Thread Number: 55319
1935 Maytag model 30 - - - pics of open gear box |
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Post# 777205   8/13/2014 at 21:35 (3,541 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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Hello everybody,
I'm sure most everyone remembers two years ago when I restored a 1935 Model 30 Maytag wringer washer (purchased from Hardware Hank in Early, IA.) Well, ever since, I had wished that I had initially disassembled the entire machine to have a look at the power drive / gear box. I suspected that the cork gasket has long since disintegrated because there was always a slight oozing of grease at the seam. So...I finally bought a decent set of ratcheting wrenches and tore the machine down. And yes, I'm replacing the cork gasket so the little oil leak problem should be fixed at long last! Here are a few pics - a very simple mechanism but beautifully engineered and well-constructed. That's why these machines last "forever"! |
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Post# 777397 , Reply# 2   8/14/2014 at 23:59 (3,540 days old) by eddy1210 (Burnaby BC Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 777402 , Reply# 3   8/15/2014 at 01:00 (3,540 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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In the old "gray ghost" machines, the worm screw drives the "worm gear", which is the primary drive for the wringer post, whereas in the later E / J / N models, the worm screw primarily drives the agitator gear, with an "offshoot" for the wringer drive. That ultimately made for a much smaller power unit.
The tub had to be taken off the legs and the top portion of the power unit in order to separate the two halves and replace the gasket. Those bolts were extemely hard to loosen (after 79 years!) but my new wrenches worked well. Two gaskets needed replacement: 1). for the power unit itself (part # 13067), and 2). between the tub and the top of the power unit, for the agitator gear/clutch opening (part # 13066). But, as is so often the case, a repair job takes MUCH longer than anticipated. The first gasket material I bought (Fel-Pro Karropak - fiber paper, 1/32" thick), worked well to reconstruct the gasket for between the tub and power unit, but was too thin for the larger gasket. Of course, I didn't realize this until I had the whole thing bolted together again! So I bought 1/8" Fel-Pro cork sheeting from the automotive supply store. It was ever so slightly too thick, and I didn't realize this until I tried to bolt the tub back down and had difficulty aligning the bolt holes. In any event, with a lot of patience and elbow grease, I got the machine back together. Just need to do a little spot painting where I made a few scratches getting bolts off, etc., and that "little" job is done! Looks like it made an excellent seal, so shouldn't have any grease leaking again - in my lifetime, at least! This thing should last into somebody else' s lifetime now! |
Post# 777425 , Reply# 4   8/15/2014 at 07:57 (3,540 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)   |   | |
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Post# 780401 , Reply# 5   8/31/2014 at 13:08 (3,523 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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Came across one of my videos that I never uploaded to YouTube ... if you're interested in watching, here's the link -
CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK |