Thread Number: 58951
/ Tag: Wringer Washers
My latest restoration project - - - Maytag Model 90 Wringer Washer |
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Post# 815159   3/22/2015 at 16:23 (3,293 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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Hello everybody,
Thought I'd share with those interested - my latest restoration project is taking place at the West Coast Railway Heritage Park. I'm working on a Maytag Model 90, which has some significant differences from the Model 30, particularly those of the power unit (transmission) and shift lever, shape of the wringer assembly (it has a visible drain board below the lower roll), as well differences with the base and motor mount arrangement. I'm still awaiting word on the manufacture date (thank you in advance, Geoff D!), but Model 90s were in production between 1927 and 1930. There will be photos and videos documenting the restoration process, so that there will be a record not only for me, but also for the museum archives. This is sort of a dream-come-true for me ... doing what I love to do on somebody else's budget. Of course, I am donating my time, which I estimate will be about 48 hours. Hope you enjoy viewing the progress! P.S. If anybody has spare parts for the Model 90, I need to replace the wringer guide bar that clips onto the two screws at each end of the housing. CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK
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Post# 815250 , Reply# 1   3/23/2015 at 00:52 (3,293 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 815269 , Reply# 2   3/23/2015 at 05:40 (3,292 days old) by CHRISTFR (st louis mo)   |   | |
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Post# 815315 , Reply# 3   3/23/2015 at 10:28 (3,292 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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Hey Stan ... not sure if the Model 90 came with a pump option, but the Model 30 definitely did. I've been searching for one, but missed a couple on ebay, as they were too far away and price was too high.
I've attached a few pics of Model 30WP (W-with P-pump). Interesting, later Maytag dropped the "W" in the model numbers with pump (eg. E2LP, J2LP, N2LP). |
Post# 815339 , Reply# 4   3/23/2015 at 13:41 (3,292 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 815468 , Reply# 5   3/23/2015 at 22:59 (3,292 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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I do the best I can - but I can tell you that this project is especially fun as I have access to power tools! I'm working in a nice, warm workshop with access to grinders, polishers, sanders and more! And I don't have to put all my work away when I'm finished for the night.
One thing early on that I would like to share with those interested in old wringer washers - I was able to rejuvenate the top (soft) wringer roll that initially appeared to be disintegrated. Using a belt sander, I slowly rotated the roll, moving it also from side to side and just look at this before-and-after shot ... The machine had been left in the hot sun and the top roller was literally bubbled and melted onto the lower one. By removing the outer 1/8" or so, I got down to perfectly good, sound rubber.
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Post# 815483 , Reply# 6   3/24/2015 at 00:32 (3,292 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 816022 , Reply# 8   3/27/2015 at 01:41 (3,289 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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Hey Jeff ... to answer your questions, yes to both. To my knowledge, the color was always a light gray and from what I've learned, it changed to a grayish-green with the Models A and 30. That is why for this restoration, I have chosen a dove-gray shade, and I'll be using the red script lettering for the front decal.
Regarding decals, Maytag did change them within the same model number. Kevin Fisher is my source for authentic decals (he's a member of the Maytag Collector's Club). Here's the link to the list of decals for various models... CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK
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Post# 818367 , Reply# 9   4/10/2015 at 00:01 (3,275 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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After 3 weeks, the restoration job is completed. I feel very honored in that the museum is going to have an official "unveiling" party on April 17, presenting my work to employees and fellow volunteers!
As a note, my original estimate of 48 hours work turned into 83 hours! More pics and video posted on Flickr, should you be interested in seeing more. CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK |
Post# 818369 , Reply# 10   4/10/2015 at 00:20 (3,275 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)   |   | |
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Post# 818384 , Reply# 11   4/10/2015 at 03:36 (3,275 days old) by Gpevas (Parma Heights Ohio )   |   | |
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Post# 818411 , Reply# 12   4/10/2015 at 07:51 (3,274 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 818434 , Reply# 13   4/10/2015 at 09:38 (3,274 days old) by countryguy (Astorville, ON, Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 818440 , Reply# 14   4/10/2015 at 10:11 (3,274 days old) by stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)   |   | |
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Post# 818451 , Reply# 15   4/10/2015 at 10:51 (3,274 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 818466 , Reply# 16   4/10/2015 at 12:07 (3,274 days old) by rpms (ontario canada)   |   | |
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Post# 818533 , Reply# 17   4/10/2015 at 16:30 (3,274 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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@rpms Brian, I think it would be worth a try for any rollers that have surface damage. As long as the shaft is still firmly attached to the roll, nothing really to lose in trying. In the case of this restoration, I thought the upper roll was beyond help and yet it turned out beautifully.
One thing I would caution against is sanding down much more than 1/8" (that makes a total reduction in diameter of 1/4"), as that could affect the effectiveness of the preset tension on a Maytag. Although, you could tighten the tension spring nuts to compensate. I've also lightly sanded the rollers on my 1948 Kenmore and it made them look better, but then they weren't in bad shape to begin with. |
Post# 818550 , Reply# 18   4/10/2015 at 16:50 (3,274 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 818588 , Reply# 19   4/10/2015 at 17:57 (3,274 days old) by pushtorelease (Toronto, ON)   |   | |
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Post# 818664 , Reply# 20   4/10/2015 at 23:04 (3,274 days old) by spiralator60 (Los Angeles)   |   | |
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Congratulations, Brad, the finished job looks fantastic! |
Post# 818781 , Reply# 21   4/11/2015 at 12:35 (3,273 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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The museum is located in Squamish, about 45 minutes north of the city on Hwy 99. Let me know when you're in town - we could meet for a drink if you like.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK |
Post# 818786 , Reply# 22   4/11/2015 at 13:10 (3,273 days old) by pushtorelease (Toronto, ON)   |   | |
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Post# 819615 , Reply# 23   4/17/2015 at 00:08 (3,268 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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for answering the pump question, and for posting the pic of the WP model. Wonder if a pump could be added to either model? You know.. like adding a pump to a E model.
There's one about a hour away from me for $100.00 that I've had my eye on. (Without pump) They look like there a little easier to work on than a E? And you've inspired me to take on a project LOL. Good luck tomorrow. You did a really good job, your machine is purty purty ! |
Post# 1044429 , Reply# 25   9/10/2019 at 12:53 (1,660 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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First off, Carolyn - welcome to the website! Hopefully you will find this club as useful and fun as I have!
If the cracks are only surface ones with some rough spots, you could probably lightly sand the rolls by hand. I stand a roll on its end and maintain the curve of the sandpaper to the roll as I do the sanding. Depending upon the depth of the cracks, you may want to consider an electric belt sander, but caution is required so as not to remove too much material - and also it must be done uniformly (of course.) For the Model 90, I used a stationary belt sander and slowly and evenly rotated the roll. You definitely don't want to take off too much material on Maytag rolls, as reducing the diameter will affect the pressure when applied (as there is no way to increase pressure on a Maytag.) Another method of repair that I've done with some success is by using an RTV rubber/silicone to fill in the cracks. Black "PERMATEX" silicone is good for the upper black roll in a Maytag. You could use a clear equivalent for the beige rolls on other machines. I've also used E6000 adhesive for this purpose. Hope that helps! Best of success! -Brad |