Thread Number: 66226  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
KitchenAid KDS-20 Rinse aid dispenser
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Post# 888241   7/5/2016 at 12:22 (2,823 days old) by Ausmith (Wauwatosa)        

I did a complete overhaul of the dishwasher a year ago including a new rinse dispenser, but I don't think the rinse dispenser is working. It never seems to need refilling. How tight are you supposed to tighten the filler cap? I have the front panel off; is there a way to see if it is working?





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Post# 888254 , Reply# 1   7/5/2016 at 13:39 (2,823 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

toploader55's profile picture
I have a few extra dispensers if you need one. Otherwise they are going away forever.

Post# 888265 , Reply# 2   7/5/2016 at 14:58 (2,823 days old) by Ausmith (Wauwatosa)        

Dear Toploader55,

I appreciate your offer, but I would like to determine if I need one first,

As I said, I replaced the rinse dispenser a year ago. (different dispenser, new wires etc) In all the years I have owned the dishwasher it seemed like it really didn't use much Jet Dry. I am not sure just how the dispenser works. Since the only way the rinse agent can be released is at the filler cap, is that only supposed to be screwed in loosely?

Could someone explain the mechanics of how it dispenses the rinse agent?


Post# 888277 , Reply# 3   7/5/2016 at 15:54 (2,823 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

I'm pretty sure there's a bimetallic spring that sets off the dispenser.  On your machine, Hobart placed this mechanism where there was strong potential of exposure to moisture.   Once Whirlpool took over, they corrected this problem almost immediately.

 

You'll have to wait for the experts to add their posts for troubleshooting advice.


Post# 888311 , Reply# 4   7/5/2016 at 20:41 (2,823 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
What did whirlpool fix?

Ralph, I think you are thinking about how whirlpool saw fit to turn the DETERGENT dispenser 180 degrees to lessen the chances of water dripping past the door shaft o-rings and shorting out the wiring on the bi-metal heaters. They did nothing to improve upon the detergent rinse agent dispenser.
I am attaching the service lit on the r/a dispenser to help troubleshoot possible problems.

I have seen where the wrong product or chemical was placed into the dispenser and it had a deleterious effect on the plunger and caused it to malfunction.
Personally, I never liked the bimetal powered RA dispenser, though when they worked, you could hear the difference in the water action after the agent mixed in with the rinse water.

I don't think we will ever know why Hobart was so stubborn about embracing what other manufacturers were doing like delaying the timer advance to heat the water to proper temps or turning over the det. dispensers to prevent short circuits. Geez, even I did that years before having seen the wires burned off and rusted.

If anyone wants the full manual, just email me and I will forward it to you.


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Post# 888313 , Reply# 5   7/5/2016 at 21:40 (2,823 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Faulty RAD

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It looks like the plastic ring that holds the dispenser to the door is missing ? It does not matter how tight the cap is, the RA comes out a little hole under the cap.

 

This RAD uses a bi-metal that is wired in series with the main motor, the timer runs the motors current through the bi-metal when it is time to release RA, you can put an amp meter on the wire going through the bi-metal and see if the timer is doing its job, you can also see if the BM has continuity, if it doesn't the main motor will stop for about one minute during the final rinse.

 

Even if everything is working electrically, the RAD may be bad and need replacement. I personally do not brother with using RA in my DWs, everything comes out great and spot free and dry without even using heated dry in any of the 5 DWs I use on a regular basis. And I really don't like the idea of ingesting RA as the warn you on the bottle not to ingest it.

 

John L.


Post# 888321 , Reply# 6   7/6/2016 at 00:13 (2,823 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        
Right you are Steve!

rp2813's profile picture

Thanks for correcting and clarifying.

 

Ralph


Post# 888360 , Reply# 7   7/6/2016 at 07:13 (2,822 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

beekeyknee's profile picture
I'll add one thing, Ralph. If you have the front panel off while the machine is running, during the final rinse you will see the little plastic rod on top of the dispenser slowly raise and lower, releasing the rinse agent. No equipment needed. Just a watchful eye.

Post# 888441 , Reply# 8   7/6/2016 at 18:41 (2,822 days old) by Ausmith (Wauwatosa)        

Thank you for all the thoughtful replies. The plastic ring securing it to the door is in place.

Thank you beekeyknee, I will watch for the rod to raise the next time I do dishes, I was hoping for a simple way to see if it was working.

If it doesn't I will try the amp meter as Combo52 suggested.

It never seemed like I needed the rinse agent before because the glasses were always sparkling so I didn't pursue the RA seeming to last for a very long time.

When I overhauled the washer a year ago I switched detergent from Cascade liquid to Finish Powerball tablets. It seemed fine for a while but for the last couple of months, the glasses and sometimes dishes have a white residue. I took the washer apart to under the blue plastic parts under the pump and there was a lot of sandy "gravel-like" residue. I cleaned it out and think I will go back to Cascade liquid or gel. Does anyone have thoughts on the best detergent for these old machines?


Post# 888492 , Reply# 9   7/7/2016 at 04:43 (2,821 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

toploader55's profile picture
It's just me but...

I will only use powders in these older machines. Liquids you pay for water.

Maybe it's my water but Cascade Complete gives me great results everytime in my KitchenAids, KenWhirl and Reverse Rack.


Post# 888501 , Reply# 10   7/7/2016 at 06:48 (2,821 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture

I second what Eddie said - I tried a powerball-type detergent once in a vintage dishwasher and it wasn't pretty!  Granted it was the '58 Spin-Tube but the results were not good and I also noticed that sandy residue in the sump area so I figured it wasn't a good idea to use these products.  I've pretty well always used powders (Cascade is my current fave) and all has been well, even in the really old machines that do not have a rinse agent dispenser.  


Post# 888519 , Reply# 11   7/7/2016 at 09:04 (2,821 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR)        
I third what Eddie said.

chachp's profile picture

 

I used a Quantum (I think it was) tab in my 20 one time and I could here the difference.  It didn't seem like it was spraying at full force and I noticed the bottom was filled with foam.  My KDS-20 is my daily driver and I've only had the cloudy issue once with two very old measuring cups I bought at an estate sale.  I assumed it was just because they were so old.  All my other glasses are just fine.

 

My favorites are Cascade complete and Finish.  I buy the Cascade when it's on sale but when not I buy the Finish.



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