Thread Number: 59031  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag A806 very hard on clothing
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Post# 815924   3/26/2015 at 14:21 (3,311 days old) by floyde (Los Angeles, CA)        

I am the proud owner of a Maytag A806 from 1979 that Kevin helped me get last Spring.

I've noticed that that I'm getting holes in underwear and today an expensive pillowcase less then a year old is shredded at the ends. I don't use chlorine bleach so it's not from that. Also t-shirts (tank style) are getting wider and wider.

Has anyone else seen excessive wear on these clothes from the agitator?

I thought these machines were supposed to be relatively gentle.


Any comment from you Maytag lovers are appreciated.





Post# 815934 , Reply# 1   3/26/2015 at 15:12 (3,311 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
even if you overloaded, these machines would 'give in' to the load to save wear on the machine....

pull the agitator, and check for any sort of hangnail sticking out that may be snagging on clothing, as well as the inner tub.....

just uncommon for this type of machine....


Post# 815935 , Reply# 2   3/26/2015 at 15:14 (3,311 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
just a suggestion here...

hippiedoll's profile picture
I'm no expert here but,
could it be that you aren't filling the machine with enough water??

One mistake I made when I was washing a set of delicate curtains was I filled the machine to a medium sized load (because that's where the curtains reached on the agitator) and I set the washer on "DELICATE", thinking this was how I was supposed to use the "SLOW" speed to wash. Well my curtains came out partly shredded.
But come to find out, when you use the "DELICATE/GENTLE" cycle, you're supposed to use the "EXTRA LARGE" load water level to get the true "GENTLE" washing action.

Is this what you're doing too??


Post# 815936 , Reply# 3   3/26/2015 at 15:15 (3,311 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine)        

wayupnorth's profile picture
I wonder if the agitator was damaged somehow and there may be sort of a shredding of the vanes that could catch and damage clothes. I saw that happen before and once the agitator was sanded down smooth in those rough places, the problem went away.

Post# 815938 , Reply# 4   3/26/2015 at 15:32 (3,311 days old) by nmassman44 (Brooksville Florida)        

nmassman44's profile picture
Here's my two cents....I would check the agitator to see if you have any rough areas on the wash vanes. That can happen when one doesn't close zippers and they get down to the base of the agitator and it roughs up the edges of the vanes. Next I would look at loading. With a Maytag washer one drops the clothes in loosely and only loads to the top row of holes for a full load. Do not pack or wrap the clothes around the agitator.
I have had Maytag washers in the past...an A510, A613 and an LAT 9356 and with all those machines, never had an issue like this happening to laundry. I also never overloaded those machines either and always got great results.


Post# 815942 , Reply# 5   3/26/2015 at 16:03 (3,311 days old) by floyde (Los Angeles, CA)        
yes loading it proper

Well, I checked originally and went over the agitator again and it's as smooth as a baby's bottom. This machine got very little use from what I understand. It came from a house in Palm Springs and for all the years was only used a couple months out of the year.

I'm very careful about closing zippers and button on clothing . I have never even used the extra large load selector, as I always under load it if anything. This was a bottom sheet and 5 pillow cases. One pillow case came out in really bad shape. As I said it was a thicker pillow case more like a shame and it just shredded the edge where it is sewn to overlap the case.

The items where placed in quarter sections and not wrapped around the agitator.

I had it serviced when I got it with new belts, could it be that the agitator
is moving too many fast? I don't know if there is any any adjustment you can make.

With only a 10 minute wash it seems that this wouldn't happen.


Post# 815949 , Reply# 6   3/26/2015 at 16:33 (3,311 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
A Maytag

Usually is too gentle if anything,I always thought their action was slow.

Post# 815954 , Reply# 7   3/26/2015 at 16:53 (3,311 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        
I am sorry for your fabric damage

Maytags' action might be slow, but they can be rough on clothing because they have very aggressive agitator action at the bottom of the tub, even with the Power Fin agitator, and, unless underloaded with fabrics and filled with water, don't have the greatest turnover. Sometime in the late 60s or early 70s, CU tested single speed washers with casement weave curtains, sorta net looking things, and they had a picture of how the Maytag had distorted and pulled snags in the piece washed in it.

