Thread Number: 64234  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
1956 Duomatic
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Post# 868154   2/21/2016 at 08:34 (2,983 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        

mopar65's profile picture
Well I figured I would start this post so it's in the right place. Anyway I will keep you all updated on the progress on the Duomatic. I got it all working last night motor works, transmission shifts, dryer heater works so that's a good start but found the real reason why it stopped working long ago. I will pull the magic heater switch out and see if it can be saved.




Post# 868158 , Reply# 1   2/21/2016 at 09:14 (2,983 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

It will work without the Magic Heater; you just take it out of the circuit.

Post# 868185 , Reply# 2   2/21/2016 at 14:11 (2,983 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Run cap

mopar65's profile picture
I took the motor/pump/transmission out today and would like to replace the run cap someone replaced it once at some point. I won't to put the right size cap in but this one has a big range and does not seem right. Would someone know what UF it should have?

Post# 868186 , Reply# 3   2/21/2016 at 14:15 (2,983 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
The water values cleaned up nice and are working now.

Post# 868241 , Reply# 4   2/21/2016 at 20:06 (2,983 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
THAT IS THE RIGHT CAP.

That is the cap.for your machine.The original cap.was243-295 MFD.This is the range you need.A cap.either works or it does'nt.If it is not working you will know.The motor will hum and not turn.This is a start cap.only,not a start and run cap.If it works and it is clean with no corrosion on the terminal area put it back in.Make sure you put the cardboard piece in the cover first before you put it all back together.This will keep the cap. firmly in place as not to rattle during a spin.This is a case of ,IF IT'S NOT BROKEN DON'T FIX IT.This is a great machine.And very fixable.Out of all the 6 styles I have of the 53 thru 58 Duomatics I like this one the most.Sometimes the magic heaters go out.One sure way is if for some reason there is no water in the tub.That will destroy it instantly.Keep in mind the tub back and bearings and seal should all be replaced.This is the time to do it.I can give you the order numbers for all that stuff should you decide to do that.Also I can guide you through the bearing replacement process.It is easy,But a little work.Done it at least a dozen times or so.It would be worth your while to do it.Your machine will be in service for years to come!BEST OF LUCK ON YOUR WELL WORTH IT PROJECT!Wish I was closer I could help you get that machine in perfect condition in no time at all.

Post# 868242 , Reply# 5   2/21/2016 at 20:14 (2,983 days old) by stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)        

stricklybojack's profile picture
.
Nice post Gyromatic...so helpful.


Post# 868338 , Reply# 6   2/22/2016 at 08:03 (2,982 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Thank you John E

mopar65's profile picture
not a posed to just stuffing it back in I was just thinking for the future.

Post# 868381 , Reply# 7   2/22/2016 at 13:38 (2,982 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
Well started cleaning the transmission up and found its cracked:( I didn't see any oil from the cracks though.

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Post# 868395 , Reply# 8   2/22/2016 at 16:01 (2,982 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
Transmission

Tell me where to send you a new transmission body.I can get it out to you tomorrow.That one cannot be used at all.

Post# 868406 , Reply# 9   2/22/2016 at 16:47 (2,982 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA )        

moparwash's profile picture
Ouch!..

That looks like the Liberty Bell!


Post# 868419 , Reply# 10   2/22/2016 at 17:48 (2,982 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
John E

mopar65's profile picture
Thank you so much! My email is mopar6586@yahoo.com send me a massage and I will give you my info.

Post# 868422 , Reply# 11   2/22/2016 at 17:55 (2,982 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
The funny part is it works lol not for long but it is working some how.

Post# 868591 , Reply# 12   2/23/2016 at 14:40 (2,981 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
Well one more problem found. I think my brother in law can fix it as he was a welder.

