Thread Number: 57711  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
maytag lat9800 transmission rebuild or not
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Post# 801283   12/28/2014 at 17:57 (1,364 days old) by washee () transmission went out on my Maytag lat9800. The new part cost $$. Has anyone tried buying a used transmission for about $50 online. How much would the new seals cost? I don't know if I should replace this unit with a new Speed Queen, given all the costs involved. The Speed queens has a faster spin cycle. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance...

Post# 801303 , Reply# 1   12/28/2014 at 19:52 (1,364 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Maytag Dependable Care washers are very rebuildable. However, to replace the trans most of the washer will have to be disassembled. Not too bad if you're handy and there is plenty info available here and elsewhere online that explains what is involved.
If you shop around parts could run between $200-300 altogether, depending on how much you pay for the trans, plus you'll need a tub spanner wrench, around $15 on Ebay.

A faster way to get back in business is find a nice used Maytag DC washer on Craigslist. Unless you're located down in the boondocks there are usually several for sale at any given time in the $75-150 price range.

Post# 801324 , Reply# 2   12/28/2014 at 21:46 (1,364 days old) by washee ()        

ok, thanks but where am I going to find an almond or bisque colored one to match the dryer.....? Not in boondocks......Los Angeles area...

Post# 801341 , Reply# 3   12/29/2014 at 00:12 (1,364 days old) by DigAPony ()        
find an almond or bisque colored

Well, here is nice a looking Harvest Gold A606 that can be your first vintage washer and be put into service while the LAT9800 gets rebuilt or a replacement is found.

Post# 801349 , Reply# 4   12/29/2014 at 02:22 (1,364 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

beekeyknee's profile picture
That depends on a lot of variables. You haven't given us much information. What's the over all condition of the machine, did you like the machine, is it part of a matched set, are you handy mechanically, do you like the orbital drive (short, fast stroke machines) or would you rather have the Pitman type transmission (older, long slow stroke machine), do you have time to rebuild a machine (big variable) or do you need something right away? These are only some of the variables. We can't give you a comprehensive answer to a wide open question like that and it sounds like you have some decisions to make before any questions can really be answered. In a nut shell, so to speak, we don't know your "life situation".

Post# 801354 , Reply# 5   12/29/2014 at 03:30 (1,364 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        
I agree...

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
There's not a lot of info here yet. What exactly went wrong with the transmission? You mentioned seals. If you're just experiencing a oil leak underneath, then the lower seal on your washer (if it's an orbital) can be replaced for a substantially reduced cost compared to replacing the whole transmission. Can you be more exact?


Post# 801531 , Reply# 6   12/30/2014 at 03:05 (1,363 days old) by washee ()        
One day....this happened

One day I tried to use the machine and it was agitating when it was on spin dry. Then after a few minutes of agitation or spin. Belt under machine is turning pulleys. It is a matched set, almond colors. Not any rust that I can see on the machine. I was thinking of buying the tool to take off the castle nut to see if the outer tub has any rust. If not. either rebuild it or buy a new or used Speed Queen. Yes, I am mechanically inclined. The thing that bothers me is that the spin dry seems so slow compared to newer models. I guess it has the orbital transmission. I figure a rebuild is anywhere from 250 plus.

Post# 801569 , Reply# 7   12/30/2014 at 14:31 (1,362 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
Ok. It does indeed sound like you have a transmission issue. You can get the transmissions new and used. You can look on Craigslist or the like or try a store that hauls old ones away as part of the sale for a donor that is the same era and capacity as yours and there you go. I have a thread on here that explains how to get to it. If you are mechanically inclined, then you should be able to do it.


Post# 802443 , Reply# 8   1/5/2015 at 15:06 (1,356 days old) by washee ()        
Tired of being the agitator

Well I still don't know if I should make the investment in my LAT9800. Right now I fill it up with water and agitate it by hand. The machine still drains. What I am asking is there anyway to remove the castle nut without buying the special tool. That way I can see if the tub has any significant rust before I make a decision. Thanks in advance....

Post# 802456 , Reply# 9   1/5/2015 at 16:50 (1,356 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

You can remove the tub nut, with a chisel, by splitting it. You  can also remove it by tapping it with a punch, and hammer. IIRC, it has reverse threads.

Post# 802613 , Reply# 10   1/6/2015 at 15:45 (1,355 days old) by washee ()        
Part number

Does anyone know if I can use a 6-2097790 replacment part for the transmission instead of the 6-2097750. Is the difference just the seals in the kit?

Post# 802732 , Reply# 11   1/7/2015 at 03:14 (1,355 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

beekeyknee's profile picture
No, the mounting stem and boot seal are the same. The difference is the ---90 is for a standard capacity and the ---50 is for a large capacity machine. Why aren't you giving us the whole model number? There should be three letters following the LAT9800.

Be careful when banging on the spanner nut down inside the tub as to not hit the side and chip the porcelain.

