Thread Number: 51797
I would love to get my sensitemp to work.
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Post# 741903   3/14/2014 at 17:43 (3,125 days old) by zinniz ()        

Hello, I'm new here. I found your site when searching for information on getting my Sensi-Temp burner to work, and getting my range in better condition.

This range came with my house, and I have loved it from the first time I used it. How can anyone do without a double oven? It is simply fantastic. I'm not sure what year it is, but I would guess late 60s.

What I don't like is that the burners are dodgy. Most of the time I can get the three main burners to work, and for a brief period of 3 or 4 months, the sensi-temp burner started working. But now when I turn it on, there's a hum and the knob vibrates very slightly. It does not get hot.

My Grandpa is a retired appliance repairman, but as he's in his late 80s and 250 miles away, he's no good for an on-site visit. All he told me was "Those sensitemp burners go bad all the time--replace it with a regular burner". My local appliance repair company said there's no way to replace it with a regular burner and they can't get parts to fix it.

I have seen enough posts about these to know that what Grandpa said is true--they do go bad. But I've also seen quite a few that appear to be very promising with the possibility of getting it working again.

I don't have much experience with electrical work, but my husband does have some experience. What would you recommend for the next steps? Any good resources on how to go about this?

Also, the plastic covering the front of the clock is stained with grease on the inside (ugh!). Any tips on how to disassemble and clean? I'm at least happy the clock and timer work, as does my light! If I can get four functional burners I will be a happy camper.

Post# 741909 , Reply# 1   3/14/2014 at 17:55 (3,125 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
There Is Hope!

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The problem with your Sensi-Temp burner is almost certainly the sensor (the part in the center of the burner), or the responder (behind the knob). Given that you're hearing a hum and feeling the knob vibrate, my money would be on the responder. To put things in terms that are perhaps overly simple, the sensor determines the temperature of the pan, and the responder adjusts the temperature to give you what you set. The sensor's job is to tell the responder what is needed.

One member here, John, whose handle is combo52, sometimes has parts for these units. He's going to need to know your range's model number and serial number; both these numbers will be on a metal plate on the frame of the oven door opening. John can also help you diagnose the problem better. Parts also turn up on eBay.

John can probably help you diagnose and repair the problems with your other burners as well. I can see one problem on your right rear burner (the 8-inch unit without Sensi-Temp); the burner looks as if it could have been badly overheated. This often occurs when someone has been cooking on high heat, takes the pot or pan off the burner, and then forgets to turn the burner off.

Your range is a top-of-the-line 40-inch range from about 1972. It originally had a griddle, a rotisserie and a meat probe thermometer. If yours still has all those accessories, you have some real rarities.

The range is very much worth keeping and repairing. You will not find anything on today's market that even begins to approach the quality level of that unit.

Post# 741919 , Reply# 2   3/14/2014 at 18:30 (3,125 days old) by zinniz ()        
Thank you!

Thanks for your help. I will find out the model and serial number and update the thread. Also, I do have the meat thermometer, but not the griddle or rotisserie. I will have to keep an eye out for those accessories second-hand!

As for the rear right burner, I'm amazed you could spot anything wrong in that cell phone photo. I'm sure you are right--As I look at it carefully, the burner does appear to be damaged. I hadn't paid too much attention to it because it does work, but now I can see it should be replaced. Who knows how long it has been that way. I can't think of any time I have overheated it by accident, but this stove has been around longer than I have.

Post# 741928 , Reply# 3   3/14/2014 at 18:51 (3,125 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
It'll All Be Okay....

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Once you have a model and serial number, John can advise you of parts availability and cost. Be aware that Sensi-Temp parts are not cheap, but I have always found John's pricing to be very fair.

John runs a busy appliance repair service in the D.C. area, so it can be a few days before he has time to log on here, scan the threads, and find ones that he needs to look at. Please don't despair; John is a businesslike person and will get to it.

Also, as you look at repair costs on your range, it will be useful to go to your local Home Depot or Lowe's and look at their ranges. Look at the cheapest ones you can find, and you'll be shocked at what these stores are asking for pieces of garbage. When you are totaling up repair costs for your range, they will not be as much as that, and you'll have something worth owning when you're done.

Post# 741937 , Reply# 4   3/14/2014 at 19:21 (3,125 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

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Looking a little more closely at the photo you provided, your range is later than 1972.

In the mid-1970s, the Feds regulated a feature that had been on ranges for a long time - convenience outlets. Those were electric outlets on the backguards of ranges; ranges with automatic ovens like yours usually had two - one regular outlet, and one timed outlet controlled by the automatic oven timer. You could use the timed outlet to start percolators, etc. automatically in the morning.

However, your range does not have these outlets, so that makes it mid-'70s or later, after this feature was regulated out of existence. The Feds felt that stupid people might melt an appliance cord on a hot burner, so they made sure no one could have convenience outlets.

Here's a photo of a slightly earlier range that does have the convenience outlets, at the very bottom of the backguard, under the burner control knobs. The photo is cut off, so only one is in the picture, but there were two on this model:

Post# 741972 , Reply# 5   3/14/2014 at 21:04 (3,125 days old) by zinniz ()        
Model and Serial #

The Model Number is J CP 6800 1 WH
Serial Number: DZ 224927 G

Based on a chart for serial number/manufacture dates, it looks like this puts it at February 1976.

