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Thread Number: 65749
/ Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
no power to drain valve kd-18 |
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| Post# 883158 6/1/2016 at 11:26 (2,879 days old) by app1 () | ||
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I have a kd-18 Kitchenaid dishwasher... mostly works fine. Now during all cycles there is no power to the drain valve. If I hit the cancel/drain button, the valve works fine and drains properly. Any ideas? | ||
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Post# 883159 , Reply# 1 6/1/2016 at 11:51 (2,879 days old) by Combo52  (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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No power to drain valve coil
Most likely a timer problem, if you are lucky it could be dirty contacts in the timer.
I would try connecting at least two 100 watt light bulbs to the wires going to the drain valve coil and letting the timer advance through a few drain periods, if there is dirt on the contacts this might burn it off. | ||
| Post# 883192 , Reply# 2 6/1/2016 at 16:24 (2,879 days old) by app1 () | ||
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no power to drain valve kd-18 superba it has a new timer | ||
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Post# 883308 , Reply# 4 6/2/2016 at 18:55 (2,878 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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No Automatic Drain When you push Cancel-Drain you set up a parallel circuit to the DV, you either have a bad timer or a broken pink wire or bad connection at the timer. Did you try a 200-500 watt load on the timer contact ? You may also be able to remove he timer and adjust the DV contact, otherwise try another timer. | ||
| Post# 883485 , Reply# 5 6/4/2016 at 11:29 (2,876 days old) by app1 () | ||
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No power` Thanks when i get back to it I was going to check the pink wire. What you pointed out about the parallel circuit is what i was looking for. | ||
| Post# 883492 , Reply# 6 6/4/2016 at 13:44 (2,876 days old) by app1 () | ||
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Pink wire is in good shape Ran a continuity check on all the wires and they all checked out | ||
| Post# 883832 , Reply# 8 6/7/2016 at 16:55 (2,873 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
I'm looking at the KDS-18 schematic wiring diagram as found in the service manual. According to it, the pink wire from the drain valve is connected to both a terminal on the timer, as well as a terminal on the push button switch unit. The diagram labels both timer and push button terminals "D". The push button switch connection provides power to the drain valve when the Cancel/Drain button is pressed, but the timer terminal should provide power over the same wire to the drain valve when it is time to drain. It does this through an "SIS", also known as a Sub Interval Switch. For the 90 second drain timer interval, this switch is open the first 5 seconds, closed the next 60 seconds, then open the last 25 seconds of the interval, which only lets the drain valve stay open for 60 seconds of the 90 second interval. This switch is also responsible for the low water level fills by only allowing the fill valve to receive power for 60 seconds out of the 90 second interval. Whether power is sent to the fill valve or the drain valve is controlled by another switch in the timer.
Check to see if the pink wire goes to the timer as well as the push button switch unit, and if it does, check that the connection at the timer terminal is good. | ||
| Post# 883879 , Reply# 12 6/7/2016 at 23:14 (2,873 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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Take a look at the schematics I've linked to on my web site below. I'm no expert by any means, but I'll try to explain how I think things should work.
If you trace the pink wire backwards from the drain valve, you'll see where it goes to both the push button assembly, and where it goes into the timer at terminal D. Notice how it goes to the lower half of a timer contact switch. The other side of that switch goes up to the SIS switch, which is closed for 60 seconds per timer interval. You'll also notice the top half of the timer contact switch heads out of the timer via terminal F and through the dark blue wire to the overflow protection switch, and then through the black wire to the fill valve... this is the path that is taken to do a low level fill, where a long fill is controlled by the timer contact T3 when it is in the up position, as it is in the diagram. Notice that power to the SIS switch is provided by timer contacts 16, 17, 18, 19 or 15, which all come from the push button assembly depending on what button happens to be pressed. But in all cases, if power is getting to the SIS switch from the push button assembly, you should have both low level fills and drains. You can check this by starting a Normal cycle and timing how long the fill valve stays open for the first fill. If the dishwasher fills for around 60 seconds, then power is getting to the SIS switch, and power should be coming out of terminal D at drain time when the SIS switch is closed, as long as the fill/drain contact is working correctly in the timer. If there are no low fills as well as no drains other than Cancel/Drain, then the SIS switch is not getting power from the push button assembly, and you need to check the wires between timer terminals 16, 17, 18, 19, and 15 to the corresponding terminals on the push button assembly, as well as the push button assembly itself. Also, have you tried any of the other cycle buttons, such as Rinse and Hold, to see if drains work in those cycles? If not, and you find one or more cycles where the drains do work, then it will help isolate a bad wire/push button between timer and push button assembly. CLICK HERE TO GO TO barcoboy's LINK | ||
| Post# 884004 , Reply# 14 6/8/2016 at 17:12 (2,872 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL) | ||
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If it is the program switch I will gladly send you one to try out and see if you resolve the problem. | ||
| Post# 884454 , Reply# 16 6/10/2016 at 16:56 (2,870 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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Here's another test you can try.
Grab a stop watch, latch the dishwasher door, and start timing as soon as you hit the Normal Wash button to start the cycle. Open the dishwasher door somewhere between the 1:37 and 2:33 mark (to be safe, right around the 2 minute mark). During this time period, the dishwasher should be draining from the first prewash. Now, remove all power to the dishwasher, and with a continuity tester, take a reading between terminal D on the timer, and terminals 16, 17, 18, 19, and 15. One or more of these combinations should give you continuity; if not, the timer is the culprit... more specifically, the contact switch to the left of terminal D on the schematic. This is assuming of course that your short fills also work, one of which would be the first fill of the Normal cycle. | ||
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Post# 884502 , Reply# 17 6/10/2016 at 22:46 (2,870 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN) |
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BFH hah! | ||
| Post# 885079 , Reply# 19 6/14/2016 at 09:30 (2,866 days old) by app1 () | ||
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forgot this one Another pic
View Full Size
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| Post# 885110 , Reply# 20 6/14/2016 at 12:22 (2,866 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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Very odd... looking at the schematics again, I just can't see how the problem could have been the program selector switch if the low fills work and the drain doesn't... unless the bad switch was sending power to the fill valve the entire time and only the float switch was shutting the water off.
Oh well, what's important is that you got it working! | ||
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