Thread Number: 67530  /  Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
KitchenAid by Hobart 		[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 902563   10/10/2016 at 20:13 (2,744 days old) by Number6 (Olympia)        

I am brand new to the forum. I regard myself as only "semi-handy" in terms of mechanical repairs. I am willing to take a stab at it and hope that through advice and luck I MAY succeed.

I recently got a vintage dishwasher from the 50's: Kitchenaid by Hobart. I think the model number is: KD-2P. I was told that it worked properly when I bought, but sadly... it has problems. I took it to a local small town appliance repair guy, as I figured the older gentlemen there might be used to handling everything, including vintage.

I was told that the machine has two problems: 1) a disconnected or broken switch, but by reaching down inside, it could turn on and work; but, 2) the "sump assembly" was leaking. He said that part was all one unit and that he could not get the part for the old machine.

So: does anyone know if the necessary parts are available? If so, where can I find them? Or perhaps this sump assembly can be repaired rather than replaced, even though the repairman said it could not be repaired? I have not dived in myself until trying to get more information. I am grateful that this forum exists and hope someone has some good news/advice. I'm including a photo. Thanks.

  View Full Size



Post# 902621 , Reply# 1   10/11/2016 at 06:12 (2,744 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
KD2-P

 toploader55's profile picture
Welcome to AW.

These machines seem to have problems with the Drain Valves. Which are as rare as Hen's Teeth these days.

Be extremely careful of the Bakelite Trap. Those are almost impossible to find.

I had one and installed a new drain valve that was available from Hobart but was well over $200.00.

Good Luck and there are many experts here that may know where parts could be available.



  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size
Post# 902653 , Reply# 2   10/11/2016 at 12:03 (2,744 days old) by Number6 (Olympia)        
that sounds like the problem

 Toploader -

Thanks for the comment! It led me to a search on "Hobart drain valve" which in turn led me to earlier threads on this forum about similar issues with this machine.

From what that repair guy said to me, water was pouring out the bottom of the machine when running. Comments from the earlier thread indicate that the solenoid in the drain valve is OPEN unless running... so that means that since it is not closing under power, either the solenoid in the drain valve is broken or that it is simply not getting power. This gives me a place to start.

This physical condition of the machine is really good, too nice to give up. We are using all 1950s appliances in a home we have restored and we hope to have this working as part of the set.

Post# 902699 , Reply# 3   10/11/2016 at 18:59 (2,743 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Drain Valve woes

 You might as well know right off the bat that there are NO drain valves available anymore thru Hobart and as far as they are concerned, they sold Kitchenaid to Whirlpool 30 years ago and there is no reason to have or stock any items from the domestic product line. That includes dishwashers, disposers and the small electrics like the mixers.

Whirlpool decided to discontinue and obsolete nearly all the Kitchenaid parts that were designed by Hobart not long after they stopped producing the 23 series of dishwashers. They also sold off the disposer division to Viking and we are left with few or no sources for replacement parts except those that might be common to what they produce today.
There are some limited items which Hobart still uses which were related to the earlier domestic machines but those might be the 18 thru 20 series machines. Machines built prior to those have no parts available anymore.

Some of us on here do have used and a few new in box parts but you have to ask and let us see what we have.

You may want to see for yourself just where your machine is leaking and maybe you will find that it is nothing very complicated. All the drain parts that Ed(Toploader55)showed above were sealed to each other by means of o-rings which could have dried out and leak now and if the springs on the drain valve you see in the pictures are broken or missing, that can effect the operation of the drain valve too. And obviously, if the drain solenoid itself is bad (a common occurrence in very well used machines of that time) the drain will not close when it should and all the water would be pumped out of the machine when it is running.

So take a look at it yourself and give us a bit more info and let's see if we cannot get this machine going again for you.

Post# 902701 , Reply# 4   10/11/2016 at 19:25 (2,743 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

toploader55's profile picture
Thank You Dr. Bombay from th Intergalactical Hobart Universe. (stevet)

Here is a link that should help you though your KD2-P woes...
www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T...




Post# 902702 , Reply# 5   10/11/2016 at 19:28 (2,743 days old) by Number6 (Olympia)        
will do, stevet...

 ... I'll see if I can accomplish anything this week.

I read something on an earlier thread about these units (and I've not read them all yet) about removing the drain valve and soaking parts in a lubricant that will not harm plastics, and perhaps loosening up stuck parts. If no springs are missing/loose, what sort of product would be used to soak it? Also, can the solenoid be replaced alone without replacing the whole drain valve?

The unit and the house it goes in are in Iowa, and I am only here for the rest of this week then gone for the whole winter. I may just load the dishwasher in the truck and bring it back to WA (my other home) so I can make progress this winter.

I appreciate the advice, and we'll just see what - if anything - can be done.

Post# 902773 , Reply# 6   10/12/2016 at 12:35 (2,743 days old) by Number6 (Olympia)        
opened her up, and...

 found that someone put a bunch of JB Weld on the connection. I don't know if that is where it is leaking, but I'm sure it is where someone THOUGHT it was leaking.

I've included pics so people more knowledgeable than I can tell if something else looks wrong. It seems like all the springs are there. The arm to the solenoid moves freely up and down... not stuck.

Suggestions for next step? I was wondering if it will hurt it to run it with no water to see if the solenoid does indeed flip that valve on/off. If it does work, then should I put a little water in and see where it leaks????

(I fixed the start switch that the repair guy said was broken or disconnected. Just disconnected, fortunately.)

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 6         View Full Size
Post# 902835 , Reply# 7   10/12/2016 at 22:51 (2,742 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
DRIP, DRIP, DRIP!

 Well, someone did not apply the JB weld very well! Or used the incorrect type. Anytime there is water, it should be the marine type, but,I digress!

Yes, there is an o-ring that would have sealed those two pieces together and there was also a small spring clamp that encircled where they joined together to keep the locked in place. Check the pics that Ed posted.

If you decide to try to separate those parts, carefully chip away at the JB weld and hope for the best. Then try some PB blaster and see if you can't work the parts loose and then go from there. If you get them apart and repalce the o ring, it should really hold together pretty well without the small wire clamp. Most of them probably rusted away away after so many years.

I don't have a parts breakdown of that assembly handy so I cannot provide the part number you would need, but I am sure someone here will have it. I will gladly check availability for you when you get it.

Post# 902848 , Reply# 8   10/13/2016 at 05:52 (2,742 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

toploader55's profile picture
Hope this helps.

These are from Ben back when I started this project.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size
Post# 902849 , Reply# 9   10/13/2016 at 06:03 (2,742 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Thanks, Eddie!

 The o-ring in question is item 11 which is 00-067500-00031 They cost 2.77 each and are sold in a bag of 5. You can pick them up at your local Hobart Office or purchase them online from the Hobart E-Store.

The link is below.
Steve

CLICK HERE TO GO TO stevet's LINK
Post# 902961 , Reply# 10   10/13/2016 at 20:07 (2,741 days old) by Number6 (Olympia)        
very encouraging advice/info

 Thanks, Toploader and stevet!

My time in Iowa is about done until next spring, so I think I am going to have to finish the project then.

Meanwhile, I will order the o-rings. When I return next March I'll bring my dremel and grinder bits. I think I may try careful and gentle grinding of the JBWeld before I try to chip it off. Chipping seems risky to me! I sure don't want to break those irreplaceable parts! Thanks again. "I'll be back."


Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      


Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members Click Here To Sign Up.



                     

automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
 Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals 		Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy