Thread Number: 57989
/ Tag: Modern Dryers
Troubleshooting dead Calypso |
[Down to Last] |
Post# 804600   1/17/2015 at 15:14 (3,357 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
My Calypso suddenly came up dead a couple days ago. No response, either setting a cycle or attempting diagnostics. I checked the points listed in the L-67 service manual for "Won't Power Up" and all checks pass. Line filter has voltage in and out. P16 on the machine control board has 120v at pins 2 and 4. I have three sets of spare boards. I tried two of the spare motor boards and one machine control board. Still dead. I have a full spare control panel. Swapped it in to the power connection. Still dead. I tried testing several of the keypads (on the ribbon cables, per L-67 manual) but don't get a response on either the original panel or the spare panel ... so either I'm doing the testing wrong, or my meter leads aren't slim enough to touch the contacts on back of the ribbon cable connectors. What am I missing / overlooking? |
|
Post# 804622 , Reply# 1   1/17/2015 at 19:02 (3,357 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
1    
|
Post# 804663 , Reply# 2   1/18/2015 at 00:15 (3,357 days old) by A440 ()   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
That sucks! I wonder what could have happened. I know you will find out! Love these machines! B |
Post# 804692 , Reply# 3   1/18/2015 at 06:01 (3,357 days old) by Mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 804727 , Reply# 4   1/18/2015 at 10:56 (3,356 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
from your picture, what about that little black box in the lower left attached to the top, is power going in and out of that....seems odd to change what you have already, and not get a response of some sort...
of course you have done the one main thing, and that is leave it unplugged for a few days....sometimes you have to unplug everything in the control panel as well....but since you switched that out, this is a puzzling diagnosis.... |
Post# 804728 , Reply# 5   1/18/2015 at 11:21 (3,356 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Wiring diagram. Note the machine of question is a revised issue without the flood pressure switch so P17 has a jumper across Pin 1 and 3. The little black box is the line filter. I have 120v from the cord through the line filter and at the Machine Control Board P16 Pin 2 and 4, per the troubleshooting procedure in the service manual. There's a small relay on the Machine Control Board that clicks when it powers on and the display digits and various button indicators illuminate ... but neither is happening. The fuse on the Motor board(s) test good. Tried two motor boards, two machine control boards. The touch panel has never exhibited any flakiness but I did try a spare panel. I suppose it's possible both spare boards I tried are bad. Have one more set of spare boards not yet tried ... and a 4th pair of boards in the other machine in the garage that's as yet not refurbished but does run per the few times I used it more than 8 years ago. |
Post# 804730 , Reply# 6   1/18/2015 at 12:04 (3,356 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Have you checked if the UI ever gets power and\or a signal? I doubt all bords you tested are dead. |
Post# 804739 , Reply# 7   1/18/2015 at 12:58 (3,356 days old) by Mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 804750 , Reply# 8   1/18/2015 at 14:08 (3,356 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
The cabinet interlock switches (one on the front panel, one on the bottom panel) are to ground the drive motor when either panel is removed (or not ground it when the panels are in place). They shouldn't have any relation to this problem, the motor runs either way (or would run if the machine wasn't otherwise dead). The UI panel receives power via the machine control board P11 and/or P12, those are the only connections to the UI. The stated test procedure is for the keypad matrix across the various ribbon cable leads. Nothing about which leads are for power. The pin holes and contacts on the ribbon connectors are very small. My meter probes are too large so I haven't yet been able to test it, although perhaps I can improvise something. Anyway, changing the machine control board effectively changes the power source for the UI. |
Post# 804753 , Reply# 9   1/18/2015 at 14:50 (3,356 days old) by Mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 804760 , Reply# 10   1/18/2015 at 15:42 (3,356 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Glenn has a by-pass lid switch, so that sort of helps in a case like this for checking the actual lid switch....
sometimes you can use something along the lines of telephone wire to slide into terminals where regular ohms meter probes are too big.... unfortunately he is going to have to trouble shoot by tracing down to where power is going, and where it has stopped.... |
Post# 804771 , Reply# 11   1/18/2015 at 16:53 (3,356 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Swapped in a 3rd machine control board. No joy. Checked the line filter again ... 121.7 volts coming out of it. Next to rig-up something for checking the keypads ... paperclips. I don't get a reading across the designated pins for several of the buttons selected to test, on both the original panel and the spare. Didn't test them all, there are 18. However, I also don't get a positive reading from the panel on the garage machine, which is confirmed to work -- I powered it on both before and after attempting to test the keypanel. That's 3 for 3 failures on the key matrix test, including on a known good panel ... so I'm thinking the proscribed test method is invalid. Which leaves me at a roadblock. |
Post# 804856 , Reply# 12   1/19/2015 at 08:15 (3,356 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Glenn -what's the conductivity of the paper clips? they're not aluminum or some other metal-mix, are they? I can't believe that Matrix would be faulty, although I've had plenty of system documentation missing even after a new software/hardware product was new or in use for a while.
