Thread Number: 64908  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Whirlpool Top Loader Won't Wash/Spin
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Post# 875348   4/2/2016 at 15:01 (2,938 days old) by paulinroyton (B)        

Hi

I have a Whirlpool top loader, model number 3RLSQ8000JQ1, it has stopped washing and spinning, when it should go onto the spin cycle it just makes a humming noise.

Could it be the coupler that has broken. I can buy a coupler from a website in the UK for about £20.

Cheers.

Paul





Post# 875370 , Reply# 1   4/2/2016 at 18:22 (2,938 days old) by whirlykenmore78 (Prior Lake MN (GMT-0500 CDT.))        

This post has been removed by the member who posted it.



Post# 875375 , Reply# 2   4/2/2016 at 19:20 (2,938 days old) by Stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)        

stricklybojack's profile picture
.
May need a water inlet valve. Ours did the same thing as you describe and the new valve fixed it.


Post# 875384 , Reply# 3   4/2/2016 at 20:00 (2,938 days old) by brucelucenta ()        

If it still fills and drains, then it is the coupler.

Post# 875390 , Reply# 4   4/2/2016 at 20:58 (2,938 days old) by Stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)        

stricklybojack's profile picture
.
Also make sure water is getting to the machine. Got the tap turned on etc...


Post# 875408 , Reply# 5   4/3/2016 at 02:07 (2,938 days old) by paulinroyton (B)        
Whirlpool

Thanks for comments

The machine still fills and drains, it won't wash or spin, the paddle is stiff to turn. Tried it on a spin and just the pump is working and sounds quite loud. The motor sounds as it's still engaged but the drum won't turn to spin.

Just wondered if it could be the coupler. Looked on YouTube and many people have said if a machine won't wash or spin then it's the coupler.

Thanks

Paul


Post# 875421 , Reply# 6   4/3/2016 at 07:18 (2,937 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
You've pretty much answered the question with your confirmation of additional details above ... but a simple way to find out is ... check for a broken coupler.  :-)

Disassembly is not difficult, and if the coupler IS broken then you're already there to replace it.

Your model has anchor screws on back of the console endcaps.  Remove the screws, pull the console slightly forward then flip upwards and back (it's hinged at the top corners).  Disconnect the lid switch harness and remove the two clips that anchor the cabinet to the rear panel.  Open the lid and tilt the cabinet forward and off the base.  Unclip the pump from the motor and move it aside (the hoses do not need to be removed).  Disconnect the motor harness, remove the screws from the anchor clips, and unclip the motor from the transmission ... which exposes the coupler ... half on the motor and half on the transmission.

Be sure to tap the coupler halves on so they're flush with the end of the respective shaft.


Post# 875451 , Reply# 7   4/3/2016 at 10:22 (2,937 days old) by hoovermad (England)        

It is the coupler. When you replace it make sure you get the updated version, it's stronger and won't break as often.

Post# 875458 , Reply# 8   4/3/2016 at 11:26 (2,937 days old) by paulinroyton (B)        
Whirlpool

Hi guys.

Thanks for everyone's help and advice. Have ordered the new coupler and it's the latest one so much stronger. Part should arrive by Tuesday.

😀😀


Post# 875476 , Reply# 9   4/3/2016 at 15:11 (2,937 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
Before you take her apart and put her back together again,

panthera's profile picture

You might want to watch one of the youtube videos on this. They're really easy to do, but there's a few tricks to know (cough, pump housing clips, cough) which can save you enormous time and trouble.

Here's one of several. 

 



CLICK HERE TO GO TO panthera's LINK

Post# 875546 , Reply# 10   4/4/2016 at 02:03 (2,937 days old) by paulinroyton (B)        
Whirpool

@panthera


Thanks for video link. Have looked at a few video links and this one looks interesting. Just waiting for part to arrive then the operation starts.

😀


Post# 875570 , Reply# 11   4/4/2016 at 08:20 (2,936 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
Paul,

panthera's profile picture

It's quite easy, really. changing out the pump isn't much harder. Take pics!

 


Post# 875588 , Reply# 12   4/4/2016 at 10:48 (2,936 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Laying the machine all the way on its back as shown probably will cause some spillage of the residual water in the tub/pump.  The example machine is completely dry so no spillage.  The coupling pieces may not come off quite as easily as shown, particularly the newer style with metal insert.  He also didn't tap the coupler halves properly into position such that they're flush with the ends of the motor and transmission shafts.  Leaving them too far extended puts a bind on the motor.


Post# 875590 , Reply# 13   4/4/2016 at 11:33 (2,936 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

I think there is a commercial coupler that lasts longer the perforations in the coupler are reinforced with metal.  They may all be made that way now.  Sometimes I accidentally open my machine during drains, causing the motor to pause and the neutral drain is then over it will begin to spin with water in the tub. I try to listen to see if the drain portion is over before I open it.  I think making them inadvertently spin drain causes more strain on the coupler than was intended.  When I need to peek inside I usually try to limit myself to my maytag LAT.  It could care less when you open it.   A


Post# 875592 , Reply# 14   4/4/2016 at 11:59 (2,936 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
I think making them inadvertently spin drain causes more strain on the coupler than was intended.
Whatever additional strain is involved is buffered by the spin clutch, not much effect on the coupler.  Keep in mind that the original direct-drive design did a spin-drain.  Neutral drain was put into effect a couple/few years later and there was no change to the coupler at that point far as I know.  There are any number of machines in existence that spin-drain due to worn neutral-drain components in the transmission to no appreciable ill-effect on the couplers.


Post# 875684 , Reply# 15   4/5/2016 at 10:04 (2,935 days old) by paulinroyton (B)        
Fixed

Hi everyone.

Just to say thank you to everyone with their input.

The part arrived today, it was a better quality coupler with metal inserts. I followed the YouTube information and information you guys said on here and she is up and working.

I have missed the machine so much. I did have an LG front loader but the cycles times far to long. With the top loader a load can be finished in about 35 - 40 mins.

Very happy now.

Paul



Post# 875700 , Reply# 16   4/5/2016 at 13:42 (2,935 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
Paul,

panthera's profile picture

Good for you! You know also now how to replace/repair just about every single thing which can (but seldom does) go wrong with this machine.




This post was last edited 04/05/2016 at 14:07

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