W Laundromat Water Fill Test II

Most/all compact valves are 2-stage. Allows use of a much smaller solenoid because internal water pressure closes the valve instead of a huge return spring the solenoid would have to work against. A 1953 Hotpoint dishwasher has the huge spring and solenoid but I haven't seen one since.

So there is a diaphragm you'd expect, then there's a passage from the pilot stage of the valve to the stage that actually stops the water. The passage may be blocked. Perhaps more likely, the diaphragm is torn being 60yo rubber. The exact diaphragm for that valve is likely NLA, if it ever existed as a separate part in the first place, if the valve can be disassembled in the second place.

Take it apart if you can. Draw where each part goes unless you're VERY good at remembering such things. Clean out anything that looks like it doesn't belong, like chunks of calcium carbonate. If there are loose chunks of brittle rubber inside, skip from there to the next idea.

Considering how bad for your liver aspirin/tylenol are, save the headaches and replace the valve. There may be one that matches your mount, take the old one to the parts store for comparison. If not you'll have to improvise some.


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Post# 868225 2/21/2016 at 18:05 (2,984 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA )
Checkrate/Likes Tested the fill problem today and here are the results: Water fill valve and water pressure switch contacts and wire attachments are clean and hooked up right Machine Off - Water On = No Fill Machine On - Water On = Fill Machine On - Water fills contstantly and will not shut off as the water level is halfway up the window Disconnect pressure switch hose, blow into it, water still fills Shut machine off = Still fills with water Unplug machine = Still fills with water The thing I don't get is when the test is started with the machine off and water on, there is no fill, but when I shut the machine off and even unplug it, it still fills with water. I think the water valve is good but the pressure switch is bad, any ideas?

Post# 868230 , Reply# 1 2/21/2016 at 18:44 (2,984 days old) by DADoES (TX,�U.S. of A.)
Checkrate/Likes 2 � The valve is electric, it can't be "on" electrically if the machine is unplugged from power.� The pressure switch is electric so it's also out of the picture with no power.� Seems there's a physical problem with the valve is hanging open after it's energized and water flow through it commences.� Requires the supply faucets be turned off to relieve the internal flow pressure for it to close, yes?

Post# 868231 , Reply# 2 2/21/2016 at 18:49 (2,984 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)
Checkrate/Likes *I don't know a laundromat.* But I would say the rubber plates are bad and not sealing off.

Post# 868304 , Reply# 3 2/22/2016 at 06:14 (2,983 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))
Checkrate/Likes Most/all compact valves are 2-stage. Allows use of a much smaller solenoid because internal water pressure closes the valve instead of a huge return spring the solenoid would have to work against. A 1953 Hotpoint dishwasher has the huge spring and solenoid but I haven't seen one since. So there is a diaphragm you'd expect, then there's a passage from the pilot stage of the valve to the stage that actually stops the water. The passage may be blocked. Perhaps more likely, the diaphragm is torn being 60yo rubber. The exact diaphragm for that valve is likely NLA, if it ever existed as a separate part in the first place, if the valve can be disassembled in the second place. Take it apart if you can. Draw where each part goes unless you're VERY good at remembering such things. Clean out anything that looks like it doesn't belong, like chunks of calcium carbonate. If there are loose chunks of brittle rubber inside, skip from there to the next idea. Considering how bad for your liver aspirin/tylenol are, save the headaches and replace the valve. There may be one that matches your mount, take the old one to the parts store for comparison. If not you'll have to improvise some.

Post# 868314 , Reply# 4 2/22/2016 at 07:01 (2,983 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)
Checkrate/Likes 1 *Sticking Inlet Valve* It does sound like the valve has a problem. Jerry and I installed NEW rubber valve seals in this valve a few weeks ago [ as mentioned in an earlier post in this thread ], but in any event something is wrong. It could be a tiny bit of dirt in one of the bleed holes or a defective part. If you want to send the valve assembly back to me Jerry I would be glad to fix it. John L.

Post# 868344 , Reply# 5 2/22/2016 at 08:16 (2,983 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA )
Checkrate/Likes There could be particles backwashing through the water hoses to the valve.The first few times I ran it there was lots of sediment pumped out of it into the washtub....Ill send the valve out soon...please resend your address theough the message system or txt me

Post# 868368 , Reply# 6 2/22/2016 at 10:58 (2,983 days old) by glomain (tuscarawas cnty. (eastern ohio))
Checkrate/Likes *Jerry* sorry to hear you are having a problem w/ this valve,but as bad as my water is(its no surprise),its always eating up valves clogging filters & so on,(as you could see by the drum) my well has a lot of minerals in it,im sure you will figure it out.GOOD LUCK,Greg

Post# 869110 , Reply# 7 2/25/2016 at 19:10 (2,980 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA )
Checkrate/Likes 1 I found a water valve in my parts stash and after a short piece of hose and an adapter to bridge the diameter size between the valve and fill hose (and string to hold it up) Ill give this a try when I have energy to move this to the washtub for testing...hope it works! View Full Size