When John worked at Lanham Maytag, he washed his work clothes in his Kenmore combo while Bill and Bob's wives washed their shirts in their Maytags. John's shirts lasted a lot longer, which they probably would have anyway in a front loader, but the Maytags did put some serious wear on things.

Have you checked the tub for any rough places since you know that the agitator is smooth?


Post# 815976 , Reply# 8   3/26/2015 at 18:51 (3,311 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
That makes sense..

The clothes at the bottom are drug back and forth while the ones on top just set there...


Post# 815978 , Reply# 9   3/26/2015 at 19:02 (3,311 days old) by floyde (Los Angeles, CA)        
Only thing different

I used Borax and wanted it well resolved so I added the clothes after agitation began. It wasn't agitating while I was adding clothes though.

So does it do better on more water and less clothes or just an average load with right amount of water?

Usually I have what I would consider more water in the tub than the ratio of clothes in the tub.


Post# 815979 , Reply# 10   3/26/2015 at 19:07 (3,311 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

kenmoreguy89's profile picture
I heard about some agitator configurations not being good to some kind of clothes, like catching and pulling in the fins, maytag fins might do that to some thin fibers and yes like large net fibers as fins are not attached to the base but are flexible to some extent, though that is something that usually happens as you overload and or underfill it..and not so likely.
Said this I always heard about maytags as well designed in this sense... pretty gentle yet effective.
The sort of damage you describe sounds more like a rough tub damage than agitator, especially if you have checked it, not much about the holes but what makes me think it's rather the ends of clothes you mention which if I have understand are chewed and "grated", these are usually the tails, collars and endings or high ground sewing that are the most rigid parts on the clothes and the ones that would swish against the tub with a greater "resistance" than the softer more flixible parts (not sure if resistance is the right word to use here).
I recall I've read something on a guy who tried to descale and remove rust on the machine with some kind of acid product, the guy filled it put the acid and let it sit overnight, while the acid cleaned the tub and the outter tub very well he claimed that after that his machine has never been the same and actually started to give the same kind of damage you describe, it turns out that the kind of acid he used was hydrofluoric acid which is a common rust remover ingredient, and that kind of roughened up the porcelain that is worked and meant to be smooth and not create friction with the clothes..
Porcelain, especially the one used in washing machines will stand and resist many acids, but if there is one acid that porcelain will not tolerate it's right the hydrofluoric.
So I would compare your tub to the one of another similar Maytag if you have a chance, they usually are very shiney, if it's dull then maybe that's the problem..some previous owner may have done the same thing...






This post was last edited 03/26/2015 at 19:41
Post# 815981 , Reply# 11   3/26/2015 at 19:15 (3,311 days old) by whirlykenmore78 (Prior Lake MN (GMT-0500 CDT.))        
MT Powerfin wash action is deceiveing:

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It appears very gentle on the top of the drum as there are no fins on the agitator post. However the turbulence at the bottom of the drum is extremely powerful despite the slow agitation. While many may not believe it these machinse are more likely to shred clothes than a DD Whirlpool.
Combine the fact that the base fins had to do all of the work in these machines and because of this the turnover was very slow resulting in clothes spending too much time in the Robot-Coupe zone it only makes sense that things would get shredded.WK78


Post# 815982 , Reply# 12   3/26/2015 at 19:22 (3,311 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        
Also....

kenmoreguy89's profile picture
They never gave me the impression of being slow, as you have to imagine what happens under not judge by what you see above, and I see a good wash action down there.
The fact is that these are machine to use with clothes put really freely and with high water level in order to gurantee proper turnover.


Post# 815987 , Reply# 13   3/26/2015 at 20:03 (3,311 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Traditionally, Maytag washers had fewer oscillations per minute than, for example, WP machines until the advent of the DD and Orbital machines. The machines with the Power Fin agitators used a slightly increased agitation speed over the older machines with the Bakelite agitators.

Post# 815998 , Reply# 14   3/26/2015 at 21:21 (3,311 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        

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Since everyone is baggin' on Maytag's I'll throw in my 2 cents(that's all I can afford). My parents have been using the A806 that I went through for them since July 2012 and they've never had even the smallest issue with it. It seems to do an excellent job and the few times I've stood there and watched it work the turnover during agitation is strong. Last year we took down a bunch of white lace curtains from the windows upstairs and down at my parents house(all told more than a dozen sets) and washed them on the gentle cycle. These curtains are decades old and half of them hang in direct sunlight, so they should be a bit on the delicate side, yet they emerged from the wash clean and undamaged. Obviously it'd be foolish of me to argue with those who claim to have had a different experience and call them liars, but I can say that I haven't seen the problems being described. (knock on wood) I'm very happy with my old Maytag.


