Thread Number: 67686  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
POR15 Durability 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 904057   10/23/2016 at 22:56 (2,733 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Has anyone who has treated an outer tub, centerpost, etc. with POR15 done a follow-up disassembly to check how it holds up over time?

I did a break-down on a direct-drive unit on which I treated the centerpost and base pedestal five years ago.  I found that the POR flaked, loosened, and peels off the centerpost very easily.  Same on the base to a degree, and there's some rusting coming through on it in a few areas.

Based on what I see I'm doubtful that it'd hold up for the long-term on an outer tub, rusted areas on a porcelain basket, etc.

Maybe my technique is bad?




Post# 904062 , Reply# 1   10/24/2016 at 01:10 (2,733 days old) by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        
Prep

 I used POR-15 pm the belly pans of my VW Beetle. The first time I did it, I suffered with flaking and rust. I contacted the manufacturer and got some tips on better prep work. One major thing they stress is to make sure the surface is as clean as possible. Maybe you can try contacting them and explain what you are trying to do. They might give some insight into how to apply for your needs.

Post# 904077 , Reply# 2   10/24/2016 at 06:56 (2,733 days old) by Gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

I used it extensively on a '55 Unimatic restoration (from the dreaded Aberdeen Farm) I did about twelve years ago and no problems to report. In fact, the whole INNER tub is coated with it. Outer tub of '67 Rollermatic is ok. '66 Hotpoint ok.

Post# 904106 , Reply# 3   10/24/2016 at 11:33 (2,733 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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Hmmm... I've used POR15 on a couple of centre posts and baseplates and it seems to be holding up well. BUT in most cases the items were good and rusted; I suspect that is what POR15 adheres to best.

Post# 904107 , Reply# 4   10/24/2016 at 11:44 (2,733 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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POR-15 is great.  I've had great success using it on KM/WP belt-drive center posts and sealing up rusty tub outlets on Maytag outer tubs.  The instructions do indicate that cleaning and prepping the surface is a must, but this stuff LOVES to adhere to rust.  I have see instances where it will flake off porcelain surfaces, but that won't stop me from using it in the future.

 

Ben
Post# 904109 , Reply# 5   10/24/2016 at 11:49 (2,733 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)        

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I wonder if chemical etching or a light grit blasting would help it adhere to the Porcelain? The glass is likely just too smooth.

Is POR-15 rated for immersion or marine like applications?

Post# 904120 , Reply# 6   10/24/2016 at 13:21 (2,733 days old) by kenmore70 (New York)        

I used POR-15 about 2 years ago on the inside of a Kenmore outer TUB and so far no leaks. Prep is the key. POR makes a Metal Prep product which says you can use on shiny metal and aluminum too. It etches the surface. Check out their website, www.por15.com.... I've never used the metal prep product but maybe it will work for the areas that don't have a lot of rust. I coated the whole interior of the tub, and sanded it where it didn't have a lot of rust so the POR would have something to bite into.

Post# 904305 , Reply# 7   10/25/2016 at 20:04 (2,731 days old) by sfh074 ( )        
depends on the paint chemistry

 I have used por15 for many different applications. However I have found that por15 does not prevent rust if the steel part coated with por15 remains wet for long periods of time. (Think of water standing in the bottom of the outer washer tub or water pump impeller standing in unexpelled water) After much research, I found out why. Por15 has a solvent base like most paints and as por15 "dries", the solvent escapes thru micro-pores in the coating. Additional coats will cover "most" of these micro-pores of the previous coats ..... but not all of them. (Think of pore on top of pore) The great thing about por15 is that it grips to rust really well, but not very well to smooth surfaces, including smooth/shiny metal parts.

There is a product that the marine industry swears by and its chemistry is totally different from por15. The product is KDS Rust Seal. It does not have a solvent base and therefore does not dry, or gas off. It "cures" by the introduction of humidity and cures from the outside inward, unlike its solvent based counterpart which dries from the inside out. Since it is a curing process vs an off gassing, no pores are created and leaves a true monolithic coating.

I have used this product on the inside water jackets of acid cleaned engine blocks, both iron and aluminum, (1950's - 70's jaguar restorations) for the past 12 years. A customer Jag engine we coated at least 11 years ago came back for a water pump leak. I changed out the pump and the coating we did in that water jacket looked brand new! I tried to remove some of this coating that was under the gasket surface and scrapping would not remove it. I ended up having to use a flat file to take it off.

Over the years we have tried applying this stuff to different surfaces and found that it will bond itself to most hard surfaces. Some surfaces we have tried is glass, polished stainless steel, powder coated steel, shiny chrome, pot metal and anodized aluminum. HOWEVER, there is a trick. You must use a phosphuric acid cleaner before coating. We use por15 marine clean. Wash the part to be coated with the marine clean and then thoroughly rinse with clean water. Air dry the part and do not handle with bare hands. Immediately coat the part and allow to fully cure before returning the part back to service. If the new coating does not get scratched or worn, it will prevent any O2 from coming in contact with the part coated.

If still not convinced, buy an 8 oz can of it and some por15 marine clean. Get an old stainless steel butter knife, clean it and dip it into the KDS rust seal paint. Let it cure for 72 hours and then take a knife, sand paper or the like to it and see if you can remove this coating. You will be amazed at just how tough this stuff really is!

BTW, the marine clean can be reused. For smaller parts we pour the marine clean into a small bucket and let the parts soak. We then pour the marine clean back into its original container.

Post# 904597 , Reply# 8   10/28/2016 at 16:16 (2,728 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Thank you for the excellent tutorial incorporating the principles of physics and chemistry.

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