Thread Number: 50562
Sears Kenmore dryer-gas valve repair
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Post# 727917   1/15/2014 at 19:55 (3,743 days old) by detmed295 ()        

I have an older sears kenmore dryer, Model 110.6957702w10. Everything appears operative except for that it does not heat up. The ignitor does cycle repeatedly but gas does not appear to flow. From all I have read, I suspect that the valve coils may be defective. Can anyone advise me on how to troubleshoot this problem. I have put an ohm meter on the thermostat(s) in the duct heater and blower housing and there is continuity in both. Next to the blower thermostat there is a rod shaped sensor that is connected by bare wire to the modulator(?) on the gas valve surface nearest the front of the machine. I am unsure how to test it. My next step is to remove the gas valve(part number 340710)from the machine. I need some advice about how to proceed after that point. Some guidance would be very much appreciated. I have attached a photo of the valve to this post. Thank you in advance.




Post# 727918 , Reply# 1   1/15/2014 at 20:07 (3,743 days old) by detmed295 ()        
additional diagram

This is the diagram of the valve from Sear's website.

Post# 727923 , Reply# 2   1/15/2014 at 20:35 (3,743 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
1969 KM Gas Dryer

combo52's profile picture
You need to replace the valve coils, all three coils come in a kit from Whirlpool PT# 279137, you may also want to replace the igniter if you still have the round one, as opposed to the newer flat ones.

To replace the valve coils and or the igniter, unplug the electrical connector as seen in your picture, then turn off the gas and loosen and unscrew the pipe union next to the shut-off valve and then remove the two 5/16" screws from the valve bracket that attaches the assembly to the floor of the dryer, also pull the white and blue wires off the heat sensor. Then you can pull the whole assembly out far enough to change the bad parts, Be very careful not to kink or stress the tiny copper tube that is connected to the front of the valve assembly. This is what makes the modulating burner function and if you break it you will be out of luck unless you can find a good used one, as they are NLA.


Post# 727946 , Reply# 3   1/15/2014 at 22:08 (3,743 days old) by detmed295 ()        
thanks

Thank you for the prompt answer! Will give that solution a try.


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