Post# 815999 , Reply# 15   3/26/2015 at 21:33 (3,311 days old) by washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai’i)        

washerlover's profile picture
Wow, I am surprised to hear that a Maytag would do something like that. Being a Norge/Wards fan and owner, given their vigorous and rapid agitation, have never had anything torn apart or shredded. And the Maytags I have owned and still own have never given me trouble in that area. As stated in the previous posts, Maytags are one of the more gentle machines I have experienced. Please keep us posted..!

Post# 816000 , Reply# 16   3/26/2015 at 21:34 (3,311 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
If you want to see

Something hard on clothes, get a 20 pound tub Norge!!!!It is great for nasty work clothes, but boy does it really wash!


Post# 816037 , Reply# 17   3/27/2015 at 07:26 (3,310 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Maytag Washer Agitation

combo52's profile picture

It is well documented that MT washers can be fairly hard on clothing compared to most other brands of washers built during the same time period.  That said they can be successfully used without destroying your wardrobe, as millions of owners have proved.

 

But the fact remains that MT Automatics always had problems with fabric damage complaints from the very first automatics built, [ I worked for A MT Home Appliance store in the early 70s and our MT rep shared a lot of letters that MT got from consumers about clothing damage, it was a constant problem for MT when consumers switched to MT washers ] the agitator was simply too big for their small diameter tubs, this coupled with the long stroke and squared off fins was not a good design. MTs orignal agitator was designed for a square wringer washer tub and it worked quite well in this application.

 

MT never had a decent agitator in an automatic washer [ that they designed and built ] till they came out with the Load Sensor Agitator in the last helical drive machines.

 

Yes even a Norge 20LB washer washing along at high speed will not do the damage that a Power-Finn MT agitator will do to a load of clothing, Consumer Reports proved this years ago.


Post# 816051 , Reply# 18   3/27/2015 at 09:20 (3,310 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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your talking normal speed and pulley of a regular Maytag......

with the help of Ben, mine is turbocharged, one speed, and have yet to see any fabric damage...and mind you this agitation is kicked up....

there can be a wide range of variables that can cause issues of fabric damage...






Post# 816069 , Reply# 19   3/27/2015 at 12:06 (3,310 days old) by floyde (Los Angeles, CA)        
I think I know what happened

I have a feeling the pillow case got caught under the fitted sheet and was at the bottom of the agitator and really took a beating. I love my Maytag and have about $800 invested in the matching pair between the cost of them, delivery, and a once over maintenance so I definitely want them to work well for me.

I'm just using the washer as the dryer is electric and have not got a setup for that.

I will keep updated on any further damage. I felt the tub and it's smooth although doesn't have a shine to it. But I figured after 36 years that would probably be gone. Am I not correct.

This group is wonderful!


Post# 816074 , Reply# 20   3/27/2015 at 12:57 (3,310 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
hey floyde...

hippiedoll's profile picture
did you know what size of load you had before filling the washer??

Here's a suggestion, to try avoid damaging clothes and if you want to use borax again;
put the clothes in the washer first, to see what size of load you have. Select the correct water level. Take the clothes out of the washer, and fill the machine with water and add the borax. Let the machine agitate to dissolve the powder borax, and then add the clothes back in to the washer filled with the water.
This way, you'll know you have the right amount of water for the load.
Just a suggestion....

I hope this helps
;o)


Post# 816083 , Reply# 21   3/27/2015 at 14:04 (3,310 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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I usually pull the filter out and dump the detergent and additives down the center, then replace the filter.....

this was always the suggestions of using a Maytag at a Laundromat.....

note: commercial/Laundromat machines never used a lint filter, just a trim cap on top, and hollow down through the center.....yet, did anyone complain of linty clothing?...


