Thread Number: 60393
/ Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
Impulse KitchenAid KDS58 buy needs help! |
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Post# 830459   7/2/2015 at 12:22 (3,192 days old) by Defoedude (Ferguson, MO)   |   | |
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Got this portable Superba at the Florissant Salvation Army a couple weeks ago, great cosmetic condition and clean underside, but I've had my fair share of "fun" with it from cleaning out the valves to causing my sprayer to dribble from underneath flooding my kitchen and basement, and now the lower corners are leaking. The tabs on my lower rack are fine so it must mean my lower door seal needs replacing (and the retainer strip since I cracked it trying to get it out). The Hobart numbers 115756 and 115757 gave me the Whirlpool part numbers 4161509 and 4161510 which apparently are discontinued. Anybody know of a substitute part number or have a donor part I could pay you for? Thanks!
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Post# 830531 , Reply# 1   7/2/2015 at 19:43 (3,192 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 830580 , Reply# 2   7/3/2015 at 09:46 (3,191 days old) by defoedude (Ferguson, MO)   |   | |
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Post# 830588 , Reply# 3   7/3/2015 at 10:51 (3,191 days old) by defoedude (Ferguson, MO)   |   | |
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Post# 830617 , Reply# 5   7/3/2015 at 18:41 (3,191 days old) by defoedude (Ferguson, MO)   |   | |
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Post# 830628 , Reply# 6   7/3/2015 at 20:42 (3,191 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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Where did you get that piece? It looks like the evaporation channel but I always thought they were black. Is it made out of soft rubber? Also does your machine have these little black things in the front corners under the door. They are supposed to help stop leaking.
That looks like a really nice machine. You were lucky to find that. So far all I've found are 20's and up. This post was last edited 07/03/2015 at 22:10 |
Post# 830629 , Reply# 7   7/3/2015 at 20:52 (3,191 days old) by defoedude (Ferguson, MO)   |   | |
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Post# 830631 , Reply# 8   7/3/2015 at 21:04 (3,191 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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I believe when the machine stops filling the float should not have raised high enough to make the float switch click. After its biggest fill you can open the door, raise up on the float and listen for a click. If it has already clicked and you don't hear anything, I think that would be considered an overfill. I doubt that's your problem though.
KitchenAid gurus - Notice I said "I believe" and "I think" so don't crawl my frame if I'm wrong. A correction is fine, though. This post was last edited 07/03/2015 at 21:47 |
Post# 830633 , Reply# 9   7/3/2015 at 21:24 (3,191 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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No, that putty that goes around the bottom of the door where it goes together and those black corner pieces are two different things. Those black corner pieces are held in with stainless steal clips. They are preformed and the clips hold them in place.
I fixed up a 21 that was dripping slightly at the corners and didn't have those pieces so I used some Sugru, formed it, put it place, closed and opened the door so it would form-fit the machine and then left the door open for a couple of days for it to dry. The porcelain has to be completely clean before you stick it on. I ran it once and it worked. Then I gave it to a friend, so I don't know how well it's going to work over the long haul. It seemed stuck on the tank pretty tight, so hopefully it will work well for him. CLICK HERE TO GO TO beekeyknee's LINK |
Post# 830636 , Reply# 10   7/3/2015 at 21:34 (3,191 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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Post# 830639 , Reply# 11   7/3/2015 at 21:46 (3,191 days old) by defoedude (Ferguson, MO)   |   | |
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Post# 830640 , Reply# 12   7/3/2015 at 22:06 (3,191 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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I don't believe so. The water pressure in the hose and at the faucet should be static. The valve controls the amount of water that is released into the machine and that's much slower than water running out of a sink faucet. If it were a valve problem I would suspect an under fill because of a dirty screen or an overflow because of a stuck valve, not a slight over fill.
Like Tom said, check the fill by looking at the screen under the hydrosweep to see how far up the water comes on it. I trust the machine is fairly level? |
Post# 830747 , Reply# 17   7/5/2015 at 01:33 (3,190 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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Post# 831055 , Reply# 19   7/6/2015 at 19:31 (3,188 days old) by Defoedude (Ferguson, MO)   |   | |
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Water is escaping from the corner of the evaporation channel and is it because the seal is not long enough? It does fill to where the overflow slightly bobs and I hear a click
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Post# 832596 , Reply# 20   7/17/2015 at 05:09 (3,178 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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Post# 832605 , Reply# 21   7/17/2015 at 06:50 (3,178 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)   |   | |
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Alex, is the water dripping now a big flood or is a small amount? It sounds like the water level is correct in the tank for a full-charge fill. Remove the upper colored panel of the door and check to see if the detergent dispenser or rinse aid dispenser are leaking around their seals on the porcelain door. The other likely leaky culprit is the o-rings in the dispenser itself that seal the shafts of the covers.
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Post# 832698 , Reply# 22   7/18/2015 at 08:22 (3,177 days old) by defoedude (Ferguson, MO)   |   | |
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Post# 832863 , Reply# 24   7/19/2015 at 18:34 (3,175 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Tom, WP always had water circulating while water was heating. KA was still Hobart when the 19 series came out, as we all know. I think after WP acquired KA, they didn't want to upset the apple cart too much, along with the limits of our electrical system and 120v power, ad continued the static water heating design until the 23 series. I always thought that wa so stupid of KA to not have water circulating while water was also heating. One of the reasons why I wouldn't buy a KA. |
Post# 844094 , Reply# 25   10/3/2015 at 13:50 (3,099 days old) by defoedude (Ferguson, MO)   |   | |
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I ran another cycle with the front panel off and the leaks are intermittent splashes coming from the hinge pin area - is it cause of the lower door seal not fully extending to the sides of the tank or am I needing a new overall tank gasket?
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Post# 845048 , Reply# 26   10/10/2015 at 00:35 (3,093 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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Alex,
I've got a 20 (60) and the bottom of the door looks pretty much the same. It has the galvanized strip across the front like yours and the brass colored channel with the black rubber strip. The only thing mine has on the bottom of the door between the porcelain and the inner door is a white plastic baffle and the little black things I showed you on up the thread. I fixed a 21 for Tom Gasko with strips of Sugru on the bottom front of the tank in the corners, like I explained above. It was dripping the tiniest amount; maybe because I worked on the water valve with a needle to let in a bit more water. Mine doesn't have that split blue channel like you show in post #1. That's all I know. Other KitchenAid folks will have to comment if they know. I haven't worked on an 18, but if you can make it work anyway you can w/o other parts, go for it. B. |
Post# 845074 , Reply# 27   10/10/2015 at 06:41 (3,093 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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The reason inlet valves pass less water as they age is because the valve diaphragm wears out. It generally does little good to take the valves apart play with the flow washers clean the screens etc. you're just wasting your time it's better to replace the valve. These valves are still available for these KA DWs you will get much better and more consistent performance if you just replace the valve.
You can however Rebuild the inlet valve if you want to replace the valve diaphragm. Valve diaphragms are some times available from parts distributors you can also buy a less expensive washing machine in let valve and take the parts out of it to use for the dishwasher valve. |
Post# 845085 , Reply# 28   10/10/2015 at 11:44 (3,092 days old) by defoedude (Ferguson, MO)   |   | |
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I think I put the lower door seal strip in upside down - I looked at how it was laid out in the repair manual and it wasn't in the position as pictured, so I put it back in the correct way and put some auto/marine weatherstripping on the sides of the tank to not leave a gap/secure the lower seal in place - no more leaks!
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