Thread Number: 51248
40's 50's? GE dishwasher/sink in Ohio
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Post# 736303   2/19/2014 at 10:02 (3,689 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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Post# 736318 , Reply# 1   2/19/2014 at 10:58 (3,689 days old) by washdaddy (Baltimore)        

Ad says water won't come out but motor runs and impeller spins. Sounds like it has a pump problem or maybe a clogged up drain line.

Post# 736319 , Reply# 2   2/19/2014 at 11:01 (3,689 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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Just sent the seller a message. I hope he replays soon.

Post# 736333 , Reply# 3   2/19/2014 at 11:47 (3,689 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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Definitely an early to mid 50s model - looks like the last model of pull-out that GE made with a pump driven off the drive motor (which they reverted back to in 1957) - not sure if the motor reversed to pump out at this time... It could well be a clogged hose. Keep us posted!!

Post# 736436 , Reply# 4   2/19/2014 at 19:34 (3,689 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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The seller got back with me they are out of town this weekend. I I'm trying to pick it up on Monday. Wish me luck.
Anthony


Post# 736918 , Reply# 5   2/22/2014 at 01:32 (3,687 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Anthony,

I am guessing this is a model from 1953. GE started using the larger style air gap cover around that time. The first two digits of the serial number will tell you the manufactured year. Message me if you need help with this machine. I am betting the cause of the water not flowing is that the water valve is plugged up. These Dole water valves are fairly easily dissembled, cleaned with lime away or similar, and placed back on the dishwasher. Be sure to bench test it with a standard 110 cord attached to the solenoid wires, and connect water to the inlet side of the valve. Especially before you take the valve apart, you will know if the valve is plugged or not. Proceed accordingly.

Mike


Post# 736939 , Reply# 6   2/22/2014 at 06:45 (3,687 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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Mike,

I was thinking it was from the early half of the 50’s. I will keep you posted on what I find wrong with it and pics. It looks to be in pretty good shape from what I could see.

Anthony


Post# 736977 , Reply# 7   2/22/2014 at 11:15 (3,686 days old) by appnut (TX)        
A money shot

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For history sake. Looks in fairly good shape inside. May be the photo angle, but the lift-out center section looks not perfectly centered, the right side of the top basket looks wider than the left side of the center lift-out section. Then again, the lift-out center section could be placed incorrectly anyway. And I always assumed this was perfectly, symmetrically situated.

Post# 737578 , Reply# 8   2/25/2014 at 12:08 (3,683 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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To Bob and anyone else who might be interested in the early GE Dishwashers:

I am probably one of a very small group of us that is really interested in the engineering changes that GE made in Dishwasher technology between the 1930's and the early 1960's. This approximate 30 year window is of greatest interest to me as a collector, although I am still interested in earlier dishwashers such as Walker, and some dishwashers made after the 1960's.

I am going to include a photo and several scanned images to illustrate some of those changes. I mainly wanted to comment specifically to Bob regarding the orientation of the GE dish racks, but I will try to address other changes too.


This photo shows the racks from a 1949 GE top loading dishwasher. The center Glass Tray rests within the top rack. The top rack rests on tall wire loops in the corners of the bottom rack. This method of stacking the top rack on top of the bottom rack apparently began with the first GE dishwasher models produced around the middle 1930's. GE continued this design up to 1950. Subsequent replies to this thread will show the similarities and changes.

So because the top rack rests on top of the bottom rack, the top rack could be placed in any of four positions with the glass tray orientated: (1) front, (2) left, (3) rear, (4) right. Having observed my own GE dishwashers with Plexiglas lids in place, it is very obvious that the center glass tray area of the upper rack did not get very much water lifted up from the impeller. The sides and corners of the top rack got much more water action. So, based on loading patterns that individual GE dishwasher owners used, if the gasses were not getting properly cleaned, perhaps the top rack might be rotated to one of the other three positions until the best results were observed.

Why did very little water make it to the center glass tray in the top rack? The silverware basket sits right on top of the impeller. The amount of silverware utensils in the basket, would affect the amount of water that could get past and lifted high enough to reach all the way into an inverted glass tumbler. Around 1955, GE changed the rack configuration, redesigning the top rack eliminating the center section completely and redesigning the silverware basket plus raising it a little further above the impeller (see the forth page following this reply).


Mike


Post# 737580 , Reply# 9   2/25/2014 at 12:18 (3,683 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Shown is an illustration representative of the dishwasher models produced in the 1930's. Note the February 1940 date.

This shows the top rack resting on the tall wire loops in the corners of the bottom rack.



Post# 737581 , Reply# 10   2/25/2014 at 12:29 (3,683 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Here is the S-7 Mechanism Parts List. The models produced in 1948 and 1949 used this configuration. Note the top rack still rests on top of the loops of the bottom rack.

Interesting observation here - the food particle filter screen (WD28X2) is shown with the impeller. Yet, I have never found a filter in any of the GE dishwashers in my collection. I believe they were such a nuisance, that GE dealers pulled them before installing the dishwashers in homes.



Post# 737582 , Reply# 11   2/25/2014 at 12:35 (3,683 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Here is an illustration of the S-10 Mechanism, introduced in 1950 Models. The bottom rack has been redesigned. And pin assemblies (WD2X99) have been placed in all four corners for the top rack to rest on.

Note that the filter screen is removed.



Post# 737583 , Reply# 12   2/25/2014 at 12:44 (3,683 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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By the mid-1950's the top rack is totally redesigned.

Also, a regular timer (item #91) is introduced to control start, stop, water fill and drain. The timer replaced the speed reducer controlled Cam and Cam Follower method of controlling the cycle. An external drain pump (item #88) was also introduced.



Post# 737923 , Reply# 13   2/26/2014 at 19:46 (3,682 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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It's at my home now. I will take pics tomorrow and let you know what is wrong with it.

Anthony


Post# 737957 , Reply# 14   2/27/2014 at 01:26 (3,682 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Anthony,

After you give us the model, I will look to see if I have the parts listing for your machine. I don't have the complete list of model/parts pages however.

Mike


Post# 738047 , Reply# 15   2/27/2014 at 13:39 (3,681 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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Post# 738048 , Reply# 16   2/27/2014 at 13:39 (3,681 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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Post# 738049 , Reply# 17   2/27/2014 at 13:40 (3,681 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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Post# 738050 , Reply# 18   2/27/2014 at 13:41 (3,681 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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Post# 738051 , Reply# 19   2/27/2014 at 13:42 (3,681 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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Post# 738052 , Reply# 20   2/27/2014 at 13:43 (3,681 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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Post# 738053 , Reply# 21   2/27/2014 at 13:44 (3,681 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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Post# 738055 , Reply# 22   2/27/2014 at 13:45 (3,681 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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Post# 738080 , Reply# 23   2/27/2014 at 15:01 (3,681 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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Post# 739035 , Reply# 24   3/3/2014 at 15:00 (3,677 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Anthony:

The Model is SE120B
The Serial Number begins with '5320' which translates to Build Year of 1953, 20th week, which translates to the week of May 20 (plus or minus).

Disassemble and clean the pump carefully.

If you haven't already, hook up a hose from the water valve to a faucet and test. If plugged, carefully disassemble and carefully clean the valve filter.

The impeller is really in sad shape. And they are next to impossible to fine new. Generally, one needs to find a donor machine to get a replacement impeller.

The S-10 Mechanism Parts Listing (above) is virtually the same as the S-11 Mechanism used on the SE120B models. I don't have the SE120B listing on paper; I only have it on microfiche.

Mike








Post# 739064 , Reply# 25   3/3/2014 at 16:49 (3,677 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Thank you,

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Mike,
I am in the works of getting a new impeller / geting a mold made to have a new one made. That is grate info to have on hand. I have the pump and water valve cleaned and checked both are working now :)


Post# 739336 , Reply# 26   3/4/2014 at 21:34 (3,676 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Dw after a scrubing and test run but pump seal is leaking :(

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Post# 739337 , Reply# 27   3/4/2014 at 21:52 (3,676 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


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The tub had a 1/4in of lime and calcium on it and the CAL rod had a 1/2on of it!!! Lots of cleaning. But I got it! Now who can help me find a discharge pump seal and discharge pump impeller?

Post# 739393 , Reply# 28   3/5/2014 at 07:19 (3,675 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Pump

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Congrats on the "Electric Sink" which came from my neighborhood.

Here's a link to some inof on my 56 GE dishwasher, the pump is built by Gorman-Rupp, and I sealed mine up with some small 1/4" inch O-rings on each end of the shaft.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO akronman's LINK


Post# 739991 , Reply# 29   3/7/2014 at 04:30 (3,674 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Thank you

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I don't know why I dident do that when I had it apart oh well you know what they say you can't fix stupid!
But it's leak free now :) thank you.



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