Thread Number: 71368  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Kenmore 11072693430 Gear Case Oil Question and other rebuild questions. 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 944353   6/20/2017 at 09:06 (2,498 days old) by flyingethan (Oklahoma City)        

Hello everybody. It's been a while since I've posted anything here. I am going to install new bearings, WP8546455, in my center post in my Kenmore 11072693430 this coming weekend. I have the bearings, bearing puller, bearing installation tool and the various seals required.

I want to check the gear case oil level while I have the gear case/ transmission separated from the machine but I am not sure what oil to use to refill the gear case. I am thinking that 85 weight gear oil is appropriate but I would like some expert opinions on what I should use. Also, do you fill the gear case all of the way up with oil or is there a specific oil level that is preferred besides topping it off.

By the way, the bearings that I have are part of a kit. The two bearings are different sizes. Does the larger bearing go in the top and the smaller bearing in the bottom of the base/ sub structure center post or vice versa?

I almost forgot but I have one more question. The clutch has been been making noise lately. It is functioning properly but when the clutch engages to begin the spin cycle and when it disengages it's making a loud clunking sound as if the brake yoke is striking metal when is engages and releases. Since it is functioning just fine I am thinking that there is a part that should deaden that sound (maybe a plastic/ Teflon spacer or snubber or something) that has worn out or something. Any advice on what is supposed to keep the brake yoke from being so loud when it engages/ disengages?

I've included a picture from another forum user of their base for reference concerning the bearings that I am referring to.

Thank you in advance for the advice.

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Post# 944407 , Reply# 1   6/20/2017 at 19:04 (2,498 days old) by potatochips ( )        

For the centre post bearings, the smaller 3/4" bearing goes in the bottom, and the larger 1 1/8" bearing goes up top. Some of the machines were built with one upper seal, so if this is the case with yours you will have to use the shorter upper mandrel. Also, its a lot easier to install the bearings with the baseplate still installed in the cabinet.



Post# 944422 , Reply# 2   6/20/2017 at 22:23 (2,498 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Rebuilding A WP Built Belt Drive Washer

 combo52's profile picture

70-80 weight oil is fine for the gear case, as mentioned the taller bearing goes at the top, if your kit has two of the taller bearings use them.

 

If possible use two top seals even if your machine only had one originally, two oil seals will make the bearing last TWICE as long, when WP started using two top seals around 1975 bearing failures became almost unheard of, before with a single top seal it was common for the washers main bearings to be shot in 8-12 years.
Post# 944636 , Reply# 3   6/22/2017 at 08:39 (2,496 days old) by flyingethan (Oklahoma City)        

Thanks potatochips and combo52. The bearing/ seal kit that I have has two different size bearings. I wasn't sure which bearing went where. Now I know.

The kit has two top seals so I will attempt to use both of them. I am not sure the best way to get the lower of the two top seals in without damaging it since it has to go pretty far down in the center post but I'll lube it up and try and be careful when I install it.

Also, an appliance guy at my local appliance parts store told me to pack the space between the top bearing and top seal with bearing grease. He said this will absorb any vapor that is generated by the heat that is created when that tube is spinning. I have never heard that before but I think I might try it.

Post# 944638 , Reply# 4   6/22/2017 at 08:51 (2,496 days old) by flyingethan (Oklahoma City)        

Btw, anyone have a new base (substructure) and/or basket that they want to sell me? I know it's a long shot but I figured I would ask.

I had my centerpost repaired a few years by having a welder weld on a thin stainless steel tube over the old center post. I painted it with POR 15 and it is still working well and looks great but a new base (with a flawless centerpost) would be awesome. Heck, with a new base this washer will last another forty years.

My basket had some rust around one of the two holes at the base. I sanded/ ground most of the rust away and coated it with POR 15. It still looks pretty good but a new basket with no rust would be even better.



Post# 944933 , Reply# 5   6/23/2017 at 21:16 (2,495 days old) by flyingethan (Oklahoma City)        

Here's an update.

Pic #1. This is what totally shot bearings look like. Look how pretty the new bearings and seals are.

Pic #2. New basket drive versus old basket drive.

Pic #3. One dirty, greasy transmission. Tomorrow it shall be cleaned.

Pic #4. This is what a base looks like after it has had POR15 applied to it. The POR15 was applied about two years ago. All of that grime will be cleaned off of the inside of the cabinet, and other areas, tomorrow. I had water leaking down through the centerpost/ basket drive/ spin tube so it flung that greasy water all over everything. Hence the need for me replace the bearings and seals.

Pic #5. This is my rebuilt center post. I applied POR15 to it about 2 years ago. Looks good don't it.

I will install the new bearing and seals tomorrow and install the gearcase after I have cleaned everything up.

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