Post# 742016 , Reply# 6   3/15/2014 at 02:05 (3,124 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

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John combo52 will hopefully be along presently. I've also sent him a private message to let him know you're in need of assistance, linking him to this thread.

P.S.: Glad to see you found the GE date decoder and used it by yourself. If you're going to keep vintage appliances running, that kind of initiative really helps.

Post# 742036 , Reply# 7   3/15/2014 at 07:10 (3,124 days old) by robinsondm (Upstate NY)        

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I have a 1966 40-inch GE Range, and the Sensi-Temp feature is definitely worth having. I repaired my Sensi-Temp in 2000, and it has continued to work since then. My range needed both a sensor and a responder, and back in 2000, GE still sold both parts (not any more, unfortunately).


According to, which is usually pretty accurate, your Sensi-Temp sensor is part number WB21X5207. That's the same as on my range. Repairclinic doesn't report your responder part number, but IF it's the same as on my range, that would be WB21X153. That part is available on eBay now. As Sandy mentioned, John (combo52) may also have the parts you need.


Another tip: If you want to confirm the above part numbers, you can call GE Appliance Parts at 1-877-959-8688. For an older range like yours, they may need to look up the part numbers on microfiche, which takes several minutes -- and you may even need to call twice before getting all the information you need -- but this is a helpful service.


Good luck with the repairs, to a fellow owner of a vintage GE range!



Post# 743356 , Reply# 8   3/19/2014 at 19:30 (3,120 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
SenceAtemp burner issues

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Hi Carrie, the most likely failure is the sensor, you can check it by testing the resistance across it, if it is OK you should come up with about 17.5 ohms, if it tests bad and you want to check weather the responder is good just connect the two yellow wires together and the burner will heat at FULL HEAT, it is not a good idea to leave the sensor bypassed [ you will end setting fire to something ]. I do have some good used sensors that I will sell if you find this is all you need and want to try fixing this neat feature, if it were me I would fix it.

It is also fairly easy to install a regular infinite switch on this range and if you do you do not lose the three size burner or the grill feature.

Deans advice is good, your range uses the same sensor that his needed, the responder however would have a different part#.

For the record the Feds had nothing to do with convenience outlets disappearing from ranges. This was done by UL Underwriters Laboratory, which is a private [ non government association ] that is supported by the appliance industry [ and others ].

This was a good regulation and an easy one to get range manufacturers to agree to BECAUSE it saved them MONEY and because everyone dropped the feature at the same time there was no sales disadvantage in eliminating convenience outlets, at the same the push to turn safety controls also became mandatory [ another life saving feature that your range has, both of these features became a UL regulation in 1974.

John L.

Post# 743360 , Reply# 9   3/19/2014 at 19:41 (3,120 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

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I gladly stand corrected on the source of the mandate against convenience outlets, but I will forever wish that it had not happened.

On my present GE J 370 with convenience outlets, I have the happy option of starting my Farberware perc automatically in the morning, without the use of a cluttering plug-in timer. The non-timed outlet also gives me an additional outlet on that side of the kitchen, and outlets are manna from Heaven in houses built when mine was, which was 1950.

I'm glad to hear you think Carrie's problem is the sensor. That's easier to get to and to replace than the responder, at least for us non-pro types. I'm sure either assembly would be a piece of cake for you.

Post# 743368 , Reply# 10   3/19/2014 at 20:22 (3,120 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
Its kind of odd...

Any feature you want, they have removed, anything useless they have added!!!lol!

Post# 743375 , Reply# 11   3/19/2014 at 20:41 (3,120 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Convenience Outlets On Electric Ranges

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Hi Sandy And Hans, yes I agree with both of you, convenience outlets on electric ranges could be very useful in older homes that did not have enough circuits in the kitchen, many a portable dishwasher was run on these outlets along with waffle irons, clothes washers and on and on. The convenience outlets were less useful on gas ranges because they were usually just plugged into the general kitchens wiring, but on an electric range you got a separate dedicated 15 or 20 Amp outlet.

Post# 743380 , Reply# 12   3/19/2014 at 21:05 (3,120 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
I use them for..

The waffle iron/electric frying pan or the electric deep fryer, also the crock pot,they are also great when making 7 minute icing,'portable mixer"..The push to turn knobs spelled the end for pushbuttons, which I always loved.

Post# 743467 , Reply# 13   3/20/2014 at 04:50 (3,119 days old) by robinsondm (Upstate NY)        
Sensor on eBay!

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Carrie (zinniz),


There's a Sensi-Temp sensor on eBay now, for what I think is a good price. Of course, John (combo52) may be able to sell you one at an even better price. I'll leave that up to you and him.


Good luck!



Post# 743471 , Reply# 14   3/20/2014 at 05:17 (3,119 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

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That is an incredible price!

Go gettem, Carrie!

