Maytag Model 32 Restore Continues...

Tub --- I left the center plate (part # K1061) attached to the tub when I removed mine. Was there a specific need to remove yours? Are you replacing the gasket (part # 12240) for the center plate to tub? According to the parts manual, only 2 of those lead washers are used...perhaps they act as spacers.

Power Unit Grease --- I topped mine up with SAE 85-140 gear oil, although I believe the authentic Maytag grease was significantly thicker. There is a listing on ebay for an original, unopened can of the stuff...see the link.

Rejuvenating the Wringer Rolls --- I, indeed, have used the sandpaper method on both my Maytag and Kenmore rolls. It worked very well, taking off the outer hardened, oxidized layer. (note - only did this on the "hard" lower roll on the Maytag, not the softer, upper black roll.)

Rubber Dampener for Motor --- have you considered using Permatex Gasket Maker to attach the rubber to the metal motor bracket? As I mentioned before, I used that to entirely make the new gasket.

Hope this is of some help to you, Jeff.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK on eBay


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Post# 795685 11/23/2014 at 19:53 (3,435 days old) by 2manycats (Pittsburgh)
Checkrate/Likes I have spent this weekend tearing down my Maytag model 32 wringer washer since the pump will have to wait until I get to my Dad's house to make a impeller shaft. I have a couple questions for all of you Maytag gurus out there. Please help! While removing the tub, I noticed that there are lead washers on the tub screws. Is there a source that I can obtain these, or are you using a rubber washer or perhaps silicone sealant? I decided to open up and do a lube replacement, since the drive pulley was very hard to turn. Turns out that all but a small pool of the oil (grease?) had turned to a tar with the consistency of peanut butter that was put in the refrigerator...hard enough to make it really hard to remove and I used a half gallon of mineral spirits to get it cleaned out. This brings me to question 2: What type of gear oil is used as a replacement? I have been searching everywhere, and the answers are so broad they go from 90 weight gear oil to axle grease. I've decided to use 00 grease, but is that the best choice? I found new modern style oil seals for the transmission and pump, and I have been looking locally for the paper material to make new gaskets. I also have been making replacement cork gaskets as well. I got a sheet of rubber to replace the motor mounts, but I am still waiting to receive the adhesive that will bond the rubber to the steel mounts. Lastly, I read in the Maytag service manual that the wringer rollers can be resurfaced with medium grit sandpaper. Has anyone ever attempted this, and if so, how did it work out? Sorry I don't have any pics for this round, but really all I did was tear it down and made mud pies in the tar pit transmission....and order parts. Thanks again for all your help, Jeff

Post# 795730 , Reply# 1 11/24/2014 at 01:06 (3,434 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)
Checkrate/Likes *Here's what I've done ...* Tub --- I left the center plate (part # K1061) attached to the tub when I removed mine. Was there a specific need to remove yours? Are you replacing the gasket (part # 12240) for the center plate to tub? According to the parts manual, only 2 of those lead washers are used...perhaps they act as spacers. Power Unit Grease --- I topped mine up with SAE 85-140 gear oil, although I believe the authentic Maytag grease was significantly thicker. There is a listing on ebay for an original, unopened can of the stuff...see the link. Rejuvenating the Wringer Rolls --- I, indeed, have used the sandpaper method on both my Maytag and Kenmore rolls. It worked very well, taking off the outer hardened, oxidized layer. (note - only did this on the "hard" lower roll on the Maytag, not the softer, upper black roll.) Rubber Dampener for Motor --- have you considered using Permatex Gasket Maker to attach the rubber to the metal motor bracket? As I mentioned before, I used that to entirely make the new gasket. Hope this is of some help to you, Jeff. CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK on eBay

Post# 795756 , Reply# 2 11/24/2014 at 07:28 (3,434 days old) by 2manycats (Pittsburgh)
Checkrate/Likes *Thank you Brad!* I will have to look at the washers again. Now that I think of it, since there are only 2 these are possibly the bolts that secure the drain elbow and not the tub. Thank you for the link to the grease. I was looking at those on Ebay but I was afraid to purchase one and open it up to find the same dried out condition...plus, I would feel bad about opening up an antique can like that LOL. The Tractor supply near me has 00 grease, which is semi-fluid and is made for gearboxes that are leaky, so as long as it is friendly to yellow metals, I'll be OK. I am glad that the sandpaper worked for the roller. I was afraid to try, thinking I would ruin it. Did you have any special technique to avoid flat spots while sanding? To my dismay, I had bought a sheet of silicone rubber mat, which I have found out is a real pain to glue. I found an adhesive that will work (so they say), but if not, my plan B is to do exactly what you did with the RTV sealant. Thanks for all of your insight Brad! Jeff CLICK HERE TO GO TO 2manycats's LINK