Post# 816087 , Reply# 22   3/27/2015 at 14:18 (3,310 days old) by murando531 (Augusta, Georgia - US)        

murando531's profile picture

I can attest to the power of that Power Fin agitator. My aunt on my dad's side had a lower end A-series I believe, can't recall any actual model number because I was very young, and she replaced it with a KitchenAid similar to the one we had growing up. I remember her complaining about certain garments getting stretched in places, but I don't remember if anything tore. Her problem however is that she and all of that family of four have absolutely no care at all if things like laundry or dishwashing are done right; as far as they're concerned, if you pack the washer with clothes and dump a scoop or cap of detergent in, and the washer has run, the clothes are "clean". She would overload it every time I ever saw the machine run, and the load would slowly, but surely, roll, but with a lot of rocking back and forth. The transmission ended up giving out on the poor thing. Not sure what ended up happening to the KitchenAid either, because she hasn't had it in years, in place of the Maytag Performa with a straight vane agitator that they have now. I myself have already replaced a belt and the pump on that specific machine, and I honestly don't give it very many more years to run.

 

I can also attest to the Load-Sensor agitator that my Atlantis, currently powering through loads upon loads of my father-in-law's family's many clothes, and its success. I think the low-profile fins on that machine in addition to the broad spirals on the upper-agitator are what does such a good job with rollover and gentle performance.


Post# 816088 , Reply# 23   3/27/2015 at 14:30 (3,310 days old) by floyde (Los Angeles, CA)        

I usually do put the soap in the middle of the agitator. I bought some Tide powder and wanted to see how it sudsed up as well!LOL!

Christina your A806 is as old or older does the porcelain tub still have a shine or is it dull?

Thanks, Floyd


Post# 816090 , Reply# 24   3/27/2015 at 14:42 (3,310 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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I knew John couldn't resist letting this one go by. Lol. ;) I'll give you a call sometime, John. It's been a long time.

B.

p.s. Don't discredit yourself too much, Christina. You've been hanging around AW for awhile now. :)


Post# 816097 , Reply# 25   3/27/2015 at 15:44 (3,310 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Ran into a family friend some years ago during a haircut appt.  I don't know how washers came up as a topic (maybe something was already being discussed in that area before the friend came in).  Anyway, Linda said she always wanted a Maytag so bought one and it stretched her knit sweaters all to hell so she demanded the dealer take it back for something else (I don't recall what).  Previous washers I know she had were a 1960s FilterFlo followed by a 1974 Whirly.


Post# 816188 , Reply# 26   3/28/2015 at 00:53 (3,310 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

I can remember a demo years back of a Maytag Load Sensor agitator-was at the Wards store in Manassas,Va.They showed that the agitator could safely agitate light bulbs without breaking them!But clothes aren't light bulbs!I used to have fast short stroke Maytag and it did a great job of shredding some of my clothes.Like the DD KN traded it in at the swap shop for a BD KN or WP-no more clothes shredding!Those fast stroke machines work more like blenders than washers!Well,if you need to clean your light bulbs-maybe the Load Sensor is for you!

Post# 816198 , Reply# 27   3/28/2015 at 02:24 (3,309 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
thanks beekeyknee....

hippiedoll's profile picture
But I am definitely still in the learning stages, Roger can be witness to that. I am just not mechanically-gifted. And sometimes me & Roger get a good laugh at the questions I come up with when we're talking!
Hm hm hm...
but I'm learning
;o)

floyde...
My 806 tub is shiney but, to be honest, there are some dull looking spots on the bottom of the tub. At first I thought it was like a dried on residue of soapy water or something. But I couldn't wipe the spots away. So im not sure what those dull-looking spots could be from? Maybe from the previous owner soaking clothes with bleach??
:o/


Post# 816212 , Reply# 28   3/28/2015 at 06:00 (3,309 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Christina,

We all start somewhere. I'm glad Floyde is near by to help you. I would love to share the things I've learned with others and vice versa, but Columbia is a small place comparatively. If I knew someone near by with the same interests and a good workshop I would jump at the chance to learn more.

I would like to spend more time on other brands of washers as well as stoves, refrigerators, etc. I'd love to work on old Frigidaires and Kenmores. The small place in my garage isn't very satisfactory and my utility room is small so I wouldn't get to take advantage of machines I restored. Maybe some day, if I'm lucky. :)

Brian

p.s. The dull spots on your tub may be hard water deposits. They may come off eventually, depending on what they are. Try laying some terry cloth towels wet with vinegar over them to soak or rubbing the spots with some light cut swirl remover.

