Thread Number: 54735
For Better Or Worse It Is Mine - GE Mobile Maid
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Post# 771335   7/16/2014 at 17:47 (3,543 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
My God what have I done? *LOL*

Earlier today a GE Mobile Maid dishwasher was delivered. Am not home but asked a neighbor to meet the shipper and take collection. Unit will be left at our front door until someone arrives home to bring it inside.

Asked our sainted neighbor to check for any damage both inside and out of the unit before signing off and he said things looked good on the outside (no dents, marks, etc...), but inside there were some "rust" spots on the inner tub. There is also some rust on the racks as well. Again won't know more until one gets home and pops the bonnet for a deeper examination. He did say the inside had a whiff of something like kerosene. Is this normal?

Just hope the rust spots are perhaps "stains" and not something that has damaged the tub coating. One has already read all the dire warnings about what that can lead to.

For the record this is the GE Mobile Maid from here: www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T...


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Post# 771336 , Reply# 1   7/16/2014 at 17:53 (3,543 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Congratulations Launderess!!!!
Enjoy it, keep handy an estingusher in case it catches fire due to Kerosene! LOL+
People use dishwashers and old refrigerators as cupboards...it maybe stored a kerosene tank...or maybe it sat in an old basement with a kerosene heater...at our farm we have a wonderful old 1920s kerosene heater I should take and post pics someday, and everything in the main 1800s Villa's heater room got that kerosene aroma....

I found tons of old stuff down there...
Jokes apart, looking forward to see it inside and working.




This post was last edited 07/16/2014 at 18:09
Post# 771337 , Reply# 2   7/16/2014 at 17:55 (3,543 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Perhaps the rust isn't as bad....just water marks and no due to chips.
Maybe if chipped they could use a touch up with a specific product.
Rust stains, if just stains can be removed..


Post# 771338 , Reply# 3   7/16/2014 at 17:58 (3,543 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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From the pics it doesn't look bad at all though...
Finger crossed for you that is nothing serious...


Post# 771340 , Reply# 4   7/16/2014 at 17:59 (3,543 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture

Congratulations!!  I knew you'd not be able to resist getting a Mobile Maid for too long.  LOL 

 

The rust stains on the racks and tub liner may just be due to iron in the water where it was previously used.  There are lots of ways to get of that - it's not a big issue.  

 

The 'kerosene' smell may possibly be a plumbing antifreeze that the former owner put in the machine to prevent pump damage while the machine was stored at freezing temperature or below.  That will vanish after a full wash cycle. 

 

Can't wait for you to check it out and report back!!  It looks in darn good shape, so I hope there will be no major issues!!  

 

Just one quick caution - the washer on the hose connecting the Unicouple hose to the water inlet valve may need replacing.  One does have to remove the front panel of the machine to do so, but it's dead easy.  

 

 


Post# 771347 , Reply# 5   7/16/2014 at 18:24 (3,543 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Aferim!

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I have this exact model and I love it. It's not the TOL; it's a full-featured MOL. The TOL has a Rinse-Aid indicator and a butcher-block top, big deal. This model has the neat mechanically-operated Rinse-Glo dispenser and 3 cycles. Mine has a small leak somewhere in the nether-regions that has eluded me up to now, but it's a dandy little machine. These have my favorite GE silverware basket that came in 3 different colors.


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Post# 771355 , Reply# 6   7/16/2014 at 19:06 (3,543 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Ok, just got home.

launderess's profile picture
As another member said about his Mobile Maid purchase, "keep reminding yourself you only paid $50 ....".

Outside looks pretty minty, but the inside of the DW has issues. First and foremost rust on some of the top racks and pretty bad on the lower. Also it seems someone did some "baking" with this unit *LOL* One side of a upper rack near the support has melted a bit.

Hard to say what is rust and what isn't as the inside is pretty grimy so will have to address that first to sort that bit out. Right away however noticed a small nick near the pump area that is rusted. Worse the area surrounding it is raised and blistered. Rather like what one sees surrounding a wound. Know from reading the archives on Mobile Maids this is not good. Am wondering if it is too late to keep the Frigidaire? *LOL*

Will take and post snaps later tonight once one gets things sorted. This MM is larger than the Frigidaire and one still has not torn down that unit and given it the heave. Next trash collection day is not until Friday to the earliest can put it out would be late Thursday night.

Have not bothered doing a hot water soak and test for leaks thing yet. Want to sort out cleaning the thing up and also need to tip the girl over and see how things look underneath. Of course am *VERY* worried about the rust and that knick with blistering underneath the Plastisol. Looks as if someone dropped knife of something and it hit the bottom of the dw and caused this problem.


Post# 771367 , Reply# 7   7/16/2014 at 20:21 (3,543 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
In case anyone is interested, here are some snaps

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Don't know if one should feel queasy and or otherwise unsure of having gone this route. Is it worth the effort to speak with seller about the "rust" issues in view of perhaps some sort of partial refund?



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Post# 771368 , Reply# 8   7/16/2014 at 20:22 (3,543 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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More:

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Post# 771369 , Reply# 9   7/16/2014 at 21:03 (3,543 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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Good show on the new Mobile Maid!  You won't regret it once the rust issue is fixed up.  

 

The only one that looks as though it needs immediate attention is the bubbled hole.  I doubt you'll get much of a refund from the seller if it was sold as is and most times, it's not worth pursuing for the small amount of money.  Get it fixed up and in running condition and you won't remember the pain of birthing when it's all over :-)

 

I'm sure others have made a repair to the Plastisol tub like this before, I've been lucky to have not had to do more than small specks of rust.  Others will chime in soon so I'll defer to their experience but know that I'm with you in spirit and hopeful anticipation of seeing your first full Bob Load finished and gleaming!

 

 


Post# 771372 , Reply# 10   7/16/2014 at 21:16 (3,543 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ)        
Agreed

roto204's profile picture
That's in glorious condition overall. I'll keep my fingers crossed that your motor seal is good. The rest is just cleaning!

I'm not sure about that bubble--it needs addressing for certain, but I'm not sure whether I'd prefer to epoxy/JBWeld the hole and leave it be to try and stop the water intrusion, or actually go in guns blazing and take that spot down to bare metal, then apply patch over the top. If it were a porcelain tank, I would, but with Plastisol--has anyone abated rust like this successfully with some of our more modern patch products?

My concern with Plastisol in the past has been getting something to mate with the intact surface evenly and strongly, to avoid having water sneak in under the edges and back down to the metal all over again.


Post# 771375 , Reply# 11   7/16/2014 at 21:22 (3,543 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Thanks Lads

launderess's profile picture
Am dying to see if the seals are intact but don't want to get water into the "slit" until one knows what one is dealing with. Pictures make it look worse than it probably is but still it is obvious the damage has gotten at least as far as under the skin so to speak.

Am also that dying to run hot wash with some dishwasher cleaner to get the mouldy/kerosene whiff out. It is stinking up the place! With windows open suppose it is bearable, but when they are shut for the AC being on will be another matter.


Suppose one could *carefully" pour about one or two liters of water into the center but keeping the level well below the damage. With a "wee-wee" pad underneath should soon or at least by tomorrow morning know the tale.




Post# 771376 , Reply# 12   7/16/2014 at 21:27 (3,543 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Have A Vintage Hotpoint "Mobile Maid" Service Manual

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Which outlines the steps for repair of damaged Plastisol. Needless to say the kits sold by GE are NLA, but there are various other epoxy substances on the market currently.

From what one has read in the archives the recommended repair using even GE products was not a permanent fix most times. That is after scraping away the rust, cleaning and so forth to prepare the area, even a new coat of the GE epoxy may or may not have done the deal. Am wondering if perhaps as you say it might be best to somehow seal over the knick and leave the Plastisol alone.

Have shoved the Mobile Maid into the cubby formerly occupied by the Frigidaire. It was a squeeze but managed. So in order to look at the underside would have to haul the thing out and find room to tip it on it's back or side. Think will do this after trying a water test. This way can tell if and or where any leaks seem to be coming from.



Post# 771388 , Reply# 13   7/16/2014 at 22:02 (3,543 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ)        
Leaks

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I think you'll like this machine a lot, it has much more character than a D&M. Today's modern detergents will give its wash performance a considerable boost--lots of folks here seem to really like theirs.

If it leaks, two major points I've discovered are the hoses, where they crimp into the pump (yes, crimp--they're just pressed in there, and have a rubber grommet around them to hold them in place; if this is dislodged or deteriorates, they can be very challenging to re-seal). The other is the motor carbon-porcelain seal. The disassembly to investigate this was not difficult, but finding a new seal will be. I'll keep my fingers crossed that all's well there.

Be sure to investigate for any stray bits down in the sump, like screws, olive pits, or glass shards. While the wash impeller is a big, boat-prop sort of affair made out of plastic, the drain impeller that also drives the Power Shower is very fragile, just a pressed piece of metal formed into a little two-lobed impeller. If anything gets to it, it can tear one of the lobes and wreak havoc on the seal from the ensuing vibration.


Post# 771393 , Reply# 14   7/16/2014 at 22:13 (3,543 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Spares

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Does anyone know if any of the parts in that Hotpoint haul one listed in the Super section work for this model? If not guess will have to sell the lot on...

