Thread Number: 53573
Kitchenaid Imperial by Hobart dishwasher. Model KDI-56
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Post# 759393   5/25/2014 at 00:34 (2,100 days old) by xpanam (Palm Springs California )        

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Looks like a nice one

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Post# 759482 , Reply# 1   5/25/2014 at 19:44 (2,100 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
KDI-16 With Soak Cycle

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This was the very first KA DW to have a 750 Watt Booster heater than ran during the cycle, except for the KDS-15 and the KDS-16.

After this KA dropped the water heater in the KDC and KDI 17s and KDC and KDI 18s, KA was THE LAST US DW maker to build a home DW that did not have a heater to boost the water temperature across the line, for this reason I would never have anything except a Superba among these 60s and 70s KA models.

Post# 759485 , Reply# 2   5/25/2014 at 20:10 (2,100 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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What exactly was behind the logic of Kitchenaid dishwashers not heating water until so late in the game? Have looked into and was often tempted to go after a nice vintage KA/Hobart portable but after hearing they don't heat water was put off. Am not going to stand around before each cycle and purge the hot water lines to get 120F or 140F water.

Post# 759589 , Reply# 3   5/26/2014 at 05:23 (2,099 days old) by washer111 ()        

Launderess, I imagine the 'resistance' to such an idea might just be it was an assumption that everyone had their water heater set quite hot, at least before the energy crisis, and departure of Cheap-Energy. 


That, or Hobart believed people would be buying into reliability, and not so much cleaning capability or convenience features. 

Some might suggest that because their commercial machines were connected to very hot water, then so should their residential models. 


I think Hobart might have just been lazy in the end - the water heating system they created doesn't seem to be all that spectacular, given the impression I've seen here.

Heating the short Pre-Wash WITHOUT running the pump, not heating the Main-Wash, then heating the Final Rinse just seems like a pathetic excuse to claim you have "automatic water heating," and not an ingenious way to guarantee clean dishes 100% of the time. 


John, given the large quantity of water involved in a typical fill, short washing time and the lower power of the 700w heater, would the boost produced by the heater be at all significant in terms of washing ability at all? 

I imagine you'd get better results just getting a machine with TRUE automatic heater (Washing + Heating) rather than this machine. What do you think?

Post# 761381 , Reply# 4   6/4/2014 at 04:36 (2,090 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Did Some Research

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According to a consumer advice report one read from the 1960's or so (it was about saving on energy bills in particular hot water), the author queried top dishwasher manufacturers and makers of detergents as to why machines needed water at 140F to 150F.

According to the responses it was universally agreed that the types of soils found on dishes (fats, tallows, etc...) do not dissolve at temps <130F. The dishwasher detergents on the market at that time did not dissolve at temps <115F or so.

Most all dishwashers then had 700w heaters that could do little more than maintain water temp, not raise it. This is because of simple math; the heaters had only enough power to raise water temps about degree Fahrenheit for each minute. With wash cycles usually between seven or nine minutes you would only end up with taking say 120F water to about 130F or less before the cycle was over. At that time there were only two domestic dishwashers equipped with thermostats that would hold timers until the proper wash or rinse temperature was reached. One was Westinghouse, cannot remember the other.

With such low heating power it would take about 35 or forty minutes for dishwashers to take 120F (or less) water up to the required minimum of 140F.

Some households/housewives did balk at having their water heaters set to 140F or above for reasons ranging from cost to possible scalding burns. What the author of the piece did was install an inline tankless heater to the hot water line that fed the dishwasher. This enabled him to lower the thermostat on his water heater to 125F but still allow for 140F water for the dishwasher.

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