Thread Number: 70948  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Dr Frigidiare reveals Bendix secrets
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Post# 939382   5/19/2017 at 14:51 (2,505 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        

jetcone's profile picture
I've had a nagging problem for years when I started working on Bendix washers . The pump never seem to open completely on drain . Today that problem is solved you'll get to see the solution . 30 years of experience my young Padawans!
My 1956 Bendix was throwing the pump every six months The Lochspring will pop out and the gland would pushback and it would leak water all over the floor .

Today I'll show you how to reinstall components properly .
We're working with aftermarket products which aren't as good as the originals but when it's 2017 and you're working on a 1956 washer you're stuck and you have to learn to adapt .
Here is the Bojack pump cover from Bojack casting . Can see the Bojack casting market its a Diamond with the circle in the center.


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Post# 939385 , Reply# 1   5/19/2017 at 14:58 (2,505 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

I thought that it was the drain valve that opened...


Post# 939390 , Reply# 2   5/19/2017 at 15:24 (2,505 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Reassembly is important

jetcone's profile picture
I was missing a few smart points in addition to the casting being Bojack and not having a deep ring groove would cause-the machine to throw a pump now and then .

Here is a step by step assembly

Note the ring that secures the gland is NOT symmetric and it has a little cut out around the ring top I was ignoring - two crucial elements to be aware. Of .


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Post# 939393 , Reply# 3   5/19/2017 at 15:27 (2,505 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Step one

jetcone's profile picture
Assemble the gland to the ring correctly - there is a matching cut back that is designed to sit INSIDE the rubber gland. Assemble these and put some lubricant on the pump shaft that will not affect the rubber gland .

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Post# 939480 , Reply# 4   5/20/2017 at 06:55 (2,504 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

frigilux's profile picture
Once again, a round of applause for the ingenuity of AW members. While I will never work on a washer, I really enjoy these educational slideshows. Thanks for the photos and description of the process, Jon. 👏👏

Post# 939487 , Reply# 5   5/20/2017 at 07:39 (2,504 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Now locking down the parts is tricky

jetcone's profile picture
You have to somehow compress the parts together in order to get the lock ring seated
Correctly - I use my bearing press as you will see
It is important to make sure the tang on the spring
Will seat in the cut out - see last picture


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Post# 939488 , Reply# 6   5/20/2017 at 07:51 (2,504 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Bendix secrets revealed

jetcone's profile picture
As the pump lever wears down over the years of use it will slide instead of rotating completely around the support pin it sits on to open the valve-- this creates slow draining .To Correct this you can use newly discovered "Jetcone methods # J-29B" and insert a cotter pin through the spring behind the lever so that the lever will no longer slide on the pin and will now rotate fully around the support pin that the lever sits
on you'll see this in the video , the pump will open to full throttle .


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Jetcone's LINK




This post was last edited 05/20/2017 at 08:21
Post# 939490 , Reply# 7   5/20/2017 at 08:30 (2,504 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

gansky1's profile picture
Excellent work Obi-Wan Drainobi!



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