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Thread Number: 50419
Olive green Maytag model ADG608 |
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Post# 726338 , Reply# 1 1/9/2014 at 02:39 (3,759 days old) by d-jones  (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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 I'd be a bit suspicious of this technicians assessment until I had a second opinion. The part number for this motor is 303358 and they can be found at any number of online parts venders. A-1 Appliance has them listed for $173.00, but they can also be found on eBay for 80 to 100 dollars. I've never changed a motor on a DG608, so I don't know how labor intensive the job is or isn't. If it's difficult to access the motor that could account for the high estimate. Still, I'd want confirmation that the motor is actually the problem. Here's a link to A-1 Appliance so you can see how the dryer is put together and find any part numbers you might need. This sort of knowledge is very useful when trying to track down parts.
www.a-1appliance.com/lookup/51959...
And this link will take you to an older thread here on this blog where a DE808 was rebuilt. The DE808 was the top of the line electric machine, and yours is gas, but it's still an 08 series dryer so there'll be a great deal in common with yours.
www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T...
By the way, if you're handy with tools you can save a lot of money by tackling this problem yourselves.
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Post# 726340 , Reply# 2 1/9/2014 at 03:02 (3,759 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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 I have a feeling it may be a bearing issue and not the motor, but give the experts some time to check in here and provide their opinions.
We had a DG806 that did the same thing as yours, but that was before I had discovered this site. It was deemed unfixable, but in hindsight I'll bet it could have been repaired.
That was the best, fastest, quietest, most efficient and easiest to use dryer I've ever owned. Its electronic control worked flawlessly. If your 608 has electronic control (just a dial and no buttons), it is worth saving. Well, even if it doesn't, it's still worth saving.
If it turns out to be the motor, that's probably a quicker and easier fix than the bearings, although more costly if you go with brand new/NOS. You might start keeping an eye out for similar dryers on Craigslist that could have the right motor for harvesting. That would make it a cheap fix.
Stick with it. I'm confident you'll find the help you need here. | ||
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Post# 726469 , Reply# 3 1/9/2014 at 16:14 (3,758 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 726478 , Reply# 4 1/9/2014 at 16:37 (3,758 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN) |
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 To my knowledge, there are no bearings in this dryer except for the ones IN the motor. If it was screeching and now the motor is seized that would be one of the motor bearings (there are 2). I doubt it would be economical to try to get the motor repaired (if that model motor can even be repaired). If you are at all handy you should be able to swap that motor out in a couple of hours time. If you need the service manual let me know. Mark | ||
| Post# 726601 , Reply# 5 1/10/2014 at 03:12 (3,758 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
How could the repair man decide that the motor was bad just by taking the front off. As you face the back of the dryer take the grey motor access cover off. Take note of the convoluted way the belt threads around the pulleys. Take the belt off. Turn the motor shaft. Then go to the front of the dryer, reach in the door and try and turn the tumbler. Which one doesn't want to turn? That should be a clue. I would say turn the machine on for a second, but w/o the belt on, the motor could jerk start and break the fan. And taking the fan off is a whole 'nother ball of wax. You can only run the machine with the fan off for just a second because there's no air flowing through the machine and it will get way too hot in a just a few seconds. Could be dangerous. If you had some alligator clips and knew which terminals to clip on to the motor switch, you could apply 120 to the motor to check it.
The best way to check the motor is to isolate it from the machine and apply power correctly. | ||
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Post# 726718 , Reply# 6 1/10/2014 at 14:29 (3,757 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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About service diagnosis, dryer motors, and replacement parts
Karen and Diego, This thread touches a chord of great interst for me, and I've experienced much of the same, so I'd like to share what I experienced in case you can get any useful insight.
