove for the freezer.....and they installed a GFI...never gave it much thought, until, one time the power went out, and later came back on, I didn't pay attention that the freezer's tiny light was not on, and the 'warm temp' buzzer did not go off, only because it operates when it has power, and it 'reset' to 'off' if it is unplugged or looses power....... needless to say, I opened the door one day to a landslide of food....all thawed out!.... since then I changed this to a regular outlet...not to mention this outlet is located behind a standup freezer...... brilliant minds at work! |