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Post# 868614 , Reply# 13   2/23/2016 at 16:04 (2,981 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
Classic Issue

This I have seen on a few Duomatics. This problem can be eliminated forever.What caused this is,If you first remove the soap door you will see a small hole.This hole was to allow moisture to drain on the outer cylinder during the dry cycle.I guess they figured that by the time moisture was rising through the soap boot that the cylinder would be hot and it would evaporate.NOT! What happened is it would get the insulation wet.Trapped between the cylinder and the bottom of the heater box.Also a problem is if the soap boot has a tear in it,or it is not sealed in place.To fix this problem.SEAL THE HOLE UP FOREVER.And also make sure when the insulation is replaced.Wire it up so there is an open space between the cylinder and the heat box,so if by chance water gets through it will run past the insulation and not in it.

Post# 868665 , Reply# 14   2/23/2016 at 19:17 (2,981 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
It was from the soap boot being ripped badly.

Post# 869742 , Reply# 15   2/29/2016 at 08:31 (2,975 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
The transmission is back together. Thank you John E!

Post# 869756 , Reply# 16   2/29/2016 at 10:23 (2,975 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA )        

moparwash's profile picture
Lookin good!...

Post# 869776 , Reply# 17   2/29/2016 at 13:31 (2,975 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
love the progress

hippiedoll's profile picture
You're making & the attention to the details, and the help & advice you are getting.
:o)

I can't wait to see you're duomatic when it's all put back together & in service!

Keeping my fingers crossed for you...
;o)


Post# 869921 , Reply# 18   3/1/2016 at 06:51 (2,974 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
I figured I would give ya guys an up date on the Philco fridge. My brother wanted to keep it. Got these pic's from him last night. He had to custom blend the paint to get it the right shade so it would be the same as a 55 Chevy. Hope you guys like what he did the chrome is off getting redone now.

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Post# 869922 , Reply# 19   3/1/2016 at 07:00 (2,974 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
John is the

jetcone's profile picture

expert on Bendix ! My magic heater is dead , I need to go in and replace it with a submersible element. It really boosts the washing power when it is on.

 

I have never seen a split transmission case in all the Bendii I have worked on. That has to be a casting defect! Where did you find this machine Anthony?

 

Anytime you and your partner want to come out and play with my '56 you are most welcome.

 

That Philco fridge will be stunning for sure!


Post# 869947 , Reply# 20   3/1/2016 at 09:21 (2,974 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
I think the Cal rod is ok in this Duomatic but just not working because of the switch being bad. I think you are right I cant see how that could have happened with no other faults to be found. It came from IN. If you weren't so far and not so much going on here we would love to! All this wedding planning/getting things reedy is about to make me pull my hair out lol thank God the boy is doing most of it.

Post# 870693 , Reply# 21   3/5/2016 at 15:22 (2,970 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
A little progress today

mopar65's profile picture
Got the basket out. That's a lot of lint.

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Post# 870694 , Reply# 22   3/5/2016 at 15:29 (2,970 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Pretty standard

jetcone's profile picture

lint packing I mean. The sump looks really good ! Boy you're gasket is beat to the band isn't it!!
I think that's original as it has a greenish tint to the rubber, JohnE would know for sure.

 

But when you are done you are gonna have some clean clothes !!

 

 

Cheers

 

Jet

 

 

 

 


Post# 870718 , Reply# 23   3/5/2016 at 18:25 (2,970 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
Well as you can see the shaft seal was leaking at one time.

Post# 870725 , Reply# 24   3/5/2016 at 18:52 (2,970 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        

mopar65's profile picture
This Duomatic was used hard and literally put away wet.

Post# 870726 , Reply# 25   3/5/2016 at 19:00 (2,970 days old) by vacerator (Macomb, Michigan)        
Moparguy's, Anthony,

Excellent work!!

Post# 870742 , Reply# 26   3/5/2016 at 21:39 (2,970 days old) by delaneymeegan (Midwest)        

delaneymeegan's profile picture

 

 

Slow but steady wins the race.  Work on it when you want to, everything goes easier, and when it's done you'll remember it that way.