Post# 743483 , Reply# 15   3/20/2014 at 07:08 (3,119 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
GE Sensor

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That is an excellent price, when these went NLA these were nearly $200.00, one of you with this range should get this and if no one wants it I will buy it.

Post# 743510 , Reply# 16   3/20/2014 at 09:04 (3,119 days old) by zinniz ()        
Sensor ordered

Woo hoo! I just got that part on eBay. Even if that's not what's wrong right now, it will be great to have it for future needs.

John--I will test the sensor after work today. I really appreciate your advice!

Post# 743535 , Reply# 17   3/20/2014 at 11:38 (3,119 days old) by zinniz ()        
Probably is the sensor...

I got out my husband's multimeter and I'm seeing 4.7 ohms across the sensor. I also pulled the assembly out and from the looks of it, I would say someone has attempted a repair in the past. I haven't seen a photo of one of these things from the bottom so I can't be sure but it certainly doesn't seem like this is how it should look.

Post# 743554 , Reply# 18   3/20/2014 at 12:57 (3,119 days old) by robinsondm (Upstate NY)        
Gray stuff on sensor

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Great job nabbing that eBay sensor! You're welcome. ;-)

If you're talking about that gray blob on the bottom, when you say the sensor doesn't look normal -- actually, that is normal! I've replaced my Sensi-Temp sensor in the past, and they do have that gray blob of stuff -- I assume it's a high temperature adhesive and/or sealant -- on the bottom.

I just wanted to mention this, so you won't assume something is wrong with your new sensor. Good luck,


Post# 743559 , Reply# 19   3/20/2014 at 13:03 (3,119 days old) by zinniz ()        
Thanks again for the info!


Thanks for letting me know that's normal! I would have figured it out when the new one arrives, but it's good to know the previous owners weren't hacking around with it this time.

Since I started looking into all this, I've replaced the damaged burner in back, and while I was at it got some new drip pans and rings. My stove is looking better than ever and hopefully soon will be running with 4 burners again.


Post# 743621 , Reply# 20   3/20/2014 at 17:16 (3,119 days old) by Drewbiz ()        
I also have a question. about the sensitemp.

Hi guys,

I'm new to the forum. I just found it. I have been trying to find more info on my 40" GE P7. Mine has the knobs and no buttons. I think it is from the early 70s. It is Avocado colored and my wife hates it and wants to get rid of it. I love it and want to repair the little things that are wrong and get another 40 + years out of it. I have used the sensitemp burner because the other 8" burner stopped working. I just got a replacement 8" burner to fix that. The sensitemp burner works well still, but sometimes it gets to temperature and cuts off, but doesn't come back on. could that be an issue with the sensor or the type of cookware? Also, I plan on replacing the 8" burner and cleaning the area under the top, but I am having trouble getting the top off. Is there a latch or magic button?


Post# 743679 , Reply# 21   3/20/2014 at 19:26 (3,119 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
SenceAtemp burner issues

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Hi Drew, it is important that the cookware be flat and most importantly the center of the pan must be in good contact with the sensor for proper operation.

Keep in mind when cooking on these Calrod style surface elements, and you are using high heat, THE ELEMENT SHOULD NEVER GLOW RED HOT, if it does you need better cookware, this is true of any electric range with conventional elements.

Drew it is fairly difficult to remove the cook-top on your range, it is usually best to just clean through the burner openings.

Post# 743687 , Reply# 22   3/20/2014 at 19:41 (3,119 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

danemodsandy's profile picture
John combo52 is The Expert here when it comes to GE range repair - he knows stuff about GE ranges that GE has forgotten.

So, if you see advice from him, he's someone who knows what he's talking about.

Post# 743693 , Reply# 23   3/20/2014 at 19:51 (3,119 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
GE Recommended

Medium weight aluminum cookware for best operation of the Sensi Temp, they stated in the owners manual to use a lower than normal temperature for other, stainless or iron.Some people are afraid of aluminum these days, but it really does respond quickest to heat changes.

Post# 743699 , Reply# 24   3/20/2014 at 20:02 (3,119 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Oh, and Drew:

danemodsandy's profile picture
The full GE instruction manual for Sensi-Temp burners is available from's "sister" site, Automatic Ephemera. It gives full instructions and cookware recommendations. It is available for paid download, at only $1.99. The download comes to you in PDF (Adobe Reader) format, in the most amazingly high-quality scans you ever saw. Automatic Ephemera accepts PayPal.

The link to the Sensi-Temp instruction book is:

Post# 743836 , Reply# 25   3/21/2014 at 09:25 (3,118 days old) by Drewbiz ()        
Thanks for the good info!

Thank you all for the good info. I am going to order the sensi temp manual and the owners manual they have. This forum is very helpful.

Post# 744145 , Reply# 26   3/22/2014 at 12:35 (3,117 days old) by zinniz ()        
It worked!!!

My new sensor arrived in the mail today! It only took a few minutes to install and I have a working burner!! I tested it on a medium boil and I can not wait to "Get to know" my sensitemp better. I am kicking myself for listening to the repair guy who said nothing could be done.

You guys are amazing! I am ever so thankful.

Here's my new sensor in action, burning off years of gunk as it heats up some water.

