Thread Number: 66275
/ Tag: Wringer Washers
Maytag E2L restoration |
[Down to Last] |
|
Post# 888740 , Reply# 1   7/9/2016 at 11:49 (2,819 days old) by BigTerKC (Kansas City)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
I'm hoping someday to snag me a nice Maytag wringer like this. I've heard them mention on here about Phil in NY that sells parts for the Maytag Wringers, you might look up on Ebay for his online store.
This webpage might be of help for the emblems. www.maytagclub.com/page-3.htm... Good luck, and post progress pictures! Terry |
Post# 888823 , Reply# 2   7/10/2016 at 03:32 (2,818 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
You have to tell us about the car in the background.. Can't see it very well, is it a 50 Buick? What's the story?
Since your into old cars.. You may be able to get a body shop to do a repaint on the Maytag. Decals are available. Let us know if you have trouble with the Maytag Club not having Im no pro, so this is just a suggestion ..Think you'll have a lot of wet sanding! Start with a course enough grit to remove as much rust and pitting as possible. Wash down, then try some scratch filling primer, then.. more wet sanding..say with 600-800 grit, wash down, then maybe try the appliance paint. I've never used it but others here have. You may be able to wet sand between coats. While I've done something similar (years ago) on my old Maytag, I was using a oil based enamel. The appliance Apoxxi may be better? Best I can think of for smoothest finish. |
Post# 888925 , Reply# 4   7/11/2016 at 02:17 (2,817 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
posted with your progress, and your repaint, since you have auto body experience.. I'd be interested seeng pics of how it should be done by a pro! As mentioned.. I did mine with oil based enamel, sanded and used fine cut cleaner between coats.
(I was able to fill in some scratches and pitting with just the paint) Finishing with fine cut and waxing. I know there has to be a better way to do this then what I did. |
Post# 888969 , Reply# 8   7/11/2016 at 11:07 (2,817 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
I got my decals off Ebay. Go to the Ebay website and type in MAYTAG DECALS. There're all there! Good Luck. Larry |
Post# 888973 , Reply# 10   7/11/2016 at 11:15 (2,817 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
1    
Don't know if there's any benefit to how I painted mine.. but it has held up really well. I'd trust Larry on that since he's used the appliance paint.
The serial number should be stamped into the back of your machine (opposite sid as ur pull nob) near the edge of the aluminum crown. This is how you can find your machines birthdate. I was able to guess it was a 50 Buick.. I have a 50 Plymouth Dose the Buick have a straight 6 or straight 8? Here's a couple if shots of the Plymouth (she has some issues) |
Post# 890450 , Reply# 14   7/22/2016 at 12:59 (2,806 days old) by vacerator (Macomb, Michigan)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Pontiac Grand Prix of either 1974, 5, or '76 vintage is parked behind your Plymouth in the picture. |
Post# 890471 , Reply# 15   7/22/2016 at 15:11 (2,806 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Hey Bob,
I used that paint very successfully on my 1948 Kenmore wringer washer's lid, skirt, and drain boards. It came out very smooth, however, I did not use a primer, as the instructions on the can state "Priming is not recommended." Wonder if that has anything to do with your result of a bumpy finish. |
Post# 890532 , Reply# 16   7/23/2016 at 01:19 (2,806 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Wish I some experience with the appliance epoxy..
I can't imagine priming it made it bumpy, especially since you wet sanded the primer afterwards? Wonder if you could use a fine cut cleaner then polish instead of having to wet sand again? Let us know if you find a touch up paint for the release bar that matches. Mine is the red one, and I used plastic paint on it. Your machine looks good..might leave well enough alone, but I'll be interested to know if and how you smooth out the finish! @ Mike. Yes it a 76 G.P 400.000 miles and still drives like new. Hope I didn't jinx it by saying that! |
Post# 890568 , Reply# 18   7/23/2016 at 08:51 (2,805 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
1) I've used the Rustoleum spray appliance enamel quite a bit over the years and the only times I've had bumps were under high humidity/high temp conditions. It's not normal. Quality won't be automotive, but should be very good. 2) For what it's worth, when visiting a cousin's shop in the US back in the early 60's, I saw many many Maytags lined up next to each other. There were minor variations in the blue spectrum in them, although they were fresh and new from the factory. So - don't sweat the exact color thingy. If they didn't come that way from Newton originally, I see no reason to worry about it today. 3) It's not cheap, but I have had very good long-term results using J-B Weld 8265S as filler on aluminium and mixed substrates in wet environments. I know it's a bit of overkill, but it seems to balance out my lack of skills very well. 4) There are a lot of these Maytags still in use (many Amish in our area) so I would guess with a bit of patience, you'll find the parts. 5) From experience, I'd make sure the transmission oil is well protected before any major work, whether sanding or painting or using solvents.
Personally, anyone who can make a '50 Buick Special look that good can make a Maytag look great.
Oh, and as daily drivers, these are wonderful washers. For whatever reason, that tub/agitator design just plain cleans. |
Post# 890592 , Reply# 20   7/23/2016 at 12:20 (2,805 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 890676 , Reply# 21   7/23/2016 at 21:49 (2,805 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
If you're seriously into 3mm territory, I wonder whether it wouldn't be better to just make sure you've stopped the corrosive action of whatever attacked the aluminium and let it go at that. Wow. As to sanding and polishing JB-Weld, yup. It seems (to me) to fall somewhere along the lines of a harder aluminium alloy than the original Maytag tubs and lids, but it works with a hand sander and buffer just great. This sounds like a very neat project, do keep us abreast. |
Post# 890687 , Reply# 22   7/24/2016 at 00:05 (2,805 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 890689 , Reply# 23   7/24/2016 at 00:06 (2,805 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 890725 , Reply# 24   7/24/2016 at 09:26 (2,804 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
1    
I used appliance epoxy spray to refinish a Hobart KA stand mixer I got pretty cheap but was pretty beat up, looks brand new. I've also had good luck using it on an old Saxophone and an old French Horn, both of which had no hope left for their lacquer finishes. I removed the lacquer and just sprayed the epoxy on the bare metal without primer. Really gave those old horns a new life!!! |