Thread Number: 69011  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Frigidaire WC lid switch ?
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Post# 917985   1/28/2017 at 13:58 (2,636 days old) by cander (Illinois)        

I joined this forum a while back to see others who had machines similar to mine and enjoyed seeing them. When I thought of replacing it several years ago, I posted on another board asking for suggestions of a machine that would a good choice. I had a couple responses that said I wouldn't be as happy with the new models and even an offer to purchase my set. After that, I decided to keep then and get more use out of them and have been happy with the decision as friends have continued to replace their newer models every 5-10 yrs :) The only real investment I've had to make in the set was a replacement lint filter for the washer and a heating element for the dryer.

My beloved GM/Frigidaire model WC purchased 7/3/76 (found the original receipt when looking for the manuals that came with it) stopped working a couple days ago. Was in the middle of washing a load and it would not spin (or fill before a spin cycle). It would agitate fine.
After checking the belt, which appeared to still be in good condition, it was deemed to be the lid switch that was not 'getting contact' from the little pin in the lid hinge. (By inserting a small screwdriver into the hole, it would start to spin)
Does anyone have a part number for this piece or is it even possible to find a replacement. I have done a search for this part number and have not been able to find this info. (Maybe I don't have the correct name for it) Or is this a part that can be 'fixed'? Was worried it might be difficult and the components might have become more 'fragile' with age

Also, the 'bed of nails' lint filter has long since been unable to stay in place because of a piece of plastic that has broken from the rail that it fits on. Does anyone have a 'fix' for this?. Would love to not have as much lint on the clothes when they come out of a wash.

Thanks for any help with this. I do enjoy this site.





Post# 918030 , Reply# 1   1/28/2017 at 21:49 (2,636 days old) by TrainGuy (Key West, FL)        
Please Drop Me An eMail

trainguy's profile picture

I still have plenty of NOS bed of nails filters. Keep in mind that while your machine has one with blue letters, the replacements do not. I should still have a few NOS lid switches. I'm up in PA at the moment but will check when I get back home.



Post# 918074 , Reply# 2   1/29/2017 at 08:55 (2,636 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Bad Lid Switch On A FD 1-18 Washer

combo52's profile picture

If there are no young curious people in your house hold it is easy to completely bypass the lid switch on these washers, all you have to do is open the console and you will find two black wires going through a separate connector through the washer top, just cut and connect these wires together.

 

The only curious thing about your problem is on a 1-18 the lid SW cuts off all power so I don't believe it could be a bad lid SW if it still agitates.

 

The lint filter on these machines while it does catch some lint will not make a noticeable difference that you can see on the laundry you take out of the washer. FD 1-18s because of their spin-drain tend to slosh a lot of water over the wash basket as they start draining and this can deposit a lot of lint on the clean clothing even to the point of leaving streaks on dark colored items. You can minimize this by using lower water levels on loads where linting can be a problem. Also if you bypass the lid switch you could just hold the edge of the wash basket when the washer starts the final spin and let the first 6" of water drain before you let the basket start spinning, I do this on my 1-18 at times.

 

 


Post# 918116 , Reply# 3   1/29/2017 at 15:22 (2,635 days old) by cander (Illinois)        

Thanks for the responses
TrainGuy--Is there some way I can better secure that lint filter. The problem was part of the rail that the filter slides on seems to have broken off and so the filter doesn't stay in place--flies out during a spin causing pieces on the filter to break off. Don't ask me how a piece that out of the way could have broken but it did :) If the washer is behaving as I explain below would a new lid switch help?

Combo52--Are the wires you're mentioning to bypass the lid switch ones that lead from the switch back to the console (Not being well versed in washer repairs, is the console where the water level dial, speed selector, washing program dials are connected?? )
As long as I can remember (and the memory's not as good as it used to be :) )I have always been able to have the lid open during the fill and washing agitation. Of course lid had to be closed for spin and rinse fill, but I could open lid during rinse agitation to add rinse aids.

So, perhaps it is not the switch itself that is bad, but the little pin on lid hinge just isn't pushing against it enough. (I could get it to spin if I pushed on the switch through the hole with a small screwdriver.
Does this switch have a spring in it that could have become weak and is no longer pushing it out to help it make contact with the lid pin? Would leaving the lid closed when not is use have been making that little pin keep pushing on the switch and causing it to stay more depressed? (Did that make any sense? :)

I do know about the lint-y streaks on the clothes when you take them out that you mentioned. I just assumed that was because I had no lint filter in place. I will try your suggestion, since I like to hang my clothes to dry I don't want to rely on the dryer to pick up that lint

Look forward to hearing your ideas.




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