Post# 744162 , Reply# 27   3/22/2014 at 13:53 (3,117 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
You GO, Carrie!

danemodsandy's profile picture
I am so glad to hear - and see - that your range is looking and working great, ready for a few more decades of culinary adventures.

In case you do not have it, the GE Sensi-Temp instruction manual is a must, because Sensi-Temp doesn't work exactly like many people think it does. A lot of people try to use it strictly with the temperature settings, when in fact you need to use the "Boil" settings when cooking with liquids. And it never needs to be cranked up red-hot, as John combo52 mentions above.

Again, the Sensi-Temp guide can be downloaded from Automatic Ephemera for only $1.99. Robert, the owner of this site, runs AE as well. A link directly to the page for the Sensi-Temp guide is below.

Again, congratulations on your first vintage appliance "save," and I am willing to bet there are more in your future! Glad we could help.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO danemodsandy's LINK

Post# 744166 , Reply# 28   3/22/2014 at 13:58 (3,117 days old) by robinsondm (Upstate NY)        
Way to go, Carrie!

robinsondm's profile picture

Congratulations on the successful repair! Where there's a will, there's a way, especially with this forum here to help. Have fun using your Sensi-Temp burner!



Post# 744568 , Reply# 29   3/23/2014 at 18:32 (3,116 days old) by zinniz ()        
Sensi-Temp Guide


Thanks for the link! I got it downloaded and love the anthropomorphic illustrations in it. I learned a lot from the booklet. It's definitely a must-have for anyone with one of these burners.


Post# 744573 , Reply# 30   3/23/2014 at 18:51 (3,116 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

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Glad you like the Sensi-Temp guide! The cookware drawings in the book are of a Wear-Ever line of cookware called Hallite, which turns up a lot in thrift stores and on eBay. I keep meaning to nab a couple of pieces and see if it's any better on the Sensi-Temp than my aluminum-clad Farberware.

Not that anyone's going to pry me away from my Farberware, you understand....

Post# 744749 , Reply# 31   3/24/2014 at 09:22 (3,115 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama)        

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Hi Carrie,

I'm Sarah. I love seeing your range and have enjoyed this discussion about the Sensi-Temp burner. I have a Hotpoint with Hotpoint's version of the Sensi-Temp and hope to take on fixing it sometime in the not so distant future. I love your analog clocks. Mine has the mechanical digital clock, but it was a major upgrade from the 30" Kenmore with the rusted through oven liner, so I bought it especially since the large oven is self cleaning.

Glad you found AW. I agree with Sandy, once you successfully repair an old appliance, it is hard to resist taking on another.


Post# 744760 , Reply# 32   3/24/2014 at 09:50 (3,115 days old) by zinniz ()        
Speaking of Hotpoint...

Hi Sarah,

Good luck with fixing your Hotpoint! It's funny that you mention you have the Hotpoint version. When I was working on my stove, I noticed that the part box had both brands listed on it, and I had wondered if they existed on Hotpoint ranges too.


Post# 789419 , Reply# 33   10/17/2014 at 01:14 (2,908 days old) by Julie ()        
Just got mine working....

I love, love, love it! I have a gorgeous 1969 model. I had to run new electric service for it, as I had hookups for a propane oven. So I just got all that done, and after reading here, realized my sensi temp sensor is also not working. Everything else does. I have the original griddle and it is in almost perfect condition. I don't have the probe, sad face, but this range is immaculate, inside and out. Even the back is clean, without built up grease, etc. I feel VERY lucky to have come across it.

Some things I need are the drip pans, sensor and probe. If anyone has these, I would be eternally grateful! If no sensor is available, I would love to know how I can make that burner function without one. Someone tried replacing the pans, but the coils don't fit on top of them, since they aren't notched. I haven't been able to find the correct item replacement for them. I am so glad I found this forum and thread!

Any help is greatly appreciated!

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Post# 789433 , Reply# 34   10/17/2014 at 05:50 (2,908 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

danemodsandy's profile picture
Welcome to

John combo52 is the GE expert around here, so I'll let him advise you on the repairs. Your range is well worth saving. It's from around 1972, as can be seen from the rotary controls and the convenience outlets on the control panel.

Nice range!

Post# 789456 , Reply# 35   10/17/2014 at 10:03 (2,908 days old) by Julie ()        

Yes, it is awesome! It is a 1969 model, I looked it up. It also has the electrical outlets. I will try to patiently wait on John. Thanks for your response!

Post# 846214 , Reply# 36   10/17/2015 at 12:52 (2,543 days old) by craigl ()        

I also have a 40" GE range with a sensitemp burner that is not working. GE no longer seems to sell the parts but I understand one of the members here may have parts available? I would be interested in pricing. The range is a 1978 model (jcp68ow1wh)

It does not seem to matter what position the power saver switch is in, there is a slight amount of heat from the burner if you turn on the switch, but never gets hot. I hear a low hum when the burner is on, but no vibration.

