Thread Number: 54621
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Post# 770067   7/11/2014 at 19:13 (3,570 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Today I got 3 machines that I don't know a lot about. They'll require some work but I'm sure I'll find some help here. The first thing I'd like to know is their exact age!
I haven't done anything to the machines yet. The dishwasher is an Inglis Liberator and the washer/dryer set is an Inglis Superb. I think both are BOL model from their time but the washer/dryer still have lighted consoles. And according to the wiring diagram, an ozone lamp.
The top loading dishwasher is quite interesting. I'm sure Paul and other members will tell me more about it! I got these from a house that's been sold and I hope I'll get the Nutone vent hood that's still there!
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Post# 770101 , Reply# 1   7/11/2014 at 21:53 (3,570 days old) by funktionalart (Rison, AR)   |   | |
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Post# 770121 , Reply# 3   7/11/2014 at 22:52 (3,570 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Absolutely not! I didn't get paid for over a year now! But I didn't pay much for these and they were just a few minutes away.
They do need repairs (at least the washer does) the dryer works, heats and the timer works too.
I didn't check anything but I think the wigwag is acting funny. It also makes strange noises. I have to look under that to see what's happening! |
Post# 770122 , Reply# 4   7/11/2014 at 22:53 (3,570 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 770126 , Reply# 5   7/11/2014 at 23:05 (3,570 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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I didn't expect the dryer to have an ozone light! Here are the model number plates of the 3 machines. |
Post# 770129 , Reply# 6   7/11/2014 at 23:17 (3,570 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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About names, I thought that the Liberator was still the wringer. Maybe they had an automatic version of the Liberator but I thought it was something introduced later.
Here's an ad showing a Royal and a Liberator wringer from 1966.
news.google.com/newspapersQUESTIO...
I'm also curious about the dishwasher. What is it exactly? The impeller looks like a GE bowtie, the upper rack is a bit similar to the one in my 1965 Frigidaire Super (D&M) in the way the center section folds but the upper racks is held by the lower one.
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Post# 770132 , Reply# 7   7/11/2014 at 23:38 (3,570 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 770133 , Reply# 8   7/12/2014 at 00:05 (3,570 days old) by A440 ()   |   | |
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Great load with lot's of fun! All of the machines look to be in great shape! |
Post# 770135 , Reply# 9   7/12/2014 at 00:14 (3,570 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )   |   | |
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Post# 770136 , Reply# 10   7/12/2014 at 00:21 (3,570 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 770149 , Reply# 12   7/12/2014 at 01:24 (3,570 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 770155 , Reply# 13   7/12/2014 at 03:21 (3,570 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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First, the right-hand cam bar is moving in and out of position with the rotation of the wig-wag. This is not normal. This is also happening with the left cam bar in spin, making this even more abnormal. The agitate solenoid is not activated from what I can see, so the gearcase should be in neutral mode with no movement of the agitator. I can't say what is making the right side cam bar move --- it is possible that the plunger is stuck somehow and is taking it for a ride, or a jam or other internal condition is making the agitator gear and gear-fork move from the inside out. I don't know which.
Sliding this cam bar in and out of position seems to be causing the agitator shaft gear (inside the gearcase) to slip back and fourth over top of the drive tabs on the agitator shaft itself. That is what is making that popping noise you hear. I feel there is a good chance that you have some internal gearcase damage, either a couple of broken springs on the gear fork and agitator gear, or worse. The machine looks to have seen very little use based on the cleanliness of the gearcase cover, etc. I think some more testing (with video) would be helpful with the machine NOT in spin, that way we can see more of the full effect of the right cam bar situation without the machine engaging spin at the same time. Is that possible Phil? Gordon This post was last edited 07/12/2014 at 03:36 |
Post# 770164 , Reply# 15   7/12/2014 at 06:35 (3,570 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)   |   | |
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Post# 770170 , Reply# 16   7/12/2014 at 08:09 (3,570 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 770177 , Reply# 17   7/12/2014 at 09:14 (3,569 days old) by cornutt (Huntsville, AL USA)   |   | |
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Was Whirlpool still using the drums with the perforated backs at this point? I thought Whirlpool/Kenmore had switched to the stationary-back design in the early '60s. Did Inglis keep using the older design for a while? |
Post# 770179 , Reply# 18   7/12/2014 at 09:18 (3,569 days old) by barcoboy (Canada)   |   | |
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Just from looking at the wig-wag video, it look like the spin cam bar isn't moving in and out like the wash cam bar is; can't see it in the first half of the video as it is blocked by the belt, but in the second half it doesn't seem to move, and right at the end you can see the solenoid drop down into the lower grove.
One other thing I notice though that could be a problem is that there doesn't seem to be any clutch slippage in spin at all... watch the speed of the belt throughout the video and listen to the motor starting. |
Post# 770180 , Reply# 19   7/12/2014 at 09:25 (3,569 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Gordon, thanks for the info. I'll investigate a bit more!
