Maytag Wringer Shaft


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Thread Number: 53620
Maytag Wringer Shaft

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Post# 759686 5/26/2014 at 18:26 (3,616 days old) by adam (Wisconsin)
Checkrate/Likes Good evening! This is my first post here, though I've read several threads and found them very helpful! A few weeks ago I acquired an N2L pump model at a yard sale--I've always wanted one, and this one was in good shape for a good price. Everything seems to work, and nothing's seized. But... Oil is leaking from the wringer shaft where it connects to the transmission shaft (at a 90-degree angle, concealed by one of the legs). It's stained all down that leg, so I know it's had this problem for some time. Thanks to information I found here, I learned that this is a common, and requires that I replace the leaking seal. The trouble is, I can't separate the two shafts, no matter what I try! I took the bolts out of the leg, thinking that might free it up. I tried coaxing it with a rubber mallet. I even poured boiling water on the old seal, hoping that might loosen things up. If this were a car or something, my next tool would be a torch--but that's out of the question here! I was hoping somebody might have an idea that I could try. I'd love to stop a leak, but don't want to cause more damage in the process! Thanks, Adam

Post# 759687 , Reply# 1 5/26/2014 at 18:30 (3,616 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )
Checkrate/Likes *CONGRATULATIONS* on your vintage wringer washer!! i don't know anything about the mechanics or the mechanical side of washing machine (yet). but i'm sure someone will come along with some helpful tips for you. again congratulations on your new vintage wringer washer!! and welcome to the group. ;o)

Post# 759710 , Reply# 2 5/26/2014 at 20:54 (3,616 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)
Checkrate/Likes *That's probably not the oil leak source* These machines have a vent, or weep hold on the top of the horizontal shaft. And it's leaking from the Power Unit. Once water leaks into the power unit from a bad agitator seal or Center Plate seal, the displaced oil is forced out the vent. Then that oil travels back and eventually runs down the left rear leg. It just LOOKS like it's coming from the wringer shaft. Even if you still wanted to change the seal, you have to remove the power unit and the horizontal shaft as a unit. Most of these machines run for years in the water leak wasn't anything major. I'd see how it works and if it's Okay, replace the agitator seal and make sue there's no play in the agitator shaft. That's a sign of a worn Center Plate. Good Luck!

Post# 760494 , Reply# 3 5/30/2014 at 20:02 (3,612 days old) by adam (Wisconsin)
Checkrate/Likes *Thanks for the help!* I'd noticed that vent on the top of the shaft; it'd been leaking when I first brought the machine home (I had to lay it down to fit in the car--that's how I learned of it). But, man, it sure does look like it's the wringer shaft! I'll take your word for it, though. Does anyone know where to get a new agitator seal? That seems like a good place to start. No play in the agitator shaft, so that should be OK. I'm lucky in this unit that everything turns! Also, if there's been water mixed with the oil, should I somehow flush the system and replace it with JUST oil, to be safe? An agitator seal seems like an easier fix than the wringer shaft seal, so I'm glad that's the likelier culprit!

Post# 760507 , Reply# 4 5/30/2014 at 21:12 (3,612 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)
Checkrate/Likes *All roads point to Phil!* He has almost anything for these washers. ovidny@gmail.com is his email. I think they're only a couple of bucks and well worth it. Oil could have also leaked when you transported it. My very first post almost 2 years ago was how to move a Maytag E2L. I was told that if you HAVE to lay these down, lay them down on their front. The way the vent and power unit is configured that's the only position where it won't leak. If your center plate shaft ( for the agitator) is tight, no play up and down or back and forth, you'll be all set with the new agitator seal. They're easy to replace but if you need any help, just holler!

Post# 760508 , Reply# 5 5/30/2014 at 21:17 (3,612 days old) by stan (Napa CA)
Checkrate/Likes *You may be painting the devil in the wall.* If it were me, I'd wipe all that off, including the vertical shaft were the weep hole is, then just start using the machine! If there's water getting down into the power unit, you'll know it quick enough. It will start oozing out a thick oil out of that weep hole, onto the cross brace, it find its way to that back leg, or drips off the brace onto the floor. You really can't change the oil. The power unit has to be removed, cleaned out, re assembled with new seals and gaskets ect ect. If that's whats happening, then you should look up Larry's thread titled "Moving a Maytag" Its a long thread, but well worth the read, as well as the detailed photos. Part of the thread, is servicing of the power unit! More than likely it leaked out from moving it. They don't like being on their side, if necessary for moving, they need to be face down. (The Maytag logo on the front needs to be down) HTH Keep us posted.. We like pics too!

Post# 760509 , Reply# 6 5/30/2014 at 21:20 (3,612 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)
Checkrate/Likes *I forgot you other question!* You can't really flush these out without taking out the tub and taking the power unit apart. That's a project I never thought I'd be able to do but wasn't bad at all. Especially since I had to do it 3 or 4 times before I got everything right LOL! I wouldn't worry about it. Most of these machines have had some amount of water creep into the power unit. That's why it's vented. If you replace the seal, that water creeping will likely be stopped. Then if the washer works fine and doesn't continue to leak badly it should run a good LONG time. These can run on very little oil. If yours runs a couple of loads with no problem, odds are you won't have a problem. I knew I had a problem in the first week. Good Luck!

Post# 764392 , Reply# 7 6/18/2014 at 13:16 (3,593 days old) by adam (Wisconsin)
Checkrate/Likes *Problem solved!* I ordered a new agitator seal kit from Phil, and that seemed to fix the problem. A few days ago I ran the machine with water in it, with NO LEAKS! Motor, wringers, seal, and pump all seem to be functioning well. The wringers don't squeeze water out as well as they probably should (they weren't stored apart prior to my owning it), but that's small change. I'm including two photos: one of the wringer in my car (laying the wrong way), and another right-side-up. Agan, many thanks for the information provided! Photos... < > Photo 1 of 2 View Full Size

Post# 764397 , Reply# 8 6/18/2014 at 14:04 (3,593 days old) by stan (Napa CA)
Checkrate/Likes *That* Looks like a really nice machine! The wringer "squeezing water out" They where never designed to remove water like what you'd expect from a spin cycle. So what your experiencing "may" be normal.

Post# 764633 , Reply# 9 6/19/2014 at 18:14 (3,592 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)
Checkrate/Likes *Make sure the wringer* has the tension tightened. Once the rollers are lowered together take the lever on top of the wringer and turn it all the way clockwise until it clicks. I've seen You tube videos with the rollers lowered but not tightened. They'll just spread open and only the weight of the wringer top to wring out the clothes. In this video the guy was running a blanket through and the rollers just spread apart. I remember thinking, "Well, that outta be dry in about a month!" If you've already done that, then it's like Stan said. Compared to a high speed spin cycle, clothes through a wringer have about 25% more water in them. Have Fun!

Post# 764672 , Reply# 10 6/19/2014 at 22:35 (3,592 days old) by jamman_98 (Columbia, SC)
Checkrate/Likes *WHOOOOAAAAA* You transported a wringer in a Pinto?????? You got some 'splainin to dooo??? Joe jamman_98

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