CLICK HERE TO GO TO Launderess's LINK


Post# 771400 , Reply# 15   7/16/2014 at 22:57 (3,543 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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I also think the tub is in rather decent shape. With some cleaning, it should look good! As Greg said, be concerned about the bubble but it should be an easy fix! 

 

I hope you'll like it! 


Post# 771404 , Reply# 16   7/16/2014 at 23:25 (3,543 days old) by washer111 ()        
Ahhh.

With some luck on your side, you should be able to repair the Plastisol issue fairly easily, I imagine.

How long that might last is anyone's guess - but provided you let the thing dry thoroughly after each use, I don't see any issue with it developing too much further (Especially with careful repair).

 

Once damage-control is done with the dishwasher, I imagine a hot detergent wash should do the trick with the stale smell/kerosene that plagues the machine. One shouldn't need any new-fangled cleaners to do the job, right?


Post# 771418 , Reply# 17   7/17/2014 at 00:42 (3,543 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

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Stepped up to a full-size machine, eh? Good for you! Hopefully the couple of rust areas can be dealt with so you're able to start using it soon. I'm worried about your poor dishpan hands, Launderess!

Post# 771447 , Reply# 18   7/17/2014 at 03:02 (3,543 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
I Must Have Enemies!

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Well after about an hour with scrubbing bubbles foam and lots of elbow grease with buckets of hot water sorted out the interior. Cleaned up nicely and some of what one thought was rust (those drip marks along the back of the tub) were indeed mineral water stains. Much of that came off but faint traces remain.

Now onto the sad parts.

There is another small bubble in the sump area. Also a type of near semi-circular mark just under the detergent dispenser. But wait there is more.

Before filling the sump below that bubble/rust mark thought it best to look underneath. In short "Houston we have problems".

First had to vacuum tons of hair (Cat? Dog? God only knows what?) that was around the motor and covering the wires. It looked as if the motor had grown fur. Got all of it off and out but not sure what is inside the housing. Then took care of the spider webs and eggs (yes this Miele vacuum bag is being replaced and chucked out tonight, *LOL*), only to become totally gutted.

It seems the bubble/cut mark has allowed water to reach the outer tub as there is a nice rust stain and small hole that has been eaten away in the metal. Not sure how large the hole is versus just the actual rust staining. Didn't want to probe too deeply before checking here as to what steps one should take next. Don't want to run the machine without water for damaging the pump, but want to see if water h as gotten into the thing and it is fried.


Post# 771465 , Reply# 19   7/17/2014 at 07:54 (3,542 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Congratulations

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Mobile Maids of this era throw a Niagara of water and clean everything!

Mine had a rust-thru hole, I fixed it with JB Weld. After maybe a year, it's still leak free. And the tiny rust bubbles, frankly I used the Re-Rack bottle for painting the rusted racks--and a year later, it's fine. That stuff is made to stand up to water and heat. I waited 24 hrs in between each layer of paint, maybe 4 layers total on 4 small bubbles.

Motor-----not exactly GE's best---Without any removal of the motor/pump/arm, you can nevertheless just drop the base of the motor off and get a few NEEDED drops of oil into the lower sleeve bearing. That's what seems to have saved mine. If you do choose to completely remove the arm and motor, then you also have access to the top bearing for oiling.

I use mine weekly, jammed full. It's loud and uninsulated and does a fantastic job.


Post# 771535 , Reply# 20   7/17/2014 at 14:15 (3,542 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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Which JB Weld are you guys talking about? Also does it go inside the tub or outside?

www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-steels...


Post# 771538 , Reply# 21   7/17/2014 at 14:27 (3,542 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
JB Weld

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Original Cold Weld Formula, steel reinforced epoxy, search under METAL button

Mine went on the inside of the tub, filled thru to the outside(thru the rust hole) near the motor. I "shaped" it with a scrap of a paint stir stick in 2 minutes, then let it harden 24 hours before water testing. Easy and worked well. That was the only rusted thru hole. My 2 or 3 little "Bubbled" Plastisol got covered with numerous layers of ReRack, per the instructions. Again, no more leaks after a year of use.

Ebay RERACK, you'll find it, small bottles. Use it coat by coat and TIGHTEN that lid inbetween, it'll harden up in the bottle really quick.


Seperate issue: Can you read or photo the model #tag? If it's around 10 or more Amps, then you have the routine style that heats the water for the main wash(simply turns on the calrod) and maybe a rinse or two. If you're at only 6 amps listed, then you need your tank up to at least 140 or more.

My Mobile Maid 1966 with Power Shower is GREAT



Post# 771540 , Reply# 22   7/17/2014 at 14:36 (3,542 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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So you are saying one should sand down/remove the knick and bubbled Plastisol area down to the cabinet then fill with JB Weld product?

Post# 771602 , Reply# 23   7/17/2014 at 22:25 (3,542 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
well

akronman's profile picture
Mine had a bubbled area with a 1/8" hole in the center. I barely sanded, just got JB all over it and into the hole and contoured it so there wasn't a spot for a single drop of water to stay. And when the putty pushed thru the hole, I smoothed it around the hole to cover everything for about an inch. I will try to find old pics or take new ones. For me, it worked.

This is my ONLY Plastisol experience, other will chime in with more info. But JBWeld does wonders.


Post# 771609 , Reply# 24   7/17/2014 at 23:45 (3,542 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
As One Ponders How To Approch This Situation

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*LOL*


My Hotpoint top loading dishwasher give directions for fixing gauges and kicks by cleaning first with detergent, then a type of solvent, lightly sanding the Plastisol area, then finally applying the two substance epoxy mixture to cover.

Instead of purchasing endless sheets of sand paper got a brush for my drill. Over the weekend or even tomorrow if one has time will get at the rust area on the underside of the metal tub. Want to see how large the hole is and extensive to better know what one is dealing with and thus form a plan of action.

Thank you for all your assistance and suggestions! Please keep em coming Akronman. Have been reading over the archives on tub repair in particular Plastisol to get a better idea from those that have done this before.

Am very interested in a product called "Rust Bullet" that seems to work better than POR-15. But have not read up that much on how or why some feel that way. Do know from examples both here and given in other groups POR-15 can and may not always stop rust permanently.




This post was last edited 07/18/2014 at 00:05
Post# 771625 , Reply# 25   7/18/2014 at 08:27 (3,541 days old) by nashmaytagbear (Fairview, TN)        

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Don't know if this will help you or not but I hope it does. Our hot-tub had a jet leak and all the water kept leaking out. The pool supply guy suggested JB Weld Marine Epoxy. I bought mine at Auto zone and kneeded it to fit and smoothed it out and everything sealed great. Have had no trouble in 2 years.

Post# 771825 , Reply# 26   7/19/2014 at 06:38 (3,540 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
This is what one is working with ...

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Hole in the underside of the dw tank.

Caution! Objects seen in pictures are larger than they seem.

Hole isn't as big, just took a really up close shot.


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Post# 771989 , Reply# 27   7/19/2014 at 23:37 (3,540 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Tub Cleaned And Repair Work Finished

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In case anyone is interested here are some shots of the tub after cleaning:

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Post# 771993 , Reply# 28   7/19/2014 at 23:46 (3,540 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
After laying down repair epoxy

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*Caution, Slop Artist At Work*!

Epoxy proved a bit more sticky and more difficult to apply than one imagined. Rather like trying to fit chewing gum into crevices and smooth out onto surfaces. Still think one did well for a first attempt.

Will see how things look tomorrow or Monday after curing is done. According to package the stuff should set up in an hour and fully cure after about eight, but have other things to do tomorrow.

Cannot find fiberglass sheets locally other than what are sold in those tub and sink repair kits. Very over priced IMHO for what one gets so will pop into Homeless Depot during the week or perhaps order from online/eBay. Will use that material when dealing with the hole on the metal underside of the tank. Before attempting that repair want to see if the inner tub work is satisfactory. For one see no reason to patch the outer metal until one is sure the inner tank is water tight. If it is then the outer tub can wait as in theory no water should continue to flow under the Plastisol to cause damage. Also want to investigate this Por-15 or Rust Bullet products you lot rave about. From limited research however neither should be used indoors for the fumes that are given off so that may be me for you.


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Post# 771998 , Reply# 29   7/20/2014 at 00:47 (3,540 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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I don't think you'll need fiberglass to repair the hole in your dishwasher. One of my dishwashers was repaired from the exterior by the previous owner with fiberglass and it did more damage than good as it kept the water between the fiberglass sheet and the metal... The bubbling from the rust pushed on it until the resin wouldn't stick to the metal anymore. I just removed it, did a minor repair from inside and it's fine now. And the hole was much bigger than the one in your dishwasher!

 

Almost any kind of filler and fiberglass, when used to repair a car tends to hold not so well. I've been told many reasons why it doesn't hold well, some say because it's acidic, I think it's because it doesn't expand at the same rate as the metal it holds to but what I know is that it eventually cracks and let water go behind. That's not happening when you have an all-fiberglass structure.

 

To repair cars, where they cannot be easily welded (like around windshield posts), I had good results with some filler from France called Debrasel. It's very hard stuff and it sticks well to the metal. Of course, you need to have the surface correctly prepared and no rust remaining when you applied.

However, the product is very expensive and I wouldn't recommend buying a can of that just to fix a small hole like that. I think the epoxy you used should do well, if you need, you can apply tape under the machine to hold the epoxy in place while it's curing if the hole is too large. 


Post# 772027 , Reply# 30   7/20/2014 at 07:09 (3,539 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Looks good

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Almost ready for the water test! Congrats so far. You'll be impressed with the loud waterfall sounds, and the great clean results--
Keep us posted--
Mark



Post# 772049 , Reply# 31   7/20/2014 at 08:17 (3,539 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Yay A New DW

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We are all hoping it works, I could not imagine living without a DW.

You did a great job with the epoxy, plastisol repairs are often not pretty but they are not too difficult to make effective, just stay on top of any new breakouts.

DO-NOT try to dissemble the pump unless it has to be repaired, the pumps in these GE DWs are difficult to dissemble and repair without replacing NLA parts. If either hose connection [ one drain the other goes to the power-shower ] on the pump leaks these are easy to deal with as they are just held on with simple metal hose clamps.

It will be interesting to see how you like this DW once you start using it, it probably should be better than the D&M 18" machine. You should avoid letting it go through the heated dry cycle as this added stress on the old plastisol in the bottom of the DW is not a good idea. If it is too big an inconvenience to try to catch and stop the dry cycle a relay can be added under the DW so the heater will only be on during motor operation. You will need any extra heat that you can get with this DW if your incoming water temp is not over 120F, you could even wrap a comforter around the machine to keep in heat and reduce noise, LOL.

John L.


Post# 772088 , Reply# 32   7/20/2014 at 11:40 (3,539 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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Great job, Launderess!   You'll be rebuilding washer tubs too before you know it...  

 

POR-15 or other products can be used indoors if there is good ventilation.   I've managed to not asphyxiate myself using it in the Ogden basement but I did have all the windows open and a couple of fans to help move the fumes out and it was when doing a very small paint job.  If you have a balcony or porch, that could be a good place to work also.  

 

And that tub looks much better after the cleaning - it looks like the machine did not get used too badly.   Anxiously awaiting the news of the first water tests! 


Post# 772099 , Reply# 33   7/20/2014 at 13:15 (3,539 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

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Congratulations. I happen to like these troublesome, noisy, controversial- quality machines (isn't that what some think of the Mobile Maids or did I extrapolate descriptions?). In any case, I'm glad you found something that appears to have minimal issues that you've already tackled. I am learning something with each appliance experience, thanks to this great support group. I hope it's not too loud - even if, personally-speaking, I tend to like a little noisier machine(I come from the Motor City, for sure).

Hope to see this MM up and running in video and thanks, as always for the witty remarks. :-) LOL.


Post# 772121 , Reply# 34   7/20/2014 at 16:42 (3,539 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Thanks All To Pieces

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For all the kind words!

Checked the result of yesterday's labours earlier and the stuff set up hard as rocks. So now the only question is how the patching will react to water and so forth. Am tempted to pour about two cups of hot water into the sump to begin "bringing the ship to life" as it were but haven't decided should deal with the rust and hole underneath first. Will probably at least hit the rust area with a coarse cup brush and clean things up, just to see what one is dealing with, then go from there.

Am rather on the fence about POR-15 and other so called "rust preventing" substances.

From researching around various other site including automotive there are those who swear by Por-15, Rust Bullet, et al, and others who swear at them. *LOL* Some simply feel the best thing to do with rust is remove as much of it as possible, then patch and or otherwise rebuild the area. More claim that all these substances do is delay the inevitable and that often rust continues to grow under the coating and even eats it's way trough. What does seem important at least with POR-15 is the prep work. Unless done correctly results are not going to be up to par.

With warmer weather and thus often the place shut up because the AC is on am not looking forward to being sealed in with fumes from Por-15 or whatever while they gas off. Will see how things go; maybe can slap some waterproof duct tape over the hole (after abrading off much of the rust) and wait for cooler Fall or Winter weather for any chemical repair work. That way can leave windows open and even clear out for a day or so until the fumes die down.

Other school of thought is to simply remove the rust, patch with epoxy and perhaps hit the area with Rustoleum product and call it a day. If the inner patch jobs hold long as no new breaks in the Plastisol occur there shouldn't be any water leaking out. That should keep a lid on the rusting, and can always just keep an eye on things.

@combo52

Can count on perhaps one had now many times one has used "heated dry" for any dishwasher in my life. Just don't see the need as between a good supply of hot water and rinse agent things dry well enough on their own. Being as that may am way ahead of you in considering that using the heated dry on this unit routinely probably is not the wisest. It looks as if someone was playing around with the unit and or used heated drying too often as part of lower upper rack (the one that hangs off the back of the tub) is melted a bit on one side. Am *very* concerned about the patch job which is not far under the heater. Don't want to risk exposure to too much heat often.

According to the service manual I have for the Hotpoint version this machine inside temps reach about 180F or so.

Our hot water has been around 135F or higher the past several months. Don't know what is going on but it bodes well especially considering it will only go higher in winter when the boilers are on for heating purposes.

Kept the insulation blanket from the Frigidaire/Kenmore 18" before it was chucked. After washing down the outer cabinet and polishing things up will see if one can find away to wrap it around the MM cabinet at least the back and sides. This hopefully will help holding in some of the heat and keep the noise down.

Know from reading the owner's manual that came with my machine and the Hotpoint service books how to stop and restart the machine after resetting to "wash" again. These directions are given as part of a the process for cleaning the tub to remove stains/spots/scale buildup with various substances such as oxalic acid. In theory once one learns where on the dial the main wash begins can simply stop and reset the unit. If done before the thing dumps the wash water should get another cycle. However unlike my late Kenmore there isn't a temp sensor in this machine, so it will continue heating water for the entire "second" wash. That could result in water temps >160F depending upon several factors.

This machine has a 50 minute "normal/daily" cycle with about twenty minutes of that devoted to heated drying. Also according to the manual lid remains closed at the end of washing, thus no automatic "pop up" as with other Mobile Maids.

In general:

This Mobile Maid in some ways is more compact than the portable Kenmore 18".

Because the water and drain hoses are up front it can be pushed almost flush against a wall. Where the Kenmore required several inches of space in back and therefore stuck out, the MM makes a smooth line with the Miele and AEG washing machines that are in the same row.

From reading the owner's manual you can fit a boat load of dishes in these things! While the motor and heating will draw more energy than the Kenmore did, will only have to run this baby perhaps only once a week since it holds so many dishes. It may be one of those situations that the thing won't be run until one is out of clean things to use.

If the thing does workout plan on only running it during the day or early evening. Both to keep the noise from bothering anyone and to keep an eye on the thing while it is running.

Kept the top from the old Kenmore (it had to come off anyway to get at the hoses), and placed it over the patterned vinyl top of the MM. This will protect the surface of the latter as one keeps things on top including a convection oven. The Kenmore top is also easier to keep clean and being solid much less prone to damage than the vinyl of the MM.

Also kept the unicouple hoses from the Kenmore which may come in handy as one sorts out how to get the MM near enough to the kitchen faucet and sink. Another worry is that the quick connect on the kitchen faucet is the larger/fatter version that works with my Miele and AEG. Am not going to be swapping it out for the smaller style "GE" version each time one wants to run the thing, so again that needs sorting.


Post# 772261 , Reply# 35   7/21/2014 at 07:15 (3,538 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Thing Makes More Noise Than A Hooker If You Don't Pay

launderess's profile picture
*LOL*

Spent most of Sunday evening and early Monday morning doing a final cleaning, waxing and buffing of the Mobile Maid. Tipped it on it's back to get at the rust spot and hole underneath and now that is sorted. Hole overall is about a nickel or quarter give or take. Will patch later this week with another type of epoxy am considering.

Wanted to swap out the short MM hoses for the longer uncouple saved from the Kenmore, but my luck on of the screws securing the front panel is stripped and stuck. Tried "Liquid Wrench", banging, several sizes of Phillips head and even normal screw drivers, the thing won't budge. Am going to have to either borrow or purchase some sort of extraction tool to get it out apparently. When it rains it pours.....

On to more exciting news?

Yesterday one had noticed each time the unit was tipped on it's back for work, somehow the tub got dirty. Reached down last night and felt it was water that had come up from the sump. Indeed the area around the seals was "moist". Am wondering therefore how long this machine went unused.

With that in mind poured four cups of hot water into the sump Sunday afternoon and went about my business. By Sunday evening noticed no leaks and that the water level remained same. With that in mind got the unit prepped and gussied up after giving up on getting the front panel off.

First thing this morning decided to see once and for all what the deal is with the unit. Wheeled it into the kitchen and although it is a bit of a squeeze can get around the thing enough to hook it up to faucet and so forth.

However we have several problems.

First after the Unicouple is attached and faucet turned on slowly water comes out of the "spigot" and goes into the hoses at the same time. Once you get to full flow no more "leaks", well not into the sink.

With the dial at "off" however once water is turned on full force you can hear it splashing out of somewhere behind the front panel. Since we cannot get the thing off cannot tell from where. However if the dial is moved past the first wash to "Rinse" the sounds and one therefore presumes leaking/splashing stops. Ran the machine through from that point until "dry" and couldn't hear or see anymore leaking.

According to the Owner's manual the dial should be at "Off" when connecting the hoses, so what is up with water leaking down? This probably explains why there is rust at the bottom of the front panel and how that screw became rusted tight.

If anyone can shed any light on what could be the cause of the "gushing" water one would be obliged.

L.




This post was last edited 07/21/2014 at 08:13
Post# 772265 , Reply# 36   7/21/2014 at 07:29 (3,538 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Relax

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This happened to me too. When the water from the inlet solenoid is released into the siphon-break (to fill the dishwasher) it sounds like water is leaking. If you don't see any water on the floor underneath the unit while this is filling, that's probably the cause of the noise. It is unsettling and worries me a little each time I hear it. On the built-in Top Loaders, this doesn't happen because the solenoid is way in the back of the unit, connected to the frame, not the tub, and is piped over the top of the frame and into a small opening at the top of the tub, so you hear a little water gurgling, but not the gushing that makes you think there's a leak.

 

You've done a great job on this and done your due diligence. Enjoy the fruits of your labor. Yes, it is noisy, but it's fun, quick and does the job.


Post# 772267 , Reply# 37   7/21/2014 at 07:37 (3,538 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Sadly we got lots of water on the floor

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Well not lots but enough to make several large "wet" areas on the puppy "wee-wee" pad placed underneath.

Again cannot be sure but think the leaking/gushing stopped once the machine began operating. Say this because there are periods of respite from the noise (when the motor stops) and things are quiet.

Just remembered did not select a cycle before starting the dishwasher, but did so after noticing. Also what does the little asterisk mark just after "off" but before "wash" indicate?


Post# 772270 , Reply# 38   7/21/2014 at 08:05 (3,538 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
leaks

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The splashy sounds are as described above, the siphon break under the solenoid valve. It's approximately at your left knee when standing in front of the machine. To remove the entire front, take off the timer dial. Two screws down near the floor remove the front, then sort of swing it out from the bottom, it's got tabs near the chrome handle that hold it in place, just swing straight out.

Then you can put back on the dial, start up the machine without the front and watch that solenoid for leaks. My solenoid leaked for the first 3 or 4 loads, then I tightened all the screws that held it together and no more leaks. Watch and see how it openly sprays water into the funnel, you'll understand the sounds you hear.

Funnest Dishwasher ever. Everyone mentioned loud. It's also hot, since there's no double tub or insulation. All that HOT water is pounding against the very cabinet walls you see on the outside. It heats your kitchen while washing!

This picture is on it's side, sorry, but you can see the front of the DW with the front removed. It'll help you know what's going on(a bit). And you can see the wet rug. It took a while to locate and fix the vrious leaks, but now I've had no leaks since last October.

The link covers some of my repairs


CLICK HERE TO GO TO akronman's LINK


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Post# 772271 , Reply# 39   7/21/2014 at 08:12 (3,538 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Cannot Take Off Front Panel

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As noted above one darn screw is rusted tight and stripped as well.

Do not own an extractor tool kit and am loathe to purchase one just for this DW, so am going to see if someone will lend if they have.



Post# 772273 , Reply# 40   7/21/2014 at 08:52 (3,538 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
CheapAs# screws

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Those screws are just simple sheet metal screws, nothing aligned or deep. Try a needle nose pliers to be able to exert out-force while also turning? However you get them out, just use a larger screw to replace it. They are hidden and just simple sheet metal screws.

Post# 772291 , Reply# 41   7/21/2014 at 11:38 (3,538 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
Soak that screw with your choice of penetrating oil

ovrphil's profile picture
Launderess - although I presume you did this, did you let a penetrating oil(rust loosener) set for a while, then try moving it? You have to let it set for a few minutes..you probably know all this, just in case... then as Akronman suggested, get a locking wrench, if possible, and turn it or use a longer screwdriver, with a good grip on the handle, and see if you can budge it. Here's another idea to make your own loosener, courtesy Popular Mechanics:

"A home brew concoction of 50 percent Acetone and 50 percent ATF may work well in some cases, but be mindful of the fumes. "


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Post# 772299 , Reply# 42   7/21/2014 at 12:12 (3,538 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

bajaespuma's profile picture

If you already own an electric drill, the bolt-removal bit (available at Homo Depots everywhere) only costs about 3 dollars. I've made a habit of dosing all the screws and bolts on vintage appliances with penetrating oil and allowing it to sit for a day before trying to remove them. It saves a little bit of frustration.


Post# 772506 , Reply# 43   7/22/2014 at 16:18 (3,537 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Have Used Enough Liquid Wrench

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That the paint around said screw has dissolved! *LOL*

Tried again yesterday night and this screw is not budging. Am going to see if using a small vise-grip pliers will loosen. If not will borrow a Dremel type rotary tool to cut a gauge into the head so can try shifting with a flat head screw driver.

Actually do have two drills and screw extractor bits, but thus far they have failed as well. Don't really want to add to already good sums spend on this machine buy purchasing yet another tool just for this one job, so will see what can be done with what one has in house.

Ordered a new faucet adaptor "nipple" that fits the unicouple. The one which came with the unit is old, corroded inside and lacks any sort of screen. Maybe the force of our tap water is too strong for the machine? Am grasping straws one knows but until one can get underneath the front panel....

On a brighter note it looks as if the patching has held thus far. Checked for signs of water leakage when machine was tipped over to work on the stripped screw and things were dry as a bone. Am going to use a different epoxy on the hole underneath as it is tight. Due to all the wires and such aiming even a small epoxy laden spatula may prove difficult and create a mess. Will use one of the better tube "two part" things one kneads together like plumber's putty.

Regarding sound; don't find the MM that bad. Then again am coming from that DM designed Kenmore which wasn't exactly whisper quiet.

Heat loss: yes this thing throws off quite a bit. Soon as one can find a way of doing so without damaging the newly polished finish will put on the insulation blanket taken from the Kenmore. For the top have a few yards of old knitted cotton padding that one uses to keep the heat in our various countertop convection ovens. Will just lay it on top after starting the unit up. That way can simply take it off and replace as needed to open or close the top.

Question about the leaking:

Noticed when one plugged in the dw there was humming at once. When water was turned on it began to "leak" out of the bottom of dw. However once things began to operate leaking appears to stop. Could the water problem be caused by the timer control being "on" (which would explain the humming sound IMHO) but not in proper place to begin a cycle?

Owners manual says to turn the dial only until one hears the machine start. For certain cycles it also advises to go beyond the first wash.

Plugged the unit in again to test and there isn't a humming. However this is after allowing the DW to run a cycle the other day and shut off on it's own accord. Am wondering if the timer dial was not where it should have been as a result of all the movement over the past several weeks.




This post was last edited 07/22/2014 at 17:10
Post# 772549 , Reply# 44   7/22/2014 at 18:41 (3,537 days old) by wiskybill (Canton, Ohio)        

Launderess,

It's been awhile since I've been under my MM, my daughter has been using it
for several years. The screws that hold the front panel, do they go thru the
main body? I can't remember. If so, is it visible on the backside that you
could get a vise-grip on it to turn it?
Bill


Post# 772552 , Reply# 45   7/22/2014 at 18:55 (3,537 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Hi Bill

launderess's profile picture
Screws are in the corners just slightly to the left and right front wheels. Aside from turning the thing upside down cannot see how to get at them with any sort of pliers, even a vise-grip. Tried last night and just couldn't "see" what one was doing enough to make it work.

Just tested the MM again by hooking it up to the faucet but leaving it unplugged and yes, soon as water is turned on you can hear it begin dripping onto metal (bottom of front panel) inside. From the "wee-wee" pad placed underneath the water is coming from the left side of the unit. So it is either the hoses or solenoid. Water spots are not exactly at the extreme left corner, but more towards the middle.

If cannot get the darn screw off with a vise-grip from the front will have no choice but to go with a Dremel type tool or simply use an extractor. Either way that screw must come out so one can get under the bonnet.


Post# 772554 , Reply# 46   7/22/2014 at 19:03 (3,537 days old) by wiskybill (Canton, Ohio)        

If I remember right, the hose connection to the water valve is
a screw-on like a garden hose. It may be loose or the washer is dried out.


Post# 772558 , Reply# 47   7/22/2014 at 19:12 (3,537 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Just Took A Small Flashlight And Peered

launderess's profile picture
Into machine after lifting up and out the unicouple hose set.

Can see water drops on the part of those that is coiled over the "holder" inside and around the connection to the solenoid. This at least tells me the area where water is coming from. Hopefully it is a matter of tightening up some screws on the solenoid. Or, removing the hose connection adding a new washer and or some silicone tape and then screwing it back tightly.

Am here to tell you can see some rust on the inside as well. Mostly right around the vent area which is probably from years of hot steam escaping from the machine. The bottom insides of both the front panel and cabinet are likely rusty as well if this leaking was going on for any lengthy of time while the machine was in use. Still nothing probably nothing a little sanding and then treatment with a rust product shouldn't fix.


Post# 772623 , Reply# 48   7/23/2014 at 07:11 (3,536 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Leaking GE MM DW

combo52's profile picture
As Bill suggested you probably need to replace the rubber hose washer where the inlet hose screws onto the inlet valve [ don't use a red rubber hose washer, only a black one ], you should also rebuilt the inlet valve by replacing the valve rubber seal.

Post# 772654 , Reply# 49   7/23/2014 at 10:38 (3,536 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

frigilux's profile picture
I've been watching this thread with soap opera-like interest. The input from AW's resident surgeons has been awesome.

Launderess, I'm cheering for you and your Mobile Maid. Hope the time and effort are rewarded with a 'save,' and that your patient doesn't wind up written out of the storyline. Either way, you have legit AW restoration bragging rights.

