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Thread Number: 61898
/ Tag: Wringer Washers
Maytag N2L Washer Questions |
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| Post# 845359 , Reply# 1 10/11/2015 at 20:04 (3,113 days old) by scoots (Chattanooga TN) | ||
Hi Jpaul,
Regarding the oil: there's no practical way to get oil into the transmission: it's (supposedly) a sealed unit and the only way to change/replenish the oil is to take it apart. The consensus of opinion is to run it as-is, it's hard to loose enough oil to create a problem. The leakage BTW is usually from a breather hole that weeps when the unit is laid down for transport. This can be prevented by removing the ringer head from the upright shaft and laying the unit on its side with the wringer drive shaft on the top. Manuals are available, typically from eBay. If you have aqua plastic parts, the unit is relatively new. Your pump wheel should be in good condition to operate the pump: is it making good contact with the drive wheel? Likewise your discharge hose should be supple enough to permit dropping it to the floor without cracking. Very old hoses will crack and they are a standard diameter and can be replaced off the shelf. The problem is that the discharge head has a trick "Chinese finger trap" retaining ring that makes removal and fitting on a new hose difficult. A word of caution regarding the hose and pump: The pump was the low point in the system and water frequently accumulates there and attacks the metal. If you do remove the hose from the pump, slit the hose in several places and peel it off. Twisting and yanking may damage the pump discharge if it has been weakened by corrosion. | ||
| Post# 845389 , Reply# 2 10/12/2015 at 02:00 (3,113 days old) by stan (Napa CA) | ||
Hi jpaul 
Welcome to the forum.
Agree with everything Scoots just said. I have a service manual if you need it, but I can tell you that there is no way you can add oil (gear oil) to the power unit without a tear down. Sounds like yours ain't broke.. So don't fix it. The "pump to tub" hose is molded, and there are replacements out there if you need one, as well as main drain hoses. Agree that if all you need is a main drain hose, you could get one/make one off the shelf. Mine is a 1954 model and still has enough friction material to continue using my pump. But when I'm finished, I gravity drain the last bit of water into a bucket. Would add that you should separate your wringer rollers between uses, and to lube and remove agitator between uses. Let me know if you need the service manual. | ||
| Post# 847634 , Reply# 4 10/25/2015 at 22:48 (3,099 days old) by stan (Napa CA) | ||
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Maybe J.B weld? | ||
| Post# 847654 , Reply# 5 10/26/2015 at 05:29 (3,099 days old) by jpaul () | ||
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the E2 won't engage. | ||
| Post# 847667 , Reply# 6 10/26/2015 at 08:12 (3,098 days old) by jpaul () | ||
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Ok, so it does engage when running. All good, so far. | ||
| Post# 847670 , Reply# 7 10/26/2015 at 09:03 (3,098 days old) by jpaul () | ||
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Pump pumps out full force when I first pull lever to on, then trickles out, surges a bit on and off. Water pops up from drain hole. Will drain eventually but very slowly. Will drain nicely gravity wise so maybe the pump wheel not making good contact? | ||
| Post# 847683 , Reply# 8 10/26/2015 at 10:07 (3,098 days old) by jpaul () | ||
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Got the wringers working, washing a test load…I found that there is no drain plate under the rollers...the part that directs the water that's squeezed out back into the tub, it's missing. Other then that seems to be running nicely. | ||
| Post# 847694 , Reply# 9 10/26/2015 at 11:47 (3,098 days old) by jpaul () | ||
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Turned the pump on and directed the water back into the tub while it was washing and it worked as it should. | ||
| Post# 847846 , Reply# 10 10/27/2015 at 00:21 (3,098 days old) by stan (Napa CA) | ||
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Sounds like your getting | ||
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