Ken, I thought this dishwasher would have porcelain interior and a separate drain pump but that's not the case! The plastisol is almost white but I think it's light pink. David, Yes I think that Canadian machines used the perforated drum later than US machines. That probably includes Kenmore and some Canadian Whirlpool machines. Todd, I noticed that too. The belt slips... I guess I'll have to hunt for a parts donor! |
Post# 770198 , Reply# 20   7/12/2014 at 11:06 (3,569 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 770234 , Reply# 21   7/12/2014 at 13:28 (3,569 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 770240 , Reply# 22   7/12/2014 at 13:50 (3,569 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 770300 , Reply# 24   7/12/2014 at 17:47 (3,569 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Post# 770304 , Reply# 25   7/12/2014 at 18:19 (3,569 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)   |   | |
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congratulation on your finding nice treasures if ever one day you fine a push to start pull to stop inglis librator washer with just a water temp knob with a black agitator inside speckle tub and brush lint filter my grand mother had the exact washer as her first washer while i was growing up so if you ever find such a model would love to see pictures it was a 3 cycle washer model
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Post# 770384 , Reply# 26   7/12/2014 at 21:54 (3,569 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)   |   | |
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Post# 770419 , Reply# 27   7/13/2014 at 00:09 (3,569 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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I haven't looked back at the washer but I studied some drawings I found on Internet and I'm wondering if by any chance the lever that switches the pump from recirculate to drain could be stuck in some way and cause that strange problem or does it have to be worse than that? The machine wasn't used for many years and it wasn't filled with water either.
It was still connected to the fill hoses but the valves were stuck in closed position so I didn't try it before I moved it out of the laundry room where it's been sitting since new. At the price I paid for it (and being advertised as non-working) I certainly didn't feel like testing it before buying!
I'll try to investigate that more tomorrow but any advice would be appreciated! |
Post# 770457 , Reply# 28   7/13/2014 at 05:48 (3,569 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)   |   | |
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is right that bar is not supposed to move back and forth , it gets shifted to one position or the other by the solenoid being engaged or not and then stays in that position until the next engagement of the solenoids.
So the bar should not move all the time. Either something is stuck between the solenoid plunger or in the tranny.
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Post# 770488 , Reply# 29   7/13/2014 at 07:20 (3,569 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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The pump flapper lever is passive, shifted by the agitate cam bar not vice versa ... so it shouldn't be causing the bar to move. There's a tension spring piece that mounts on the tranny cover over the rear of the spin and agitate bars, applying pressure on them to constrain extraneous movement. Maybe there's a problem with it. Maybe the wigwag agitate plunger is just stuck in a half-way position that's pulling the bar along each time it wigs or wags. |
Post# 770605 , Reply# 30   7/13/2014 at 18:18 (3,568 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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The top loading DW is WP built, NO D&M here. WP bought the complete GE motor pump and SS Bowie-tie impeller from GE for its less expensive DWs both portable and BI in the early 60s. The better DWs had a black Bakelite wash arm and a Gorman-Rupp main pump plus a smaller electric drain pump.
On the problem with the washer I would take the control magnet assembly off the transmission and check for bent plungers, lose housing for the CM assembly, and I would also dismount the water pump to see if it is causing the problem. Other than these possible faults I am afraid that Gordon may be correct that something is broken in the transmission. |
Post# 770609 , Reply# 31   7/13/2014 at 18:33 (3,568 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Thanks John for the information! I wasn't aware that Whirlpool also bought parts from GE for their dishwashers.
The transmission of the washer was fine. The water pump was blocked. Both the impeller and the drain valve.
I wanted to make a video but there was a power interruption. The washer agitates, spins and drains fine! I just didn't try the fill valves. The power should come back at 10:30 PM and I'll make a video!
I took a few pics of the drain pump before I unstuck it. I'll probably get a spare in case this one fails!
The underside of the washer is very clean, almost completely rust-free. I think this machine wasn't used much. It did belong to a 92 years old lady who passed away recently and her grand daughter sold it to me. Her mother did the laundry for her grandmother who haven't used it since long ago apparently. She told me her mother still has an early 1970's Inglis Superb set that's used daily.
This post was last edited 07/13/2014 at 18:55 |
Post# 770644 , Reply# 32   7/13/2014 at 19:57 (3,568 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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I did make a video of the machine spinning empty before the power went out. I'll do a video of the wash cycle as soon as the power comes back (later tonight hopefully!).
This post was last edited 07/13/2014 at 20:24 |
Post# 770646 , Reply# 33   7/13/2014 at 20:10 (3,568 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 770654 , Reply# 34   7/13/2014 at 20:26 (3,568 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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I really like it! It brings back memories of the very first washer that fascinated me, my parent's 1974 Inglis Supreme! I'm quite surprised to see that these next to BOL machines still have lighted consoles and that the dryer has a lighted drum and an Ozone light. Apparently, all 1965 Inglis washers but the BOL Liberator had these features. From ads I have seen, the Superb dryer had probably lost the ozone light in 1966. Here's an ad for the 1966 Inglis models. news.google.com/newspapersQUESTIO...
