Thread Number: 59025
/ Tag: Wanted to Buy Items
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Post# 815864 , Reply# 1   3/26/2015 at 07:14 (3,312 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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Welcome to the site, caramiame! I see you've already been checking out some of the posts about the GE wall refrigerators - there's been a bit written on the subject...
I own a 1956 version of the GE LW11 refrigerator - mine was, unbelievably, never used until I got it. However after about 3 years in service, it quit on me. It would no longer start - the compressor motor would hum then click off immediately. In my case, it turned out to be the resistor you have identified in your post. I got lucky and found an original NIB GE replacement and that solved the problem. I know of two other people who had the same problem (not on the board) where a new 9-ohm resistor got their refrigerator running again.
The resistor was only used on the 1955 and 1956 wall refrigerators - I don't have detailed service information, but one of the uses of this resistor was to power the two-phase condenser fan motor. GE really went out of their way to make this compressor complicated!!
From 1957 to 1960 the refrigerators used a different start relay and condenser fan setup - these were much easier to repair and find parts for (I briefly owned a 1957 model when I thought my 56 was kaput).
Based on what you have described about the 1st non-working refrigerator, I'd have to take a chance on it just being that 9-ohm resistor. However, if the second one is already working AND a later model, this may be a better bet in the long run.
To help you find out for sure what year the refrigerators are, check the model number - a tag should be on the lower left side of the refrigerator compartment. There is a letter after the LW11 that will identify the year of manufacture as follows:
'M' = 1955 'N' = 1956 'P' = 1957 'R' = 1958 'S' = 1959 'T' = 1960
Consider the relative condition of the refrigerators, too. The molded door shelves are prone to damage over the years. If you can manage buying both, it's never a bad idea to have a source of hard-to-find parts like the fruit/vegetable slider doors or egg trays!
Final word on my rant here - the cold controls on GE's of this era are iffy. On the working model, make sure it is cycling on and off properly. The good news is that they can be replaced but may need some tweaking to make sure they're registering the refrigerator compartment temperature correctly.
Hope this helps! |
Post# 815872 , Reply# 2   3/26/2015 at 08:43 (3,312 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Post# 815933 , Reply# 4   3/26/2015 at 15:11 (3,311 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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Caramiame, I am not sure what the 1955 interior colour was. White was used in the 1959 and 1960 models (1957 and 1958's were pink, and the 56 is turquoise). I had always guessed the 55's were turquoise too, but I can't be sure...
One thing about the bracket - there are two metal straps that are attached to the rear of the bracket. They go over the top of the refrigerator and are attached to clamps under the service panel. They are needed to help stabilize the refrigerator, so make sure that whoever removes the refrigerator doesn't cut them off. |
Post# 816046 , Reply# 7   3/27/2015 at 08:44 (3,311 days old) by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK)   |   | |
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Post# 816047 , Reply# 8   3/27/2015 at 08:53 (3,311 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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I second what Al says! That's an all-GE metal cabinet kitchen - I see what looks to be the original wall oven and pull-out dishwasher, too. It's probably a good thing that I'm far away from this... LOL
Based on the style of the dishwasher, I'm thinking the kitchen is pre-1957, so the fridge may indeed be a 1955 model.
The refrigerator model number should start with LW-11; if it helps, here's a photo of the location of the model tag from the 1957 model I no longer have. Note the plate in the lower left, inside the fruit and vegetables compartment. You can also get a glimpse of the plate for yours in picture number 5 attached in the post showing the rest of the kitchen.
Good luck and keep us posted!
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Post# 816064 , Reply# 9   3/27/2015 at 11:23 (3,310 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Post# 816065 , Reply# 10   3/27/2015 at 11:32 (3,310 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Post# 816492 , Reply# 13   3/29/2015 at 22:04 (3,308 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 816525 , Reply# 14   3/30/2015 at 08:00 (3,308 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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Post# 816535 , Reply# 15   3/30/2015 at 10:05 (3,308 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Post# 816549 , Reply# 16   3/30/2015 at 12:32 (3,307 days old) by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK)   |   | |
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Cara
I would like to join my fellows in offering my sympathies over this aborted sale - at the very least I would give him negative feed back. Certainly sounds like you had a lucky escape for even at $2500 you could still have considerably more to spend to get it into order. But take heart - as has been noted above these do crop up reasonably often, keep your eyes peeled here, ebay, craigslist and also check real estate listings in your area with a particular emphasis of homes built between 1955 and 1965 which are most likely to have had this type of kitchen built in. If you feel so inclined, once the property sells you can always drop a note through the door stating your interest in the kitchen. If concerned about your privacy (as we all should be) set up a Hotmail or gmail account and buy a cheap "pay as you go" cell phone specifically for the purpose of receiving emails and calls arising from such enquiries. Good luck, your "new" kitchen is waiting out there for you, I hope it does not take too long for it to turn up. Al |