Post# 846234 , Reply# 37   10/17/2015 at 15:15 (2,543 days old) by sel8207 (naples, florida 34117)        
sensi temp repair

I also have the situation where the sense temp burner starts to get warm for a few seconds, then shuts off. I also hear a slight buzzing or humming noise coming from the responder unit (that's the temp setting control on the dash of the stove). Mine is the older ten ohm sensor model. The sensor is located in the middle of the burner. I actually don't think anything is wrong with that, but there is also a relay inside the responder unit which I believe could be causing the problem. Newer units were, I believe, upgraded to a 17 ohm sensor along with other changes. A replacement responder unit might still be available. Mine is not, it's from a 1961 stove, but there is surely somebody here who can help you with your stove. The only information I could ever find was from a G.E technical talk manual, which said something to the effect that when they checked the parts that were removed, the sensor turned out to be fine, and that it was the responder that needed to be replaced. Other members here have stated that they believe it's usually the sensor that's the cause of the problem. There is a check out sequence to troubleshooting these units, but I don't have it available to post right now. Hopefully, somebody with more electrical experience than me will give you some information and assist you. Good luck. Les

Post# 846243 , Reply# 38   10/17/2015 at 16:20 (2,543 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
Sensi Temp

Was a great feature.....WHEN it worked, unfortunately I have never seen one that did work, as many old stoves as I have had down thru the years, only the ones that were on gas ranges worked, and they were great.

Post# 904240 , Reply# 39   10/25/2016 at 11:59 (2,169 days old) by hshanks (Brigham City, Utah)        

I am glad to have found this forum.

We have a GE sensi-temp range in excellent condition and everything works except the sensi-temp burner. We used it to bottle grape juice this last week-end.

Our unit appears to have been manufactured in January 1970 - or January 1954 based on model and serial numbers and using the GE Date Decoder. I am guessing earlier than 1970 because pictures above for a 1969 model show dial controls. Our unit has pushbutton controls for all of the burners but with a dial temperature control for the sensi-temp burner. (I graduated from high school in 1969 and I am pretty sure I remember having the unit for some years before that.)

Could this unit really have been made in 1954?

Model # J485A1WH
Serial # AL00079

Unfortunately I am not able to provide a picture at this time because the unit is in another location.

Visually it appears that the sensor unit is damaged. Are replacement sensors still available through John? Nothing appears to be available on eBay now.

This thread seems to have gone "cold" with the most recent entry before mine almost exactly one year ago.

I would appreciate any help that could be provided to fix the sensi-temp burner on this awesome range.

Post# 908074 , Reply# 40   11/22/2016 at 15:42 (2,141 days old) by hginvt (Boston)        

I have a vintage GE stove, circa 1963, and I also am looking for a sensor.

Model #J 346 14711.

Anyone have one or could you point me to one?

Thanks in advance.

Post# 908078 , Reply# 41   11/22/2016 at 16:22 (2,141 days old) by ken (NYS)        

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First automatic GE burner was the hydraulic controlled "Automatic Calrod". Around 1960, I believe, it was changed to an electric control and renamed "Sensi-temp". The first Sensi-temp used a different sensor than later Sensi-temp. I don't know what year that change was made. The part number for the second style is WB21X5207 and has yellow leads. Im sure someone here knows year of change and part number for the earlier sensor.

Best bet is to look on ebay. I got one there earlier this year. They are usually quite expensive but keep watching and eventually one will be listed at a "reasonable" price. You can follow a search and ebay will email you an alert when one is listed.

Look at this old thread for a picture of one version of electric sensor. Its referred to as being the earlier one. Looks like it had white leads.

Post# 924327 , Reply# 42   3/1/2017 at 07:38 (2,042 days old) by nikita (Kingston)        
looking for GE sensi temp part # WB21X5207

my sensi temp needs to be replaced GE part # WB21X5207. any ideas? i checked ebay and online w/ no luck. thank you!

Post# 924357 , Reply# 43   3/1/2017 at 11:28 (2,042 days old) by sel8207 (naples, florida 34117)        
sensor or responder unit?

is that the sensi temp sensor unit (in the middle of the burner), or the responder unit (which is in the console)? Maybe posting a pic of the stove would give an idea of the year? I can remember reading somewhere at this site, some communication between the techs in the field who were repairing them, then sending in the parts for testing, and the company finding out that the sensor unit in the middle of the burner was rarely the problem. It was usually the responder unit, in the console. I did see a responder unit on eBay recently, for 89$. Don't know what year it is for though. On eBay search you can type in 'vintage General Electric' and see what comes up. Good luck to you. Les

Post# 924391 , Reply# 44   3/1/2017 at 17:22 (2,042 days old) by nikita (Kingston)        
looking for GE sensi temp part # WB21X5207

my husband read this thread and he tried to test it and he concluded that it was the sensi temp. here is a picture, we believe the stove is around the year 1965? the GE model # is GAL19289. i did try an ebay and internet search w/ no luck so far.

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Post# 924420 , Reply# 45   3/1/2017 at 20:10 (2,042 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Non Heating Sensatemp Burners

combo52's profile picture

70-80% of the time the sensor is bad, Part # WB21X5207 is the sensor that was used on all GE STBs after around 1962-the mid 80s when GE discontinued this wonderful feature.


