Thread Number: 65862  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Need advice with Kenmore 70 series
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Post# 884076   6/8/2016 at 23:29 (2,876 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
A friend of mine has an older Kenmore, and it's been leaking a little water. From what I can see it's been leaking from a fairly new pump, and the tub seal. Since I have the tub seal, and the spanner wrench, thought I'd start there. Removed the cabinet etc. Removed tub nut..But can't seem to budge the inner tub loose!
I sprayed WD 40.. Filled with hot water and let set 15 min.. But still no luck.
Decided to spray with more WD-40 and wait further advice from here. I've fine this before on my Kenmore? I'm i doing something wrong, or is it rusted on?


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Post# 884082 , Reply# 1   6/9/2016 at 00:49 (2,876 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
I tried

stan's profile picture
Standing in it a rocking back and forth.. Buy maybe not enough... I don't weigh very much? LOL

Post# 884083 , Reply# 2   6/9/2016 at 00:58 (2,876 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
The pump

stan's profile picture
Was leaking from here? I see no cracks on it anywhere.

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Post# 884168 , Reply# 3   6/9/2016 at 11:20 (2,876 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
WP DD Pump.

volvoguy87's profile picture
One thing to watch out for on Whirlpool Direct Drive pumps is the installation. If the old pump had been leaking for some time, the shaft may have started to rust. When the shaft rusts, it can seem to swell. This is especially common if the old pump really fought you when you tried to take it off. If you don't file the shaft back into profile, it will be difficult to reinstall the pump. If you have to force or pound the pump on, the seal in it will fail and it will leak.

I see no obvious sign of failure in your picture (but I could be wrong). I'd say to put it back on the washer and fill it up without the cabinet installed. See where the leak is coming form. Other options may be a worn hose, a faulty water valve, or a bad tub seal.

Good luck,
Dave


Post# 884177 , Reply# 4   6/9/2016 at 11:54 (2,876 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Not unusual the basket is stuck to the drive block ... have to get aggressive to break it loose (or patient for chemicals to work) but careful of chipping the porcelain.


Post# 884188 , Reply# 5   6/9/2016 at 12:52 (2,876 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Old pump

stan's profile picture
(That's less than a year old)
Came off very easy. But leaks right where the Screwdriver is pointing in the pic.
So I've ordered a new one ?
I may try standing in it again now that it's soaked a while with the WD-40.
Next idea is use a 2+4 and a car jack to see if I can get some kind of leverage.


Post# 884213 , Reply# 6   6/9/2016 at 14:58 (2,875 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Wash Basket

mrb627's profile picture

The wash basket is probably the heaviest part of this machine. Standing in it was the first thought i had. How much do you weigh? Shouldn't take a 200lb person to break it free? My second choice would be to continue with the chemical attack.

Malcolm



Post# 884234 , Reply# 7   6/9/2016 at 15:44 (2,875 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
I just replaced one of those pumps that was leaking from that area as well....as noted, couldn't find it until the cabinet was off, yet looked clean.....

and oddly enough with the new one, it squealed while agitating, so had to take it off and put a few drops of oil in that slot to quiet it down.....

sometimes you almost have to jump side to side to get that fitting to break loose, but it will let loose eventually.....


keep us posted of your progress.....


Post# 884355 , Reply# 8   6/10/2016 at 01:43 (2,875 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Thanks

stan's profile picture
Malcolm and Martin.
I'll keep trying
I might get my friends fat husband out there, and get him to stand in it! LOL


Post# 884404 , Reply# 9   6/10/2016 at 09:19 (2,875 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
FSP Warranty.

volvoguy87's profile picture
Whirlpool's parts division is called FSP. Their parts have a 1 year warranty. To make a warranty claim, you'll need a receipt, the model number of the washer, and the serial number too.

Sounds like it's a defective pump.
Dave


Post# 884407 , Reply# 10   6/10/2016 at 09:39 (2,875 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Thanks Dave

stan's profile picture
Should have ordered from them ! The last one came from eBay

Post# 884514 , Reply# 11   6/11/2016 at 01:34 (2,874 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Success

stan's profile picture
I wasn't heavy enough to break it loose, so I got her husband to do the Temtation walk in it and it finally let go!
Drive block came out with it.
Now to clean it up, replace the seal (that from I can seal looks O.K?) replace the leaking pump. Hopefully everything goes back together with any more difficulties


Post# 884601 , Reply# 12   6/11/2016 at 15:50 (2,873 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Cool

mrb627's profile picture
Good that it was able to be broken free.
I have had a run a crap parts from eBay purchases. Namely, whirlpool dryer heating elements. Supposedly an fsp part. Went through two of them that failed in under a year. Shameful.

Malcolm


Post# 884645 , Reply# 13   6/12/2016 at 02:04 (2,873 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
This new pump

stan's profile picture
Came today, another eBay seller..$9.00 so can't complain if it goes out! And this one..like the last, has no marking on it. No part number, no indication of where it's made. I notice that the part that slides over the drive shaft is a plastic/nylon material, instead of metal?
We'l see.
If this one goes out I'll check with FSP.
The old tub seal looks O.K and can't see how water got past it, but there is no other place it could be coming from, so tomorrow everything goes back together with a new seal.
Watch the SOB will still leak! LOL
Here's the new pump


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Post# 884668 , Reply# 14   6/12/2016 at 07:21 (2,873 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Neutral Drain?

mrb627's profile picture
Wonder if the machine is failing the neutral drain, causing water to ride against the seal around the splash guard and leak down to the base. The other issue I have run into is un level floor causin tub to lean forward. Fill water collecting or splashing over the splash guard.

Hope it is a simple issue...

