Thread Number: 63167  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
My first vintage set.
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Post# 857522   12/20/2015 at 03:00 (3,022 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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Well sort of but I do think they're from the 80's. I love the set I paid a fair price for them and they are in great condition. My only concern is the dryer. It takes quite a while to dry a normal sized load. Usually over 60 minutes. I've cleaned out the lint not that there was much. The heating element is working and there seems to be sufficient air flow from what I can tell. I've cleaned all of the sensors too. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.




Post# 857523 , Reply# 1   12/20/2015 at 03:01 (3,022 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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Post# 857524 , Reply# 2   12/20/2015 at 04:17 (3,022 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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What about the felt seals around the drum, if it has them?  I had a WP once with worn out felts and it would pull in unheated air causing it to take longer to dry.  On the other hand, my gas GE takes right at 60 minutes to dry an all cotton load of towels, socks, shorts, etc even after being spun in the Asko and with brand new rigid ducting, but it's always been that way.  Sheets take only 30mins or less.  Just a thought!

 


Post# 857527 , Reply# 3   12/20/2015 at 04:36 (3,021 days old) by washdaddy (Baltimore)        

You mentioned you checked the dryer for lint. Did you take the panel off the machine and take the cover off the blower to make sure there isn't anything blocking it's flow or missing any of the fins from it. You may also want to clean the sensors inside the dryer well. If the previous owner used dryer sheets there may be a residue buildup on them which might effect their performance.

Also don't forget, using fabric softener lengthens drying time.

 

 


Post# 857536 , Reply# 4   12/20/2015 at 05:59 (3,021 days old) by delaneymeegan (Midwest)        

delaneymeegan's profile picture
I'll go with the temperature sensor(s) being out of it perameters.

One way to test is to manually sense the temperature when drying a load. Put a standard load of freshly laundered sheets in the dryer at medium to med-high temperature. After about 10-15 minutes, open the door and quickly put your hand into the middle of the batch of laundry. It should be relatively HOT and moist, as should the air inside the dryer.
If it's not, you'll know the thermostat is cutting out too soon, and not allowing the heater to developing enough heat.

These sensors are relatively cheap, and easy to change out.

Best of luck with this. You have a good quality set there, and you should continue to get many more years of service from them.


Post# 857563 , Reply# 5   12/20/2015 at 11:43 (3,021 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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This dryer doesn't have sensors in the drum as it's not electronic control drying.  It uses the exhaust temperature sensing method.  I think this is from around 1988 or 1989.  My fall 1986 first-gen Lady Shredmore had Heavy, Medium, and Light soil designators rather than the above ex heavy, heavy and normal.  Like the above where Normal is a different font color, mine on the medium was a different font color, but did not have the rectangular outline around the word--different font color indicating preferred setting choice. 


Post# 857568 , Reply# 6   12/20/2015 at 15:02 (3,021 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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I did pull the cover off the blower and surprisingly there was no build up. I'll probably order new sensors but I also want to check the vent out of the house. This dryer in fact does have the sensors inside the drum. What would you recommend to clean them with. Also, the vent hose slightly swells when its running and it gets pretty warm after a while. The hose is brand new.

Post# 857569 , Reply# 7   12/20/2015 at 15:49 (3,021 days old) by delaneymeegan (Midwest)        

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Yes, check the entire route of the duct. I once bought a house that had a 30' duct, which is too long. At the back of the house, the previous owners had built a deck and the vent hood was in the way and they basically put wood over the majority of the hole. The duct it turned out was totally clogged with lint and of course the dryer left with the house wasn't able to dry clothes.

I re routed the vent so it was only 6' long. I washed out the ducting pieces I re-used to it was all clean and worked fine after that.

If you don't have build up in the lines coming off the dryer, this is probably not your issue. You shouldn't have build-up directly in the fan compartment otherwise the fan wouldn't be able to turn at all.


