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Thread Number: 69620
/ Tag: Vintage Dryers
Maytag DG808 Dryer |
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| Post# 925206 3/5/2017 at 21:51 (2,602 days old) by Tygerlondon (Saint Joseph) | ||
Well, I'm on a roll today.
Since I need to go ahead and order a lid switch for my beloved 806 washer (update: the washer will work, but I have to manually hit the switch a few times and keep it depressed for the washer to finish an entire cycle), the dryer, also beloved, decided it couldn't be left out. Keep in mind here that I'm a novice--don't make (too much) fun of me or my lack of appropriate lingo. Normally my dryer will start chiming when clothes are dry to let you know it is time to fetch them. After several minutes of chiming the dryer will shut off. Well, the chime stopped dinging and with this the dryer runs until one opens the door. Is this a case of just replacing the chime? A solenoid? Any advice here is appreciated. | ||
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Post# 925290 , Reply# 1 3/6/2017 at 12:23 (2,601 days old) by rp2813  (Sannazay) |
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 If your dryer has the same type of dial as an 806, there's no visible clue that the timer might have quit -- and I use the term "timer" loosely because the controls are electronic. I think there's a common cause for the failure you're describing. If you use the "Super Searchalator" at top right on the forum index page, you might be able to find past threads that discuss this issue and how to resolve it. | ||
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Post# 925302 , Reply# 2 3/6/2017 at 13:37 (2,601 days old) by Frigidaireguy (Wiston-Salem, NC) |
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I had a center Dial DG806 and the same thing happened to me. There is a little "paperclip" looking part that comes loose and has to be put back in place. Don't know if that is your problem but it would be worth checking out. Others here would know better than I. Bob | ||
| Post# 925317 , Reply# 3 3/6/2017 at 14:54 (2,601 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Post# 925347 , Reply# 4 3/6/2017 at 18:14 (2,601 days old) by super32 (Blackstone Massachusetts) |
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The paperclip thingy that Frigidaireguy was referring to should apply to this model also. The common issue wasnt exactly that the paperclip thing was broken, but rather the piece that it pulled when the bell would go off. In the parts look up it was called a "push to start switch". However, Tygerlondon (original poster) stated it no longer would ding. In the scenario i describe above, the dryer would ding but never shut off. Its possible the solenoid has failed, but its also possible something has gone wrong with the electronic control that is not sensing that the clothes are dry.
Off the top of my head (its been awhile) the other question i have is, are the clothes dry and is the dryer still cycling the heat on/off? Its been many years since have worked on one of these. I believe this electronic design lasted thru the "12 line" and was replaced by a different design in the 1990 line. | ||
| Post# 925353 , Reply# 5 3/6/2017 at 18:41 (2,601 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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There seems to be some missing information here. If the dryer is chiming multiple times, that would indicate that you are using the permanent press setting all of the time. Usually the normal cycle, with one ding, is sufficient to dry a load of clothes. Has the dryer been serviced lately?
If the dryer doesn't ding, that could mean the linkage from the solenoid to the bell striker has come off or broke, the solenoid has quit energizing, the switch is broken, the electronic control is broken or the baffle bars are dirty which means the dryer can't detecting whether or not the clothes are dry, etc., etc. Provide more information please. Are the clothes dry and hot when you come to take them out without the bell telling you to do so? Is the duct work clogged with lint? | ||
| Post# 925360 , Reply# 6 3/6/2017 at 19:45 (2,601 days old) by Tygerlondon (Saint Joseph) | ||
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Hi, guys. Thanks. The duct work is short--the dryer is on an exterior wall--and is not clogged.
The clothes come out nice, dry, and toasty warm. The dryer "clicks" once, even on perm press, loudly when the load is done--like the chime is trying to work. However, the dryer does not stop running, with heat still, until the door is physically open. The dryer hasn't been serviced lately. Any pointers on routine service that I can provide would be welcome. I tried to get my normal service guy to come service both my washer and dryer once a upon a time and he maintains they aren't worth his time. Beekeyknee--I'm in Saint Joseph. If you are a collector,just an FYI, C&M Appliance here gets mid-century machines as haul-aways sometimes that I have seen on the few times I have been there, and I would bet they trash/scrap most of them. | ||
| Post# 925363 , Reply# 7 3/6/2017 at 20:44 (2,601 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Of course he says they aren't worth his time. He'd say the same thing to the Queen. You gotta find an old fella that's familiar with machines of that age and gives a damn. These kids don't understand anything without a computer board in it. Anyone who comes into your home and talks to you like that should be shown the door and tell them not to let it hit them on their ass on the way out.
Sounds like the linkage has come off if you can hear it clicking. That would cause the dryer to continue to run and heat (bake your clothes). I can tell you more later or someone else may come along and give you advise. I have a project going on upstairs. I'll check back later to see how you're getting along. | ||
| Post# 925370 , Reply# 8 3/6/2017 at 21:19 (2,601 days old) by Tygerlondon (Saint Joseph) | ||
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Thanks for the info, Beekeyknee.
My appliance man is actually in his mid-fifties (and normally very sweet and accommodating; I was surprised when he said this.) I'm the "kid" in the equation: 28 when I got the machines and 33 now. ;) And, what I'be learned about the machines, I've learned by conversation or search here. I won't get back to the dryer until Friday--because of work--so there's no rush, if you'd be so generous to fill me in when you get a good moment. | ||
| Post# 925424 , Reply# 10 3/7/2017 at 04:44 (2,600 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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| Post# 925480 , Reply# 11 3/7/2017 at 12:07 (2,600 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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So your washer and dryer both decided to stop working at the same time? I saw your other post. Can you explain or has the dryer been doing this all along and you decided to address both problems at the same time?
You're the kid in the equation and your favorite brand is "Missouri"? Who's Rosetta? This sounds kinda screwed up to me. Explain, and make it good or I'm done. This post was last edited 03/07/2017 at 12:28 | ||
| Post# 926223 , Reply# 12 3/11/2017 at 11:56 (2,596 days old) by Tygerlondon (Saint Joseph) | ||
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Hi, guys. To answer some above questions:
I don't insist on working on anything by email. :) I do try to gleen as much information as I can about the problem/symptoms from here as possible. The members here have a great knowledge set and a respect for these machines that I respect. (When I first moved into my old-fixer-upper house--the machines came with it--you guys helped me replace the igniter on my dryer asap so I could start washing and drying everything up from the move and I have been super appreciative ever since) If I can fix it--which has been all of my minor issues in the past--, great, if not, I have additional information that I can give to my appliance guy if it gets that far. I don't use dryer sheets. My dryer has been doing this about a month or so. (I put it in a separate thread because I thought it was the polite thing to do) It just didn't require an immediate fix on the double, as I normally don't leave the house when I do laundry anyhow. So, when the issue with my washer arose, and I needed to order a part, I thought if I needed an additional part for the dryer I just go ahead and grab them both together. Nothing sneaky--though I see how my wording could have confused people. I meant I was on a roll with multiple questions in one day. My profile seems to be an auto-fill mistake of some sort. Are there lots of trolls here looking to love and repair vintage machines? I'm Rosetta. I live in Missouri. | ||
| Post# 926335 , Reply# 13 3/12/2017 at 03:30 (2,595 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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"Trolls here to love and repair vintage machines?" No, I don't believe so. It would be much easier not to answer your question at all. We try to help when possible, but you do admit how we might have interpreted your two threads made at nearly the same time to be a bit "confusing". It was more than confusing, it seemed sketchy when combined with the strange answers in your profile.
You profile says a lot about you; who you are and your character. That combined with the two threads didn't create any confidence in you for us. "Auto- fill of some sort"? I seriously doubt it. Even if it did, you weren't paying attention while filling out your profile. And your profile still hasn't been corrected. This indicates to us that you don't really care about this forum or the people on it, are here for free information and will then be gone when you get what you need. Fill out your profile properly and we can proceed. One last thing. I am not the moderator for this forum, but I think he might agree with me in this particular circumstance. Thank you. This post was last edited 03/12/2017 at 03:52 | ||
| Post# 926531 , Reply# 14 3/13/2017 at 08:59 (2,594 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Hi Rosetta,
I noticed you changed your profile, which is a great step. I also noticed your avatar picture changed, which appears to be, maybe you, holding a cat with a squirrel's head on your body? I think that's hilarious, if it was your intention, to drive home a point that you are not stupid and that it was a misunderstanding, which can often happen on internet forums. You managed to make a point, through subtle humor, instead of being confrontational. I love subtle humor in all its forms. It can often turn a tense situation into a peaceful and humorous one. I'll be happy to try and help you if I can. You have to understand. I have no idea about your mechanical abilities, so bear with me. Without pictures it's very hard to envision your particular circumstances. The things I can tell you are 1: Unplug the dryer. 2: Get a #2 phillips screwdriver (the most common size). It should fit snuggly in the screw with no play. 3: There are two screws on top of the control panel behind the chrome edge on the front. 4: While holding on to these screws, remove them from the top of the control panel cover. I tell you to hold on to the screws because when they come loose from the machine they could easily fall down behind the machine and you might never be able to find them again. 5: Pull the cover back, up and away from the machine and set it aside with the screws. 6: Get a good flashlight (preferable LED that's very bright) and look down inside the control panel (You may need a step ladder for this part). 