Thread Number: 52981
Modern Washers- Select Hot and get Warm- Are they all this way?
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Post# 753359   4/28/2014 at 07:59 (3,648 days old) by ken (NYS)        

ken's profile picture
So I put my sisters 5 yr old Maytag TL back in the laundry room yesterday while the GE is temporarily out of commission. I decided to run it through a cycle to clean it and also as a test run.

She never liked the way it filled for the wash by alternating between cold and hot water. I noticed yesterday that even when selecting Hot it still did the cold/hot water mixing.

Are all new washers made to do this? Are there any still made that fill with Hot when you select Hot?





Post# 753361 , Reply# 1   4/28/2014 at 08:17 (3,647 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        

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no modern washers today have dumb down water temp so if you select warm water chance are you might also get cold water as well i think they are doing this to avoid damaging the fabric of clothes i think the only way you could get true hot water would be if your sister bough a vintage washer like this one.

Post# 753364 , Reply# 2   4/28/2014 at 08:22 (3,647 days old) by Mich (Hells Kitchen - New York)        
IRRC

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Speed Queen, doesn't do the whole dumbing down of wash temps, or water levels.


Post# 753382 , Reply# 3   4/28/2014 at 10:12 (3,647 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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SQ doesn't use an auto-temp sort of unit to control temps, BUT, is you select HOT, you will get what your water heater temp is, thats the good side, the bad, is Warm is a 40/60 mix of HOT and COLD....but there are a few resolves, let the machine fill 1/3 with HOT, and then select WARM.....or drill out the water valve on the HOT side to match the COLD side for an equal true WARM temp...

some newer machines we can bypass, or get around, some we can't....some people don't even think to check...this dubbed down is for energy savings more than anything else...

the original thought of auto-temp control was to boost COLD water to make it warmer, so detergents disolved and activated, rather than washing in ICY cold temps...and getting poor results...

SQ TL highest water level from the factory is only 3/4 of the tub....which we can still increase if we choose...

one of the last machines made today that still allow us to make a few alterations to our liking...


Post# 753396 , Reply# 4   4/28/2014 at 11:25 (3,647 days old) by roscoe62 (Canada)        
@ Yogitunes

I could drill this hot side of the water valve, but the machine is new and I'm afraid of damaging the machine and voiding the warranty also the screen on each side looks like it is inside meaning I'd have to remove the water valve from the unit to do the drilling, if that makes sense?
Hot water is warm at best, so to have a warm water wash I'd have to use the sanitary cycle and settle for hot water and longer wash times, seems there is no happy medium.


Post# 753407 , Reply# 5   4/28/2014 at 12:00 (3,647 days old) by ken (NYS)        

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If you dont already have install a shut off valve on the cold water feed and adjust accordingly to give the temp of wash water you desire.

Even though our 1993 GE doesnt have dumbed down factory valves I do this all the time to adj the wash temp when I want warmer warm but dont want to select hot setting on the control.


Post# 753412 , Reply# 6   4/28/2014 at 12:18 (3,647 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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Roscoe....it wont void your warranty, in fact they wont even know you did it, also a fact, they will send a guy out to adjust your water level if you are not happy with the lowered level...just call and ask for it be raised.....for my SQ, I did it while still on the machine, but you have to feel comfortable in doing this, takes all of 10 minutes, start to finish....

Ken, another thing about a GE filterflo, and probably a few others, I took out the restrictor in the valve for a faster full flow fill....

each machine reacts differntly to adjustments, and even turning the COLD water faucet down, it can add more HOT water, at the same time, certain fills during the cycle are timed, and then your stuck with a low water pressure of not filling properly for the rinses.....they get you coming and going...

like you said, you have to find a happy medium.....


Post# 753415 , Reply# 7   4/28/2014 at 12:20 (3,647 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        

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If you attach the cold water feed to the laundry sink tap, you have full control, enough to get tank hot tap water exclusively as well as medium or hot OR COOL rinses if that suits your fancy.  That's how the LG is set up here.  Really makes you happy and satisfied to control the water temp.


Post# 753416 , Reply# 8   4/28/2014 at 12:22 (3,647 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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heck....even some machines detect that theres no water to either valve, and will shut down or not work at all...so you can't even fool it if you turned the COLD side off for the wash portion....

I know of some people who only hook their machine to cold water only, and cap off the hot side, a lot of these newer models wont function for them.....and not even sure if they could put in a "Y" and run both from the cold faucet....

they have some pretty odd operations installed on some machines...


Post# 753474 , Reply# 9   4/28/2014 at 16:12 (3,647 days old) by frontloaderfan (Merrimac valley, MA)        

frontloaderfan's profile picture
I had to unplug my washer's automatic temperature control sensor in order to get truly hot and warm water. It would always use lukewarm on either the hot or warm setting.
A word of advice: Stay away from the "Normal" cycle. This one is programmed to use almost nothing but cold water, at least on my 2012 Frigidaire front loader. Even with the ATC disabled, if the "Normal" cycle is selected and the "hot" water temp is activated, the machine will fill for the first 5 seconds with hot water, then switch to cold for the remainder of the fill, effectively reducing the wash temp to "cool".


Post# 753491 , Reply# 10   4/28/2014 at 17:49 (3,647 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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Ryan is correct....all these energy saving cycles as manufacturer's have to test are based on the "NORMAL" cycle.....

that's all the government seems to be concerned with at the moment...


Post# 753506 , Reply# 11   4/28/2014 at 18:17 (3,647 days old) by roscoe62 (Canada)        
@mickeyd

So are you saying you attached the cold water line to the hot water laundry sink tap? If so the machine did not detect hot water entering the cold water inlet and kept running.
Or did you use a Y connector on the machine for the hot water in the cold valve on the machine with the cold line?
Signed Confused
Tks


Post# 753516 , Reply# 12   4/28/2014 at 18:52 (3,647 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        

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Yes I did, and no the machine detected nothing. It's been that way since day 1. Had it in the movie but Denny somehow edited it out.

 

So the LG hot goes to wall hot and the LG cold goes to sink tap with hot & cold separate faucets, no Y hose needed. Any load starts with the cold line using hot tap water to fill purge the lines, fill the sump, and flush the dispensers. And then I go from there; it's wonderful. 

 

Can't abide starting with cold water, especially in arctic winter. Too old-fashioned for that nonsense. 


Post# 753639 , Reply# 13   4/29/2014 at 06:05 (3,647 days old) by roscoe62 (Canada)        
Got it Mickeyd

So I can do a Y connector on both the machine and the hot tap and get another hose for the line to the cold valve, since I don't have a laundry sink in my room.
Tks


Post# 753708 , Reply# 14   4/29/2014 at 13:11 (3,646 days old) by harpon (Jacksonville)        

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The laundry facet could concievably just dangle between the lines-
but I built a makeshift shelf- for mine with 2x4 and pine- shelf brackets would work if you can drive them into something solid-

that's a good idea about mixing only the cold line then

incidentally I got TWO of these faucets on ebay together for $20, a find to be sure-

but sorry, can't sell the other- it's going into the other sink


CLICK HERE TO GO TO harpon's LINK



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