Post# 857571 , Reply# 8   12/20/2015 at 16:00 (3,021 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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Im gonna check the vent tomorrow. The only thing is, I cant find anywhere on the sides of the house it would vent out of. Im thinking it might vent through the roof.

Post# 857575 , Reply# 9   12/20/2015 at 16:32 (3,021 days old) by delaneymeegan (Midwest)        

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It could be going through the roof, it could also be going into the attic, or through a soffit.

You should try doing the test suggested above, but take a piece of clean ducting and attach it to the dryer and route it temporarily out a window or door. If the dryer works properly that way, you'll know the problem is in the ducting.

Some of these pics may apply.


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 13         View Full Size
Post# 857577 , Reply# 10   12/20/2015 at 16:49 (3,021 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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Those pics help a lot. Thank you! I'll see what I can find.

Post# 857582 , Reply# 11   12/20/2015 at 17:32 (3,021 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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What I was wondering too, is should the exhaust hose swell up slightly when air is flowing through it? It feels like the dryer itself is putting out a good amount of air, I checked that before I picked it up. And the hose isnt kinked anywhere.

Post# 857585 , Reply# 12   12/20/2015 at 17:41 (3,021 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine)        

wayupnorth's profile picture
My dryer is next to a window in my bathroom. I have flex metal hose and a vent outlet into a lever for inside or outside to a regular outside vent. I have 2 pieces of Styrofoam that fit in the window perfectly, so when I am drying, moisture goes outside and cold stays there, it is a PITA to do everytime you dry. But if I want a warm towel,robe and nice warm bathroom I have it in minutes directing the heat into the room for a couple minutes. Venting outside like here where its normally frigid lets so much of that cold air right into the dryer and into the house, as no vent seals perfect I have found.

Post# 857587 , Reply# 13   12/20/2015 at 17:47 (3,021 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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Yeah the laundry closet is nowhere near a window. What would you guys recommend to clean the sensors with?

Post# 857588 , Reply# 14   12/20/2015 at 17:55 (3,021 days old) by ken (NYS)        

ken's profile picture
Glad to see the advice about also checking the sensors as I just got the 1980 Whirlpool dryer last week. The guy I got it from said it takes a little longer to dry a load than it used to. I haven't opened it up yet to check it for lint.

Post# 857591 , Reply# 15   12/20/2015 at 18:04 (3,021 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Failing Moisture Sensor

mrb627's profile picture
Is highly unlikely to cause long drying times. If the airflow is adequate, your problem is likely in the heating circuit. I would run the dryer on timed dry hi heat and check the temperature of the exhaust air.

Malcolm


Post# 857593 , Reply# 16   12/20/2015 at 18:21 (3,021 days old) by LaVidaBoem ()        
Strong>>Your own Clue...

Hey Man,

 

A Kenmore/Whirlpool moves some air.

 

The Shorter the duct work, the better; if it's going to be over six feet, it should increase in diameter, to allow good venting.

Too long a duct, without increasing the diameter tends to make the air flow try to speed up too much...(like in HVAC ducting).

 

Now, although you checked, just for reference, A whirlpool will run with a plenum full of dust inside the blower wheel...makes the same noise, turns just as fast, or faster, but moves NO air to speak of...

 

One of the most important things customers overlook on the pull-out top mount filter...they load the dryer, hit start...and remember,

Shit! I need to clean the lint...

 

When you pull out a Whirlpool running, you open yourself to the chance of rolling the lint right off the screen down into the plenum...I have several a month come in this way.

 

Now, you are your own detective...no hose should blow up, or expand like you mention...way too much back pressure...

 

Just slide the old girl out a foot or two, drop the vent @ the dryer...screw the window deal...and run a load of wet towels...

A Whirlpool on high will dry those in a little over 20 minutes with an unobstructed duct. Period.

 

I highly doubt any sensor is bad...but use the timed cycle on high...

A Whirlpool can run with the element on for up to 8 minutes before it cuts off for the first time.