The other 20-30% of the time you either have a bad transformer or responder. In rare cases you may have a broken wire where the wires connect to the element and even more rarely you could have a bad element. The elements seldom failed on STBs because the sensor system protected the element from the overheating abuse that many users of electric ranges put the surface elements through by running them red hot with warped or too small a pan on larger elements.


John L.

Post# 924540 , Reply# 46   3/2/2017 at 17:19 (2,041 days old) by nikita (Kingston)        
non-heating sensitemp burner

John (combo52),

my husband isolated sensitemp sensor, checked continuity and there was none.

do you know where we can get one of these or do you have one for sale? i have checked ebay and online with no luck.

thank you and take care.

Post# 924569 , Reply# 47   3/2/2017 at 22:16 (2,041 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

Hi Sirena, thanks for asking but unfortunately we have exhausted our supply of these sensors at this time. They were used for a long time so if you keep checking on line you may find a good new or used one. Two weeks ago I was working on one of our customers ranges that had a bad sensor and I converted to a regular infinite switch.



Post# 924606 , Reply# 48   3/3/2017 at 07:32 (2,040 days old) by nikita (Kingston)        

thank you john - combo 52. i am so sad...this stove has been in the family for 50 yrs! is it expensive to convert to a regular burner?

Post# 925115 , Reply# 49   3/5/2017 at 13:27 (2,038 days old) by Janit (Richmond)        

Combo 52,

What are you referring to when you said you converted a unit to a regular infinite switch? My sensor is out on my stove. The last time I replaced it GE still had the part available. They show up on eBay but are pricey.


Post# 925158 , Reply# 50   3/5/2017 at 16:11 (2,038 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

You can install a regular infinite switch in place of the responder control and the burner will work like a newer range.


GE had a kit to do this on any ST burner range they ever made, I dough that the kit is still available but any good tech can install a regular inf Sw kit in about 30 minutes so you will still have full use of the burner.

Post# 925244 , Reply# 51   3/6/2017 at 06:24 (2,037 days old) by Janit (Richmond)        

Excellent! Thanks combo 52.

Post# 960036 , Reply# 52   10/1/2017 at 13:42 (1,828 days old) by LaWood (Milwaukee, WI)        
Looking to sell my GE P7 40" range

Hello - I am remodeling my kitchen and am looking to sell my vintage GE P7 40" range. The model/serial number tag is only partly legible. All I can see is J CP 68. Looking at the first post above, my range looks identical. Can I assume that it is also from 1976? The kitchen was last remodeled in 1952, but based on what I find online, it doesn't look like an early 1950's model. Also, any idea on how to reach people who would be interested in it? The main oven works well, including the self-clean feature. All burners work, but the Sensi-temp burner is wobbly. There are two heating elements in the smaller oven, the top one works but the bottom one does not. Thank you for any info you can provide!

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size
Post# 960099 , Reply# 53   10/1/2017 at 19:34 (1,828 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
That's a beautiful stove.

panthera's profile picture

The thermostatically controlled burners prior to induction were all (at least in my experience and that of everyone I know, whether in the US or Europe) next door to useless. At best.

I'd not worry about it. The bottom heating element is not going to be too hard to find.

I'm too far away, but, gosh - it sure is pretty.

Post# 960105 , Reply# 54   10/1/2017 at 20:08 (1,828 days old) by ken (NYS)        

ken's profile picture
This link will take you to GE's site showing the chart to date your range. The first two letters in the Serial number designates the month and year of manufacture.


Post# 960115 , Reply# 55   10/1/2017 at 21:44 (1,828 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
GE Sensi-Temp Burner

combo52's profile picture

Was one of the best features of these great ranges, the only time we found customers that did not like this feature was when people had no mechanical sense and never read how to use it.


You could not only cook almost anything with just one initial setting of the dial including baking a cake or even baking things like potatoes in a regular sauce pan with out a lid or water in the pan.


Your element that is not sitting level is easy to fix, it looks like the drip pan is sitting on the trim ring [ it is supposed to sit in the opening of the white cook-top and then the chrome ring sits above ] Also if the burner does not drop all the way to a level position the pivot stop needs a drop of oil.


John L.

Post# 960185 , Reply# 56   10/2/2017 at 08:56 (1,827 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        

panthera's profile picture

I don't question that the sensi-temp under ideal conditions worked well. At least when the entire system was running.

Just - the restrictions were considerable as to material, size, etc.

I'm old enough to have used many variations on the system, here and in Europe and, well - let's be fair here - given that it's not the least bit unusual for a regular burner/control to run without adjustment or repair for over 50 years, how long does one get from a temperature controlled unit before there's this, that or the other major problem? Two years? Five? It sure as heck isn't long, not compared to how the indirect controls last.

Post# 960319 , Reply# 57   10/2/2017 at 22:52 (1,827 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
GE Sensi-Temp Burners

combo52's profile picture

Do not have to be used under ideal conditions, I use glass and cast-iron cook ware on mine, and they are actually more durable than non heat controlled elements, in fact I have NEVER seen a bad element on a GE ST element, because it is hard to abuse a heat controlled element the elements are not stressed and never burn out and warp.