I haven't found similar ads for the complete 1965 Inglis line but I did find this ad for the 1965 Inglis Royal set. news.google.com/newspapersQUESTIO...
Does someone have documentation on the 1965 Whirlpool or Inglis lineup?
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Post# 770677 , Reply# 36   7/13/2014 at 21:42 (3,568 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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It seems that the lighted panel made it to the Superb series only in 1965-66. I had seen the 1964 ad too but I coudn't find an ad for the 1965 models.
The 1964 ad reminds me that the printing on my control panels for the water level and temp on the washer and for the thermostat on the dryer are faded. I wish I could find replacements as they are the only parts that really don't look good on these machines. |
Post# 770718 , Reply# 37   7/14/2014 at 01:41 (3,568 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 770742 , Reply# 38   7/14/2014 at 07:04 (3,568 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Yay Phil, you got it working, that is a really low use machine, the all pot-metal four port pumps never lasted all that long as the bottom pump housing is so thin they usually got pinholes in them and they leaked.
It sounds like it runs very well, If you want to use this machine much it should be pulled apart and relubricated and probably could use at least the top agitator shaft and spin tube seals. Have fun with this washer, and you will finally have clean clothing. John L. |
Post# 770752 , Reply# 39   7/14/2014 at 07:48 (3,568 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 770777 , Reply# 40   7/14/2014 at 09:57 (3,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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Wow Phil, these are amazing finds indeed!! In the parts list for my Inglis Sterling, they show two versions of the timer box - one for the Sterling and one for the Superb, so other than the Suds-Saver, the machines look to be the same! If you do wind up needing a new pump, though, let me know... I have a *few* spares now... LOL
Now, that dishwasher really threw me for a loop - I also was scratching my head at the GE stainless bowtie impeller with D&M upper racks. John, thanks for the background information on that one - the only vintage Inglis dishwasher I got close to was a 1967 front-load convertible model and it was 'pure Whirlpool' inside.
Dang, I have to get up to Joliette again soon to see these up close!!!
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Post# 770960 , Reply# 41   7/14/2014 at 21:49 (3,567 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )   |   | |
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what's not to like?
Mechanically, I can only appreciate what the experts know and how their help , along with some confident cheering here, will bring the Inglis back like new...if it's not already done at this writing. :-) I can't follow the thread technicals so much, but I appreciate what you found and the progress made. Nice catch, Phil. |
Post# 795167 , Reply# 42   11/20/2014 at 20:05 (3,438 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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The control panels for these machines were deteriorated. I had them redone with a nice result. It did cost almost 10 times more than the initial price of the whole machines but I couldn't stand seeing these in such a deteriorated state!
Before and after pictures! |
Post# 795168 , Reply# 43   11/20/2014 at 20:12 (3,438 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)   |   | |
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Post# 795172 , Reply# 44   11/20/2014 at 21:23 (3,438 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon)   |   | |
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Post# 795178 , Reply# 46   11/20/2014 at 22:18 (3,438 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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It's a sticker clear sticker with lettering recreated and printed on that's was applied on the reverse side of the original panels. I have an extra set of stickers in case I want to install them on new aluminum panels but these are OK for me.
You can see the round marks of the retaining nuts on the panels but most of these are hidden by the chrome bezels.
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Post# 795179 , Reply# 47   11/20/2014 at 22:18 (3,438 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )   |   | |
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Post# 795181 , Reply# 48   11/20/2014 at 22:24 (3,438 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 795183 , Reply# 49   11/20/2014 at 22:30 (3,438 days old) by bigalsf (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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Those look excellent! I would also like to know where/how you did this. Can you explain how the graphics for the stickers were created? Thanks! |
Post# 795187 , Reply# 50   11/20/2014 at 23:06 (3,438 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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I can't explain how he did that. But he told me he used Illustrator to do it. Then printed stickers that he installed on the reverse side of my aluminum panels. I have attempted to recreate the lettering and other missing parts on Photoshop but the result wasn't very good... I think this process is quite time-consuming and each panel did cost more than $100 to recreate... ($125 Canadian...).
I have another project for this guy (on which he already has some work done) but I'm short on money to have it completed so that will have to wait a bit! |
Post# 795189 , Reply# 51   11/20/2014 at 23:22 (3,438 days old) by bigalsf (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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Thanks Phil. Was this person a graphic artist, or a sign maker, or illustrator? Just curious who I would contact locally to do this. |
Post# 795196 , Reply# 52   11/21/2014 at 00:29 (3,438 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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He's doing screen printing.
The first picture shows the poor quality job I did on Photoshop (with my very limited knowledge and skills). Then the extra stickers he did (the white background is just the paper backing, the parts that aren't printed are transparent (except the white letters which are really white). |
Post# 795199 , Reply# 53   11/21/2014 at 00:41 (3,438 days old) by bigalsf (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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Thanks for the information Phil. I know exactly who I can speak with in my area. Again, those panels look fantastic! I hope your enjoying the machines! |
Post# 795251 , Reply# 54   11/21/2014 at 12:08 (3,437 days old) by eddy1210 (Burnaby BC Canada)   |   | |
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