Thread Number: 49905
Speed Queen the Only "Sane" Modern Washer Left? |
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Post# 720719 , Reply# 1   12/12/2013 at 00:57 (3,787 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))   |   | |
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I'm a young man stuck in an old guy's body and I dislike the 'newfangledness for no dawlgone dagflabbed good reason' too. This retirement ghetto doesn't allow personal laundry equipment but I still own a 'basic' mechanical timer frontloader I bought in 1998 and in the 14 years it ran nothing went wrong and it didn't even stink. It's even simpler than a SQ. Motor, belt, standalone pump.
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Post# 720845 , Reply# 5   12/12/2013 at 16:08 (3,786 days old) by mayfan69 (Brisbane Queensland Australia)   |   | |
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Post# 720902 , Reply# 6   12/12/2013 at 20:32 (3,786 days old) by JeffG ()   |   | |
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Leon, thanks for the info. I wonder if it's just a matter of swapping out the timers to get a neutral drain? |
Post# 720939 , Reply# 7   12/12/2013 at 21:43 (3,786 days old) by mayfan69 (Brisbane Queensland Australia)   |   | |
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Hi Jeff
I think it probably would be about swapping timers. I'll have to have a look at what information i have and see if i have any wiring diagrams which show this. I do know there was a 'kit' available to repairmen here in Australia to retro-fit the early Speed Queen/Kleenmaid machines from spin-drain to neutral drain, whatever i find i can email you. Cheers Leon |
Post# 721118 , Reply# 8   12/14/2013 at 07:51 (3,785 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Coreyere, I am glad you and your family are enjoying your SQ TL washer, they are refreshingly simple to use and understand, which is why we sell so many of them.
SQ put the thread lock on the water level adjustment screw NOT so you could not change it, but so the adjustment would not move on its own, and, if you readjusted the water level you would be wise to put a little thread locking material or even nail polish on the screw threads. The center main seal has been greatly improved , BUT all washers with a moving water seal at the bottom of a tub full of water could eventually have a serious problem, this was also true GE FF, MT Helical Dr washers, Norge, current GE TL washers and now WP built belt drive and higher end direct drive Cabro style washers. The seal design of the old WP BD and the WP DD washers did not have this kind of troublesome main water seal which is a main reason that these washers often lasted so long under adverse usage conditions. I to wish that SQ would go to a neutral drain system and while ND is not a perfect way to get the dirty water out of the washer it is FAR BETTER than trying to spin the load while draining. When the tub starts spinning and draining at the same time any scum on top of the water is immediately sent down into the center of the load and strained and forced through the clothing. Any sediment and much of the lint still in the load is also forced to the side with the clothing and held there by the spinning force and the clothing, if the tub was not spinning at this point more of this sediment and lint would just drain away with the exiting water through the holes in the bottom of the tub. This action is VERY WELL PROVEN. WP went to a lot of extra expense when designing and building their BD washers to make them ND and EVERY WP built BD washer through 1987 NDed. WP tried to cut cost when they introduced the DD washer in 1981, but the poor results quickly caught up with them [ we were actually taking back DD washers and giving the customer BD washers in the mid 1980s beaus of linting complaints ] and therefore they devised a clever way to make the new DD system ND. Every TL washer in the world uses ND now and if SQ keeps making TL washers much longer you will also see it on new SQs. John L. |
Post# 721183 , Reply# 10   12/14/2013 at 13:13 (3,784 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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considering the pump out height of a SQ is not all that high.....an electrical pump may be more helpful for many installs, running high speed all the time versus the slower motor speeds....
and sometimes helpful should the main motor give out, at least you can still drain the machine for service..... not everyone has the perfect station for washer installations... the Neutral drain, if anything, takes the heavy load off the machine before the spin....and lowering the load of clothing gives it more of a center a gravity for balancing.... there are pros and cons in every situation.... |
Post# 721853 , Reply# 12   12/18/2013 at 15:51 (3,780 days old) by thefixer ()   |   | |
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So, the control board doesn't care if lid switch is never cycled? Some washers with electronic control will disable the washer if it doesn't detect opening/closing of the lid within a certain number of wash cycles. |
Post# 721863 , Reply# 13   12/18/2013 at 17:24 (3,780 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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yes, you have to pull the lid switch actuator out after every load to reset the machine.....odd, but it has to be done....not the best bypass of a switch, but it gets us thru....
I took the restrictors out of mine, take off the hoses, pull out the plastic screens, reach in with needlenose pliers and pull out that little black circular washer inside, push the screens back in, and re-attach the hoses......made a world of difference during fill time...otherwise it seemed to take forever...they can be put back in place just as easy... |
Post# 721935 , Reply# 14   12/19/2013 at 00:50 (3,780 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 721936 , Reply# 15   12/19/2013 at 01:01 (3,780 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Ok I just typed 2 paragraphs apparently adding any faces deletes it all...GRRRR
Any way,
After using a speed queen as a daily driver for nearly a month Im monster happy with it, and its way better over any machine sold in the last 10 years by a long shot. Built like a machine from the early 80s. It is the only sane washer out there and as would be their front loaders. The newer whirlpools are way to slow, they fill slow, pump out slow, spin takes sometime to ramp up plus the machine pauses for long periods during the cycle all in the name of energy. I regret to say but outside of speed queen the new top loads are gone. The newer Whirlpools also no loner seem to have an adjustable pressure switch but rather the control board decides that even on the models with a fill water level selector nob.
In my experience spin draining is something I prefer. Lint and dirt seems to be centrifugally pulled away from the clothes rather than just being strained through the clothes then being folded into the ridges during the spin. Spin draining also brings the clothes up higher which pulls more water out in the end, plus less wrinkling since the clothes don't clump up at the bottom.
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Post# 721960 , Reply# 17   12/19/2013 at 07:51 (3,780 days old) by ken (NYS)   |   | |
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Post# 722040 , Reply# 18   12/19/2013 at 15:42 (3,779 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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I don't think you will regret it. When they do finally turn the top loaders into high efficiency machines (Im sure as I type they are testing prototypes) the certainly will not be the same. The commercial models are already pilot testing a cool down as a full rinse where half the water is drained out then refilled. I would definitely keep in storage for future use it will be like buying a normal machine brand spakin new while no one else can... priceless! |
Post# 722046 , Reply# 19   12/19/2013 at 16:00 (3,779 days old) by JeffG ()   |   | |
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If they plan on not being litigated out of business they better include an option to not use this water-saving "feature". The last thing I want my clothes rinsed in is e.g. poison oak or ivy oil residues. |
Post# 722068 , Reply# 20   12/19/2013 at 18:25 (3,779 days old) by washman (o)   |   | |
This post has been removed by the webmaster. |
Post# 722103 , Reply# 23   12/19/2013 at 22:25 (3,779 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Nothing is unfair to the webmaster on this thread. -- Then it looks like we need to check the rules. Let's go over the Forum Topics as are printed into the rules:
Deluxe Forum: The Deluxe Discussion Forum for topics relating to modern/current automatic washers, dryers and dishwashers made less than 20 years ago, thru today and beyond. Dirty Laundry: A donating member only forum for discussion around any off-topic subject that might be controversial such as Politics, Religion, Sexual Overtones, etc. Ben while I agree with a few of your points, your post is clearly a political rant and it does not belong in the Deluxe forum. If you want to discuss politics then you are going to have to upgrade and post them in Dirty Laundry. This is it now, no more heavy duty political talk in the public forums please. A small mention of is fine once in a while, but this is way overboard. Thank you. |
Post# 722410 , Reply# 25   12/21/2013 at 18:00 (3,777 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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This was done to make the gear case quieter during spin, WP built over 100 MILLION DD washers and is actually still building two popular 24" and 27" stack machines with the cast iron DD transmission.
I have NEVER seen a single failure of this nylon gear. Maytag also used a plastic pinion gear in EVERY automatic washer they ever built going back to their first automatic in 1949 and AGAIN I have never seen one of these gears fail. Plastic is one of the best things that ever happened to Automatic Washer Production and in most cases when a part was changed from metal to a plastic material the durability of the machine became better. John L. |
Post# 722416 , Reply# 26   12/21/2013 at 18:14 (3,777 days old) by mayfan69 (Brisbane Queensland Australia)   |   | |
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I have to agree with John on the plastic pinion gear: I've stripped down gearboxes for various Simpson's and Wilkins Servis's (which use the Maytag gearbox) here in Australia and have seen a metal pinion gear in a Simpson transmission completely worn down, but NEVER in either transmission's where they have the plastic pinion gear.
Cheers Leon |
Post# 722447 , Reply# 27   12/21/2013 at 20:26 (3,777 days old) by coreyare (Dullsville, Washington)   |   | |
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Ah, I stand corrected, but I have seen a few tubers have videos of worn spin gears :O |
Post# 722477 , Reply# 28   12/21/2013 at 22:26 (3,777 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)   |   | |
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Post# 723476 , Reply# 32   12/27/2013 at 23:24 (3,771 days old) by Chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 723529 , Reply# 35   12/28/2013 at 12:51 (3,770 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Over loading will do just about anything to a machine. But, a DD that was used with care will last, common failures only being the motor coupler and clutch. I hope you get more out of your DD, 23 years of performance is a sign of taking care of the machine that was built to last to start with. The second generation of DDs (the ones right after the spin drainers) easily went 20 plus years. I know of some 1989 Kenmore DDs still chugging along with only a simple motor coupler. The tub seals to were bullet proof. A leaking DD is actually pretty rare. |
Post# 723657 , Reply# 36   12/29/2013 at 10:50 (3,770 days old) by washman (o)   |   | |
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Says he is going to post vids of mods to the fill sometime in the future. CLICK HERE TO GO TO washman's LINK |
Post# 723742 , Reply# 37   12/29/2013 at 20:37 (3,769 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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I don't blame him. The washer is worth its weight in gold.
Just reading the comments, do these really have that many issues with the timers? I will admit Ive read threads on here about AWN532s getting stuck in spin because the motor doesn't start correctly. Kind of why I went for the AWN412 because its simpler, but would you know if the U tube claims are true? |