Thread Number: 67154
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
GE Filter Flo with a rust hole, help? |
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Post# 898744   9/14/2016 at 15:50 (2,778 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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I recently acquired an odd GE Filter Flo that is in decent cosmetic shape. It's a higher-end model and it lacks wash and rinse temp selection, instead it's all controlled by the cycle selection buttons on the left. I shall post pics after I get home from work.
It looks like a larger capacity machine, it has its mini-basket, it has a white ramp agitator, and I think it has the larger filter pan. The issue is that I started testing it out and found it leaked water as fast as it filled. The rubber boot had slipped off in the outer tub. That is an easy fix. Unfortunately, the bottom of the outer tub had a coating of rust and crud. After cleaning that, I found a small rust hole in the sump area, smaller than a pencil eraser. I think I can patch this hole, I just need to know what to use and how to do it. I am guessing I'll need some sort of 2-part moldable epoxy. I assume I'll need to apply it to the inside of the tub. What sort of prep should I do? What is a good product to use? How should I apply it? Should I use any treatment on top of or around the patch, such as POR-15? As for other stuff, I don't do much with GE Filter Flos, although I have replaced the belt and clutch on one before. Should I apply a preventative coating of POR-15 around the inside of top of the outer tub where the inner tub has struck it? Thank you for your input, Dave |
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Post# 898746 , Reply# 1   9/14/2016 at 16:22 (2,778 days old) by ken (NYS)   |   | |
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You could use an epoxy putty to seal the hole but if you don't do something to seal the rust first it will continue under the putty. If it were me fixing this Id use POR 15 with fiberglass cloth. You're sealing the rust from continuing at the same time you're fixing the hole. As long as I was in there Id treat the areas of the outer tub too. Cant hurt. If possible use POR 15 outside and wear gloves. And I always wear a cartridge type respirator.
This post was last edited 09/14/2016 at 18:40 |
Post# 898755 , Reply# 2   9/14/2016 at 17:29 (2,778 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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yeah, I would go with the POR15 with the fiberglass patch.....
or POR15 on top, and a fiberglass patch with epoxy underneath... any combination would work well..... if you have one hole already, poke around a bit to see if anymore are ready to pop through......might as well treat it all while you have it apart... |
Post# 898763 , Reply# 3   9/14/2016 at 18:08 (2,778 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 898775 , Reply# 4   9/14/2016 at 20:31 (2,778 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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I have the control panel end caps and top. I had to remove them to get it to fit into my Honda Element. I will reinstall them once I have done a few test washes and made sure that I do not need to get into the control panel.
Any thoughts as to year manufactured or where this one was positioned in the model lineup? Dave |
Post# 898776 , Reply# 5   9/14/2016 at 20:44 (2,778 days old) by ken (NYS)   |   | |
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Post# 898786 , Reply# 6   9/14/2016 at 22:51 (2,778 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 898795 , Reply# 7   9/15/2016 at 00:15 (2,778 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)   |   | |
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Post# 898828 , Reply# 8   9/15/2016 at 09:17 (2,778 days old) by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)   |   | |
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