You can probably find an angle to view and see the heat glow without even removing the back...just turn out the lights Man!

 

Good luck, report back.

 

LaVidaBoem

 

Post Script: If you are worried about a little lint for this test...use one leg of a pair of panty hose...Slip on duct @ dryer.

Excellent Temp Filter...kiss


Post# 857595 , Reply# 17   12/20/2015 at 18:30 (3,021 days old) by ken (NYS)        

ken's profile picture
Can the heating element lose its effectiveness over time and not produce full heat like when new? Or is it a case of it works or doesn't work?

Post# 857596 , Reply# 18   12/20/2015 at 18:39 (3,021 days old) by LaVidaBoem ()        
It either works, or it Don't

Yes Ken,...its just that simple on the element.

 

Eddy


Post# 857614 , Reply# 19   12/20/2015 at 20:51 (3,021 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
There's gold text "Electronic Sensor" above the start button.

Damp clothes making contact across the sensor bars causes the timer to stall ... so the timer won't stall if there's residue on them preventing completion of the circuit, which will make the cycle shorter, not longer.  The clothes will come out damp due to insufficient drying time.

Regards to needing 60+ mins to dry a load, both the auto-dry cycle and timed take comparable amount of time?  The load fully dries, it just takes more time than reasonable?

This is the same exhaust duct on which you previously had a dryer?  Did it exhibit the same characteristics?

The "swelling" of the flexduct during operation perhaps is a clue confirming there's an exhaust outlet restriction.


Post# 857620 , Reply# 20   12/20/2015 at 21:32 (3,021 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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The hose is brand new. I have it looped in weird ways to it wont kink. I wanna pull it out and check the duct. I may even crawl into the attic to see whats going on up there.

Post# 857624 , Reply# 21   12/20/2015 at 22:27 (3,021 days old) by A440 ()        

Nice find!

I have the natural gas version of this dryer.  Don't use it right now.  It is in the garage. 

This is a great dryer.  On the "Cotton Sturdy" setting this dryer is fast!  Of course I can't

speak for the electric version.  It would dry a huge load of towels in 45 minutes.  The gas dryer

is very hot and fast on this setting. 

I am sure it is nothing major that could not be fixed.  

Great score.

 


Post# 857628 , Reply# 22   12/20/2015 at 23:53 (3,021 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
The hose is brand new.
The hose between the dryer and the wall is probably not the problem, unless it's too long and gets kinked/restricted when the dryer is shoved into position.  A clog may be in the ducting past that point, between the wall and the outdoors.
I may even crawl into the attic to see whats going on up there.
Exactly, and find where is the outside end of the ducting to check the airflow there.


Post# 857633 , Reply# 23   12/21/2015 at 01:08 (3,021 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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I pulled the dryer out and stuck my hand in the wall duct. Yeah it was nasty. I used my brush set to get as far up as I could and pulled out more. I tried to get pictures but they didnt come out that great. I shortened the hose some and got out as much lint as I could. There was quite a pile. After that the opening seemed to be pretty large. Im running a load now to see how it does. I noticed the heating element stays on a bit longer than before and when I reached in just now, it was pretty hot in there. Hotter than before. I hope this fixed it. I also noticed the timer isnt advancing as fast as before on the automatic setting. Once I get this fixed, a new set of pulleys will be next.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO StrongEnough78's LINK


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Post# 857635 , Reply# 24   12/21/2015 at 01:09 (3,021 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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After

Post# 857636 , Reply# 25   12/21/2015 at 01:15 (3,021 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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Oh and what do you guys recommend to use to clean the sensors?

Post# 857637 , Reply# 26   12/21/2015 at 01:17 (3,021 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 6         View Full Size
Post# 857639 , Reply# 27   12/21/2015 at 01:24 (3,021 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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About 2/3 of this I pulled out by hand. The rest I dug out with the brush set.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 4         View Full Size
Post# 857640 , Reply# 28   12/21/2015 at 01:50 (3,021 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
I'd bet there's more if you haven't yet reached all the way to the exit hood outside the house.