Post# 870831 , Reply# 27   3/6/2016 at 12:15 (2,969 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
NU-PORCE

Glad to see that you took the tub back and cylinder off.I see that there are some rust issues in the tub.This is due to the water that was standing in the tub for who knows how long.The best way to deal with this is clean it perfectly,take it outside use Brillo pads.Rinse good with garden hose.Now for the rust.A wire brush will work well.Get it as clean as you can.With rubbing alcohol and a rag clean those areas again.You can get Nu-Porce at a hardware store or on line.It comes in 2 small bottles you mix together.This works well.I had a few small areas to touch up on my 58 15 some years ago.And when I changed the bearings on it a while back the touch ups looked like I did them yesterday.Hope it is just surface rust in those areas as those are huge pressure points on that machine.And the bearing seal did not leak at one time, it leaked the last time.Bearings in this machine are more than likely original.I would bet this is not a repair that was common in the 50s.The machine just got shoved in the corner of the basement where we are finding them today.As long as you have the machine apart you may as well go all the way with it.I can give you the info if you want to replace these parts.I would do it.

Post# 870862 , Reply# 28   3/6/2016 at 15:30 (2,969 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
JOhn

jetcone's profile picture

do you think those rust spots in the sump are about the shock/motor brackets??

 


Post# 870888 , Reply# 29   3/6/2016 at 18:38 (2,969 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
I will clean it up a little bit so you can see it better. This kinda rust I'm ok with I'm normally dealing with cars that have holes the size of a persons arm.

Post# 870909 , Reply# 30   3/6/2016 at 21:21 (2,969 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
Shock supports

Jon ,These are the places where the shocks are connected.Years ago when I got my 1st 53 Duomatic The rust was bad enough that I had to throw out the whole tub beacause of safety issues.I thought that in the case of having a heavy unbalanced load in a spin it would be possible for one of the shock mounts to break loose.If that happened it would be a mess.Hard to tell what would fly apart.That was the only Duomatic I saw with rust in that area.None of my machines had any rust in that area.

Post# 870992 , Reply# 31   3/7/2016 at 10:25 (2,968 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
John. E

mopar65's profile picture
I would love the info on the bearings and seal. I have it apart may as well replace them now.

Post# 871042 , Reply# 32   3/7/2016 at 14:34 (2,968 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Anthony

jetcone's profile picture

did your boot arrive ok?

 


Post# 871100 , Reply# 33   3/7/2016 at 19:27 (2,968 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
Cleaning Cylinder

The way I remove the cylinder from the tub back is to balance the tub back on 2 chairs.only a small part of the tub back hangs on the chairs.put some towels under the cylinder so when you hit the shaft with a sledge hammer the cylinder has some cush to drop on when it breaks loose.Be sure not to damage the shaft end.Sometimes it works to use a 2by4 set that on shaft and give it a few good blows.It should break loose.As long as you have it apart ,take off the magic heater and replace with new sealer.I always use the orange copper color.It can stand high heat.I also have used this on the heater box to replace all asbestos on the machine.It is best to take the cylinder outside and lay it shaft up.With high pressure water flow rinse and pick all the lint out of the vanes.you should be able to get it all out.Order #s I sent to your E-Mail Best of luck on your project!

Post# 871197 , Reply# 34   3/8/2016 at 05:08 (2,967 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
Jon. C
Yes I did receive the boot in perfect condition. Thank you again for your help with getting a new boot!

John. E
Thank you. I did get your email what a big help. I have been using the copper RTV for years it's the only RTV that will hold up on turbo engines. It's great stuff! If you can believe this the vains are clean~ lint free! Don't know how that happened but it should clean up quickly.

Thank you guys for all of your help! It's never a easy task to bring a machine back from the dead.


Post# 871275 , Reply# 35   3/8/2016 at 10:17 (2,967 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
I ordered the bearings and seals today should be here soon.