Malcolm


Post# 884763 , Reply# 15   6/12/2016 at 18:10 (2,872 days old) by delaneymeegan (Midwest)        

delaneymeegan's profile picture

 

 

 

Thanks for sharing the pics.  I hope all works out.


Post# 884787 , Reply# 16   6/12/2016 at 20:09 (2,872 days old) by dartman (Portland Oregon)        

Had a similar machine for many years. The pump was bad when we got it after supposedly being rebuilt and we kept a drip pan and a sponge under it as I didn't want to tear it out of the tiny bathroom/laundry room it was in. Finally got motivated and pulled it out and removed the case. The pump was 20 bucks at a close local used appliance shop and the slightly improved version. It was actually easy to do, pump wasn't stuck on and it didn't leak and was quiet. 5 years later pump failed again the day we were getting ready to move to this house I bought so waited till move was done and went back to the same shop and bought another pump, now for 30 bucks. Guy said the pumps can last 30 years if your clothes aren't full of grit and sand but if you do a lot of sandy dirty loads they last about 5 years. My clothes are always full of sand and crap so 5 years.
This pump also went in fine from underneath and didn't leak and I even marked the date it was replaced on the housing.
BUT I replaced it a year later and sold it to a local rebuilds guy still working for 30 bucks just to get rid of it and hope it got redone again and sold cheap to a needy family. It was a good washer and easy to fix but very noisy and used a ton of water, which is a problem with the overpriced sewer/water bill we get now. It was 306 bucks for the first full bill. With the new Kenmore 28102 bill dropped 50 bucks every 3 months and it's quiet and bigger.


Post# 885014 , Reply# 17   6/14/2016 at 01:09 (2,871 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Hi guys

stan's profile picture
Had partial success..
Since the tub block came off with the tub, I think thats the new problem.
I cleaned and replaced the tubs seal on the outer tub.. (Fairly easy)
Used a rag and a screwdriver, the garden hose ect to clean the center portion of the inner tub. (Where the floating tub block was) There was no way the block was going to come out.. So I positioned it, (upside down) use a screwdriver and a hammer to drive the block back up into position while still in the tub, or at least I tried to.
At that point I already had the outer tub in, pump hooked up, water level tube in, ect.
Dropped the inner tub in, and pushed down. It seemed like it went in correctly. Tub nut went on without a problem. Finished reassembly.
The good news is that nothing leaks! But when the machine finishes spinning..it makes a load wobbling sound.
The only thing I can think of is that I don't have the tub in right? Thought I'd try taking it apart again.. Maybe get the husband to stand in it to make sure it seated good, and try again.
Any thoughts?


Post# 885016 , Reply# 18   6/14/2016 at 01:19 (2,871 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Malcolm

stan's profile picture
The Neutral drain works, but only with a full heavy load (neutral drain pack Im sure is worn)
But the leak must have come from the old tub seal.


Post# 885018 , Reply# 19   6/14/2016 at 01:29 (2,871 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Terry

stan's profile picture
Sounds like you sure got your money's worth with your old Kenmore. I believe her machine is a 1994 model. If I get this working it will probably go on for years.

Post# 885117 , Reply# 20   6/14/2016 at 13:06 (2,871 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Wonder if

stan's profile picture
The tub block (drive block) is distorted or something from standing, rocking the tub to get the tub out? Machine didn't do this prior to disassemble.

Post# 885140 , Reply# 21   6/14/2016 at 16:44 (2,870 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Drive Block

mrb627's profile picture
Is the drive block fully seated on the tabs of the drive shaft? Perhaps freewheeling?

Malcolm


Post# 885145 , Reply# 22   6/14/2016 at 17:12 (2,870 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Thank Malcolm

stan's profile picture
I'll check!

Post# 885146 , Reply# 23   6/14/2016 at 17:14 (2,870 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        
What Malcolm said...

kenmoreguy64's profile picture
I was going to suggest the same thing. It was a common error in the belt-drive washers to mis-install the drive block on the spin tube. The ears on the spin tube are meant to install into the notches/tabs on the drive block.

If the drive block has had the tabs sheared off, or the ears have gone bad on the spin tube, there won't be a way to mechanically link the spin tube to the drive block and basket, and this creates a nasty groaning sound, especially during breaking.

Since the design of the old belt-drive and the direct-drive machines are nearly identical in this specific area, it seems logical that this could happen on direct drives as well.

Gordon


Post# 885217 , Reply# 24   6/14/2016 at 23:32 (2,870 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Thanks for stoping by

stan's profile picture
Gordon
Yes at present there is a groaning sound!
I'm going over tomorrow to take another run at this.
I'm anticipating a problem finding the tabs on the drive block and aligning them with the ears on the spin tube because the drive block came out with the tub!
Did my best to fish it out through the bottom of the tub, but no luck.. Hopefully there not sheared off! And that I'll be able to see the tabs while still in the tub, and get things lined up.


Post# 885222 , Reply# 25   6/15/2016 at 00:15 (2,870 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Think I'll try

stan's profile picture
Getting a length of pipe to go through the tub, and try knocking the tub block out of the bottom.
(Where it should have come from)
If I can..then I can at least have a good look at it! and maybe put this back the right way, or ordering a new one.. And by putting the block back on the spin tube independently of the tub (spin basket)


Post# 885420 , Reply# 26   6/15/2016 at 23:52 (2,869 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Success!

stan's profile picture
Got a length of pipe knocked out the block that was still in the tub. Then was able to see the tabs!
Cleaned up the block ect and everything went together easy.
Washer runs perfect, and quite.
Thank guys for your help with this. Working in a dark garage.. Don't know if I'd have noticed the ears and tabs had they not been mentioned.



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