Restricted airflow causes the heating element to overheat and cycle (shorter) via the limit thermostat on the heater box which results in taking longer for the drum, clothes, and exhaust air to reach the target operating temperature per the thermostat on the blower housing ... plus the impact on moving the moisture out of the load.


Post# 857646 , Reply# 29   12/21/2015 at 04:22 (3,021 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

I would use some plain od white vinegar to clean the surface of the sensors and then wipe off with a moistened(with water) towel. That should do it.

One way I have cleaned out a duct like you have is to use a leaf blower. Just disconnect the dryer and insert the business end of the leaf blower in the hose and let her rip. After a few minutes it'll look like it's snowing outside!

I have also seen the inside of dryers so clogged with lint that the lint has become hard like concrete and no air at all will move through them. You really do need to take the internal duct work apart and clean it all out. Those dryers are very capable and do a good job. They usually aren't slow to dry. Sears sold millions of them.


Post# 857650 , Reply# 30   12/21/2015 at 06:27 (3,020 days old) by delaneymeegan (Midwest)        

delaneymeegan's profile picture


"One way I have cleaned out a duct like you have is to use a leaf blower. Just disconnect the dryer and insert the business end of the leaf blower in the hose and let her rip. After a few minutes it'll look like it's snowing outside! "

That is funny AND a good idea.

Yeah, I wouldn't even bother with messing with the sensors. You've found your problem. It's in the walls and attic. You need to do a complete cleaning of those ducts, or pay someone to do it.

You really need to find out for your own sense, where the duct terminates. You may need to climb on the roof. If you have a roof cap and someone had a new roof sloppily put on, they may have damaged the cap, and that is what's caused the problem.

If you have a soffit vented duct, you may have birds or squirrels that have tried to nest in it, and that may be what's caused a jam.

Thanks for the pictures. We really appreciate them.


Post# 857667 , Reply# 31   12/21/2015 at 08:50 (3,020 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Oy Vey! That duct has got to go!

Whoever installed that rectangular duct did not seem to know what he was doing or what was appropriate. If that was in my house, I would tear it out and replace it with 4 inch metal duct up to the roof cap. That will increase the velocity of the air from the dryer. All that happens now is the air gets pushed into the rectangular duct and loses its momentum and then hangs out in there while trying to make its way to the roof cap
I bet they used that because the wall was too shallow for a 4 inch round pipe. Is there any way for you to duct it thru an outside wall from the laundry room? The shortest distance to the outside is the best way to go. And the best route to the roof is straight up with few if any elbows. Each elbow adds 5-8 feet equivalent length to the total it has to go to get to the roof. Most dryers recommend no more than 20 feet of total duct length.
You may want to remove the old duct and install a "Dryer Box" which will allow you to have a more shallow curve to connect the dryer outlet to it especially if you mount it a few inches higher than floor level. Then repair the drywall, spackle and paint and then your dryer will run like new.

Here is a link to Amazon that shows a couple of different dryer vent boxes. These are now being used extensively here in Florida.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO stevet's LINK


Post# 857674 , Reply# 32   12/21/2015 at 09:47 (3,020 days old) by Kenmoreman ( Southern NH)        
Sensors and exhaust

I serviced the units for years. Great machines. The sensors never need cleaning. Just using the dryer cleans them fine. If the dryer shuts off eventually them your problem is venting. Replace that and then you will be able to diagnose any problems in the dryer. Just run the dryer unvented with wet clothes as a test. If the room fill up with moisture and the exhaust warms up as the clothes heat up then you know you have a bad vent. The moisture is not getting out properly therefore long drying time. Best of luck to you!