Post# 871610 , Reply# 36   3/9/2016 at 19:54 (2,966 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
Got the bearings today and clean up the outer tub a bit and the rust was just on the top no big deal. I will up load some pics tomorrow. It's not as bad as everyone was thinking.

Post# 871744 , Reply# 37   3/10/2016 at 14:38 (2,965 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Pics of rust

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Post# 871794 , Reply# 38   3/10/2016 at 19:35 (2,965 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
Rust Issues

The rust in those areas is not good.Have to remember it went all the way through. What does the underside look like?Best you can do now is just clean it really good and seal it with the Nu-Porce.And hope for the best.The condenser pan assmb.should all be taken apart, cleaned and sealed.This is the time to do it.IT WILL SURELY LEAK.It would be a pain to take the whole machine apart again just to fix that.Keep a look out for another Duomatic.One will surely surface.You will be shocked to see the difference of one that never had standing water in it.I cannot stress how much those areas need to be in a reasonable condition.My fingers are crossed for you.I know how excited you are to get it going.Been there,John

Post# 871825 , Reply# 39   3/10/2016 at 22:35 (2,965 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
John

mopar65's profile picture
Do you think I should have my brother in law weld patches over the spots just to be safe?

Post# 871904 , Reply# 40   3/11/2016 at 13:50 (2,964 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Ok guys

mopar65's profile picture
Any suggestions on how in the world to get the inner tub to come out of the bearings? I have been hitting it with a sledgehammer for like an hour now :(

Post# 871917 , Reply# 41   3/11/2016 at 15:29 (2,964 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
I'm thinking oh heating it up red hot and giving it a good slam. Do you guys think that's a bad idea?

Post# 871921 , Reply# 42   3/11/2016 at 15:44 (2,964 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture

Hey there Anthony,

 

I have yet to do this on my '57, but I feel your pain (and I need to get to mine one of these days while parts are still available!).  Looking at the diagram below, is drum shaft stuck in the bearings, thus then stuck to the back?


Post# 871926 , Reply# 43   3/11/2016 at 16:01 (2,964 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Ben

mopar65's profile picture
I have a new bearing and seals for it. I just don't want to permanently harm it by heating it up red hot. That how we get things to move on cars and figured that's what it would take to get it to slide off. Thank you for the diagram! That helps a lot.

Post# 871928 , Reply# 44   3/11/2016 at 16:11 (2,964 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
Tub back removal

The best way to do it is to balance the tub back on 2 chairs so the cylinder hangs freely with towel or blanket underneath the cylinder so when it breaks loose it will fall on the blanket.Heating it may help.But you are only able to heat the outer bearing not the inner bearing.And the inner bearing is the one that was exposed to water.If you have a pointed chisel you can try centering that on the shaft and give it a good blow.Be careful not to damage the shaft end.Sometimes short hard blows work.It will break loose.Wish I was there to do it for you.Done it many times before.Just keep trying.And walk away from it for a while then go back and try again.And as far as the spot welding I would say no.Let us know when you get it apart.

Post# 871929 , Reply# 45   3/11/2016 at 16:18 (2,964 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
Stuck bearings

The shaft rides on the bearings only.So the inner part of the bearings is what is stuck to the shaft.And is such a small surface area.Hard to believe that such a small surface area does not want to break loose.BUT IT WILL.

Post# 871931 , Reply# 46   3/11/2016 at 16:23 (2,964 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
Bearings

I saw you said you had a new bearing and seals.I only see one bearing in the picture.You got 2 right? They both need to be replaced.

Post# 871938 , Reply# 47   3/11/2016 at 17:20 (2,964 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
John

mopar65's profile picture
Yes I did get two but I only pulled one out for the pic.

Post# 871939 , Reply# 48   3/11/2016 at 17:25 (2,964 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
I got it!

mopar65's profile picture
I heated the outer Bering red hot beat it till I could get to the inner and heated it read hot and she came out. What a Bitch! But I got it! 😀

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Post# 871942 , Reply# 49   3/11/2016 at 17:44 (2,964 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
I did get some paint on the motor to.

