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Thread Number: 54043
Dream Machine: WWA 9500L |
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Post# 763952 6/16/2014 at 09:15 (3,594 days old) by bajaespuma  (Connecticut) |
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The first time I saw this machine was in my very first GE Filter-Flo brochure in 1970(it is in Epemera for anyone who wants to see it in its entirety):
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Post# 763954 , Reply# 1 6/16/2014 at 09:20 (3,594 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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Well, I received one of these recently from a seller in Georgia along with a mate. The shippers very efficiently called me when they were down there picking up the machines and warned me that there were some problems with them. I wanted them anyway, because I coveted an all-blue washbasket and wanted them, if nothing else, as parts machines for when the real things come along. First off, can any GE experts here spot something wrong in this picture?
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Post# 763956 , Reply# 2 6/16/2014 at 09:26 (3,594 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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We'll table that for now and get to some real problems
The big problem with this machine is that it agitates, in both speed selections, the timer advances water is injected at the proper times and even the bleach dispenser solenoid opens and closes according to the intervals indicated in the schematic...
but it doesn't spin. When I move the control dial to any of the 4 spin periods on the dial...Nothing. No sounds whatsoever and no indication that power is moving anywhere in the unit except for the timer because the spray rinse happens when the dial advances. Any suggestions before I start to take this thing apart? What has gone ka-flooie when a machine like this agitates and operates in every way except for doing a spin/drain? Partial motor failure? Broken centrifugal switch? Broken winding? Broken cam control? Help!
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Post# 763957 , Reply# 3 6/16/2014 at 09:28 (3,594 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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Post# 763959 , Reply# 4 6/16/2014 at 09:32 (3,594 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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(wrong answer buzzer sound) | ||
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Post# 763960 , Reply# 5 6/16/2014 at 09:35 (3,594 days old) by tennblondie78 (Bowling Green, KY) |
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Have you checked | ||
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Post# 763963 , Reply# 6 6/16/2014 at 09:38 (3,594 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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Post# 763966 , Reply# 7 6/16/2014 at 10:03 (3,594 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA) |
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 I'm with ya Ken - that blue tub is just the bees knees!
I've had a similar issues when playing with GE's, and it usually leads to the lid switch. These motors don't use a centrifugal switch, but instead use a motor starter relay. Since the motor works in agitate I'd take a stab that the relay works fine.
I just re-read the thread, and you mention that it sprays during the spray rinse? That's interesting. Maybe check for voltages across the appropriate leads to the motor during this time to see if it is getting any. Hopefully you have some spare motor/clutch assemblies on hand....
BTW - you posted a shot of a'68 TOL panel the other day, with the back-lit timer dial and program selector labels. That would be a find!
Ben
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Post# 763973 , Reply# 8 6/16/2014 at 10:38 (3,594 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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Martin wins!! (the sound of the correct answer)
DING!DING!DING!DING!DING!
They didn't change the hinges on domestic machines from the metal ones to the plastic ones with the visible lid switch until 1972.This machine is a 1970 model. I first saw the new hinges on Laundromat models in 1971 and I was thrilled because finally that pesky Filter-Flo safety switch could be defeated easily. I suspect the entire cover and lid of this machine is a replacement. I think these machines were used by renters; they have many signs of abuse. Speaking of the lid switch, yes, I checked the lid switch first and did a by-pass to prove that it wasn't' a defective switch. Now, I suppose, I have to trace the leads back to the control cam and the relays to see if there's a break in any of the wires or if the relay itself is faulty. If the relay were faulty, wouldn't the agitation not work as well?
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Post# 763977 , Reply# 9 6/16/2014 at 11:02 (3,594 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass) |
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My guess would be one of the timer switches. I forget the number of the switch that reverses the motor for spin. | ||
| Post# 764017 , Reply# 10 6/16/2014 at 15:39 (3,594 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii) | ||
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Post# 764068 , Reply# 11 6/16/2014 at 18:40 (3,594 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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not entirely true....GE FilterFlos used to wash with the lid open, and had this machine have its proper top, that should be the case, even if they switched the top, they didn't switch the original wiring......
granted it is possible of operation only when the lid is closed, but I think that revision for those models was more towards later in the 70's lineup.... my mother used to like her V12 that 'only spin with the lid closed'....it allowed her to set up a semi automatic soak, if she propped the lid slightly open so it would not spin... | ||
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Post# 764077 , Reply# 12 6/16/2014 at 19:27 (3,594 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Non Spinning GE FF Washer | ||
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Post# 764128 , Reply# 13 6/17/2014 at 00:08 (3,594 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!) |
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One of my fave GE models
Always fun to have a new GE - did you get the matching dryer too?
