Thread Number: 68365  /  Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
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Post# 911053   12/13/2016 at 22:57 (2,687 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

I've had this for a couple of years, first sitting in my garage, then hauled down the basement.  I was intending to use it today but the weather stopped me.  More on that later...

 

Anyway it has not been used in decades as far as I know.  It came out of a one owner house, and the owner did not like to use the unit.  It appears to have been used a bit in the past from the wear on the interior.  Everything seems to work, I did note a small trickle of water after the valve closed,  the seal may be dried out.  It did seem to stop. The racks are in very good shape too, a plus.

 

My main question is is there a way to lube the bearings?  The motor sounds a bit noisy, a little whine.  The housing of the motor show a moderate amount of rust, though I did not see any evidence of a bad seal, no water under the machine.

 

I had intended to run the glass from my exterior lights through the machine since it has a very good flow of water, I usually use the Whirlpool in the basement but occasionally I did see some residue remaining on the glass even with the force it has. But we got close to 12" of snow the other day and it's a bit hard to get to some of the lights, have to wait a bit as it now will been in the single digits for the next few days.  Hate to decorate lights that are not sparking clean.

 

Any way have the original tag from Hobart on the machine --

 

Model 11  Stainless steel

Serial number - 377044

Motor watts - 320

Heater watts 1000

 

Inspected by ( hard to make out the sig...)  Kipner (?) Riotac (?)  no.232539





Post# 911060 , Reply# 1   12/13/2016 at 23:32 (2,687 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

Forgot to mention one issue I have to deal with -- it's a gravity drain model.  I will use it VERY infrequently I'm sure, so at this point I'm just going to use one of those black flex sump pump hoses and route the water to my floor drain. I do have an old pump I pulled out of an older GE dishwasher I might look at adapting, not sure if it's worth the trouble.


Post# 911062 , Reply# 2   12/13/2016 at 23:52 (2,687 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Sealed and lubricated for life! But how many lives?

But then again, that machine is probably ready to collect Social Security. The motors came with sealed ball bearings but the grease is probably all dried out by now.
They can be replaced as they were standard sized bearings available at any good bearing supplier in your area. Just don't skimp on getting the very best bearings they have.You may want to ask for sealed with rubber bearings as water can work its way down through the metal sealed ones.

Be forewarned, the shaft seals are non existent for all intents and purposes so if you do try to remove the bearings, be super, super careful with the seal.

Since the motor has to drop out of the tank, you will have to disassemble all the pump components inside the tank down to the seal. You will see how it looks in any of the parts diagrams for your model.

Start by disconnecting the drain hoses and plumbing to the house drain if it is a gravity drain or disconnect the hoses from the drain pump so the motor is free. Then unscrew the bolts in the tank almost all the way so that the motor would be hanging from them and try rocking it back and forth to break it free from the tank. Once free, put something under it to support it and remove all the screws and pull the motor out. You will likely have to cut yourself a new set of gaskets because they are not available either.

(DON'T remove any of the metal plates inside the tank yet. They are probably stuck well to the tank and once you reinstall the motor, they will continue to maintain their sealing properties. The same goes for the sharp galvanized shield on the bottom of the tank. You may have to make a new one for the top of the motor.)

Once out of the machine, you will see a small pin that is holding the ceramic part of the seal in place. Gently push down on the ceramic and pull or drive out the pin and the ceramic will come off the motor shaft. Once off, the actual lower seal does not need to be touched and can stay in the top housing of the motor.

Remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the motor and that will allow the motor to be broken down into 4 parts. The lower bearing housing, the stator, the rotor which will probably be stuck in the upper pump housing which is the fourth part.

You may have to lightly tap on the bottom to get it separated and then with a rubber mallet, tap the top of the rotor and it should come out of the top of the housing along with its bearing. Sometimes, the lower bearing comes off with the housing but it will most likely sty on the rotor too. There will be w round wavy spring in the bottom housing that you need to reinstall in the same orientation as it was originally installed. I used to put a bit of good bearing grease in that small housing just to make the bearing slide in easier.

Use a small puller on the bearings to remove them and then install the new ones in their place. Chances are that your machine has a starting relay on it so your rotor will not have a centrifugal switch nor will the bottom housing have a stationary start switch so you won't have to contend with that. You may be able to take the rotor to the bearing shop and have them remove and install the new bearings for you.

If you happen to have the motor with the drain pump attached to the bottom of the motor, no big deal.. except that you will then have to remove the drain valve and the pump as one assembly. Because at its age, if you try to separate them, you will surely break a non available part and then be forced to jury rig something that will work as a drain pump, but it also depends on the vintage of your machine.

Put the motor back together and make your gaskets if needed and reinstall the pump back into the machine and reassemble the wash pump parts in the tank and it should go back to working just fine.

Now here is one really good hint on how to get the motor back in place without killing yourself. When you go for the bearings, take one of the motor mounting screws with you and stop at Lowes or Home Depot and buy a piece of All-Thread the same pitch and size as that screw. Cut 3 or 4 pieces of the all- thread maybe 2-3 inches long and thread one end into the top of the motor housing. They will become pilot bolts to align the motor with the tank and you may be able to pull up and hold the motor in place while you thread the other bolts in. Another trick is to get 2 pieces of all thread and use pieces long enough to let you thread it into the housing while the motor rests on the floor and then you can lift the motor right into place with one hand and secure the other bolts with the other hand.

Back in my day.. We repaired so many of the UM series machines which were basically KD11 style machines with the shorter all stainless tanks and all metal wash pumps. But it was no big deal to rebuild the pumps if the bearings went bad due to bad seals. It is not as hard as it may seem at first. But a small whine is nothing compared to the noise they can make when the bearings dry put and the grease is replaced with rust!

I hope this helps.
Steve




Post# 911064 , Reply# 3   12/13/2016 at 23:57 (2,687 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Missed your additional comment!

While writing my dissertation! Gravity drain makes it easier. You don't have to remove the drain valve. Drop it down with the motor.

Probably the only way to adapt the drain pump is to have the ge pump run with the dishwasher motor and when the cycle ends, so will the drain pump. But others have adapter these machines and can probably give you more help on that project.


Post# 911115 , Reply# 4   12/14/2016 at 11:35 (2,686 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

Wow!  Thanks!  That is a crash course in repairing this machine.  Not sure I will do it, as long as it's not making too much noise or causing problems.  I suspect that running it a few times will either loosen up the lube or end the motor bearings.   I saved your info in case I ever get to doing that.

 

It will join an old Whirlpool in my basement and see rare infrequent use, more as a collector's item than anything else.  I don't know, maybe an occasional cycle may be better than none.  Not sure.


Post# 911117 , Reply# 5   12/14/2016 at 11:36 (2,686 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

toploader55's profile picture
Steve...

I wish you could be a bit more detailed in your replies... LOL ; )


Post# 911137 , Reply# 6   12/14/2016 at 14:01 (2,686 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Thanks, Eddie!

Sometimes, I find myself at a loss for words.


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