I first found this site through a google search in early January 2008 when my mother's then 3.5 year old GE dishwasher was diagnosed by GE factory service as needing a new motor. The machine was intermittently growling and vibrating, and sounded terrible, but at times it would be fine. The repair price quote was much the same, and my parents went out an purchased a new Kitchenaid model vs. buying a $300 motor for a 3 year old dishwasher. I was skeptical, and simply did not believe the diagnosis was correct, and I put a post out on the board here much like you did. Some knowledgeable people came to the rescue, had heard of the growling dishwasher problem, and had a remedy that needed nothing more than a plastic zip-tie to secure the conduit for the upper wash arm. New motor indeed...the dishwasher has worked fine since, and when we hear that growl again, we know its time to install a new tie. Of course the old motor is still in the machine. My point is that there may be other avenues to try with your dryer vs a three hundred dollar motor, and this service diagnosis may leave something to be desired? As to dryer motors, I have a 1977 built Kenmore dryer that, if it had a car's odometer, would seem to read something like 350,000 miles. It is very well used, but has been in my family for a long time, and with good memories. So, when it has needed things, instead of putting it out at the curb as was suggested, I have made repairs. The most recent was a replacement motor. The old one, which was originally very quiet, got overall louder over the course of a year or so, just a louder hum, louder overall operation. Then it started to make occasional or intermittent scraping sounds, which grew louder and more frequent. I got to the point that I would not go more than a room away from the dryer when it was running. The motor finally locked-up, and would only hum after that, no operation at all. I found a replacment motor, the EXACT duplicate in fact, on ebay. Even though there are lots of Whirlpool substitute motors that would work fine, I was able to find the identical motor for $14.95 used. It took about two or 2.5 hours to make the replacement, I de-linted the dryer again while I was in there, and it returned the dryer to its old quiet self. Plus I'm getting more service from a part that would otherwise have been scrapped with the rest of the machine it was in originally. I don't want to suggest that all used parts and all sellers on ebay are perfect, but I was happier to put a nice low use but used part in my otherwise very used dryer for $15 than spend close to $100 on something brand new. If you feel you can do this repair, and you do indeed need a motor, I would recommend at least looking around on ebay to see what you can find. Good luck! Gordon | ||
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Post# 727200 , Reply# 8 1/12/2014 at 13:05 (3,755 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Squealing MT Dryer
The technician was correct and with your good description of the problem I could have diagnosed this over the phone.
This dryer also has 5 other significant bearings that can and often do produce a squealing sound when they are wearing out, Two rear rollers, Two front bearing slides and an idler pulley, but when you said the machine would no longer starts that quickly narrows it down to a bad main motor. The repair estimate is not bad although a dryer this old may also need some of the other parts I mentioned as well as a new belt, new blower and on a gas dryer while there is no heating element to worry about these do need an igniter or new gas valve coils sometimes. I good way to fix this dryer would using a used motor assembly taken from either a newer dryer dryer or a lower mileage machine. | ||
| Post# 727969 , Reply# 10 1/16/2014 at 01:01 (3,752 days old) by karendiego () | ||
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I found this oil stain under where the motor sits on the base of the machine. Could this be, as some were suggesting, from the motor bearings? 
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Post# 727970 , Reply# 11 1/16/2014 at 01:02 (3,752 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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| Post# 727971 , Reply# 12 1/16/2014 at 01:09 (3,752 days old) by karendiego () | ||
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This is what I found when I opened up the outlet duct: 
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| Post# 727974 , Reply# 14 1/16/2014 at 01:22 (3,752 days old) by karendiego () | ||
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Vacuumed this up from inside the machine. Could anyone tell us whether this is a part on this machine? 
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| Post# 727975 , Reply# 15 1/16/2014 at 01:30 (3,752 days old) by karendiego () | ||
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Tumbler front and bearings. Is it recommended to replace these? 
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| Post# 727977 , Reply# 16 1/16/2014 at 01:32 (3,752 days old) by karendiego () | ||
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Rollers and belt: 
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| Post# 727979 , Reply# 17 1/16/2014 at 01:37 (3,752 days old) by karendiego () | ||
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Inlet, valve, and burner: 
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| Post# 727981 , Reply# 18 1/16/2014 at 01:39 (3,752 days old) by karendiego () | ||
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Motor and pulley: 
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| Post# 727994 , Reply# 20 1/16/2014 at 03:59 (3,752 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
After seeing a picture of that motor around the bearing area, I too am concerned that the motor might indeed be on its way. They can be found! The motor can be used from any similar model that uses it. Such as the DEx08, DEx09, DEx10, DEx12, even the LDE series dryers. Of course the gas versions like DG's and LDG's will work too. Basically when the model numbers started with MDE(G), then Maytag started using a motor that would be incompatible with yours.
The motor number, 303358 (or Y303358) is still quite available. Whirlpool has changed the number to W10410999 but motors under the old number are still around. You'll most likely need to change the blower wheel (Y303836) when you do the motor. The front glides are, of course, changed by themselves. They are 306508. If the Teflon glides have a ton of meat left on them, you'll be ok. If they are thin or wearing thru to the cork backing, replace them! Brian's thread referenced here is really good but the only thing I'll add is that if you replace the glides, the cork AND the blue Teflon strips both tuck thru the little slots and then you attach the pop rivets from the back side. Look at how the old ones are attached first and you'll see what I mean. The drum rollers and belt tensioner pulley, if in good shape could be cleaned and the shafts gently lubed. I highly recommend you use Zoom Spout, a turbine oil, for this. Of course, the belt (Y312959) should be done of cracked or otherwise showing wear. This is, except maybe the motor, what us techs consider just normal wear and tear items. I am very happy you are saving this one. She sure is pretty! RCD 
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| Post# 727995 , Reply# 21 1/16/2014 at 04:01 (3,752 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
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