Thread Number: 60944  /  Tag: Wringer Washers
First Ever Wringer Restoration, Maytag Model 90
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Post# 835636   8/8/2015 at 01:18 (1,417 days old) by ketronj281989 ()        

Hey guys, I have recently got on the Wringer bandwagon after getting my first ever Wringer washer just several weeks ago.

Well I got another one! This one is a pre-war model, an era which peaks my true interest in the wringer washer world. I have a heavy interest in pre-war Maytag wringers, so I hit the jackpot in discovering this one close by.

Judging by the pictures on "Maytag evolution" from the Maytag club's website, this model looks to be a Model 90. Please, anybody correct me if I am wrong. I have recently came across "Bradross63" restoration chronicles on a model 90. Interesting stuff. I will start out slow though as this is my first restoration of a pre-war Maytag wringer washer. I do plan on keeping this washer, I am going to try and perform a top notch restoration on this machine. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!


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Post# 835740 , Reply# 1   8/8/2015 at 22:31 (1,416 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        

bradross's profile picture
another Model 90 saved from the scrap heap! Glad to hear you came across my YouTube vids documenting my restoration project. Cosmetically, yours looks to be in about as rough shape as the one at the museum, but at least yours still has the drain hose - looks to be in good condition as well.

What condition are the rubber rolls?

As you can see from my videos, I literally dismantled the machine, bolt-by-bolt, sanding and polishing literally EVERY piece. If you do the same, you'll find the results very satisfying!

A word of advice when you get to the point of repacking the power unit as well as the wringer gear head - use grease, not oil. I used an all-purpose grease (NLGI Grade 2).

Any questions along the way, please ask!

- Brad


Post# 835813 , Reply# 2   8/9/2015 at 17:26 (1,415 days old) by ketronj281989 ()        


I was hoping you would chime in. Believe it or not (long story short) I came across your Model 30 videos over a year ago. Im 26 and never knew what a wringer washer was until your video's. I instantly became hooked on pre-war Maytag's after seeing your washer and it's restoration. I really like the design and functionally of them. I aspired to find a similar machine, but just recently came across this model 90 which seems similar to the 30. As an added bonus I just recently came across your model 90 restoration right before I picked up this machine over two weeks ago. You do amazing work on these old Maytag's. I plan to restore this model 90 to the same standards you did. I also plan on using it as well.

Im new to the wringer washer world and currently using that model N2L I picked up about a month ago. Once the 90 is finished the N2L will be put on standby for a backup while the 90 is being used for a weekly driver.

On to the restoration:

I will defiantly need advise and pointers along the way from any and all who have worked on a similar machine.

Brad, to answer your question: Both rollers are in mint condition. No flat spots, both metal shafts are bonded to their rubber superbly, no rot on the rubber either.

I plan on dismantling the machine, bolt-by-bolt, sanding and polishing every piece.

The machine works, I plugged in the electric motor, it was quiet. I also turned on the agitator, it works normal and quiet as well. No grinding/weired noises on the machine at all, and I ran it for 20 minutes with dish soap to clean the inside of the tub.

I will test the rollers and post a video later tonight.



Post# 835844 , Reply# 3   8/9/2015 at 23:02 (1,415 days old) by ketronj281989 ()        

The rollers and wringer box work! All parts of the machine currently work as should.

Does anybody know where I can find a service manual/owners manual?????????

The serial number is 428643W. Does anybody know what month and year this machine was produced?

I have included a couple of pictures of the inside of the tub and outside top. Brad, can you tell me the proper way to clean and polish the exposed aluminum parts? I would like to get them to shine like your restorations. I have never worked with aluminum before. There is very light pitting on the lid and outside top. Moderate pitting is really only in the center of the tub (The part the agitator sits over). What do you do to take care of the pitting?

Also Brad, where did you get gaskets for the 90 you restored? I noticed the gasket that meshes between the tub and metal drain hose spout has a leak when the tub is filled (Picture#3). Also, there looks to be a remnants of a rubber o ring or such that sits in the indentation where the water drains out of the tub (Picture#4). It is practically gone and needs replaced, could be where the leak is coming from?

A video of the machine in operation in the link below.

Thank you all for your help.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO ketronj281989's LINK

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Post# 835908 , Reply# 4   8/10/2015 at 13:04 (1,414 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        
Answers to questions...

bradross's profile picture
Hello again, Jon,

To answer some of your questions...

1. Owner's manual for the model 90 - I have never come across an operating manual, however, I have the parts manual (as do a few other members.) I can share the pages once I've scanned them; will be happy to e-mail them to you.

2. Date of manufacture - Geoff Delp may be able to determine the exact month/year. Contact him.

3. Polishing the crown - depending upon the amount of corrosion. The two machines I restored were in very rough cosmetic shape - the crown looked like concrete! I first used very fine wet/dry sandpaper, followed by fine steel wool, and finally polished with Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish, using a soft flannel rag.

4. Pitting - not much you can do, other than possibly filling in the larger ones with a product such as JB Weld "SteelStik". Modern detergents are not as corrosive as soap and washing soda back in the '20s and '30s, so further corrosion should not be a problem.

5. Gasket for drain attachment - this was a rubber piece, part # 12216. You will have to make one yourself, or use plumber's putty.

6. Leak from nut (center plate to tub) ... there is a gasket (part # 12240), but if only one is leaking, I would suggest carefully removing that one bolt/nut and sealing it with plumber's putty when you replace it. Ultimately, you could replace the entire gasket with a new cork one, but CAUTION is advised if attempting to remove the center plate. If the bolts break, or worse yet, the center plate cracks, this would be disastrous! I did not attempt to remove the center plate on the museum's machine.

Also, the cork gasket for the power unit (part # 12716) will probably need replacing. You can make one from gasket-making material found at any auto parts store.

Would be nice if I lived closer to help you with the restoration! In any case, don't hesitate to ask anything along the way.

- Brad

Post# 835944 , Reply# 5   8/10/2015 at 16:40 (1,414 days old) by ketronj281989 ()        

Sounds good Brad. I will heed your recommendations for the gaskets.

In terms of sanding and polishing the aluminum. What is the process of steps you performed? What grit of sandpaper did you use, did you use a sanding block, and what grade of steel wool did you use? Do I need to go with the grain on the aluminum?

Sadly we are many miles apart, I sure could use your expertise with this machine. I would greatly appreciate the parts manual.

My email is:

Does anybody out there own a service manual for a model 90??



Post# 835960 , Reply# 6   8/10/2015 at 17:58 (1,414 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        
Scans on their way to you...

bradross's profile picture
Regarding sandpaper - I believe I used 150 or 180 grit, depending upon the amount of corrosion/oxidation. What you want to avoid is leaving grooves in the aluminum from a sandpaper that is too coarse. To my knowledge, there is no "grain" to the aluminum in the tub, as it was cast in one piece. I sanded and polished in straight lines, back and forth, length-wise on the crown edges. For steel wool, use fine grade, or SOS pads.

Post# 836308 , Reply# 7   8/12/2015 at 19:43 (1,412 days old) by ketronj281989 ()        

I have finally dropped the ball on this old gal and started restoration. As strange as it may sound I am going to first start from the bottom and work my way up. Today I have unfastened and removed the castors and leg extensions from this machine. As you can see from the photos they were pretty rusty but several still retained their original paint. Thanks to Brad I now know that early production model 90’s had all metal wheels and later runs close to 1930 had rubber. I am almost positive these castors off this machine are metal due to so much rust.

I submerged the castors, their square retaining nuts, and extension legs in some “Evapo-Rust”. This Evapo-rust is somewhat of a miracle from what I have read regarding consumer reports. What I like about it is that it’s not corrosive and no acid! Some sort of chemical reaction eats away the rust. And it is working!

We know the motor is in good operating condition so I am not going to take it apart for fear of damaging the windings or such. I am going to take each nut and screw off the housing, Evapo-rust them, and oil them afterward. They should then be good for another 50+ years. The power cord is original and in mint condition minus some dust and cob webs. The plug has a neat Westinghouse logo on it and in sound condition. Due to the protection of the grease, dirt and grime, the black paint on the motor housing is in very good shape, I will not be repainting it.

A little interesting fact: I now know the drive belt is original to this machine. It has the Maytag logo on it and part number per the manual. I wiped it down with armor all to help soften the rubber. Good as new!

Video #2 below.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO ketronj281989's LINK

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Post# 1019654 , Reply# 8   12/31/2018 at 23:12 by TexasSuds (Fort Worth, Texas)        

Um... how do you get the agitator off?

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