Thread Number: 50252
Vintage 1956 Fridgidaire Electric range` - $100 (Brighton)
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Post# 724790   1/3/2014 at 17:51 (2,451 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

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Ad: "
First $100 cash takes it! I need it out of my kitchen.

Vintage stove in good working condition. Currently in use. Built by General Motors in Dayton, Ohio. All original, no modifications. Model: RIS-39-57, Serial: 25C 50597. 30"W x 26"D. Everything works except the left front burner and timer/clock. Enamel in excellent condition. I don't have the time to restore it, but it would be easy. Need to sell, make an offer!"

CLICK HERE TO GO TO ovrphil's LINK on Rochester Craigslist

Post# 724794 , Reply# 1   1/3/2014 at 17:57 (2,451 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

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Something tells me a tan Tahoe might be wending its way to Rochester soon!

Post# 724798 , Reply# 2   1/3/2014 at 18:17 (2,451 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

I wonder if this is a Canadian model. It is not a 1957 Imperial 30" according to the list of model #s. RIS 39 56 was a domestic model in 1956. This range combines elements of the 56 and 57 models which sometimes happens in lower models, but this is pretty much TOL as an Imperial, but it is missing the Heat Minder & Speed Heat. That might be by design or modifications over the decades, although if there ever was a Speed Heat, when they replaced the unit and switch, they replaced the spider as well. 1957 was the last year that the Imperial models were TOL. I wonder if it might have been brought across the border. We have seen such interesting Canadian models thanks to our Canadian members. Canada is now sharing Frigid Air of a different kind with us.

Post# 724827 , Reply# 3   1/3/2014 at 19:07 (2,451 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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In 1956, the Canadian models were almost like the US models (except for fuses). Even the porcelain in the ovens was still gray. Canadian ranges had the Speed Heat feature until sometime in 1959. Even my 1959 Custom Imperial still has the Speed Heat and Canadian newspaper ads also talked about the Speed Heat burner (but some 1959 Custom Imperial ranges don't have it and no 1960 ranges have the Speed Heat). The Heat Minder was standard on the same models as in the US lineup until 1961 when the 40" ranges (except Flairs) were discontinued and mid-1962 when the 30" ranges were redesigned (the Heat-Minder was still available on the Imperial and Custom Imperial free-standing ranges, Imperial cooktops and Custom Imperial Flairs ranges). 


According to my documents, the Speed Heat and Heat Minder were deleted on the RIS-39-56 

Post# 724831 , Reply# 4   1/3/2014 at 19:17 (2,451 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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Here are pictures of the tags on the RIS-39-56 in the ad above and from a Canadian RI-39C-56. 

Post# 724841 , Reply# 5   1/3/2014 at 19:31 (2,451 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

So it's just a typo. I should have checked the original ad.

Post# 724890 , Reply# 6   1/3/2014 at 22:14 (2,451 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Maybe if it was in Rochester, MN, I might bite. ;) However, I do like that it lacks Speed Heat and Heat Minder.

Besides, I'm shamefully storing this on the porch at the moment...

Post# 724892 , Reply# 7   1/3/2014 at 22:25 (2,451 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)        

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Ben, I heard there was a dryer in the living room….

Is it intervention time?

Post# 724920 , Reply# 8   1/4/2014 at 02:08 (2,451 days old) by washdaddy (Baltimore)        


I don't know all the facts ....but maybe Ben needed a space heater for the big storm running across the country and got himself a little confused trying to keep himself warm.

(Ducking and running) lol ;)

Post# 724924 , Reply# 9   1/4/2014 at 03:25 (2,451 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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Ben, that's a nice '57 Deluxe! Now this one has the Speed Heat and Heat Minder! Do you know if they still work? Somebody offered me a '57 Imperial but both front burners were converted to regular (I haven't looked to see if they were 3 wire 5 heat or infinite heat type but it was missing 3 knobs and 2 chains and needles for the burners).

Post# 724931 , Reply# 10   1/4/2014 at 04:57 (2,451 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Wrong Rochester, Huh?

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Sorry - didn't check to see which Rochester was in question.

Pretty Frigidaire on your porch, Ben. Besides, you don't really have a problem until you're using a GE 22" Spacemaker as a bedside table.

Everyone knows that. ;-)

Post# 725033 , Reply# 11   1/4/2014 at 14:39 (2,450 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
When I picked up the '57...

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As to be expected, the Speed Heat burner was not working. The Heat Minder did warm up, but I didn't have time to actually test it's Minding abilities. I really want to restore this one and use it for a bit in the kitchen, as I've never had the privilege of using a GM range before. Anyone here happen to have any spare Speed Heat burners and switches?

Yes, I'm trying to stay warm, but that's what the GE double oven Americana is for in the kitchen. ;)


This post was last edited 01/04/2014 at 15:23
Post# 725123 , Reply# 12   1/4/2014 at 21:29 (2,450 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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I had one spare Speed Heat burner but I used it recently to make my '59 range work again. Your range's Heat Minder system seems to be quite complicated compared to the system that was introduced in 1960 (and that was used to convert the 1959 Charcoal range you sold recently which had another complicated system). I did the same with my 1959 CI range.