7: As you face the dryer and look down inside the control panel you will see the switch directly behind the dial on the front of the dryer. To the left of that switch will be a solenoid, bell, and a little whitish/translucent piece of plastic that connects to the linkage on the solenoid. On the end of that piece of plastic will be a rivet or screw to strike the bell. Now back to the end that connects to the solenoid. That piece of plastic connects to a bracket that holds it, the solenoid and the bell. Inside of that solenoid is a slug and on the other end of the slug is a couple of metal pieces that stick out from the slug. There are two small holes drilled in those metal pieces and a pin that has been driven down into the holes. This is where the linkage is hooked to the solenoid and the other end is hooked to the switch (that thing that some people refer to as the paper clip looking thingy). When the sensor tells the dryer the clothes are done, the voltage builds up in the capacitor on the electronic control. When the charge is great enough the neon lamp in the control flashes and discharges the capacitor, causing the solenoid to jerk the slug, pull the piece of plastic and the linkage, which in turn rings the bell and the linkage pulls the wafer out of the switch, which turns off the heat in the dryer. At that point voltage is directed toward the cool-down thermostat which runs for another couple of minutes. Once the cool down thermostat is satisfied it opens and shuts power off to the motor and the dryer stops. In one of your earlier posts you mentioned you could hear a clicking sound, like the dryer wanted to ding but couldn't. You also mentioned that the dryer never stops and just keeps heating and running. Since the dryer doesn't ding anymore and never shuts off, I submit that the little plastic piece that dings the bell and yanks the wafer out of the switch is broken or the pin that is driven into those two pieces of metal at the end of the slug is broken. Anyway, the clicking you are hearing is the solenoid trying to do it's job and something is missing that is preventing it. You won't know until you look. Let me know and we'll see what we can do. In the mean time, here are some pictures for you to look at. Check reply #5 in this link. It's a perfect picture of what I'm talking about. CLICK HERE TO GO TO beekeyknee's LINK | ||
| Post# 926539 , Reply# 15 3/13/2017 at 09:31 (2,594 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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| Post# 926543 , Reply# 16 3/13/2017 at 10:05 (2,594 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Finally found it. This is similar to what the inside of your machine should look like.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO beekeyknee's LINK | ||
| Post# 926821 , Reply# 17 3/14/2017 at 14:00 (2,593 days old) by Tygerlondon (Saint Joseph) | ||
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| Post# 927664 , Reply# 18 3/18/2017 at 19:13 (2,589 days old) by Tygerlondon (Saint Joseph) | ||
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Beekeyknee, you were right on the money; it appears the plastic piece is broken. Any idea where to get one?
I'm having a hard time even figuring out what the original part number is. The PDF owner manual I've always used has been photo copied into oblivion and when it comes to the control panel parts its difficult to tell what is what. | ||
| Post# 927679 , Reply# 19 3/18/2017 at 19:31 (2,589 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Post# 927681 , Reply# 20 3/18/2017 at 19:40 (2,589 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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| Post# 927686 , Reply# 21 3/18/2017 at 19:53 (2,589 days old) by speedqueen (Metro-Detroit) | ||
You could weld the plastic, | ||
| Post# 927696 , Reply# 22 3/18/2017 at 21:49 (2,589 days old) by Tygerlondon (Saint Joseph) | ||
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| Post# 927699 , Reply# 23 3/18/2017 at 22:16 (2,589 days old) by speedqueen (Metro-Detroit) | ||
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| Post# 927702 , Reply# 24 3/18/2017 at 22:30 (2,589 days old) by speedqueen (Metro-Detroit) | ||
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It may be your lucky day.
I checked the parts pages and found this on ePay. A little expensive but try to find another in short order.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO speedqueen's LINK on eBay | ||
| Post# 927766 , Reply# 25 3/19/2017 at 14:16 (2,588 days old) by Tygerlondon (Saint Joseph) | ||
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Whoohoo! | ||
| Post# 927767 , Reply# 26 3/19/2017 at 14:19 (2,588 days old) by speedqueen (Metro-Detroit) | ||
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No problem, | ||
| Post# 927838 , Reply# 27 3/20/2017 at 00:00 (2,588 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Rosetta,
I'm glad you found your part. If you need any advice putting it in, let us know. If you can get by using the normal cycle, you won't have so much wear and tear on that part. Brian This post was last edited 03/20/2017 at 03:20 | ||
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Post# 927842 , Reply# 28 3/20/2017 at 00:26 (2,588 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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| Post# 928092 , Reply# 29 3/21/2017 at 17:06 (2,586 days old) by Tygerlondon (Saint Joseph) | ||
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Brian, thanks. Yes, I'm going to run the machine on regular from now on. And thanks for the offer of installation help--hopefully it goes smoothly. It's good to know you've restored one of these before, as I know I'll need to do some upkeep, as it gets used often (and I love it).
Rp2813, Yes! I am definitely going to try to repair that piece and keep it on hand. | ||
| Post# 928286 , Reply# 30 3/22/2017 at 16:14 (2,585 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona ) | ||
Keep us posted on your progress... | ||
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