(cue suspenseful organ music and cut to commercial)


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This post was last edited 07/23/2014 at 11:08
Post# 772703 , Reply# 50   7/23/2014 at 17:26 (3,536 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
So Now One Has Street Cred? *LOL*

launderess's profile picture
Well that is something anyway. Tee-Hee!

When one thinks of the two other Mobile Maid dishwashers listed recently (Goodwill out west and on CL in MA)that one allowed to pass for this unit could sit down and weep. The one out west sold for $5 and seemed in much better nick than what I've got. Ditto the one listed for a hot minute in MA that also sold for not much money.

If one cannot budge this screw with a vise-grip am just going to drill it out and be done.


Post# 772781 , Reply# 51   7/23/2014 at 23:13 (3,536 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Sometimes One Becomes Sick & Tired of Being Sick and Tired

launderess's profile picture
Picked up a tool extractor thingy this evening and went to town on that stuck screw. Well needless to say the thing did not "extract" a darn thing. Another ten or so dollars down the pan. As this point am hot, bothered and quite literally fed up to the back teeth. It didn't help today's weather was very hot and humid so was that uncomfortable as well.

Right then! This dishwasher want's to play rough house, so be it!

Took the good sized metal drill bit and simply drilled down the screw. For good measure took that some kind of piece of extractor and drilled right down below the head and into the "screw" piece. Grabbed my needle nose pliers and as if opening a bottle cap flipped the screw head off. There was a clang (screw going flying) and a bang (release of pressure that was holding the MM front panel on), and that was that, the front was off.

Of course when one does such things it leaves the rest of the screw still embedded inside whatever. At once saw why the darn thing was so stuck. Apparently someone replaced the thing on an angle. That plus time, rust, and moisture literally sealed the deal. Will have to wait for a vise-grip on order to arrive and see if we can sort that bit out as well. Failing that the remaining bit of the screw will have to be drilled out as well.

Now back to our continuing saga of "Launderess & The Mobile Maid"

Once the front panel was off things were pretty much what one expected. Dirty, rusty in spots but overall not that bad. Schematic diagram is glued to the inside of front panel. Bottom was cleaned out of God only knows what sort of filth. Lower half of inside and out of front panel will require attention regarding rust and paint, but that is small beer.

Checked screws on the solenoid and they were tight as a drum, so did not mess about there. Wheeled the DW over to the kitchen sink and hooked up water. At once it became apparent the leak was from around area where hose screws onto water valve. Removed same and used a spray of water to clean the screen on WV (did not know how to remove it and didn't want to mess about in case of damaging the thing), and got out my Teflon tape stash. Long story short a bit of plumber's tape, replacing and tightening of the hose sung, and Voila! The trick she is done. No more leaking, at least for now by my tests. Made things sung but didn't want to risk stripping the thing and or snapping the WV off the machine. *LOL*

It is late, am tired so won't do a test until tomorrow. Well since one has already tested the DW and for leaks probably isn't much more to do than run a maiden wash. Will take and post some snaps of underneath the front panel if anyone is interested.


Post# 772809 , Reply# 52   7/24/2014 at 03:18 (3,536 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
and

akronman's profile picture
Pics of the wiring diagram and model number----
Congrats so far, you're almost done!


Post# 772831 , Reply# 53   7/24/2014 at 07:03 (3,535 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Leaking GE MM DW

combo52's profile picture
YAY You got that terrible screw to let go, and stopped the leak.

Note Teflon tape or plumbers putty should not be used on hose bibs, the threads are there to hold the connection together not seal it from leaking, the sealing is all accomplished by the rubber washer in the hose cupping.

Now the NY dinner parties can resume and the performance tests can begin.

John L.


Post# 772840 , Reply# 54   7/24/2014 at 09:13 (3,535 days old) by wiskybill (Canton, Ohio)        
Good show!

When I work on things sometimes you have to show it who the boss is, and other times you have to walk away for a while and think about it.

Eventually the solution will come to you.


Post# 772846 , Reply# 55   7/24/2014 at 09:43 (3,535 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
I need my head examined

bajaespuma's profile picture

The problem with the one out West, which I bought, BTW the sale price was $6.00, NOT $5.00, thank you very much, is

a). no idea what condition it's in other than what I've seen in a couple of photographs

b.) bought it on the hope that there's a Rinse dispenser in there and have no idea if it is, and

c.) teaching it how to drive to Connecticut. 

 

Other than all that, I'll let y'all know how it is when it gets here.

 

A Top-Loading Portable in the East is worth at least two in the West.


Post# 772866 , Reply# 56   7/24/2014 at 12:16 (3,535 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
Congrats!

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Applause from me and the grand stand crowd


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Post# 772871 , Reply# 57   7/24/2014 at 13:36 (3,535 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Max, You Sly Puss!

launderess's profile picture
@Bajaespuma: So it was *you* that snapped up that Mobile Maid from out West. Putting me off the scent as it were...... *LOL*

Up until the last minutes of the auction was seriously contemplating putting in a bid as well. I mean a MM for <$10? How could one say no? But given shipping quotes one was getting to shift the unit from Conn to NYC didn't fancy thinking about what it would have taken to get that DW. So this makes what? Your fourth Mobile Maid? Where will it all end I wonder. Tee-Hee.


@Everyone Else:

Thanks for the well wishes guys!

Model number for my unit is SM301A3 and pulls 10 or 12 amps (cannot read the plate clearly).

Unit is put together and in it's cubby so pictures of inside are on hold. For one thing have spent a bit too much time with this dishwasher forsaking other projects that urgently need my attention. *LOL*. Want to run the unit a few times and see if anything is happening I don't like thus giving a reason to open. Can understand *just* how someone would have put that screw back in sideways. Unless one missed something the MM front panel does not remain "clipped" in, so one has to hold the thing whilst reinserting screws. Wasn't easily managed yesterday with the unit upright so had to tip it again on it's back.

Next time one goes in want to address the spots of rust on the inner cabinet and front panel. Given the hot and humid weather the AC is on a least part of the day and thus aren't going to be shut up breathing fumes from paints and rust products. Am not too sure about POR-15 so want to do some research. Apparently the rust simply remains "encapsulated" under the stuff, but like a cancer still lurking about.

For now am enjoying not having to put hands in hot water several times per day, in particular after dinner or before bed. Once the thing is full will run a real wash cycle to see what there is. In particular want to see how my Cascade "Complete" (old formula with phosphates" does with this machine. Have a decent stash of the stuff nabbed from various sources before the big switch in formulas. If it does not give satisfaction will have to decide what to do; that is sell the stuff on and purchase something else, or try and *make* it work.


Post# 772872 , Reply# 58   7/24/2014 at 13:39 (3,535 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Note Teflon tape or plumbers putty should not be used on hos

launderess's profile picture
@combo

Really? One had no idea. Used the Teflon tape because one sees so many excellent restoration job by members doing the same. Well, live and learn, that is what I say. Will keep an eye on the machine to see if the tape causes any problems...


Post# 772909 , Reply# 59   7/24/2014 at 19:38 (3,535 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Leaking GE MM DW

combo52's profile picture
The Teflon Tape will do no harm [ or good ] but some plumbers putty and other sealants could be detrimental to 50 year old nylon water valves etc. and again it does absolutely no good.

Glad it looks like you have a DW again, I have long though a DW is one of the most important appliances in any home, I would gladly spend over $10,000.00 dollars if I had to not to wash dishes every day by hand and if it cost more that that I would have to think seriously about having a full time house keeper.

John L.


Post# 772984 , Reply# 60   7/25/2014 at 02:17 (3,535 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

Can't wait for it's maiden run with dishes to see how they come out. And the smell of Plastisol after washing is always a treat. I still remember that smell from when I was a kid and my parents had a MM.

Post# 773073 , Reply# 61   7/25/2014 at 16:25 (3,534 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Maiden Run

launderess's profile picture
Will be a few days. This thing holds *a lot* of dishes! Could be awhile before one has a full load. *LOL*

Have already experienced the joys of a "new" dishwasher in finding our glass bowls won't fit properly in the upper rack. They are too large and shallow. Placed them in the lower rack as one did with the Kenmore, however the MM owner's manual states to place them in corners against the tub. Am worried about damage to the tub caused by things being knocked about by all that powerful sprays of water. Still it is nice to finally be able to place large serving platters along with pots in a dw. Am loving also being able once again to get the kitchen cleared after dinner in two shakes of a lamb's tail.

Filling the rinse aid dispenser proved a pain. Jet Dry kept dribbling down into the tub. Had to take everything out so could wipe the spillage away. Nice time will use a funnel to make things easier and less messy.

Found a NOS faucet adapter to replace the corroded and rusting one that came with the unit. It like the previous does not have a screen and or aerator to help keep the one on the water valve clean. Know GE has made several versions of these adapters over the years and some incarnations include what one wants. Am going to see if anything is in our collection of orphaned faucet adapters.

On another note these Mobile Maids do seal rather well, too well in fact. Dishes have only been gathering for about a day and already there is a slight whiff when you raise the lid. It is also very "moist" in there as well.