Have you thought of using, as Martin mentioned, a clean sourced wire for the contacts? Just asking; hope you get some ideas that solve the problem. |
Post# 804861 , Reply# 13   1/19/2015 at 08:43 (3,356 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
I guess the next step is to walk through each external component, making sure nothing is an open circuit where it shouldn't be...
Thermal protectors. Thermistor. Switches. Solenoids. If it isn't on the control boards, which have been swapped, then the alternative is an open component. Good thing you have a functioning unit in the garage to test against. Malcolm |
Post# 804875 , Reply# 14   1/19/2015 at 12:21 (3,355 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Suggestion from John Lefever that the line filter may be bad even though it tests good. This morn I swapped the line filter from the garage machine. No effect. The paperclips are metal. I get 0 ohms reading directly across them. Seems none of the components other than the cord, line filter, two boards, and keypanel should be in play for getting the machine powered-on. The motor board gets power from the machine control board (P16 1 & 5 --> P1 1 & 2) and the motor board doesn't turn on the pump or drive motor unless a cycle or diagnostic is running. Pressing a valid cycle button or diagnostic key pattern triggers the machine to "wake up" so that logically points to the keypanel as the fault. I haven't yet tried moving the panel from the garage machine. The garage machine is platinum (grey), the house machine is white so the panels are slightly different colors ... which isn't a problem for testing but I'd rather have the house machine correct. Replacement panels are available but are *very* expensive. I love my Calypso so don't mind the cost IF it's a sure fix. |
Post# 804909 , Reply# 15   1/19/2015 at 16:02 (3,355 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
4    
|
Post# 804920 , Reply# 16   1/19/2015 at 18:06 (3,355 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 804928 , Reply# 17   1/19/2015 at 18:55 (3,355 days old) by Mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 804929 , Reply# 18   1/19/2015 at 18:57 (3,355 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 804955 , Reply# 19   1/19/2015 at 21:08 (3,355 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 804973 , Reply# 20   1/19/2015 at 23:18 (3,355 days old) by A440 ()   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Glad you got it all figured out! Sucks that it failed in the first place. I did not see where you found out what was the cause of the failure. I know you love this machine. It is your daily driver right? B
|
Post# 804992 , Reply# 21   1/20/2015 at 05:27 (3,355 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 805082 , Reply# 22   1/20/2015 at 19:12 (3,354 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
3    
Brent, the touch panel was bad. Yes, daily driver since approx Oct 2008 (I thought it was a year longer). My IWL12 and FAV6800 are secondaries, and usually one other but I haven't pulled anything out of the garage to refurb since my aunt's Norgetag was done and sold. It pretty much was obvious the panel was the problem since everything else checked out up to that point in the chain, but I was thrown off-kilter when I couldn't get a positive key matrix test on any of the three panels. Electronics ... gotta love 'em and hate 'em. Anyway, it's back ready for use this evening. I changed the pump to the newer style (had a spare), and selected what should be an updated machine control board from the spares. Will be interesting to see what differences may be in the cycle sequences. For sure the post-spin fluff should be reduced from 30 seconds to 8 seconds. |
Post# 806906 , Reply# 23   1/31/2015 at 16:03 (3,343 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
I peeled the (strongly-adhesive) overlay off the bad panel. Beneath it is basically an extension of the ribbon cable (also securely adhered) with mechanical momentary-contact switches for each selector button and associated LEDs. There are seven extra LEDS that aren't visible through the overlay.
View Full Size
|
Post# 807015 , Reply# 24   2/1/2015 at 07:12 (3,343 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 807018 , Reply# 25   2/1/2015 at 07:39 (3,343 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 807020 , Reply# 26   2/1/2015 at 07:52 (3,343 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|