Post# 857719 , Reply# 33   12/21/2015 at 14:51 (3,020 days old) by vintage1963 (Ohio)        

vintage1963's profile picture
This is the same set my mom bought back in 1986. I loved them! A great set that washed the clothes very well and dried them well too. I hope to find the same pair someday!

Post# 857795 , Reply# 34   12/22/2015 at 02:34 (3,020 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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The way the house is set up, the roof was the only option. To the left of the laundry closet is the master bedroom closet and bath. To the right is the entry way. When I get a tall enough ladder I'll climb the roof to see which of the many pipes up there are for the vent. I was thinking of the leaf blower idea too just to get as much out as possible until I can have it professionally done. At which I'll discuss with the landlord. But all the pipes my roomie and I could see in the attic we're all intact and looked fairly new. So Im hoping the mess I pulled out that was sitting at the bottom of the duct will make an improvement for now. Thank you all for your advice. When I picked up the set he had the dryer running and it was putting out a good amount of air. I think they are a few years apart though. I'll post pics of the model labels.

Post# 857796 , Reply# 35   12/22/2015 at 02:38 (3,020 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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Washer

Post# 857797 , Reply# 36   12/22/2015 at 02:39 (3,020 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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Dryer

Post# 857798 , Reply# 37   12/22/2015 at 02:44 (3,020 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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This isn't exactly the set I wanted. I wanted a set with the seperate wash and spin speed options. But what I love about this set is the hot water isnt dumbed down it comes out tap hot and warm is exactly that. All the dryer will need soon are new pullys. After that's said and done, I'm gonna hang onto them for a while. Although the roomies want something water efficient, but then again, they didn't pay for it!

Post# 857799 , Reply# 38   12/22/2015 at 02:50 (3,020 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        
Whirlcool

strongenough78's profile picture
I did take the back of it off and there was very little in there. But I did clean out what was in there.

Post# 857801 , Reply# 39   12/22/2015 at 02:55 (3,020 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        
askolover

strongenough78's profile picture
The felt around fhe drums seem to be in good shape but I'll get pics for you and get your opinion on that :)

Post# 857823 , Reply# 40   12/22/2015 at 08:43 (3,019 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Dryer is 30th week of 1989 per the serial.

Cannot read serial of the washer.


Post# 857863 , Reply# 41   12/22/2015 at 13:12 (3,019 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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82873820 on the washer.

Post# 857875 , Reply# 42   12/22/2015 at 13:53 (3,019 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
That's the model, not the serial.  :-)

One or two of the digits in the model reflects the market year (I'm not sure which digits).  The serial number is coded for the manufacture year and week, which is not readable in the picture.


Post# 857882 , Reply# 43   12/22/2015 at 14:29 (3,019 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Viable option, maybe??

Vern, It is hard to tell from you pictures of the rectangular duct if it is at least 4 inches wide or if you were able to actually remove the bottom portion of it to clean it and photograph it. Would it be possible for you to get some 4 inch rigid pipe and assemble it section by section until you could slip it into the 4 inch hole up at the top? That way you would then be directly connected to the roof cap and the full force of the dryer fan can exhaust right up to the cap? You would need to put the crimped end up into the duct and add additional sections until it is able to be transitioned on to the dryer exhaust with a 90 degree elbow at the bottom. You may have to slit the top section of the crimp so it slides into the top piece more easily.
Think it's do-able?


Post# 857913 , Reply# 44   12/22/2015 at 18:39 (3,019 days old) by appnut (TX)        
82873820

appnut's profile picture

Making this a 1987 model.


Post# 857970 , Reply# 45   12/23/2015 at 02:35 (3,019 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        
stevet

strongenough78's profile picture
The hole itself was large enough to get my phone in. To do what you're suggesting would take a lot of work I dont think I can do.

Post# 858184 , Reply# 46   12/24/2015 at 15:18 (3,017 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

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So I washed and dried a load of sweaters and it didnt seem to take as long but a bit longer than I was hoping. I may try a load of towels or clothes later in the week and see how she does.


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