Post# 773167 , Reply# 62   7/26/2014 at 07:48 (3,533 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

beekeyknee's profile picture
Launderess,

If you're have trouble with the uncoupled leaking while it's attached to the faucet, try soaking it in distilled vinegar over night, making sure it's completely submerged inside and out with the vinegar. I don't know if it will help you or not but I was having the same problem with my KitchenAid I recently bought. It wasn't damaged or didn't seem to be worn. Just dirty with hard water deposits.

After soaking, I scrubbed with a toothbrush and the leak stopped. It seemed the hard water deposits were preventing a good seal with the adapter. I hope this is some help.

Brian


Post# 773171 , Reply# 63   7/26/2014 at 08:07 (3,533 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
What an enjoyable thread !

jetcone's profile picture

Launderess got down and dirty ! HOLLA !

 

Yes now you do have bragging rights ! Can't wait for the virgin load and maybe perhaps a ----- wait for it--------------VIDEO from Launderess ??

 


Post# 773187 , Reply# 64   7/26/2014 at 08:40 (3,533 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

gansky1's profile picture

Can't wait to hear the results of the first load.  It will be fun to see how you like it compared to the compact 18".

 

Good work on all the repairs, like Paul said, you're ready for your own vintage Kenmore rebuild now!


Post# 773248 , Reply# 65   7/26/2014 at 14:20 (3,533 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

Maybe after this is all over our Laundress will learn how to overhaul a 1-18 transmission and offer overhaul services on those too.

I find fixing things myself pretty rewarding and you do end up with a great sense of satisfaction when done.


Post# 773260 , Reply# 66   7/26/2014 at 16:08 (3,533 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Thanks Lads!

launderess's profile picture
@BeeKeyKnee - No leak from the unicouple at the faucet yet, just wanted to replaced the badly rotted adapter. Though it still does the job well interior wise is rusted something terrible.

So far still working on filling up the machine to run a wash cycle. It wouldn't be exactly "maiden" as one has run the dw before (see above regarding leaks) to clean things out. Also wanted to see if cycles ran as they should before doing more work.

Coming from the 18" Kenmore am still gobsmacked at the capacity of these Mobile Maid dishwashers. Figure even if they aren't the most energy frugal appliances out there may still save in the long run. This would be mainly due to having to run the unit less frequently because it hold more. Of course we shall see what there is in terms of how the machine copes with day or days old dishes that have been sat sitting.

So far have only rinsed out cups or glasses that contained substances which if dripped onto the tub could stain. Coffee, tea, cranberry juice, that sort of thing. Am really hoping can use the Cascade powder detergent from my stash. Really, really hate chlorine based dishwasher detergents, and am sure they do a number on tub interiors after awhile.


Post# 773481 , Reply# 67   7/27/2014 at 19:19 (3,532 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
>1850 Views?

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Clearly one has underestimated the interest in vintage General Electric dishwashers. *LOL* Just think if one had a dollar for each view would have enough for air fare to Paris, France, first class! *LOL*

No maiden wash with dishes yet, but have already done so without last week which is how one discovered the leak in the first place.

Cannot get over the capacity of these dishwashers! Provided one does not "waste" space by loading pots and pans you can fit a vast amount of dish, silver and glass ware into these Mobile Maid dishwashers. Am thinking these top loading dishwashers would be perfect to have in say a butler's pantry or perhaps anywhere near the dining room. This way after a dinner party of some such start loading and in
Of course there is no way such units could be built today as it seems they need too much water to be efficient. You cannot do "drizzle" automatic dishwashing with these babies.


Post# 773482 , Reply# 68   7/27/2014 at 19:24 (3,532 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
@Whirlcool

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Have learned if one is going to collect/purchase vintage appliances either learn to do some things oneself or seek out a qualified repair person but prepare to pay dear.

Quite honestly it is all one can do to find someone to repair the Miele, and that washer is only from the 1990's. As old techs die off and or otherwise leave the active profession new and younger repair persons are only cutting their teeth on "modern" appliances. Miele USA no longer trains in house or "certified" second party techs on models from the 1990's or before.


Post# 773486 , Reply# 69   7/27/2014 at 19:50 (3,532 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

You are so right about fixing things yourself. Hell, most places will tell you to just buy a new one when repairing newer appliances. This is what has kept me from landing a Frigidaire 1-18 washer. While I may be mechanically adept, the pullers you need and the unobtainium of parts keep me away. I know I'd be lost on one of those units.

Post# 773661 , Reply# 70   7/28/2014 at 21:08 (3,531 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
First "Maiden" Wash With Dishes

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Finally managed to fill up the MM and thus was able to put it through it's paces this evening. Will post "before" and "after" photos later once one has taken the latter. This probably won't be until the kitchen cools down from all the steam and heat this DW gives off. *LOL*

A few off the bat observations:

Noise? Not much worse or different than the 18" Kenmore (Frigidaire) unit, so nothing new a Moi.

Following directions in owners manual used a full detergent cup of detergent(Cascade Complete powder, the old stuff full of STPP) and about two tablespoons sprinkled into the tub/sump for the first "pre-wash" cycle. Everything was going well except several minutes into the main wash after the detergent was dumped could hear what one knows are the telltale sounds of a pump struggling with too much froth. Can only assume today's automatic dishwashing detergents especially those with built in rinse aids pack more of a froth punch than that of old. Also am assuming between the pre-wash then rinse that proceeded the main wash one does not need so much detergent. After two water changes one with detergent there probably was precious little for the stuff to work on to contain froth. Will make a mental note to use less next time and see what there is.

Otherwise the cycle was pretty uneventful. Rinse aid pump button slowly rose during the final rinse indicating it was working and thus far no leaks.

*Just Peeked*
Inside DW and am that well chuffed! Overall would give the Mobile Maid an "A" grade. At least from what one saw everything is clean without a yibble in sight. Will know the real nitty-gritty when things are unloaded later tonight. Will qualify this grade by saying two baking pans were less then clean. One Pyrex had tiny stuck on bit of brunt food, the other is one of those microwave "browning" dishes by Corning used to prepare chicken. It was barely touched it seemed still much covered with residue. Now to be fair the latter dish had been sat sitting for nearly one week or longer as it was one of the first things to go into the MM as we waited for it to fill up. It was pre-rinsed but not really washed. Also in terms of being fair the Kenmore 18" "Normal" cycle never got the thing totally clean either. In both instances a quick trip to the sink with some hot water, dish soap and a scrubbie sorted things out.

If one had reset the MM to another main wash the results on the two aforementioned pieces might have been better, but what would have been the good of that? Since the bulk of the load was already clean seems a plentiful waste of energy to essentially rewash a load just for two items. Especially since the heater would continue to be engaged regardless of how hot the water was already.

Oh yes, another thing. Water out of our hot water tap has been around 135F lately and one made sure to prime the line before each fill of the MM. Things came out clean and are drying nicely using no heat. Simply switched to "China and Crystal" after the last rinse was over, then moved the timer dial until one heard a sound indicating the heater was switched off. Then just let the timer run itself out. Will switch the unit back to "Normal/Daily" when unloading later.

What one did notice is one must take care in starting the "Normal/Daily" cycle. That first fill is timed and if the dial is moved too far over the machine will start without proper amount of water. Subsequent fills should be fine. Know now that the "*" means "start".


Post# 773677 , Reply# 71   7/28/2014 at 21:43 (3,531 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

Great! Sounds like that was a lot of fun. I imagine when you peeked copious amounts of steam came out of that MM. Did you get the Plastisol odor when the machine was done?

Can't wait to see the pics!


Post# 773693 , Reply# 72   7/28/2014 at 22:37 (3,531 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Congratulations

akronman's profile picture
on your successful work and great results. Now and then ANY dishwasher will come up against one or two baked/dried/extreme pots or pans. But it sounds like you are finding GE's Mobile Maid with Power Shower to be a great machine! Mine is filled to the brim once a week with anyting/everything, then it loudly and hotly and steamily does a fantastic job.

We'd love some before/after pics----

Thanks for all the posting and details--

Mark



Post# 773698 , Reply# 73   7/29/2014 at 00:43 (3,531 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Good night nurse! *LOL!

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Came back from an late night walk (to burn off dinner) and unloaded the MM before heading off to bed. Overall again am that well pleased with the results. Certainly am happy for once that the insides of my cups and glasses are not coated with yibbles, something the DM designed Kenmore/Frigidaire was famous. When you consider how much this Mobile Maid can hold it truly is a wonder.

Indeed am really amazed how a dw without a modern filter system managed to dispose of food. Mind you made sure all dishes were well scraped and there was the odd bit of food on the inside tub wall. Can also see a few grains of rice in the sump, but all this is small beer.

Th-th-th-tha-tha-tha-that's all, folks!


Post# 773721 , Reply# 74   7/29/2014 at 05:58 (3,530 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

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Congratulations, Launderess! Glad to hear the patient survived and is doing well.

Post# 773737 , Reply# 75   7/29/2014 at 06:58 (3,530 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
Congratulations to the finish line

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I'm smiling at your success and the thread was entertaining to read. Your MM sounds like a well-worthwhile effort, especially since it holds a good load of dishes and silverware(something our new, upgraded dishwasher here provided by C. Partners, didn't provide, compared to the replacement). Oh well. Wash on.

Post# 773846 , Reply# 76   7/29/2014 at 18:02 (3,530 days old) by jkbff (Happy Rock, ND)        
I feel swindled..

jkbff's profile picture
I'm reading along with this nail-biter of a drama and there isn't a single pic of the maiden load!!!!!

