Thread Number: 58345  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Speed Queen Rinse Temp Modification Instructions
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Post# 808638   2/10/2015 at 12:17 (3,334 days old) by Pendelton ()        

Rinse temperature modification instructions for the Speed Queen AWN542S

After this simple wiring alteration your machines rinse temperature will match all wash temperature settings.

This same alteration may work for other Speed Queen models or even other manufactures models but I can make no assurances of that being true.

Experienced tradesmen or handyman will find these instructions overly detailed however please understand that I wrote this with the novice in mind because I would like as many people as possible to be able to use and enjoy this great American made machine in the way that the engineers who designed and built it intended it would be used.

These directions were written for the Speed Queen AWN542S assuming the person doing the repair is standing in front of the machine at the time of the repair.

Time needed is approximately 1/2 hour.

CAUTION: UNPLUG THE POWER CORD BEFORE YOU START!

1. PULL THE PLUG! Cut any electrical connection to the washer before you do anything else.

2. Using a mirror and light, locate the 3 vertical sheet metal screws at the top/rear of the control panel console. You only need to remove 3 screws, one in the middle and one at each end. All three screws are vertical. There are a total of 5 vertical screws along the top rear of the control console but 2 of them do not need to be removed.  The three screws you will remove are the the ones located in the 'cutouts' (you'll understand when you see it) and sit deeper than the 2 screws that you will not remove. (On my machine the two higher screws are contacting paint while the 3 screws you need to remove are contacting unpainted galvanized steel.)  
Using a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet, remove the screws turning them to the LEFT (counter clockwise) to loosen.

Once the screws are removed and the console is loose, very gently roll the top of the console back towards you paying very close attention to any strain on the wires inside. Don’t ever place a strain on any wires.

3. Use the pliers to pull the Black/Pink wire off of terminal #4 and then tape it securely with electrical tape, covering it so that it can never come in contact with any metal surface. Fold it over and tape it again to be sure. Use a very small electrical zip tie to secure the tape so that it will never come loose.  After tightening, cut off the excess end of the zip tie.

4. Locate the grey wire, which you will notice goes down the thru-hole to the motor with the rest of the wires. When you cut the grey wire, cut it far enough to your right so that you leave the grey wire leading up out of the thru-hole long enough that it has plenty of slack when it attaches to terminal #4 in order to avoid ever having a strain on it which could cause you much grief later on. This will leave the grey wire leading from the timer short so add wire to it using a 12 inch piece of either grey or yellow (grey is hard to find so I suggest yellow as there is no other yellow wire in the harness) wire using an 18 gauge insulated butt-splice crimp connector. Strip 3/8 inch of plastic off of each wire for the butt connection.

5. Locate the single grey wire that leads up from the thru-hole and strip ¼ inch of plastic covering off of the end. Twist the wire strands together and insert it into the 18 gauge female connector opening and crimp it, then connect it to terminal 4.

6. Use the pliers to pull the black/blue wire off of terminal L and cut off the connector as close as you can in order to leave the wire as long as possible. Strip 1/4 inch of the plastic cover off and twist the wire strands. Join (twist together) the black/blue wire to the grey (or now yellow) wire that leads from the timer mechanism and insert both into the 16 gauge female connector and crimp together. (if you like you can trim some of the extra wire from the 12 inch piece that you added earlier before you join it with the black/blue wire but make sure you don’t cut it too short) Now that the black/blue wire and the grey (or now yellow) wire are joined, connect to L.

This is how it should look when you’re finished:

A. The grey wire that leads up from thru hole is connected to 4.
B. The red wire never moves from terminal 3.
C. The black/pink wire is securely tapped off and out of the way.
D. The black/blue + Grey (or now yellow) wire from timer is connected to L.

To button up, carefully roll the console panel back into place while taking care to not pinch or strain any wires. In order to avoid striping the screw hole threads, use only your fingers and the ¼ inch socket (without the socket handle or ratchet) to start the screws back into their holes. When starting the screws into their holes it helps to very gently rock the console ends back and forth just a bit to help the screws find their grooves and avoid cross threading. Turn RIGHT to tighten (clockwise) and finger tighten as much as possible. Once all three screws are in finger tight, snug them up with the 1/4 inch open-end box-end wrench. Remember to tighten VERY gently and only tighten them only until you feel a very small resistance.  DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

Tools and parts you will need:

One female 18 gauge non-insulated push on wire connector
One female 16 gauge non-insulated push on wire connector
One male push on wire connector
One 18 gauge insulated butt connector.
A work light
A wire stripper
A wire crimper
A small pair of square nose pliers
A small wire cutter
A 1/4 inch open-end or box-end wrench
A 1/4 inch socket with a driver and extension
A 12 inch piece of grey or yellow insulated 18 gauge stranded insulated wire
A pair of scissors
Electrical tape
One very small electrical zip tie to cinch around the end of the taped up back/pink wire.



Tips:
1. Sometimes wire connectors have hidden burrs on them so you should ‘exercise’ the wire connectors before you start by inserting a male connector into the female connector to insure that there are no burrs in the female connector. You’ll only be installing the female connectors onto the terminals but a male is needed for the exercise. By fitting them together once or twice you’ll remove any burrs which will make connecting them to the washers terminals much gentler, greatly lessening the risk of doing any harm to a terminal. Another good reason for performing this exercise is that by doing so you're doing a quality check to unsure that the connector you're about to crimp to a wire doesn't have a manufacturing flaw that makes it unusable, forcing you to cut it off and do it again.

2. Because insulated connectors are a bit more common you might find it easier to find and buy insulated connectors and then use a sharp knife to cut the plastic insulation off. Remember to leave the insulation on the butt connector. High heat connectors are probably the best quality.

3. Using a sharp knife to cut off the plastic wire covering is a very common rookie mistake and a bad idea. (believe me, I know this well.  Learn from my mistakes) It’s very difficult for a novice to strip wire with a knife without cutting some of the copper strands and you don’t want to lose any so make sure you use a good quality wire stripper to cut the plastic wire insulation. Once you cut the plastic, gently pull the cut plastic off with your fingers rather than using the stripper to pull the plastic off because you'll lose far fewer wire strands by using your fingers.

4. Don't use a ratchet handle to tighten sheet metal screws as doing so often results in stripped threads. Use a small box-end or open ended wrench and apply pressure very gently.

5. If you intend to leave your washer in place for this repair (as I did) you’ll find a mirror very handy to see where the screws are located on the back of the control panel.

CAUTION: UNPLUG THE POWER CORD BEFORE YOU START


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This post was last edited 02/10/2015 at 14:26



Post# 808651 , Reply# 1   2/10/2015 at 14:44 (3,334 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Nice mod

jetcone's profile picture

Dave, welcome to AW too !

 

I'm gonna look at the harness in my Imperial FL and see if they are similar.

 

 



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