Thread Number: 68522
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag DE806 Thanks |
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Post# 912665 , Reply# 1   12/26/2016 at 15:08 (2,649 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 912685 , Reply# 2   12/26/2016 at 19:54 (2,649 days old) by duke ()   |   | |
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Anybody heading south near S.C. for vacation in 2017?? How about pack up that A806 preferably blue strip or maybe a A702 .We can pay for that trouble & gasoline.Just think about it--Duke |
Post# 912707 , Reply# 3   12/27/2016 at 06:09 (2,649 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 912745 , Reply# 4   12/27/2016 at 13:33 (2,648 days old) by Frigidaireguy (Wiston-Salem, NC)   |   | |
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That is what this club is all about being able to help each other with not only repairs, etc. but helping each other find matching machines. I have let several go because someone had the matching dryer or washer. Bob |
Post# 912766 , Reply# 6   12/27/2016 at 16:44 (2,648 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 912770 , Reply# 7   12/27/2016 at 17:03 (2,648 days old) by duke ()   |   | |
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How peculiar it is to own a classic Maytag A806 and never even checking to see if it works.You must be very rich.Thank you |
Post# 912807 , Reply# 11   12/28/2016 at 01:19 (2,648 days old) by lowefficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Post# 912828 , Reply# 12   12/28/2016 at 06:45 (2,648 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Travis has it right. Today, it's about 25 degrees outside. Kinda tough hooking up a washer and checking it out. A washer that I'm not going to do anything with.
No, not rich, I have a deal worked out with an appliance store to get the trade ins they don't want. I get older Maytag's offered all the time. The nicer ones, like 806's, or ones in minty condition, go into a pole barn, along with probably a dozen or so round top refrigerators, some BD Whirlpools, a Servel gas fridge, and a few other treasures I've rounded up over the years. Travis, still have the pink Maytag's out there.
Dave, I'm still looking for a gold backed 806 for ya. They are still out there, just haven't located one yet. |
Post# 915567 , Reply# 14   1/13/2017 at 21:01 (2,631 days old) by duke ()   |   | |
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Notice the different circuit boards they used inside the 3-3049 black box.It's as if they are just as confused as I while trying to figure dry times.
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Post# 915568 , Reply# 15   1/13/2017 at 21:09 (2,631 days old) by duke ()   |   | |
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Soldering the connections removes the doubt ,Therefore you can move on to your next guess.I will finish with what I feel are the most aggravating issues of de806 inconsistant drying with some new pictures.
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Post# 915583 , Reply# 16   1/14/2017 at 01:30 (2,631 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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Duke,
I don't know if anyone told you or not, but I found that replacing the the cool down thermostat (pt. # 3-3037 or pt # off my dryer is 3-03037-2. A red wire with a black stripe went to one pole and a yellow wire with a green stripe went to the other. I replaced it with a Supco AT021 adjustable thermostat, range 90-130 close on rise. It's been awhile since I did it but as I recall I set the stat to 100 degrees. The bell rings about 10 minutes before shut down, so unfortunately you have to look at the clock and and add about 10 minutes, more or less, depending on load. Then get the clothes out. You can adjust the cool down period with the new stat. Another brand of stat would probably work just as well, like Gemline or Robert Shaw. I've found it makes all the differents in the world in HOH drying. Cool, less wrinkled clothes, much better lint collection for some reason (maybe less static cling?). And shorter vent runs always seem to help. The vent run on my dryer was very short and a friend of mine commented that short run shouldn't need to be cleaned much. I checked it and it was pretty dirty. A quick run thru with the LintEater about once a year keeps things working pretty well. Hope this helps someone and I haven't repeated myself. B. |
Post# 915709 , Reply# 19   1/14/2017 at 21:40 (2,630 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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That's exactly right, Duke. And if you get the adjustable cool down stat you can change the cool down time to your benefit. I don't know why Maytag did it that way. Maybe something to do with the brush, the charging and discharging cap? It would be better to ring when it's done.
Mark did something cool a few years back. He put a blue neon behind the gas flame logo and hooked it onto the gas valve voltage, placed it behind the blue flame logo and that way he knew when the burner was on. When I get my machine out again I'm going to hook a yellow 220 neon into the element circuit and place it behind the Maytag logo. Then I will know when the element is cycling. |
Post# 915711 , Reply# 20   1/14/2017 at 22:16 (2,630 days old) by duke ()   |   | |
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Excellent idea,piggyback off the load side of the running stat. |
Post# 915737 , Reply# 22   1/15/2017 at 03:00 (2,630 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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I know it's late and you're probably not up anymore but a warning on those plastic brush holders that are screwed to that drum with that bolt. It's usually best to leave them there. They have a tendency to break. Just take a little screwdriver, loosen the screw on top of the copper plate with the wire, hold your finger over the hole where the spring and wire are, move the copper plate until the spring starts to pop out and be ready to grab it. It's so tiny and will fly away and you'll never find it. Then you can polish up the copper plate and put it back together.