Post# 871962 , Reply# 50   3/11/2016 at 20:38 (2,964 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
Happy that is over!

Im glad you got it apart.Now you can move forward again.It would have been a bummer to go to bed tonight laying there wondering how the hell am I going to get that thing apart!No worries now.

Post# 871970 , Reply# 51   3/11/2016 at 21:19 (2,964 days old) by Roto204 (Tucson, AZ)        
Yay!!!

roto204's profile picture
Congratulations!!! Keep up the great work!!!

Post# 871972 , Reply# 52   3/11/2016 at 21:52 (2,964 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
John

mopar65's profile picture
That's just what I was thinking! Lol. It's been a long day the boy got his wisdom teeth pulled today so I worked for a few then tended to him. Right when it started to brake it free he came out and mumbled "really I need you now!" As the blood was dripping from his face. Needles to say I dropped what I was doing and helped him. Damn boys always got to chime in when your busy lol

Post# 872027 , Reply# 53   3/12/2016 at 09:38 (2,963 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Quick question

mopar65's profile picture
Do I have to use the the aluminum pice or can I use the new plastic one. I only ask because I think the aluminum one is done for.

Post# 872068 , Reply# 54   3/12/2016 at 13:54 (2,963 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
I got this the other day too.

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Post# 872069 , Reply# 55   3/12/2016 at 13:55 (2,963 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture


Post# 872070 , Reply# 56   3/12/2016 at 13:59 (2,963 days old) by Travis ()        

Yay, I love owners manuals!


Post# 872071 , Reply# 57   3/12/2016 at 13:59 (2,963 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        

revvinkevin's profile picture

 

 

Very nice!   It's always great to have an original owners manual.

 

Can you post a pic of page 4 too?

 

Thanks!

Kevin


Post# 872073 , Reply# 58   3/12/2016 at 14:07 (2,963 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
The magic heater cleaned up good.

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Post# 872075 , Reply# 59   3/12/2016 at 14:09 (2,963 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Kevin

mopar65's profile picture


Post# 872077 , Reply# 60   3/12/2016 at 14:12 (2,963 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        

revvinkevin's profile picture

 

 

Awesome Anthony, thank you!

 

The Magic-heater coil looks like copper??


Post# 872100 , Reply# 61   3/12/2016 at 16:39 (2,963 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
Well the bearings were replaced at one point. I found this laying in the bottom pan.

Post# 872107 , Reply# 62   3/12/2016 at 16:47 (2,963 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
Plastic Piece

You need to use the plastic,the seal will only fit in this piece.Chuck the other one.

Post# 872138 , Reply# 63   3/12/2016 at 17:32 (2,963 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Thank you John.

mopar65's profile picture
I made some progress today. Rust killer is on and working good.

Post# 872570 , Reply# 64   3/14/2016 at 22:52 (2,961 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
56 Duo-Matic

combo52's profile picture

Wow Anthony you are making great progress, John E. is the go to expert on these machines.

 

It is neat that the water heater cleaned up so well and that you found the wattage and voltage stamp on it as well. That old copper sheathed heater will put out over 4,500watts when you run it on 240 volts that we have now, as you can see it was made in a time when we actually had just 220 volts in this country, this why people who are not well informed still call 240 voltage 220 volts.

 

Looking forward to seeing this machine running.

 

John L.


Post# 872606 , Reply# 65   3/15/2016 at 05:51 (2,960 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
John L

mopar65's profile picture
The works toilet bowl cleaner works wonders! At 4,500 Watts it will do a grate job at heating the wash water.

Post# 873385 , Reply# 66   3/19/2016 at 19:28 (2,956 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Up date

mopar65's profile picture
Sorry it's been so long. I have made some progress. Do you guys think it's ok to put RTV were the seal go's on the inner tub? See pics lots of rust.