Only so many things can be left up to ones own imagination -- This doesn't follow in that category! :p

At least you got the machine up and running and got the leak solved... Stupid stuck screw...


Post# 773848 , Reply# 77   7/29/2014 at 18:28 (3,530 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Tough Crowd

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Am sorry, but one does need to keep one's butter stuck to one's bread. Cannot spend all day messing about with a vintage dishwasher. *LOL*


Here goes:

*Before*


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Post# 773849 , Reply# 78   7/29/2014 at 18:31 (3,530 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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And after:

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 7         View Full Size


This post was last edited 07/29/2014 at 18:46
Post# 776465 , Reply# 79   8/9/2014 at 17:23 (3,519 days old) by vintagekitchen ()        
epoxy repair

Your repair job should hold up for a long time, about 6 months ago I found a 1970s frigidaire dishwasher in lovely Avacado Green, to complement my stove. There were holes rusted out in that thing that I could put my finger through all the way to the other side. 2 days spent mending the holes with marine epoxy, and it has been in use ever since with nary a leak, and I tend to run it at least once a day, lol. As little as you run yours, the repair should last years.

Congrats on a job well done.


Post# 777004 , Reply# 80   8/12/2014 at 21:39 (3,516 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Thank You Vintage Kitchen

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This thread is now >2K posts. Must be come kind of record? *LOL*

So far things seem to be going well enough with this dishwasher. Since it holds so much only have to run the thing about once a week or so. While it can hold pots and pans prefer to do them in the sink to free up space for dishes, patters, etc. It isn't like they are going to come out totally clean (usually) anyway. However if am going to run the unit anyway later on will bung one or two in if there is room.

Contrary to what one has read about these units here in the group am sure there is some sort of timer or whatever control of heating during main wash. About mid or so way through that cycle there is some sort of "clang". This is well after the detergent cup has emptied so that cannot be the cause. Will take a good look at the schematic next time am under the bonnet.

Ran an acidic "cleaning" wash last week to deal with rust and other stain issues including the racks. This cleaned things up quite a bit including rust around the metal/pump area. Wanted to see what one was dealing with in terms of the racks and felt better to just clean up the whole thing that way rather than spot treat each bit on rack. Am going to purchase some of that "ReRack" paint and spend an afternoon sanding down and recoating areas that require attention.


Post# 777016 , Reply# 81   8/12/2014 at 23:07 (3,516 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        
Almost 2,400 Views

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But re: posts, L., you are on the verge of cracking 13K! 

 

YGG!


Post# 777027 , Reply# 82   8/12/2014 at 23:54 (3,516 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

Launderess, Congrats on a successful project!


Post# 777054 , Reply# 83   8/13/2014 at 05:56 (3,515 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Clang

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What you're hearing is the spring for the soap cup resetting itself, so that once the load is done you can turn it right side up again.

After you hear the soap release, if you try to turn it up it won't stay. After that clang, about 2 increments on the timer, it's all reset to stay up when turned.

The various literature from our era of Mobile Maids occasionally reeferences the highest end models with self-resetting detergent cups, all other need you to turn it up yourself.

My MM was pushed aside for 2 months while I worked on a 70's model for a friend. Just last night I ran a load in the MM for the first time in a while, what a sound and what great results!


Post# 777097 , Reply# 84   8/13/2014 at 10:28 (3,515 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Clang

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You are exactly correct Mark about the sound that Laundress is hearing.

Post# 777113 , Reply# 85   8/13/2014 at 13:32 (3,515 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
John

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I had that timer so far apart to prove it never heated the water, and then wire in relays to get heat, I'll never forget all the workings of that timer, both electro and mechanical-----That's why I asked Landeress about amperage. At 11 or 10 amps as opposed to mine listed at 6, I know she has a model that heats for at least the main wash.

And your advice on that motor helped---I now use this machine only once weekly. Oil in the bearings is a big must for that nearly non-serviceable motor.

But I tell you, folks----I have a built in KUDS23 series, and I have this 1966 Mobile Maid. There are major differences in these machine's design and size and racks and durability and noise and heat and steam for sure, but as far as how horridly dirty/burnt/crusty a pot or pan or dish you can put in and get clean results, they are equal.


Post# 777120 , Reply# 86   8/13/2014 at 14:51 (3,515 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
So That Is What Causes Said Sound

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Once again the AW gang sorts me out, thanks!

Don't know about oiling this motor, haven't the nerve to get at it so will leave that on the side for awhile. Only need to run the MM as said previously about once a week or so, hopefully that is not going to be "over use" of a vintage machine.

Yes, this unit cleans up with best of modern dishwasher offerings. Does so in less time as well. Cost of course is at more water and electricity usage. IMHO it is wasteful to heat the water for the pre-wash/rinses as well as the main wash today. Modern enzyme detergents work well enough to loosen and dissolve muck and soils at temps of just 120F. Given that all this water is only kept around for about four minutes than drained is even more wasteful.

Being as that may the results are staggering. This Mobile Maid certainly out cleans the Frigidaire built Kenmore 18" that it replaced. Totally yibble free dishes including inside cups and glasses.

Personally like that the detergent cup remains down until one resets. It helps drain away water inside and drying.


Post# 777143 , Reply# 87   8/13/2014 at 17:05 (3,515 days old) by washer111 ()        
120ºF Washing

Is all well and good until you start loading stuff thats somewhat greasy into the dishwasher.
I can always tell by the look of the water in the sump after a cycle - since the grease is quite hard to remove, without a hot cycle.

I don't doubt Enzyme Ability, since I test it almost every day with dirty dishes. But I think these dishwashers had both short washes, uninsulated tanks and not "the best" cleaning ability - so getting as much oomph as possibly was one way of ensuring good results.


Post# 777150 , Reply# 88   8/13/2014 at 17:55 (3,515 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Ok,

launderess's profile picture
Was only speaking to the pre-wash or rinse, not the main wash cycle which of course should be heated IMHO.

Understand and appreciate why General Electric and other makers of dishwashers at the time designed things as they did, however today things could be a bit different.

In the grand scheme of things the 600watt heater on the MM is not going to raise water temps that much given the four minute pre-wash or rinse cycle. Even if incoming water was 140F it would likely only reach 143F by the end. This takes into account my model does not flush the sump before filling, so there is already cold water sitting inside the hoses and sump. Then the insulated tub and cold dishes are going to cool the water even further. At best the heater is helping the machine to maintain water temp by taking some of the chill off.


Post# 777226 , Reply# 89   8/13/2014 at 23:28 (3,515 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Well It Was Fun While It Lasted

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While running a load tonight after the machine emptied the main wash water and then filled for the first rinse, nothing. One can hear a humming sound but the pump and motor will not engage. Tried turning the timer dial to various cycles and the same. Machine will fill to a point, but stops once the overfill sensors (?) kick in.

Noticed a small green pool of liquid on the floor when moved the machine to the sink from it's cubby. Thought it was leaking rinse agent, but now will have to investigate further. Oh well at least the dishes are clean, now to take everything out, rinse, dry and put away. Once the machine cools will have no choice but to turn the thing over to dump out the water. Then can get underneath to see what the problem could be.

Oh well it was nice while it lasted.


Post# 777249 , Reply# 90   8/14/2014 at 01:46 (3,515 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Something Is Rotten In Denmark

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And it isn't their cheese! *LOL*

After removing dishes, drying and putting away proceeded to bail out most of the water. That got old fast so took a quick walk to the store/24 since it was raining earlier and didn't get a chance. When on came home hooked up the unit on a chance and it powered up.

Let the machine drain out the balance of the water and then reset to "China/Crystal" to see if the thing would complete a total cycle. No such luck. Just after the main wash the thing stopped just as the timer cued the motor to start draining. You can hear the relay click and then a humming sound. Quickly unplugged the unit and left it alone.

According to my service manual (Hotpoint top loading dishwashers) the cause for dishwasher not completing a cycle is either the timer (replace) or something is causing a trip overload. Since the timer does advance through cycles one feels something is causing this machine to trip out. Am afraid that is above my capabilities to diagnose.

*Help*!



Post# 777255 , Reply# 91   8/14/2014 at 02:09 (3,515 days old) by jkbff (Happy Rock, ND)        
Not that I have the answer, here is my $.02

jkbff's profile picture
If you advance the timer back to start, will it pump the water that is already in the machine? If it is stopping when the drain solenoid is kicking in, Maybe the drain solenoid is bad? But if that were the case, if its like my old KDS58, the water would continue to pump around the tank while the solenoid stayed shut.. Unless your unit has a separate drain pump?

Did you jinx yourself when you were talking about waiting to oil the motor? Would the green pool be a bushing letting its oil go?

If I understand these old units like I think I somewhat do, there aren't relays but the clicking you hear is the actual solenoids clicking in and out because the timer acts as the relay?

Like I said, I probably don't hold the answer but at least would like to assist in following a troubleshooting path.

Good luck!


Post# 777273 , Reply# 92   8/14/2014 at 05:40 (3,514 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Check this out

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If your underside looks like this, then there are no solenoids for draining, instead it's a reversing motor with a relay. And cheap sleeve bearings in need of oil.

Your washer does a few rinses and drains, then the main long wash, then the motor won't do the next drain? Likely the bearings need lube and are overheating during that long long wash. Moments later, when it calls to reverse for draining, instead it takes too much to start the motor and the overload protection kicks in. I bet if you just unplugged and let is sit for 2 hours, it would finish the cycle. But you are wearing out the bearing.