Our 72 GE washer would fill, agitate and even spray rinse with the lid open. No spinning, but on a full water level the timed spray rinse is enough to get the water level above the overflow tube. "There's water on the floor again, who left the washer lid up?" I wonder... | ||
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Post# 764162 , Reply# 14 6/17/2014 at 06:30 (3,594 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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John- Exactly HOW does one open up the timer halves "to get this Sw in and out without breaking the fiber terminal spacers"???
Greg-Yeah, I have the matching regular capacity dryer, I'll do some posts on that soon because the dryer has some issues as well. Martin-You're right; up to the Eighties GE safety switches only interrupted the spin; later on they stopped agitation, but not, thank you, fill. After examining the electrical schematic, I noticed that the one of the 2 leads from the lid switch terminates in the "SOAK" option switch. The bank of small buttons that comprises the SOAK, COLD WASH & EXTRA RINSE selectors on this machine is frozen solid and may be the culprit. I'm going to check that next and see if I can get those buttons unstuck and moving before I think about cracking the timer case open. It really does feel like a switch problem.
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Post# 764169 , Reply# 15 6/17/2014 at 07:46 (3,594 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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 Wow, Ken, this is a cool machine for sure! I hope the problem is not too serious... If you have the service manual for this, they should have a timer testing procedure to check that the switches are working properly (the info I have for the 57 FilterFlo has a really detailed procedure and even explains how to build a testing tool!)
Keep us posted!! | ||
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Post# 764175 , Reply# 16 6/17/2014 at 08:17 (3,594 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass) |
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The soak button does bypass/eliminate all the spin cycles. | ||
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Post# 764184 , Reply# 17 6/17/2014 at 09:20 (3,593 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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What John just said:
Exactly!
If the options selectors are frozen with SOAK selected, it would explain the problem. I suppose this switch is meant for the EXTRA RINSE/SOAK section of the dial, but if you put the dial anywhere else everything would work except for spin. Makes me wonder if you did this, would the machine overflow like Greg's Mom's? Keep yer fingers crossed! I really hope this solves the problem, but I may not be able to repair the switch bank. I'd really like to find this model(the very last Programmed TOL; I already have the dryer):
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| Post# 765075 , Reply# 18 6/21/2014 at 23:20 (3,589 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york) | ||
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Here's an ad of the 1972 GE last programmed washer. The WWA 8500N is the next in line I'd like to find. | ||
| Post# 765089 , Reply# 19 6/22/2014 at 02:01 (3,589 days old) by toploadloyalist (San Luis Obispo, CA) | ||
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I had neighbors in the 70's with a c.1969 GE washer that continued agitating with the lid open. Any idea when the open lids first stopped agitation? | ||
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Post# 765101 , Reply# 20 6/22/2014 at 06:18 (3,589 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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2 TOLs, essentially, that year
We had a WWA8500N for a while in a house we sold in the late '70's. What was wonderful about that model is that it had EVERY feature the TOL WWA 9500 had including timed bleach and fabric softener dispensers and a unique dry detergent dispenser that looked like a blue Jupiter 2. Sadly, the all-blue washbasket was ditched that year and even the TOLs had speckled porcelain.
The problem with that machine was a sample defect: something loose inside the Activator that made it squeak/squawk LOUDLY during agitation. I visited the house recently and, although the washing machine had been replaced, its dryer mate was still going strong after 35 years.
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Post# 765336 , Reply# 22 6/23/2014 at 05:59 (3,588 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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COLD wah,WARM rinse? | ||
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Post# 765390 , Reply# 23 6/23/2014 at 11:02 (3,587 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Cold Wash- Warm Rinse | ||
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Post# 765394 , Reply# 24 6/23/2014 at 11:12 (3,587 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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Post# 765412 , Reply# 25 6/23/2014 at 12:12 (3,587 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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Back to the Switches. I bit the bullet and removed the OPTIONS selectors from the back of the control panel. First several shots of the back of it because the colors of the wires differ from what is listed on the Schematic:
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Post# 765440 , Reply# 26 6/23/2014 at 15:14 (3,587 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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After several days applying Teflon spray, graphite lock de-icer and lots of heat from the sun, I finally got the buttons to move. Then I took a good look at this thing...
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Post# 765442 , Reply# 27 6/23/2014 at 15:17 (3,587 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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Once I've removed the switch bank, it dawns on me that this is the same switching unit that GE used on its stoves only here with 4 buttons where, on a GE stove, there would have been 6: HI, 2, 3, LO, WM and OFF. On this bank, the "HI" and "OFF" on each side haven't been installed and, of course, the leads correspond to other functions. The brown wire with the white stripes attached to lead#6 goes directly to the lid switch; they're both on the same serial circuit so if either is open, no spin. The other wire is supposed to be orange according to the schematic, but I'm going to have to back-trace it: | ||
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