Sorry, I ment Roger, not Floyd.





This post was last edited 03/28/2015 at 11:12
Post# 816404 , Reply# 29   3/29/2015 at 10:41 (3,308 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        
PLEASE

DO NOT SOAK WITH VINEGAR IN A PORCELAIN WASHER TUB! The most vulnerable part of the porcelain coating in a washer tub is at the edge of the tub holes. Vinegar will damage that in no time and then you will get orange spots on loads when you use chlorine bleach or if you allow clothes to remain in the tub after the cycle is finished.

If you want to see if those spots might be mineral deposits, wipe them with a vinegar-soaked cloth and instantly rinse them.


Post# 816408 , Reply# 30   3/29/2015 at 11:09 (3,308 days old) by brucelucenta ()        

Actually, if a washer has NEVER had anything but REGULAR soap and bleach designed for washing machines put in it and nothing else, the porcelain tub should still shine like a mirror. I have seen tubs that people have used their own concoctions of vinegar, baking soda, ect...and the tubs have completely lost the shine and some have actually had the porcelain eaten away down to the bare metal. The tubs were like sand paper inside and would ruin clothes.

Post# 816428 , Reply# 31   3/29/2015 at 14:16 (3,308 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

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Now that I've read this thread and reflected on it, to the best of my recollection, I never saw any clothing damage when we had GE machines; the edges of the Activators in our machines were very rounded and there weren't any extra "ears", fins or other protrusions to catch clothes. Also, the Bakelite was very hard and wore down very slowly. Another possible factor is that, if you've ever watched an early FF with the spiral activator do its thing, the first, hard stroke is a very short back stroke that pulls the load downward. The majority of the force is from the "body" of the activator; not so much from the three fins on the bottom.

 

When I first owned a Maytag, it was an orbital model with the newer version white poly agitator with lots of ridges, four little auxiliary "ears" attached to the post and sharp corners on the bottoms of the "Power Fins". After a little while I noticed holes in sheets and shirts that seemed to increase in number over a long period of time. I changed the agitator to the earlier blue Power Fin version without any ridges or protrusion which improved turnover and seemed to decrease the incidence of damage, but I noticed that the soft polypropylene nicked very easily and left sharp small tears and edges that could catch fabric. One of the things I love about the LG front loader is how gentle it is on almost every material that goes into it. Doesn't generate a lot of lint either; I imagine that was one of the general flaws of any machine with an agitator that oscillated back and forth.


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Post# 816452 , Reply# 32   3/29/2015 at 16:27 (3,308 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
thank you.....

hippiedoll's profile picture
Beekeyknee/brian:
For the advice about the vinegar.
And yes, I am very greatful for Roger; for being so kind & for living close by & for always being willing to come over & share in my enthusiasm & help me.
And I am also very greatful for all of you members here & this OUTTA SIGHT group!

Tomturbomatic:
For chiming in to let me know not to soak but to just wipe with vinegar & rinse immediately. I will be sure to do that.

brucelucenta:
For chiming in to give your insight about other washer tubs that you have seen where others have used their own concoctions other than laundry detergent & regular clothes bleach.
I'm afraid I'm guilty of washing a couple of my own concocted vinegar, baking soda, bleach, and laundry detergent loads in some of my past maytag washers.
:o/
But NOW, I no better!!

Thank you guys for sharing your insights & experiences.

:o)


Post# 816511 , Reply# 33   3/30/2015 at 03:13 (3,307 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

beekeyknee's profile picture
Well, you guys. I've never known vinegar to harm porcelain...but if you say so. What about Lemishine? Or is that too strong? I would have told her to wash clothes in softer water to see if the dullness disappears, but most people don't have a way to change the softness of their water. She could buy a water softener but those are pretty expensive. I think they're worth it but some people don't want to spend the money. She could buy a 50lb bag of STPP and wash in that for a year and see what happens. Looks like it's around $100.00 now. Personally, I'd go for the water softener. Salt is a lot cheaper than STPP. I would imagine the water's probably pretty hard in Tucson.

And by the way, porcelain tubs will loose their shine over time from rubbing, especially from metal zippers not being zipped and metal buttons, among other things.