The hydraulic controlled elements that were used on European and many US electric and GAS ranges alike almost never failed in the life of a range, I have no idea of where this 3-5 year life crap comes from Keven but they haven't even built many of the controlled elements we are talking about since the 70s and into the 80s and I never saw any that only lasted 3-5 years, I don't know where you come up with this crap.


John L.

Post# 971310 , Reply# 58   12/3/2017 at 15:43 (1,765 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        
Sensi temp trouble

I recently replaced the sensor but the burner will not work. I disconnected the sensor and connected the leads and it works on high temp without sensor... all the buttons work..did I get a bad sensor?

Post# 971325 , Reply# 59   12/3/2017 at 17:27 (1,765 days old) by speedqueen (Harrison Twp, Michigan)        

speedqueen's profile picture
I believe there was a mention of using an ohm meter across the sensor and that it should read about 17.5 ohms. With that info, I am sure John(combo52), our resident expert, could help.

Post# 971330 , Reply# 60   12/3/2017 at 17:57 (1,765 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        

OK...I've noticed he is the person to talk to..I've gotten more information from this site than any other. To add to the my confusion is the wiring diagram...that's where I had to's helpful but wires from the sensor to the responder don't look right

Post# 971331 , Reply# 61   12/3/2017 at 18:06 (1,765 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)        

spacepig's profile picture
Where did you get your sensor replacement?

Post# 971341 , Reply# 62   12/3/2017 at 19:15 (1,765 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        


Post# 971350 , Reply# 63   12/3/2017 at 20:17 (1,765 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)        

spacepig's profile picture
What part number? 5207?

Post# 971353 , Reply# 64   12/3/2017 at 20:39 (1,765 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        

Yes wb21x5207

Post# 971409 , Reply# 65   12/4/2017 at 06:32 (1,764 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)        

spacepig's profile picture
Thanks for the reply. The sensi-temp ("automatic calrod" on mine) has never worked since we got our 1958 GE. I was wondering if 5207 would work or not.

Post# 971413 , Reply# 66   12/4/2017 at 06:37 (1,764 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

The sensor as mentioned should be around 17.5 ohms at room temp, if you want to check the entire sensor circuit check for 17.5 ohms at te responder control with one of the yellow sensor wires disconnected from the responder [ and the range unplugged of course ]


John L.

Post# 971466 , Reply# 67   12/4/2017 at 11:10 (1,764 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        

Thanks John..does the sensor connect directly to the responder? Also do the T S T S connections on the responder mean T for transformer and S for sensor?

Post# 971477 , Reply# 68   12/4/2017 at 11:55 (1,764 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        

Hey spacepig I would suggest buying parts based on the model number or if you know the part number.I purchased my based on it looked the same it was a a perfect fit but that doesn't mean it will work. I have yet to find my model number even exists

Post# 971545 , Reply# 69   12/4/2017 at 18:33 (1,764 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)        

spacepig's profile picture
I do have the GE parts manual downloaded from the ephemera, and I usually check it against part numbers of the e-bay sensors. So far, no match on the part numbers.
I would even be ok with losing the sensi-temp and putting a regular burner/coil there, but that looks a lot more complex than it sounds (at least to us since we don't know what we're doing).

Post# 971571 , Reply# 70   12/4/2017 at 20:37 (1,764 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        

I know I wouldn't attempt changing over to an infinite switch either...what was the sensor number you are looking for?

Post# 972153 , Reply# 71   12/7/2017 at 13:55 (1,761 days old) by DocG (Michigan)        

I know this is an old thread but I am looking for a burner too...

Post# 972213 , Reply# 72   12/7/2017 at 19:43 (1,761 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

There are lots of the 3 size 8" burners available, I have good used and new ones alike that I will sell. I do not have any sensors left for them however.


New ones may still be available from GE, We sell good used ones for 1/2 of the new price.


John L.

Post# 972408 , Reply# 73   12/8/2017 at 17:03 (1,760 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        
Sensi temp trouble

When I disconnect the sensor and then connect the leads and the burner works does that mean the responder and transformer are good?

Gary C.

Post# 973165 , Reply# 74   12/12/2017 at 04:31 (1,756 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        
Sensi temp trouble

Can the sensor be tested right out of the box or does it need to be tested through the responder?

Gary C.

Post# 973198 , Reply# 75   12/12/2017 at 09:09 (1,756 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture
Yes it should read around 17.5 ohms at room temperature.

Post# 973517 , Reply# 76   12/13/2017 at 19:18 (1,755 days old) by sel8207 (naples, florida 34117)        
are you sure?

Mine is a 1961 model stove with a sensi temp and the sensor is rated at 10 ohms. Wouldn't the earlier models be the same rating also. Then later on they changed to a 17.5 ohm sensor. His is about a 57' model I think. Les.

Post# 973540 , Reply# 77   12/13/2017 at 20:36 (1,755 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        
Sensi temp trouble

Thanks for the info John L. I think I have this sensi temp issue down to a bad responder. If I could find a fixed temp push button switch like my other three I would just change it to a fixed temp burner. So if anyone comes across a GE switch wb23x55 let me know.

Gary C.

Post# 975638 , Reply# 78   12/26/2017 at 22:18 (1,742 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        
Sensi temp trouble

Well the new responder didn't help...the new sensor must be bad ...I'm only getting about 10 ohms...the transformer is good so I don't know what else it could be.

Gary C.

Post# 975649 , Reply# 79   12/26/2017 at 23:37 (1,741 days old) by speedqueen (Harrison Twp, Michigan)        

speedqueen's profile picture
It looks as though you have only one option left at this point. Before you go spend more money on another sensor, check for continuity and resistance on all connections and if necessary clean contacts, just for good measure. You don't want to throw parts at is if it could be as simple as a dirty connection or open wire. As the resistors and phenolic terminal strips under the high voltage cage on my 1964 RCA color TV have told me, heat isn't kind to electronics and wires.

Post# 975708 , Reply# 80   12/27/2017 at 08:37 (1,741 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Reply 78

combo52's profile picture

What is the age of your range ?, You might have already posted the model #, but I do not have time to go back and reread all the posts for it.


The older GE ranges had a 10 ohm sensor, these had white wires, by the mid 60s they used a 17.5 ohm sensor with yellow leads, these two sensors are not interchangeable.


One should always check for broken or disconnected wires, however dirty contacts have never been a problem on senceatemp system on GE ranges either in the sensor circuit and certainly not in the 120 and 240 volt  circuits.


John L.

Post# 975895 , Reply# 81   12/28/2017 at 14:05 (1,740 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        

Hey John the model number is J797C2WH serial number CZ92220..I contacted GE and was told the serial number should have 6 numbers so only guessed at it being a 1976..I think it's early 70s or late 60s because it has the convenience outlets. The old sensor had 17.5 ohms stamped on it..yellow leads but at some point are spliced to white leads that connect to the responder..I checked the continuity and there is from the yellow to the white...the other 2 yellow leads go to the transformer and they put out 12 volts...the voltage is good at the responder coming out to the surface element is good..the push-button switch has power....the responder is new...when I disconnect the sensor and connect the leads together and the burner comes on..high temp only..the switch changes the 4-6-8-grill settings...let me know what you think about what's going and I appreciate the response

Gary Cooper

Post# 975909 , Reply# 82   12/28/2017 at 18:21 (1,740 days old) by sel8207 (naples, florida 34117)        
burner on high

All sense temps run on full blast; Until... the sensor tells the responder to "shut down" , you just passed the desired or 'dialed in temperature'. If you do not have a pot with say some water in it, on the sensi-temp burner, the burner will continuously run 'full blast'. There is nothing on top of the sensor getting hot enough to make the sensor tell the responder to shut off. Once the pot cools and drops slightly below the dialed in temp, the sensor tells the responder, ok, turn back on. It waffles just above, then below the temp selected. That's a rough explanation of how it works IMO. Les. (someone correct me if I'm wrong. )

Post# 975928 , Reply# 83   12/28/2017 at 22:36 (1,740 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        
Reply# 82

Mine doesn't come on at all with the sensor connected...when I disconnect the sensor and connect the leads together that run to the responder then it comes on high and stays on high because the sensor has been bypassed.

Post# 975949 , Reply# 84   12/29/2017 at 06:20 (1,739 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

Hi Gary, you can test the sensor circuit and wiring by testing for 17.5 ohms at the responder, remove the two wires from the responder from terminals marked S and test across these two wires for 17.5 ohms. If you are getting 10 ohms you either got a bad sensor or the wrong one, does yours have white or yellow leads ?


John L.

Post# 976024 , Reply# 85   12/29/2017 at 16:00 (1,739 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        

Hey John I have it disconnected from the range and in the box...I just tested it right out of box at 15 ohms and climbing at a temp of 70 degrees. The leads are yellow and the leads on the sensor I removed were yellow but are white at the responder. That's kinda that normal?

Post# 976027 , Reply# 86   12/29/2017 at 16:22 (1,739 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        

John the wiring diagram and schematic says it should be 17.5 ohms but at also shows that wires that run from the responder to where it connects to the sensor wires are white ...the there is a c circled which I guess means connection to the sensor

Gary Cooper

Post# 976034 , Reply# 87   12/29/2017 at 17:24 (1,739 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        

Hey John to answer your question if the leads are yellow or white..I have both lol yellow on the sensor end and white one the responder end..I know it worked like this for years and I guess the white leads where put on there to avoid confusion having 4 yellow wires at the responder..also I did test the ohms from the responder end and got about the same as out of the box test..if the ohms should be just a steady 17.5 at room temperature the there's are problem because my reading is not stable it just keeps going up and down ..I guess temperature changes make it do that.Does the proper resistance in the sensor what makes the element come to start with ? and why does it come on when I disconnect the sensor and connect the responder leads together?

Post# 977754 , Reply# 88   1/10/2018 at 10:59 (1,727 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)        
Sensi temp trouble

Purchased another sensor and the ohms were 17.5 hooked it up now working. Obviously the first sensor I bought was defective...ohm readings were all over the place. Next project is the clock and timers.

Gary Cooper

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