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Post# 875617 , Reply# 67   4/4/2016 at 15:35 (2,940 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Sorry it's been so long on an update

mopar65's profile picture
Well guys this is were I'm at right now. Only one small problem (see pic) I'm not quite sure how I should go about fixing or patching this crucial sealing area. Any help would be awesome.

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Post# 875642 , Reply# 68   4/4/2016 at 20:43 (2,940 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Rusty Porcelain Washer Parts

combo52's profile picture

Hi Anthony, The way I have dealt with items like this is to sand, wire brush or glass bead as much of the rust off the metal as possible. Then I paint the part with 2-part marine epoxy or many folks are using Pour-15, then when every thing is good and dry and ready to reassemble I reassemble it using good high temperature 100%silicone sealant, and it should be good for many years.


Post# 875668 , Reply# 69   4/5/2016 at 05:43 (2,939 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
John

mopar65's profile picture

My concern is the rust out of the flange in pic 4 it is right at the edge now and that’s where it was leaking from in the past. I was thinking of making a metal support to go on the inside and JB weld it from the inside and out with silicone over the JB. Do you think that will work?  

 

Anthony


Post# 875672 , Reply# 70   4/5/2016 at 07:11 (2,939 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Rusty Porcelain Washer Parts

combo52's profile picture

Hi I would think that if everything gets coated in the epoxy paint and then gets assembled with enough silicone sealant you should not have a leak.

 

My concern would be if you think there is not enough metal left for  good mechanical strength to hold the parts together, if this is the case then you need to start fabricating some SS plates etc which could be epoxyed in place or or again sealed in place with the silicone S if the SS plates are used like washers or flanges.


Post# 875686 , Reply# 71   4/5/2016 at 10:39 (2,939 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture

Ok thank you John. If I have time I will work on it today and post some pics.


Post# 875689 , Reply# 72   4/5/2016 at 11:10 (2,939 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

Off topic, how is the wisdom teeth situation?  It is one miserable procedure .  

 

How is the wisdom teeth situation coming along. It is miserable.  I remember having to Forcefully squirt H202 in to the sockets. with a gooseneck syringe.   I wish your partner the best. Still on antibiotics?  A

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Post# 875693 , Reply# 73   4/5/2016 at 12:14 (2,939 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
alr2903

mopar65's profile picture

Charles is doing grate smile! lol he started drinking booze and smoking the next day. Just cant keep us county boys down vary long. 


Post# 876379 , Reply# 74   4/10/2016 at 11:58 (2,934 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
Started cleaning stuff up a little bit more finely and the rust is a little bit werse then I was thinking it's going to need a lot of JB weld. I got this plasti dip stuff to coat the inside with to help keep water out of the bad areas. do you guys think that's a good idea? I have never used that stuff before.

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Post# 876412 , Reply# 75   4/10/2016 at 15:07 (2,934 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
JB welded up just needs to finish drying so I can grind it down a bit.

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Post# 876413 , Reply# 76   4/10/2016 at 15:09 (2,934 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA )        

moparwash's profile picture
Good work!...keep plugging away..it will be worth the effort!

Post# 876521 , Reply# 77   4/11/2016 at 07:53 (2,933 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Rusty Porcelain Washer Parts Repair

combo52's profile picture

Looks good, after the JB Weld drys and you smooth it out where you want it I would paint the whole area with the epoxy paint and then after that drys reassemble the parts using an RTV type silicone sealant and it should be good for a few more decades.

 

John L.


Post# 876584 , Reply# 78   4/11/2016 at 15:04 (2,933 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
The tub got a good protective covering as well. I will probably be putting some parts back together tonight.

Post# 876642 , Reply# 79   4/11/2016 at 20:13 (2,933 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
Rubber Spray

I hope that is not the rubber spray in that tub.If it is it WILL peel out.I was very sorry to see this.Wish we could have talked on the phone before you did that.The 2 part Nu Porce was the proven way to go.J B Weld also is not a good application in this situation as it softens when exposed to heat.I haven't looked at this thread for a while.Darn It.