Oh, I forgot. Remember all the posts about old Maytag washers with the bakelite agitators rubbing off the porcelain around the bottom of the tubs from the vigorous action from the fins that didn't flex on those old agitators. It was just wear and tear over the years.




This post was last edited 03/30/2015 at 03:29
Post# 816515 , Reply# 34   3/30/2015 at 05:09 (3,307 days old) by behzad (Home Appliances Lab)        
This is just my idea,

First I'm so sorry to hear such a bad news, but it totally depends on so many factors.
you can check the whole basket and agitator carefully, just gently rub a piece of towel or woolen cloth and check it for something like chipped or cracked edges of agitators's vanes or alike, do the same for the basket, if the washer has cloth guard-ring on the top of the basket check it too, double check every thing like Miele experts!
just one more, take more care to which garments you'r washing with your shirts. it seems to be such an odd and unusual thing, but I think the hard metal object such as jean's zipper or piece of metal which attached to garments could be the source of trouble!

run it again and again to find the problem.
BJ


Post# 816531 , Reply# 35   3/30/2015 at 09:16 (3,307 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        
vinegar and porcelain

An acid on glass will definitely have the potential to injure it. I remember the use and care manual for GE ranges used to warn users to line the broiler pan with foil before marinating or cooking anything with an acidic marinade or sauce.

Post# 816539 , Reply# 36   3/30/2015 at 10:41 (3,307 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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All of those poor canning jars my Mother used to can pickles and tomatoes in are all but recognizable now. But maybe that's a different kind of glass. I don't know.

Post# 816608 , Reply# 37   3/30/2015 at 18:23 (3,307 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)        

kb0nes's profile picture
Hmm not sure about the concern with acids and glass. Seems to me that with the exception of Hydroflouric acid, glass is pretty impervious. The concentrated Acetic and Hydroflouric acids I have purchased came in glass bottles. I never had any of my glass labware get etched either and that is at elevated temperatures too. Yes it was Borosilicate glass but I don't believe the addition of the boric oxide greatly alters the chemical resistance of soda lime glass. Of course porcelain may not be pure glass so perhaps there is some damage caused by long term exposure. Still low concentrations of vinegar for relatively short duration seems unlikely to cause damage.

I do know that Hydroflouric will harm porcelain in a HURRY. I learned this the hard way when I spilled a little rust remover on our old Whirlpool range top. In the second before I wiped it up I destroyed the gloss...


Post# 816610 , Reply# 38   3/30/2015 at 18:29 (3,307 days old) by floyde (Los Angeles, CA)        
Using vinegar in the rinse cycle

Sometimes I use vinegar in the rinse cycle on whites. Will that harm the tub? What about Arm and Hammer Washing Powder?

Post# 816611 , Reply# 39   3/30/2015 at 18:51 (3,307 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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I've been using an A107 for over 2 years now. Never an issue. Even lace curtains and table cloths have come out fine. LOVE my Maytag!


Post# 816650 , Reply# 40   3/31/2015 at 00:03 (3,307 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

beekeyknee's profile picture
You all keep talking about hydrofloric acid which are considered relatively weak acids. Hydrochloric acids, on the othe hand, are a different story (also known as muriatic acid). They are very strong and should be used in a ventilated area. They are good for cleaning mineral deposits and uric acid build-up off of old vitreous china toilet bowels and tanks and make them run like new again.

I only put the bowel and tank minus the metal parts on a piece of plywood for cleaning. The acid will eat through gravel, concrete and will kill grass. Use a toilet swab and gloves, hold your breath while applying and run away tell the fumes die down, then go back for more applications. After the parts have been cleaned, especially inside the rim and the trap, you can spray everything down with water. Anyone who's restored an old toilet already knows this.

I'd never use this type of acid on porcelain, a sink or tub. It will ruin it.


Post# 816652 , Reply# 41   3/31/2015 at 00:54 (3,307 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

Don't underestimate Hydrofluric acid!In concentrated form it is VERY dangerous.It can cause spontanoius reactions with any organic material-causing it to catch fire or explode!If you get burned by this stuff-it can burn flesh down to the bone in a hurry!Handle Hydrofluric acid CAREFULLY!!!!!The fumes are very dangerous,too-it can burn your lungs and sinuses in a hurry as well.BAD STUFF!!!!Remember it in chemstry class-of course in chemestry class these days bet students will have NO encounters with the main three acids and Hydrofluric acid.Main use was for etching glass-used to be used to etch the inside of light bulbs.