This post was last edited 01/07/2015 at 05:10
Post# 802737 , Reply# 12   1/7/2015 at 05:35 (1,355 days old) by washee ()        
ok the whole id number is...LAT9800

LAT9800AAL ...will I be able to use the kit ending in a 90 instead of the 50.....:)

Post# 802822 , Reply# 13   1/7/2015 at 18:01 (1,354 days old) by super32 (Blackstone Massachusetts)        
As beekeenee stated

super32's profile picture

You will NOT be able to use the kit ending in 90. 90 is for the models with a small tub.

Post# 802868 , Reply# 14   1/7/2015 at 23:34 (1,354 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

beekeyknee's profile picture
Here. Some exploded views. I have an orbital transmission you can have for the cost of shipping. I also have the agitator that goes with it. If you're determined to do this rebuild I can give you some links. I'd suggest posting some pics so we can see what you're doing.


Post# 816804 , Reply# 15   3/31/2015 at 22:48 (1,271 days old) by washee ()        
got hold of another transmission

Hi I am back and I have another transmission. I think it is new but not sure. How can I test the unit off the machine. Do I turn the bottom screw clockwise or counter clockwise to test it.....thanks in advance...

Post# 816862 , Reply# 16   4/1/2015 at 09:30 (1,271 days old) by brucelucenta ()        

Get a new machine and join the 21st century.

Post# 816971 , Reply# 17   4/1/2015 at 19:03 (1,270 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

beekeyknee's profile picture
If you're looking at the end of the drive shaft where the pulley attaches (the helix) you should turn it counter-clockwise for agitate. It will, however, turn the agitator drive shaft either direction you turn it. When installed the pulley turns the shaft CCW (looking at the shaft from the bottom) during agitation and during spin the pulley climes the helix, pushes against the underneath side of the brake to disengage it and allows the transmission to spin CW when viewed from the bottom. This makes the tub spin CCW when viewing the machine from above as in normal operating conditions.

Post# 817576 , Reply# 18   4/5/2015 at 11:26 (1,267 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)        

If the machine is agitating on spin the motor is turning in the wrong direction for spin.You may have a timer problem or the stop lug on the transmission shaft is somehow jammed or misadjusted.When you turn the pulley clockwise it should wind up the shaft release the brake and the basket should turn,counter clockwise the pulley should stay down and turn the transmission gears for agitate.

Post# 817643 , Reply# 19   4/5/2015 at 19:34 (1,266 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        
Join the 21st century...

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
That's really helpful advice for a person who is asking for guidance on repairing his current machine.



Post# 817650 , Reply# 20   4/5/2015 at 20:05 (1,266 days old) by whirlykenmore78 (Prior Lake MN (GMT-0700 CDT.))        
You are exactly right Andy:

whirlykenmore78's profile picture
He would have a MUCH BETTER machine repairing this DC MT than buying most of the S#!T made today. If he dosen't fix it I would call for a good low mileage WP/KM DD washer or another DC MT. If he has to have new then it's time for SQ.

Post# 818006 , Reply# 21   4/7/2015 at 20:56 (1,264 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
Don't get me started. Am a authorized Electrolux, Dacor, LG etc servicer since the move to California.

I thought I'd never miss Whirltags so much...


Post# 875093 , Reply# 22   3/31/2016 at 06:55 (906 days old) by washee ()        
Lat9800 rebuild transmission

I talked with a tech today and he told me that I could rebuild
the transmision on the unit by tipping it on its back. Has anyone
ever rebuilt an orbital transmission or will I have to remove
the tub as per videos on internet....thanks in advance...

Post# 875184 , Reply# 23   3/31/2016 at 20:50 (905 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

Yes you can replace broken or otherwise bad parts with the transmission in the washer.

Post# 875299 , Reply# 24   4/2/2016 at 03:47 (904 days old) by washee ()        
ok, the only videos I have seen

Ok,the only videos I have seen take the tub out. Where do you get info on how to repair the
transmission in the washer...thanks....

Post# 875599 , Reply# 25   4/4/2016 at 12:32 (902 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        

volvoguy87's profile picture
You flip the washer onto its back and remove the front panel. Spin the main pulley so the inner tub spins around until the transmission has come to a stop with the flat front cover plate facing the front of the washer (up). You can then remove the cover plate without spilling all of the oil. Put some rags down inside the cabinet in case some oil spills anyway.

Good luck!

Post# 968126 , Reply# 26   11/15/2017 at 15:09 (311 days old) by webco (Santa Monica)        
Maytag A 806 transmission

My transmission went out on my Maytag A 806 washer. The part is discontinued (#10172457). Anybody know where I might find one?

Post# 968183 , Reply# 27   11/15/2017 at 19:03 (311 days old) by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        
A806 trans

Well unfortunately these are not as easy to find as the orbital. What happened to yours?

eBay sometimes has used or rebuilt units, other than that you'll have to find a machine of the era to become a donor machine. X06, x08, x10, and most x12 series have the classic pitman trans yours has

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