Post# 876653 , Reply# 80   4/11/2016 at 20:37 (2,933 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
No that is an epoxy pant that is used for cars as a primer for dark colors. I figured it would hold up.

Post# 876656 , Reply# 81   4/11/2016 at 20:50 (2,933 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture


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Post# 876657 , Reply# 82   4/11/2016 at 20:52 (2,933 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
As you can see

mopar65's profile picture
I can't get that sope out oh the filter/drain hosing. It is deep down in the metal.

Post# 876705 , Reply# 83   4/12/2016 at 07:06 (2,932 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Aluminum-Pot-Metal Drain Housing

combo52's profile picture

The loose white stuff is corrosion, not detergent-soap residue, best thing is to just clean it up with steel-wool etc, or take it to work and lightly sand-blast or glass-bead it. If it is pretty thin you can two-part epoxy this as well.


Post# 876711 , Reply# 84   4/12/2016 at 07:25 (2,932 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
John

mopar65's profile picture

That's what I was thinking too. So I gave it a dip in the works and that ate up all of that but what is left is detergent that had soaked in the metal if you put it in water it will suds up the water.


Post# 878375 , Reply# 85   4/24/2016 at 13:39 (2,920 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Up date

mopar65's profile picture
I finally got some time to work on it again as soon as the RTV sets up I'm going to snug up the bolts and if I have time start attaching the seal to the back plate if I can find clothes pins lol

Post# 878389 , Reply# 86   4/24/2016 at 16:05 (2,920 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

Yay on the progress.  I am glad Charles is healing up from his dentistry.   A


Post# 878535 , Reply# 87   4/25/2016 at 15:05 (2,919 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
Well I got it back together. It fired right up! Went into low speed then high speed no problems. But drying~ not so much. Some how after taking it apart one of the cal rods shorted out. But other than that the dry run went good!

Post# 878560 , Reply# 88   4/25/2016 at 21:53 (2,919 days old) by Supersuds (Knoxville, Tenn.)        
Great!

supersuds's profile picture
Been following your progress and it's great to see you're overcoming all these obstacles.

Post# 878592 , Reply# 89   4/26/2016 at 05:54 (2,918 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Thanks for the encouragement

mopar65's profile picture

It needs a new belt as well I was going to go down to the tractor part store and see if they had one that would work but I figured I would ask if you guys knew of a place that would have one before I do that. now for the heating element, I was think one could remove the old cal rods and bend a bake element around to fit. dose anyone know the wattage of the factory elements? or is this just a bad idea it looks like its two 120V rods tied together so the wont fry.    


Post# 878650 , Reply# 90   4/26/2016 at 14:25 (2,918 days old) by Supersuds (Knoxville, Tenn.)        

supersuds's profile picture
I seem to remember reading they were around 3500 watts, but don't take that to the bank. Jon (Jetcone) or John L ought to know, among others.

Post# 878677 , Reply# 91   4/26/2016 at 18:50 (2,918 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
John SuperSuds

mopar65's profile picture
Thank you for your input.

Post# 878681 , Reply# 92   4/26/2016 at 19:25 (2,918 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA )        

moparwash's profile picture
Keep up the great work!...Soon you will have the first load underway!

Post# 878698 , Reply# 93   4/26/2016 at 20:59 (2,918 days old) by Gyromatic (St. Paul MN.)        
Heater wattage

The heater wattage is 4000 watts

Post# 878734 , Reply# 94   4/27/2016 at 06:39 (2,917 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
Jon

mopar65's profile picture

Thank you. I have been thinking about this for the best part of the night and I came up with an idea. Do you guys think if I made a plate and cut a hole in it at the vary rear and bolted a flange style 4,500 watt hot water heater element to it that it would work. I would have to bend the element around to make it fit but I was thinking this would be a cheep and EZ solution. I was also thinking that the 4,500 watt element would be ok as John L said before in 1956 we only had 220V serves so if one puts 240V to a 4,000W element  that = 4,500 watts. Just let me know if you guys think I have bumped my head lol      


Post# 878736 , Reply# 95   4/27/2016 at 06:47 (2,917 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
That or

mopar65's profile picture

I fig for sh*&'s and giggles I have a 4,000 watt hot tub heater element laying around that will fit right in there all I would have to do is make a plate and drill to small holes for the element to go threw.