Post# 816654 , Reply# 42   3/31/2015 at 01:33 (3,307 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)        

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My apologies for continuing the off topic discussion.

Hydrochloric acid won't etch glass. It does indeed react vigorously with the calcium in concrete which is why it is a common etchant for concrete. Hydrochloric acid (and Hydrogen Chloride) are common ingredients in toilet bowl cleaners, The ZEP bowl cleaner lists concentration as 5-10% on the MSDS, so I think its safe on porcelain.

Rex is right about Hydrofluoric acid, it is wicked stuff. It is more poisonous and reacts with skin more aggressively when other acids. It is a bit odd because it doesn't attack steel and other metals as aggressively as other acids. It does attack oxides and silicates, which is why it dissolves glass.

Back somewhat on topic, I seriously doubt that pouring a cup of vinegar into a top load washer tub could ever cause harm to the porcelain, unless it was left there a long while. Belt buckles, zippers and clothing rivets are a different story!


Post# 816655 , Reply# 43   3/31/2015 at 01:43 (3,307 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

I am with KB0nes-Acetic acid is quite weak-I can't beleive it could attack porclean washer drums-unless it was left for a VERY long time-and it would have to be the concentrated Glacial stuff at that.The big three acids--Hydrochloric,Sulphuric,and nitric are rough on metals-but not glass and similar materials.But Hydrofluric is a different matter.In the class the stuff was handled in the fume hood!And we couldn't put it in the drains in the school-the chemlab drain pipes were GLASS!!!Had to be put in a poly bottle for special waste handling--this was high school???Oh yes-mix hydrochloric acid and nitric-you get Aqua-Regia-this stuff dissolves gold and platinum!With gold makes a pretty golden solution-used for gold plating and purifying gold.Guess,back to Maytags-the chem part was interesting!

Post# 816679 , Reply# 44   3/31/2015 at 09:54 (3,306 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

I remember in chemistry class the teacher coated the bottom of a glass dish with wax and then wrote our school initials in it with a stylus. She put this over a container with hydrofluoric acid and left it overnight. The next morning, we had the initials etched into the glass.

Porcelains can be formulated in different ways. Some are more acid resistant that others. John has shown me washer tubs rusted out from soaking diapers overnight and that's just uric acid diluted in water. Don't let me stop anyone from using acid on porcelain. I was only trying to save the washer tub. I have seen machines junked with the little tell-tale orange crescents in the bottom of the tub holes that would leave rust spots on clothing. Often they resulted from people adding vinegar to the rinse and then not rinsing again.


Post# 816683 , Reply# 45   3/31/2015 at 10:27 (3,306 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine)        

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The well water at my house is extremely hard with lots of iron. Since moving in 20 years ago, I have put a little Iron Out with the fabric softner in the dispenser of my Maytag and never had a problem with any tub issues. I need to run some Iron Out thru my dishwasher again as I can see rust stains starting to form. Some idiot cleaning company used muratic acid on the showroom floor of the local Ford dealership that caused thousands in damages and the smell lingered for months.

Post# 816701 , Reply# 46   3/31/2015 at 12:20 (3,306 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY)        
Wearing down...

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I've also noticed that the Maytag tubs seemed to be very susceptible to friction wear. I've picked up several that were very dull nearer the bottom of the tub, which to me would indicate more along the lines of abrasion than anything. Either way I can't imagine a dull porcelain inner-basket with water in it damaging clothes. I'm using an early 80's Kenmore BD portable with a 1.5cf tub. I overload it but no damage to anything in over 3 months of use, and that thing has a small diameter and tall FIXED agitator fins.

 

But then again, as a family, we've also never had a WP/KM DD (aka. ShredMore) do any damage to anything that wasn't already on it's way out. Depending on the clothes you buy, some just don't hold up regardless of the washer you use. I've had newer (less than a year old) pants that just sort of dry-rot/tear after a while, but the weakness was with the fabrics breakdown not the washer. My roommate had this happen with some of his vegan clothing at our old house where there were 4 washers hooked up.

 

We may never know...

 

Tim



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