If your range still has the Speed Heat switch and it has problems, don't throw it away! I replaced the switches on both my 1959 Custom Imperial and my 1968 (US-market) Compact 30 and I had to keep the metal cover, the shaft and the cam for both so the shafts would be the correct length, the original knobs would fit and the switch would work as indicated by the knob/pointer.


The pre-1960 Speed Heat switches started on HIGH like the 5 heat switches and like the early regular infinite switches that were used on some 1958-59 models for the rear burners. The regular infinite switches were redesigned in 1960 but the Speed Heat switches remained almost unchanged through the 1960s.


First test the 6" burner to see if it has conductivity and if it's a 118V (about 10 ohms) or a 236V (over 30 ohms). If the burner has conductivity and shows a resistance value around 10 ohms, you probably don't have to replace the burner itself... When you'll be ready to check that, let me know what you find! I wish I had more Speed Heat parts to help you but I used most of what I had to repair my 1959 range recently (got parts from a US-built cooktop sometime ago on eBay). Speed Heat burners have been available only a few years here 1955 to mid-1959 so it's hard to get parts for these in Canada). 


If you need more information, don't hesitate to email me and I'll try to help!

Post# 725139 , Reply# 13   1/4/2014 at 23:30 (2,450 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Thanks for he tips, Phil! I'll check for continuity of the speed heat burner tomorrow.

When you say you changed the switches over and used some of the original switches parts, were you using a later speed heat switch?


Post# 725140 , Reply# 14   1/5/2014 at 00:50 (2,450 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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Yes I was using a newer Speed Heat switch... There were a few minor changes over the years but I assume that the later ones were improved (I read that somewhere...). But the main difference between the older and newer ones is the cam and the shaft. There were also shorter shafts used in cooktops but the shape of the shaft changed depending on the type of knob and year. 


Replacing the cam in a newer Speed Heat switch will make it operate like the older one (starting on "high" instead of starting on "sim" when you turn the knob clockwise)


I just checked a 236V 6" burner with the ohmmeter and it shows 42 ohms resistance. 

Post# 725229 , Reply# 15   1/5/2014 at 12:55 (2,449 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Speed Heat Burner Parts

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Ben I would likely have the parts you need, let me know when you get into it, John.

Post# 725306 , Reply# 16   1/5/2014 at 16:32 (2,449 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Ah, Phil that makes sense. I checked the burner today and it is open.

John, I'll shoot you a message in a few weeks. I'm hoping to jump into it once the weather warms up.


Post# 773255 , Reply# 17   7/26/2014 at 15:14 (2,247 days old) by cree ()        

I bought the above range that was for sale does anyone know where I can find a clock/timer to replace the one in it that doesn't work...Thank You..Robert


Post# 773279 , Reply# 18   7/26/2014 at 19:24 (2,247 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

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your link - ? goes nowhere. Congrats and someone may be able to help - think about becoming a member, the benefits are much greater.


Post# 773328 , Reply# 19   7/26/2014 at 23:46 (2,247 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        
Welcome to this board!

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Hi Cree,

I'd suggest you to look at what's wrong first. Maybe it's just the rotor that's bad if it's a GE/Telechron. Did you buy the 1956 Imperial or Ben's 1957 Deluxe?

Post# 773362 , Reply# 20   7/27/2014 at 06:52 (2,247 days old) by cree ()        

Thank you for the reply I bought the 1956 Imperial the front burner that didn't work was no problem as it was just a loose wire but the clock timer is a different story.!!

Post# 773364 , Reply# 21   7/27/2014 at 07:06 (2,247 days old) by cree ()        

The only other problem that it had was the fact that the broiler doesn't work but that to is probably the switch other than that its a very well built and working stove.!!!

Post# 773401 , Reply# 22   7/27/2014 at 11:46 (2,246 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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The next time you have to access the back of your range, you should take a picture of your clock.

As for the broiler, you can make a few tests with a multimeter with the range disconnected. The first one would be to see if the broil element is working by testing the continuity between the two connectors with the ohmmeter.

Post# 773567 , Reply# 23   7/28/2014 at 09:27 (2,245 days old) by cree ()        

The difficult part is trying to locate a part number on the c/t as any paper or sticker on the back of it is gone..Thank You...Robert

Post# 773580 , Reply# 24   7/28/2014 at 12:45 (2,245 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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If the timer has a Telechron H3 rotor like this (it could be a different color like copper), that's the first thing to look at.   The last picture shows the rest of the motor with the rotor removed from it. With the motor removed and the rotor still in the motor, you can see if the gear on the rotor rotates or not when you reconnect the range. Just be careful when you do that not to short circuit or to touch any live wire. You can also remove the complete timer assembly and test it on a bench by applying 115 volts to the two wires that go to the clock motor. Just note where all the wires go or take pictures first (that's the reason why I took some pics of this 1958-59 timer).


Some models use different timer movements like Robertshaw Lux Time or Internal Register. I don't know what was used in 1956. 



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