Thread Number: 60944
/ Tag: Wringer Washers
First Ever Wringer Restoration, Maytag Model 90 |
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Post# 835740 , Reply# 1   8/8/2015 at 22:31 (3,154 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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another Model 90 saved from the scrap heap! Glad to hear you came across my YouTube vids documenting my restoration project. Cosmetically, yours looks to be in about as rough shape as the one at the museum, but at least yours still has the drain hose - looks to be in good condition as well.
What condition are the rubber rolls? As you can see from my videos, I literally dismantled the machine, bolt-by-bolt, sanding and polishing literally EVERY piece. If you do the same, you'll find the results very satisfying! A word of advice when you get to the point of repacking the power unit as well as the wringer gear head - use grease, not oil. I used an all-purpose grease (NLGI Grade 2). Any questions along the way, please ask! - Brad CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK |
Post# 835908 , Reply# 4   8/10/2015 at 13:04 (3,153 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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Hello again, Jon,
To answer some of your questions... 1. Owner's manual for the model 90 - I have never come across an operating manual, however, I have the parts manual (as do a few other members.) I can share the pages once I've scanned them; will be happy to e-mail them to you. 2. Date of manufacture - Geoff Delp may be able to determine the exact month/year. Contact him. 3. Polishing the crown - depending upon the amount of corrosion. The two machines I restored were in very rough cosmetic shape - the crown looked like concrete! I first used very fine wet/dry sandpaper, followed by fine steel wool, and finally polished with Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish, using a soft flannel rag. 4. Pitting - not much you can do, other than possibly filling in the larger ones with a product such as JB Weld "SteelStik". Modern detergents are not as corrosive as soap and washing soda back in the '20s and '30s, so further corrosion should not be a problem. 5. Gasket for drain attachment - this was a rubber piece, part # 12216. You will have to make one yourself, or use plumber's putty. 6. Leak from nut (center plate to tub) ... there is a gasket (part # 12240), but if only one is leaking, I would suggest carefully removing that one bolt/nut and sealing it with plumber's putty when you replace it. Ultimately, you could replace the entire gasket with a new cork one, but CAUTION is advised if attempting to remove the center plate. If the bolts break, or worse yet, the center plate cracks, this would be disastrous! I did not attempt to remove the center plate on the museum's machine. Also, the cork gasket for the power unit (part # 12716) will probably need replacing. You can make one from gasket-making material found at any auto parts store. Would be nice if I lived closer to help you with the restoration! In any case, don't hesitate to ask anything along the way. - Brad |
Post# 835960 , Reply# 6   8/10/2015 at 17:58 (3,153 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
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Regarding sandpaper - I believe I used 150 or 180 grit, depending upon the amount of corrosion/oxidation. What you want to avoid is leaving grooves in the aluminum from a sandpaper that is too coarse. To my knowledge, there is no "grain" to the aluminum in the tub, as it was cast in one piece. I sanded and polished in straight lines, back and forth, length-wise on the crown edges. For steel wool, use fine grade, or SOS pads.
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Post# 1019654 , Reply# 8   12/31/2018 at 23:12 (1,913 days old) by TexasSuds (Fort Worth, Texas)   |   | |
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Um... how do you get the agitator off? |