The good news: All you need to do is remove those 4 bolts at the bottom cover of the motor, the bearing is right inside the very bottom. I cleaned the shaft, oiled it, cleaned the bearing hole, oiled it, re-assembled and now it runs thru the entire cycle with no problem. Tons easier than removing the motor from the washer.

First pic is underside of the machine, second pic is inside the base of the motor. Wipe it and the shaft clean, relube, see what happens, AND REPORT BACK. These are fun loud machines that wash well, but the motor and bearing ain't the best.


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Post# 777401 , Reply# 93   8/15/2014 at 00:54 (3,514 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Thanks Akroman

launderess's profile picture
Yes, under the bonnet my DW is same as yours shown above. That is the GE motor written "WD26x56" and dated "66" which one assumes means 1966. Just to be on the safe side have found a GE WD26x63 at a very good price. Parma Parts (contacted about other parts) tells me it will work with my machine so if worse comes to the worse am sorted new motor wise.

Post# 777432 , Reply# 94   8/15/2014 at 09:01 (3,513 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Sizing Motor In a 1966 Axial-Flow GE DW

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Mark is probably correct about the motor sizing due to lubrication failure, over the years we ran into several GE DWs with this style pump where all we had was take them completely apart and oil them with turbine oil and away they went. The problem with just taking the bottom of the motor off is you really need to oil the top bearing as well, although you could probably get oil into the top bearing at this point if you turn the machine on its top and let it sit way for a few days while you let some oil soak in.

This design GE pump and motor was only used for about 5 years with 1966 being the last full year it was used. This design was a pain in the neck to repair and from the beginning was expensive to fix, when GE came out with the shaded pole pump and motor in 1967 it was a huge improvement in repairablity and the DWs also washed much better, but they still had plenty of pump and motor problems, it was just easier to deal with them.

John L.


Post# 777478 , Reply# 95   8/15/2014 at 15:43 (3,513 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Thanks Combo52

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Maybe will give your suggestion a try, turning the unit upside down that is.

Also have a new worry.

When replacing the lower motor cover two of he bolts had nuts and that was fine. Two others did not and now cannot tighten. Thought they perhaps fell to the bottom/around the DW but nothing. Also do not remember hearing anything "fall" onto anything when the bolts were loosened and unscrewed. The motor bottom is sung against due to the two bolts fastened with bolt, but what do I do now.

Thought perhaps the things fell inside the motor but that isn't possible don't think and besides saw nothing when the thing was open.

Before oiling took a look inside the lower motor and it is rather clean as a whistle. A bit of dust yes but no rust or anything like that. Just copper and "steel" colors as it were. The lower "cup" was dry as the state of California so put few drops of turbine oil. Also did a little of the same to the spindle (it too had no rust and was just a dark "steel" color. Was hard to move things about as one did not disconnect motor connections so there were mobility limits obviously. Also did not want to move that old wiring about too much in case it was brittle and would crack.


Post# 777515 , Reply# 96   8/15/2014 at 19:09 (3,513 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
nuts

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Yeah, nuts about those nuts, I agree. Here's a pic of the top of the motor, so you can see what may have happened or know where to try skinny fingers to find the 2 lost nuts.

Turn it again on it's side, turn it all the way upside down? Shake it a bit, try turning the motor by hand or screwdriver to see if anything is binding. Turnuing the motor and shaking the machine while entirely upside down is a hell of a chore but maybe entirely successful! you gotta get us video of that as a lesson to all about holding their nuts! (Did I just jump over to the Dirty Laundry section?)


The dry bearing you described is very likely the origianl guilty culprit in the motor overheating, glad you got that, but now I fear a new problem of lost nuts is an issue.

Also, if you do end up entirely removing the motor to see where the nuts are, please get some oil on the top bearing. It's hidden just under that plastic disc surrounding the shaft.

Keep us posted for sure, and actually removing the entire motor is not too bad a task, you may find you are quite capable. Ask here before you do, and I can throw some advice and some thread links your way.

You seem closer and closer to finishing this project and providing for yourself a great old-style loud washer, fun and clean results----

Mark



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Post# 777518 , Reply# 97   8/15/2014 at 19:33 (3,513 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Ran the DW This Morning To "Run In The Oil"

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As it was and on "China/Crystal" it completed the cycle without any problems. Cannot say things were *that* much quieter if at all, but at least the thing didn't stop after one or two cycles, so that is something anyway.

Before the oiling and after the second time the motor refused to cooperate, plugging in whilst engaged in a cycle caused a loud screeching sound. At once pulled the plug and let the thing alone as noted above. After a period of waiting it powered up and drained after which we disconnected from water and power to leave it in peace until yesterday's oiling mission.

Have been pouring over the archives of the group and yes, have seen Soberleaf's pictures of his MM renovation. What one cannot understand is where or how nuts could have slid into the motor if indeed they are there. With the unit laid on it's side the loose bolts "should" have dropped to the bottom as two indeed did once free. If the darn things are on "top" of the motor then nothing will suffice but taking the thing out and apart. That is something one is *NOT* looking forward.

Getting the motor out is pretty straight forward, at least according to my Hotpoint toploader service manual. Just really don't want to mess with the seals and in particular anything to do with the pump as so many parts are NLA. Certainly am *NOT* going to do anything involving touching the cone shaped impeller unless or until one finds a replacement. Given those things are a rare as finding a virgin at a prison rodeo it may be some time (if ever) before one digs into the current motor.

My plan is once the new WD26X63 motor arrives to begin building a new "spare" pump system from the ground up. This would be my "back-up" if and when either the current motor goes and or the pump system. Some of the parts for the pump assembly came with that haul of vintage Hotpoint parts one listed in another thread. Finding the balance is going to be a challenge and largely a waiting game to see what surfaces in future.

It is really a shame this unit uses the "1966" pump system instead of the later version GE switched to by the late 1960's and still today. Those pumps can be found easily and often going cheap.

May take Combo's suggestion and turn the unit over and allow it to stand for a day or so to "oil" the upper bearing via gravity. But then wouldn't one have to replace the oil in lower bearing cup? I mean won't most of it end up going elsewhere with this maneuver?

Shaking the motor? Not possible. Once bolted into place the thing is solid and won't budge. You can shake it once it is free of the tub, but that is another matter.

Again thank you for all the suggestions and assistance gang. This DW is like having a child, every day it's something new that is wanting. Am noticing one or two new small specks of rust on the inner tub. Will clean, sand and apply some "ReRack" paint to seal off.

From what one has been reading about rust if the stuff is not "converted" or better yet totally removed covering it with various products merely hides things for awhile. Like a cancer the rust will continue to grow (perhaps more slowly)and sooner or later re-emerge.


Post# 777522 , Reply# 98   8/15/2014 at 20:48 (3,513 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Shake

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Oh heck, if it's upside down, shake the whole darn machine, not just the motor!

Post# 777524 , Reply# 99   8/15/2014 at 20:55 (3,513 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
I call you "killer" because you slay me!

launderess's profile picture
*LOL*

Besides taking out racks and by now today's breakfast and dinner dishes would have to drain or sop up water in the sump. Then turn the thing over and shake it all about like the hokey-pokey. It is just too nice a night to be stuck in indoors doing all of that. *LOL*


Post# 777553 , Reply# 100   8/16/2014 at 03:15 (3,513 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
It's Did

launderess's profile picture


Dealt with water in sump then turned the unit upside down. At once one nut fell and after a shake the other emerged as well. Everything is tightened up and hopefully the dishwasher is none worse for the indignation




Post# 777554 , Reply# 101   8/16/2014 at 03:25 (3,512 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Congratulations

akronman's profile picture
No harm done! Nuts found. Once you got some oil into that bone-dry bearing, some will remain after turning the machine upside down, don't worry.
While this machine shouldn't be your daily driver due to its age and poor motor/bearing design, it should now, oiled up, be a weekly washer and give fine results.

Good work!


Post# 777571 , Reply# 102   8/16/2014 at 08:06 (3,512 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture

Laundress, you have now earned your 'GE MobileMaid' badge!   

 

Just something I have to mention (learned the hard way, bien sûr) is that if you do ever have to remove the motor, be sure to at least re-install it when the machine is flipped upside down.   I had fun with that on a 1960 MM restore...


Post# 777593 , Reply# 103   8/16/2014 at 11:51 (3,512 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Can see how doing a motor installation with the unit upside down is much easier.

For one thing it means not having to deal with balancing the weight of motor whilst also tightening the clamp. That should make easing into the seal and centering much easier as well. Ditto dealing with electrical and hose connections.


Post# 777807 , Reply# 104   8/17/2014 at 15:37 (3,511 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Three Thousand Views?

launderess's profile picture
Ok, where is my Kewpie doll!

*LOL*


Post# 778438 , Reply# 105   8/21/2014 at 08:10 (3,507 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
"three thousand ..."

ovrphil's profile picture
wondering how the lady with the white phone got her dishwasher rockin' and rollin'....if you start two more threads as engaging, the servers may slow down. (wink)

Post# 778443 , Reply# 106   8/21/2014 at 08:56 (3,507 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR)        
Excuse me?

chachp's profile picture

That's a white slimline phone with last number redial........



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