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Thread Number: 60411
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Replacing a Kenmore 1972 washer belt. |
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| Post# 830691 7/4/2015 at 14:32 (3,212 days old) by scoots (Chattanooga TN) | ||
 I have a Lady Kenmore 1972 Garagedoor Keyboard Washer with a broken "thin" style belt. I was talking to John (combo52) on Wednesday, and he says there's a way to get the belt on without doing the full transmission drop outlined in the manuals.
John's been very generous with his time to me and I'd rather not tie up his holiday weekend.
Is this alternate way of belt replacement illustrated on the site? Is the standard transmission drop illustrated? (yes, I've searched already)
I do have a printed instruction book, but it's all text and no illustrations, and I'm very reluctant to start undoing bolts because I think they're the ones refereed to in the instructions.
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| Post# 830776 , Reply# 1 7/5/2015 at 07:25 (3,211 days old) by thefixer () | ||
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Yes, the easier way is to lever up the brake yoke, pull the spin cam bar and drop the clutch shaft. I've always done it that way, much easier than lowering the transmission. I'll see if I can find a diagram or photo. | ||
| Post# 830782 , Reply# 3 7/5/2015 at 07:54 (3,211 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida) | ||
Very Nice | ||
Post# 830783 , Reply# 4 7/5/2015 at 07:57 (3,211 days old) by Yogitunes  (New Jersey) |
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yeah, true, there are not any videos of this belt being replaced.....one of us should do one...
the only extra issue that he will have on this particular machine is a few extra hoses/valve coming from the pump for the dispenser, which you may have to take one or two hoses off.... but normally without this stuff, you would take the two bolts from the pump, and just move it to the side... we have done this so many times, you could almost be blind to do it.....I like the above suggestion, I ma try that next time.....but doesn't the transmission bolt with the spacer still have to be removed? | ||
| Post# 830786 , Reply# 5 7/5/2015 at 08:13 (3,211 days old) by thefixer () | ||
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Yes, you have to remove the spacer and the transmission support brackets but you don't have to loosen the other two transmission bolts and lower the transmission. | ||
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Post# 830803 , Reply# 6 7/5/2015 at 09:56 (3,211 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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Thanks.....learned something new.....almost can't wait to try this method.....that has been an issue for some machines, once you drop the tranny, some can be a bit tricky to line it back up, and most times you have to stand the machine up, tighten the bolts and then lay back down to finish putting it together....
as mentioned, the complicated part is working around all those hoses.....it can seem overwhelming, but it can be done......best if anything, take pics before, just in case you get side tracked......I only lucked out on mine because the self clean filter is mounted to the tub, one less thing in the way..... let us know how you make out...... | ||
| Post# 830871 , Reply# 7 7/5/2015 at 15:43 (3,211 days old) by scoots (Chattanooga TN) | ||
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Problem Transmission Stays. Thanks for the sketch and the instructions Fixer, much appreciated.
I do have a question though. I have three spacer/struts that attach the transmission to the baseplate, two of which are going to give me problems (see yellow arrows in photo).
These struts must be on the inside of the belt, meaning that they need be removed/detached in some way to permit the belt to pass "through" them. How are they handled?
Thanks.
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| Post# 830886 , Reply# 8 7/5/2015 at 18:06 (3,211 days old) by Blackstone (Springfield, Massachusetts) | ||
As I remember.....
It's been a while since I did this job, but here's my 2 cents:
--remove three curved brackets from transmission to baseplate (1/2-inch socket); --remove 2 bolts from pump (1/2 inch socket) --remove pump hoses from pump --remove bolt and spacer (9/16 inch socket) --remove spring and short shaft --move cam shaft all the way back, without losing alignment --loosen bolt holding motor, which later will be how belt tension is reapplied --reverse steps! I think I covered it all from memory. The reason no one has a video of this jobs is because it's usually done while laying down on a damp and dirty cellar floor, with rusty bolts. Not a pretty job. | ||
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Post# 830889 , Reply# 9 7/5/2015 at 18:18 (3,211 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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 The bolts you have tagged in yellow do not need to be loosened. The items I tagged in red are removed / loosened. The belt is laced around the *outside* of the transmission. The three transmission braces are removed from the transmission for the belt to pass through. The two curved braces don't necessarily have to be fully removed from the baseplate, just loosen the bolts enough to get the braces off the tranny. The rear brace typically is fully removed. Remove the two pump bolts. May or may not need to remove the hoses from the pump depending on how much the pump can be pushed aside for room to pass the belt. Not sure if the hose to the filter poses an obstruction, I never did a belt on a machine with that style of filter. The transmission mounting bolt near the spin clutch spring (I think that's the correct one) is fully removed. There's a spacer at bottom of the mounting strut, atop the transmission housing, which provides a gap when the bolt is removed for the belt to pass through around the spin pulley. Be ready to catch the spacer when you pull the bolt out. Also loosen the motor brackets from the baseplate and swing the motor to allow working room to run the belt around the pulley. After the new belt is in place, hook the pump pulley behind the belt and replace the two bolts.
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| Post# 830891 , Reply# 10 7/5/2015 at 18:30 (3,211 days old) by Blackstone (Springfield, Massachusetts) | ||
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| Post# 830894 , Reply# 11 7/5/2015 at 19:02 (3,211 days old) by scoots (Chattanooga TN) | ||
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DADoES: Thanks for marking the nuts, that makes perfect sense. I will give this a shot tomorrow.
Last question: Is the motor's position in the bracket used to put the correct tension on the belt? What is the correct tension? (On the old VW bug motors, the fan belt tension was correct when modest pressure deflected the belt 1/2" inch.) | ||
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Post# 830895 , Reply# 12 7/5/2015 at 19:03 (3,211 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan) |
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Belt The last time I did one of these the plastic bag the belt was in, from Sears Parts had very good directions on it with pictures. | ||
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Post# 830910 , Reply# 13 7/5/2015 at 20:14 (3,211 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 833591 , Reply# 14 7/24/2015 at 12:46 (3,192 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
Minty Fresh Lady | ||
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