I know the service techs get tired of hearing me talk about all the little OCD things I do when working on these machines and that no one has time to do that in the field, but it's fun to me to make it all look new again.
While the brush is out you can get some good metal polish out (like Flitz or Mothers Mag and shine up that copper band, get a small paint brush, compressed air and blow and brush the lint off that felt under the copper band. Just don't get it wet. It will ground it out to the housing and it won't work anymore.
I'm sure you've already pulled the drum, cleaned the blower, shaft, spider, wick and all that stuff. That's a must. When you put the cabinet back on, be sure to have it on a sturdy level floor, probably take the rubber feet off, oil the legs, level the machine up all the way around, hook up door switch and route wires, put in side screws and start to check for cabinet alignment. With and w/o the back on. Sometimes pulling on the cabinet corners while watching screw hole alignment on back cover and checking to see if the front hole opening is even all the way around will make things go better in the end. The hole alignment on the front of mine is pretty good and I can see small fibers from the front seal sticking out from around the perimeter where the hole in the cabinet meets the drum. If you want to protect your cabinet bottom, you can lay down and old quilt or blanket so the bottom won't get scratched. There goes my OCD again. Used to be called perfectionist.
I wouldn't change the drum centering unless I had to. Usually cabinet alignment can fix that problem. Then manual says: 1. With the dryer level and the back panel on, checkto see where the drum is hitting or is too close to the shroud. 2. Remove back panel. 3. Slightly loosen three bolts holding the housing to the housing supports. 4. Move drum in proper directon to corect misalignment. Center drum so the space on each side is equal and the drum is slightly closer to the shroud on the bottom than on the top. 5. Retighten three bolts holding housing. 6. Reinstall back panel. 7. Recheck drum centering. If further adjustment is necessary, repeat above steps. Ugh. Wouldn't want to do it, but would if had to. Cabinet alignment and leveling is so much easier. If that didn't work, then I might consider housing centering.
In photo 2: There's your cool down stat.
Once I messed up one of those little brushes some how; broke it I think. So I went to Ace hardware, got the smallest brush I could find with no wire embedded in it, a short strip of black emery paper and went to work. Laid the emery paper down on a flat surface, laid the brush on it, slid it back and forth a few times while checking often to see if it would fit in the holder. Once I got the outside dimensions right, I checked it for proper length so the spring would fit down inside. Then I reassembled it. Worked perfect. Have to check often. The carbon files off quickly and makes a terrible mess. Be ready for that if you ever have to do it. You can take a damp towel and clean up all the black.
Photo 3. Yeah. Those old parts can be cleaned up and used again as long as they aren't broken.
If you really want to get into it, you can order the Maytag Halo-o-Heat dryer service manual off of Automatic Ephemera.
Looking forward to seeing and hearing more. Let us know how you're getting along. |
Post# 916108 , Reply# 24   1/17/2017 at 19:09 (2,627 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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Post# 916112 , Reply# 26   1/17/2017 at 19:45 (2,627 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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Post# 916113 , Reply# 27   1/17/2017 at 19:50 (2,627 days old) by duke ()   |   | |
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No,She is powered up ,buckled up, running and vented. |
Post# 916115 , Reply# 28   1/17/2017 at 19:56 (2,627 days old) by duke ()   |   | |
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This sound is in the blower area |
Post# 916127 , Reply# 29   1/17/2017 at 21:34 (2,627 days old) by Lowefficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Post# 916266 , Reply# 30   1/18/2017 at 18:23 (2,626 days old) by duke ()   |   | |
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Lowefficiency, Update your email on your profile page & We'll talk. |
Post# 916331 , Reply# 32   1/19/2017 at 07:20 (2,625 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Blower bearings were a common problem after a lot of use, I would also lubricate the main tub bearings, idler and motor bearings on a dryer this old if it is to get much use.
Good trick about cleaning the copper slip ring, I have also been soldering the terminals on the little circuit board for over 20 years in the field to get these finicky dryers working properly. I just solder the dryer harness directly onto the board, no need to add extra wire or another connection in the harness. |