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Post# 754725   5/3/2014 at 14:35 (3,617 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

danemodsandy's profile picture
I am tearing out what remaining hair I have!

After successfully getting the brake package off my A806, I find that I cannot get the baseplate screws out. All of them have been monkeyed with in the past, and they all have their Phillips heads stripped. Yes, All. Freaking. Nine. of them.

I'm sure I can get them out, because I have access to the threads from underneath the washer - a pair of Vise-Grips and some DL Forum-only language will get them out. But now I have to come up with an entirely new set of screws.

I never anticipated this. I am seeing quite a few signs that the cabinet on this machine has been messed with in the past - there are some other screws missing, and the ones holding the top to the cabinet are quite loose.

This will be a very different machine once all the hardware is present and tight.

Anyone have some baseplate screws? I need all nine of the ones on the sides and back, plus one of the ones holding the front right corner to the baseplate, visible as you stand in front of the machine with the front cover removed from the machine.

I shall persevere.





Post# 754793 , Reply# 1   5/3/2014 at 20:34 (3,617 days old) by DigAPony ()        

I've noticed on a few 12 series Maytag washers I've disassembled the baseplate screws seemed to be greased, perhaps from the factory to avoid the above problem.

Post# 754874 , Reply# 2   5/4/2014 at 11:26 (3,616 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        
Losing your mind, are you?

goatfarmer's profile picture

Foot in mouth Let me know if you can't find any, I think I'm parting a LA412 later this week, I'll save you the cabinet screws.

It's always much more fun working on them yourself, isn't it?


Post# 754887 , Reply# 3   5/4/2014 at 12:50 (3,616 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)        

kenmore71's profile picture

Sandy, there ARE ways to make those screws release.  Some are uglier than others….

 

Method 1: 

Tools needed: Liquid wrench, large #2 phillips screwdriver, 5 lb. sledgehammer 

Method: generously apply liquid wrench to both side of the screw. Wait 8-24 hours. Place screwdriver in screw. Hit with sledgehammer as hard as possible without shattering screwdriver handle 2-3 times.  See if this has "released" the screw in one piece.

 

Method 2:

Tools needed: Dremel with cutting disk, large #2 phillips screwdriver.

Method. Cut off screw flush with baseplate with Dremel. The retry method #1.

Might still need a punch and Balpien hammer to drive the screw out.

 

Method 3:

Tools needed: powerful drill with bit sized to the screw hole.

Method: Center bit in Phillips screw.  Drill the bitch out.

 

Good luck! :)


Post# 754906 , Reply# 4   5/4/2014 at 14:16 (3,616 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

Those come out better with a #1  Phillips. If you have access to an impact driver, that will work, too.


Post# 754927 , Reply# 5   5/4/2014 at 16:44 (3,616 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Actually....

danemodsandy's profile picture
Working on them myself is one of the best incentives I could have to become independently wealthy, LOL!

Since that ain't happenin', I'm wrenching away. Mark, the screws will not come out with a screwdriver, period, because they've already been monkeyed with and the heads are all stripped. Bad. As in No. Grip. Possible.

I think if I apply a huge pair of Vise-Grips to the shaft of the screw and turn clockwise, after Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster, they should come out.

Kenny, I gratefully accept your offer of a set of screws, because hardware-store pan-head screws are not the same. These babies have a knurl under the head to help them hold in place. Please name your price! I need all nine.

Another day, another holler....


Post# 754928 , Reply# 6   5/4/2014 at 16:47 (3,616 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)        

kenmore71's profile picture

Sandy,

 

Not up for the drama of a Dremel or Drill! :)


Post# 754957 , Reply# 7   5/4/2014 at 19:47 (3,616 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Stuck Base-Plate Screws

combo52's profile picture
Hi Sandy I guess you are trying to remove the cabinet because you want to repaint the base-plate, if you are just replacing the damper pads the cabinet does not need to come off the base-plate. In any event if Kenny does not have any parts you need I am sure I do, let me know.

I think I remember you said that you wanted to replace the damper pads, if the pads are completely gone you will also need to the replace the aluminum damper cone if it is badly worn, we have lots of good used damper cones that are not damaged.


Post# 754968 , Reply# 8   5/4/2014 at 21:01 (3,616 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
John:

danemodsandy's profile picture
Thanks!

The verdict isn't in on the damper, because I need to get the baseplate off to examine its underside. But I will definitely be calling on you if a damper is needed!

Yes, the baseplate is coming off for repainting. The baseplate is far from the worst I've ever seen, but it seems silly to put in so much work and not address the minor rust that's there. There is also some minor rust at the bottom edges of the cabinet that I will be sanding off and then spraying with touch-up, with some rubbing out to blend it in.

It has been some unaccustomed work so far, but I have replaced the motor glides and pulled the brake package with nothing but AW posts for guidance, and the loan of a brake package tool from Ben swestoyz. And I still have all my fingers and toes, so that's good.

I look forward to the day when the old girl is a driver again. Having a lighted tub and a chrome lint filter to look at is going to be a dream come true.



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