Post# 878741 , Reply# 96   4/27/2016 at 07:26 (2,917 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
56 Duo-Matic Air Heater

combo52's profile picture

Hi Anthony, i dough the water heater elements would work well, they are usually only copper sheathed and not designed to run very hot as the are immersed in water all the time. I have been thinking about this and have a few ideas, I will try to call you later.

 

John L.


Post# 878744 , Reply# 97   4/27/2016 at 07:33 (2,917 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
John L

mopar65's profile picture

I was thinking about that too. Sounds good it will be nice to talk to you anyway.  


Post# 880100 , Reply# 98   5/9/2016 at 13:36 (2,905 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
And we are

mopar65's profile picture
Somewhat washing! I got to do some work to it the last few days and it got its first test with water today. I would say it went well only two leaks one at the vary slight drip on the cold water solenoid and the other being the seal on the lint screen. I would say that's pretty good. I also made a temporary dryer element plate that has two elements from some cheep China combo part # WD-2500-05. They work pretty well and have been through 4 45 minute runs now with no issues.

Post# 880101 , Reply# 99   5/9/2016 at 13:38 (2,905 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture


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Post# 880104 , Reply# 100   5/9/2016 at 14:20 (2,905 days old) by Supersuds (Knoxville, Tenn.)        

supersuds's profile picture
Yay, you brought it back from the dead.

I'm sure it will look great, too, when you have time to pretty it up.


Post# 880114 , Reply# 101   5/9/2016 at 18:59 (2,905 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
56 Duo-Matic Air Heater

combo52's profile picture

Great progress, how many watts were the Chinese Combo Elements ?, you might need to use 3 or 4 of them to get to 4000 watts.


Post# 880126 , Reply# 102   5/9/2016 at 19:59 (2,905 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
John

mopar65's profile picture
I will call you tomorrow. I do agree I think it needs more wattage.

Post# 880721 , Reply# 103   5/14/2016 at 09:41 (2,900 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        
up date

mopar65's profile picture

On the fridge. My brother sent me these pics today. I think it came out good.


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Post# 881721 , Reply# 104   5/22/2016 at 07:49 (2,892 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Wow Anthony

jetcone's profile picture

Great progress on the '56!! You plugging away at it just fine !

 

I was going to start searching for a custom shop to get heat elements made for the dryer and the water heater. My magic heaters are both dead my '56 & '58. And  I love heated wash !!

I'll keep you posted on what I find !

That new boot looks TERRIFIC !!!


Post# 881779 , Reply# 105   5/22/2016 at 21:51 (2,892 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
Good luck with the magic heater. You may want to try bending a hot tub heater element. The wattage is the same and will work under water and they are cheep as dirt at $15 on line! The boot is grate! No leaks from it at all the only thing is the door doesn't want to close with it but that is a little adjustment.

Post# 895611 , Reply# 106   8/25/2016 at 06:09 (2,797 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        


mopar65's profile picture
I got the itch to do some more work done the other day. After I was done I washed/dried 4 loads yesterday. Now the bad, I had a feeling this was going to be a problem and I was right. The pump shaft seal is leaking when draining. But on the good side the cheap heating elements work grate! It takes about 20 to 30 min to dry a load. As for the pump shaft seal I can’t get the impeller off without heating it up real hot. Do you guys think I will damage anything by doing so? Or should I just put an electric pump in its place? I’m just afraid it would be really loud.

Anthony



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